rafter to top plate joint at end wall

Started by BigMish, March 30, 2007, 09:47:46 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

BigMish

In the 20' wide 1 1/2 story, the birds mouth joint connecting the rafter to the top plate is measured at 5 ½" on the plans. However, at the end walls, it seems to me, the joint would just be flat and not be a birds mouth, right? Also, at this joint the Simpson H10 looks like it won't work; what connector should be used here?

Thanks, Mischa

PEG688

#1
 Your graphic's  are  slipping Mish ,  ;D Is that showing two 2x6 stacked on each other??

Your right about a H10 not working on a / the gable rafter's generally the inspector doesn't demand a clip / connector on those as they are tied in with the gable end sheathing , the sheathing is the connector . If he , or you want a clip usea A35 ,

 

 

 Link :http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/ltp4-ltp5-a34-a35.html#gallery



that's about what it should look like.  

Ridge to rafter,

When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


BigMish

Thanks PEG,
I cleaned up the image a bit just to make sure I was understanding it right. Yes, by my reading of the plans the truss is built of 2 2x6s stacked on top of each other. Is that not right?

PEG688

Depends  ;D There must be gussets to tie the two together??? Never seen it done that way in 30 plus years of building , that doesn't make it wrong , BUT I think your reading something wrong on the plan . But if that what John's calling out he must have  a detail/ reason for it .

 [size=72] HEY JOHN!![/size]  ;D
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

BigMish

yes, there are gussets: 11x11 tie gussets from 1/2" plywood @ 5' o.c.


PEG688

 There ya go , so it's a truss , site built I assume . He may be using that system to make it easier for semi / unskilled folks to build , ease of packing stuff into a some what remote site , might be a hold over to John's young hippy years , that being opposed to his older hippy years  ;D.

Without plans I'm shooting from the hip , site built truss's a DIY , YMMV , lack Stamped Engineering , would have  a hard time getting thru a plan inspection check , IFFY set up , to many variables , not controlable as to materials quality , etc etc .

 But if John drew it , and you follow his design , use the same or better spec.ed lumber grade , etc , it will be a good truss.

 If he spec.ed standard and better Doug Fir , do not use the cheaper SPF , utility grade , common fir , type materials . The strength of the truss , MTL , was based on a specific garde of lumber , any lesser grade lumber will result in a weaker , strenght wise , truss.

If the gussets are 5' OC out of 1/2 "  CDX don't use 3/8" OSB 6' OC , follow the plan , most folks wanta make it cheaper , stretch the materail , use cheaper material , a 2x6 is a 2x6 , is not true in some case's , the GRADE is important in this truss type issue .  
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

BigMish

Unless I'm missing it (I've read and re-read a few times) I'm not seeing a grade specified for the 2x6s that compose the truss. John, what should they be?

John Raabe

#7
No 2 or better standard DF or SP framing lumber.

On the end walls the notch shown in the bottom 2x6 will not work as you noticed. You will cut it off on those two trusses and can then tie the two sides together with a 2x4 or 2x6 collar tie or nailer on top of the end wall plates. That will lock the truss together even tighter on the end walls and this can be spiked into the double top plate.

Yeah, PEG. This is a non-engineered site-built truss for DIY framing on the loft floor. It is made with 2x6's so as to not be hugely weighty. A 2nd 2x6 is scabbed onto the bottom after the roof is up to provide full insulation at the sloped portion of the ceiling.

Of course, an owner or builder can have the local truss company engineer and fabricate these to local loads and to the satisfaction of the inspector. I have over-designed this truss for many locations so the manufactured units may be lighter and perhaps even less expensive for some areas than building it yourself.

PS - I may not be able to be quite on top of the forum questions here for a few days. I just heard that my 90 year old father broke his hip so I may need to be taking off some time.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

youngins

"A spoonfull of sugar helps the medicine go down.."


MountainDon

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

John Raabe

Thanks,

I'll be going over to Wenatchee early in the AM and should be back here on Monday. I'll take a laptop and may be able to log on from there.

John R.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

glenn kangiser

I hope things go well or at least better, John.  We'll do what we can.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

PEG688

Have a safe trip John , we're hoping for the best. Glenn will keep us in line  ;D
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


PEG688

QuoteNow you have me scared, PEG. :o


Ya right  ;D Scared you'll go crazy with abslolute power :-/ :o
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

I never wield my whip unnecessarily.   :-/

OK -- well --- I try not to leave any marks where they will show. :o
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.