window question

[vojacek]

i will  have a 48wx36h window in my kitchen, what should  the rough opening measure? do i need to actually pick out window and read the specs? or is there a standard? we're wanting to put windows in later, but need to make room for them in the framing.

[Amanda_931]

If you're scrounging or buying from the boneyards at three different window places, it probably "all depends."

If you're buying from one source, the information will be readily  available.

(don't know if other parts of the country call the back rooms with windows that weren't picked up, etc. boneyards, but the local people don't blink when I go in and ask about them)

[glenn kangiser]

I have a 48" x 36" here that measures 47 1/2 x 35 1/2 so fits the actual opening leaving room to put a wood or sheetrock trim around the window frame.

[John in NYC]

It is always best to check with the window manufacturer. Many vinyl and metal frame windows will have as the rough opening the actual catalog size of the window. Wood windows will have a different RO size that the catalog size.

If you have a window without any information, add 1/4" on the bottom and 1/2" at the top. This is the space you shim the window into. This should be plenty of room to true up the window in your opening.

[OlJarhead]

I've decided to post here (hope that's ok in an old thread) becuase I was framing my walls before buying windows.

I checked the windows I wanted and they were all 1/2" under the catalog size (so for my 48x48 it's really 47 1/2 by 47 1/2) but then bought a framing book that scared me as it said to frame them 2" over that.  Yikes!

It's been a long time since I framed anything and in my worry (it's a personality flaw) I began searching.

In the end I think it's fine to frame the windows to the dimensions you want as long as you are willing to buy windows that are 1/2 under the actual called for size.

Am I wrong?

[MountainDon]

If everything is built square, plumb and level it's perfect to have the rough opening 1/2 inch wider and 1/2 inch taller than the actual measurement of the part that slips into that opening. That gives you enough room to adjust for slight variances in plumbness and levelness. Larger clearances will simply be more spaces that need to be shimmed and stuffed with insulation, or oamed, and could even be a problem for nailing the fins.

[OlJarhead]

If everything is built square, plumb and level it's perfect to have the rough opening 1/2 inch wider and 1/2 inch taller than the actual measurement of the part that slips into that opening. That gives you enough room to adjust for slight variances in plumbness and levelness. Larger clearances will simply be more spaces that need to be shimmed and stuffed with insulation, or oamed, and could even be a problem for nailing the fins.

Thanks Don!