2x6 studs @ 24” o.c. for 20x30 1 ½ story cottage

[BigMish]

I apologize if this question has been asked before (as I assume it has) but I couldn't find it either browsing or searching.

I'm think of going 24" o.c. for the studs on the 20x30 1 ½ story cottage, the obvious advantages being reduced cost and increased insulation.

What are the disadvantages (obviously, a decrees in the structural integrity of the structure but I live in upstate NY, little to fear from wind or earth quakes)? Would any resulting changes to the plans be necessary?

Thanks, M

[John_M]

In my opinion, the cost reduction is not that great, considering the overall cost of the structure.  Insulation wise, you gain insulation through thickness (2x4 walls versus 2x6 walls) not neccessarily stud spacing.  I tend to overbuild and make it stronger though.

I built my cabin in the Southern Tier of Western New York.  http://ourlittlecabin.blogspot.com/

I think 16" oc just makes an overall stronger structure.  What are we talking about here though...an extra 20 or 30 2 x 6's?  That is about $150 or so?

[BigMish]

Yea the cost isn't too great in terms of money but in terms of time it's somewhat significant. The insulation w/ 24 o.c. is a bit better because the R vlaue of insulation is higher than wood.

[MountainDon]

Benefit: - better insulation not only from the thicker insulation , 2x6 over 2x4, but removing studs increases the overall insulation rating of the wall. This is because the solid wood (1.5" wide) has a much lower R-value.  
          - cost savings is not all that great. The few dollars saved on studs will be buried in the overall cost of the project

Disadvantage: Some have reported a wavy effect in the drywall because of less support.   :-/

If you are interested in getting the best insulation value in your wall, there's more on that here
http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1169525534/0

[jraabe]

Advantage: There is better insulation value to 24" o/c studs since there is less R-5 wood and more R-21 insulation.

Disadvantage: You should go up 1/8" in the drywall (from 1/2" to 5/8").

The next step after studs at 24" is OVE or optimum value engineering, sometimes called "advanced framing". This includes a bag of tricks such as single top plates (where possible), insulation to the corners (using 3 studs rather than 4) and insulated or single headers. All this cuts down transmission through the wood and saves on lumber costs. It might not be a good idea for the first time builder however. Be conservative on the first house you frame. Then you will learn what you can eliminate.

[peg_688]

 Mtn D has it , wavy inside and out,   made worst /more  obvious with already wavy Hardi plank siding.

  Inside you can go to 5/8" rock to combat it , or wood T&G lumber paneling , "regular wood paneling the 1/4" or so stuff would still telegraph the wavy effect , even if layed over 1/2 "S/R . So 5/8" helps with the wavy.

By the time you do that you've spent more than the 16 "OC studs would have cost. And yes you get a bit higher R value , but in a small home that would be minuscule.

Not worth it IMO. I stay away from 24" OC when ever possible. Which it alway isn't in my case.      

[MountainDon]

Here's a picture re the corner studding John mentioned. Took me a while to find it.

You probably have more to gain from proper sealing to reduce air in/ex-filtration than you do by worrying about 16" vs 24" stud centers, IMHO

[MountainDon]

I was thinking of using 2x6 instead of 2x4 for my own little 14x26 cabin we're going to build this summer. I did all the material cost calcs, 16" vs 24" centers etc. Then I decided with all the windows the place will have I was being foolish worrying about the walls. The big heat pipes are the windows.  :-/   ...and I have more than enough trees that need to be cut I'm never going to have to worry about a little extra firewood. Not to mention the big National Forest that half surrounds me.

[peg_688]

Here's a picture re the corner studding John mentioned. Took me a while to find it.

You probably have more to gain from proper sealing to reduce air in/ex-filtration than you do by worrying about 16" vs 24" stud centers, IMHO

Those clips are a joke , how do you nail your base in the corner , how do you nail closet cleating in the corner??  And wahts that corner going to look like in a couple of seasons / years with only tape holding the Rock>>  

I would not recommend them most D/W crews would screw it up as well , I just don't see those working in the long haul.

But to each thier own.  

[MountainDon]

Thanks for your insight PEG.    I've never used them and never thought too much about them. I just knew about them. I'm glad your voice of practical field experience is here.     And you're probably right about a lot of the drywall crews.

[fishing_guy]

A couple of thoughts from a ex-wanna-be drywaller:

1.  I did it enough when I was younger that I found a different profession.

2.  I seem to remember that 1/2" was WAY lighter than 5/8".

3.  Those clips are utterly worthless.  By the time you have your fudge factor for the fit of the drywall, there isn't a whole lot holding up the sheet.  We used them for about a week way back in 1978.  Told the boss to get rid of the clips or us.  Luckily, he ditched the clips.

4.  You're just asking for trouble fot handging walls on 24" center.  Your eye follows the walls more closely than it does ceilings.  You WILL see every wobble.