10' Walls

Started by georgevacabin, September 22, 2007, 07:40:43 PM

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georgevacabin

And shaken not stirred ;D!  Thanks MD!!!

georgevacabin

Hello All,

I want to start framing walls this weekend.  After reviewing the plans and the recommended framing book one thing is still unclear.  I'm building a 14x24.  If I'm using 10ft lumber for my top & bottom plates, how do I span the 14 (or 24) feet?  How do you span the breaks?  All of the instructions/images that I've come across show a solid wall plate.   ???

Hope the question makes sense.  Basic I know.  Any help (and visuals!) would be greatly appreciated!


MountainDon

You have to order special one piece plates. The 24 foot ones will be expensive and hard to transport.

;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

You "join" the the bottom plate pieces under a stud.



Ditto for the top plates, only over a stud.

The above illustration shows building in two sections, raising separately and nailing the "joiner" stud into the wall when vertical. You can assemble the 14 foot ends flat on the deck and raise it as a unit if you have helpers.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

considerations

Quote from: MountainDon on September 25, 2007, 12:26:10 AM

Depending on how you plan to finish the interior walls you could also add a jack stud under the ledger to assist. ?? :-
Glenn, good "round" numbers.   :)

Glenn, what were you refering to when you said "depending on how you plan to finish the interior walls..."
in conjunction with using jack studs?

MountainDon

That was me...

What was I alluding to? Hmmm. Well adding jack studs under the ledger would increase the wall thickness, which may not have been desired. That have been the reason to go with 2x4 studs and not 2x6 in the first place.  ??? If I had some other thought it escapes my brain at present.  :-[  d*

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


considerations

So sorry, MountainDon....hope that didn't rise to the level of name calling!

My question, in part comes from a series of pics on this site. 

In them, I saw  2 x 6 studs with joists attached by doubling the stud, almost.  The two studs were side by side, but one was short.   

Each end of the loft joists rested on the top of that "short stud".  So, nothing stuck out into the room, there were no joist hangers, no ledger board, and the "jack stud"(?) was on the side of the real stud, and gave the loft joist support all the way from the floor. 

Golly, I hope that made sense. 

Anyway, it looked like a potential option to me, as long as it doesn't foul up the wall finishing.   

Since they were just pics, I'm not certain how the joists were attached to the stud(s).

MountainDon

Your word picture is understandable. The main thing I don't like about that method is it places another stud in the wall in place of insulation. Solid wood is not as good of an insulator as fiberglass and other insulation.

2X6 studs with a let in ledger still makes a lot of sense.

But those are simply my opinions, my 'druthers.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

considerations

I always appreciate the "opinions" on this forum.  There are lots of experienced (OJT or just "hard knocks") opinions here.  When one knows almost nothing about building (like me), the reasoning behind a particular technique is of great value.  The plans have already paid for themselves, and the the foundation pads are still in my truck.

georgevacabin

AAAAAAHHHHHHHAAAAAA!  Makes sense.  Thanks MD.  Ever on the case!   ;D


georgevacabin

p.s. - I followed the advice of one of the many posters on the forum and today picked up a $320 custom double hung window for $90 in the clearance section at HD!  Thanks everyone for being such a great resource!

glenn kangiser

Great deal on the window, George.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

John_M

Wouldn't it be great if we could get a friend to order a whole bunch of custom windows and then not need them and then we just happen to walk by as they are marking them down and say....

        "...hey, those would be perfect for my cabin!!"    [hungry]
...life is short...enjoy the ride!!

MountainDon

Would be nice. The problem with that is that HD, Lowe's and anywhere else I've ordered a special size/material/finish/whatever window/door require a deposit on the special order. Non refundable unless they make an error on the order.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

georgevacabin

Hello All,

Glad to see the gang's still here!   ;D  Hope everyone is enjoying the final throws of Summer. 

Gearing up to start working again.  Barring a change in work schedule, I will get some time in next month.

So here is the first of many questions (I'll be more organized as I get closer to the date . . . promise  ::) ).  In this thread we chatted about bracing the loft.  I ran across the following - http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=4394.0 - which looks pretty sturdy to me.  It also looks like something I could do  :P.  What are your thoughts about using this for the 14x24 loft?

Thanks so much!  I'll be checking in.

p.s. Considerations is my hero!  ;D


georgevacabin

Any thoughts here?  ???  Thanks!

glenn kangiser

No reason that wouldn't work, George.  We'll be watching as you progress.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

John Raabe

#41
Don is right. There are no published shear tables for lag screws.

http://www.portlandbolt.com/faqs/bolt-shear-strength-considerations

There are published numbers for Ledgerlok deck srews (self-tapping)

Min single shear loads in h/f or higher 2x lumber (such as ledger board)

ledgerlok deck screw = 190 lbs See at www.fastenmaster.com

I do have a note in my own files that a 1/2" lag can support 470 lbs in single shear which would seem to compare about right to the much skinnier Ledgerlok screw above. But, I have no source to point to for that number.

If you do use lags use large washers as well and cinch them tight.

Notched-in ledgers get away from all this uncertainty by directly bearing on the studs.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

georgevacabin

Awesome.  Thanks John!

glenn kangiser

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

John Raabe

Great find Glenn!  [cool]

I copied that into my files. I think that is better information than I had.

I guess there is something published and you found it!!
None of us are as smart as all of us.


glenn kangiser

I like the challenge-- and have developed pretty good search skills over the years.  I'll copy it over to the reference -free stuff section.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.