Victoria gluelam ridge beam

[CREATIVE1]

I am getting some help with my plans, and the architect I spoke to was concerned about support for the main beam.  He thought that it would require at least two posts that went to the first story.  I am in a 50 pound snow load area per code, even though where I'm located should not be very affected.  Any thoughts?  (FYI I'm lengthening the main wing by a couple of feet, exactly how much depends on the foundation we use.)

[jraabe]

You will want to go with your local load conditions. That is twice the standard roof loading and the ridge beams will need to be adjusted accordingly. You could go with a resized deeper beam or post under the existing beam cutting down the span as was suggested.

Of course, when you have a structural ridge beam (as opposed to trusses, collar ties or rafter ties) the lengthening of the building will change the beam span and that alone will require a redesign of the beams.

Finally, ask your engineer/architect if they are adjusting the loading for the slope reduction of the steep roof. This makes little difference in a 3:12 roof but reduces the size of the beams considerably for a 12:12 roof.

[MikeT]

As a matter of curiosity, John:  would a possible engineering solution for increasing support of the structural ridge beam include a support post that would be positioned somewhere in the middle of the run, possibly at the end of the wall across from where the kitchen area transitions into the dining area?

[jraabe]

Yes, that would be a reasonable solution. Full span beams can get pretty heafty in heavy snow country - especially as you lengthen the building .

However, put in a 6x6 post and carry it down to a footing and the spans and beam size get much more managable.

[CREATIVE1]

Thanks for the information.  A support post at the edge of the bathroom/kitchen area would work.

As for other plan changes, the reason I have been altering the plans is because a code stair is required.  I wanted to put a woodstove next to the bathroom door beside the skybridge, and move the stairs to the dining nook's front wall.  After some failed attempts, I THINK I've found some simple solutions.  (It is a cabin, after all)

1.  Increase the knee wall to about 4 feet.  Kitchen wing is deeper by 1 to 1-1/2 feet, steps work.  May need to do a small dormer over the landing, but maybe not.
2.  Make bedroom wing 14 feet wide.  This lengthens kitchen, bath, and rear loft.  Bathroom can accommodate more storage, and an island/bar would fit in the kitchen--no "u" shaped arrangement as in the original plans.
3.  Increase height of bedroom wing so that a 1/2 bath can be snugged into the corner of the back loft of the main house.  Solid wall behind pipe for woodstove.
4.  Loft in bedroom wing, which faces south, will have a light well, with the wall stepped back 3 or 4 feet.

There's more stuff, but I'll wait until I have a drawing.  It gets confusing.  But for now--what do you think?

[jraabe]

I'll be interested to see how these modifications work out.

There was a fellow on the east coast who worked with a local engineer and did a full stacked stair modification for the Victoria plan. It had a full basement. He sent me a copy of the plans they worked up. It ate up some of the kitchen but worked pretty well otherwise.

[CREATIVE1]

I'm actually trying to get a bigger kitchen with an island, a feature that is rarely found in a basic plan.  Most cabin kitchens are very small and isolated.  That's what I liked so much about Victoria's Cottage--the "flow" between the living areas.