20x34 two story second floor support

Started by rdzone, January 08, 2007, 07:51:14 PM

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rdzone

John,

I have started the 2 story universal cottage and have gotten the foundation and 1st floor deck on.  I used wooden I beams to support the 1st floor and I was going to use them for the second floor also, however I am going to install a tulikivi fireplace and the mason/builder suggested installing 4"x12"x20' DF beams with 2"x6" t&g flooring on top of that to provide a better thermal mass to heat the second story.  I have the 1 1/2 story cottage plans and have looked at mickys pictures.  Would what the mason discribes be acceptable?  I don't want to have to add any posts as I installed the I joists to free span the basement walls with no posts.  I think that is what micky did in his place and it looks wonderful.  What do you think?  

chuck
Chuck

John_M

#1
I used 4x12 hemlock beams for my cabin floor and put 2x8 T&G on top and I love it!  They are 48" on center.  I had the Amish cut them for me.  They were heavy!  Our cabin spans 18 feet so I am not sure on size, span and species requirements.  

John would better answer that part for ya!  

Here is what mine look like as I was building over the summer.



(John - I copied the image to photobucket and reposted - JR)
...life is short...enjoy the ride!!


John Raabe

If you can get good quality 4x12's they should work fine at the 19' span you would have. I ran a "Fir/Larch #2" beam with 50psf total floor load and it was more than stiff enough for 1/360 deflection for that span. This was at 48" o/c with T&G decking above. Rough cut would be even stiffer.

PS to all.... Once again our power is out on Whidbey Island  :-X. I'm getting pretty good at getting the generator up and running and getting an extension cord to the office. We are supposed to have a big freeze and some snow to add to this over the next three days. Normally we have very mild winters. Really!! :o
None of us are as smart as all of us.

Sassy

We had 70 degree weather today - 58 degrees at 7pm - but looking at 30-40's by end of week & teens at night... - so if it rains, it will be snow - even Fresno is expecting snow...
http://glennkathystroglodytecabin.blogspot.com/

You will know the truth & the truth will set you free

glenn kangiser

#4
Government weather tampering.  This is a job for HAARP. :)

What's it like to be out of power, John?  I wouldn't know --I'm off grid.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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John Raabe

#5
It's probably like a normal day for you Glenn....  ;)

We now have store bought electrons once again coming in the wires. The setup and teardown of the generator, lamps and extension cords is getting to be second nature now.

Light dusting of snow. Cold and sunny right now.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

rdzone

John.  

that looks great!

That is exactly what I want to do.  The only question I have is can I place the beams on top of the first floor walls just like I would the I joists?  I really don't want to build a bunch of pockets in the wall.  I would place addtional 2x6s under the beams for added support.
Chuck

PEG688

#7
 Yes place them on top of your plates , do a box sill out of 2 x12  just like you where going to do for your TJI's .   As far as putting a 2x6 post directly under the beam , it would be MO that would not be required [highlight](if your studs are 16 " OC)[/highlight]

  If you are 24"OC stud layout  and the beam /  ceiling joist  fell close to the center of that space I might throw in a stud / post directly under it. If where off set , so to speak, closer to one existing layed out stud I not even think about adding one.

 You'll never get a complete line up with this system of stud , joist, and rafters . As they are all layed out on differnt centers.

G/L PEG  
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

rdzone

Thanks PEG,

My studs will be 16" on center, with a double top plate.
Chuck


PEG688

Your welcome , The only thing I'll add is I do not have the plans so [highlight]if you have any point loads [/highlight], at a stair well , a dormer , etc.   those beams that border / hold that up MTL should be posted under. And that posting / point load bearing  should be carried to direct bearing.  Meaning solid blocking between / under the main floor level( in the joist bay ) to the foundation, or to a post and piers or large beam holding the whole works up.  
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

rdzone

Thanks again.  That shouldn't be a problem.  I can easily add blocking and posts under the load points.  I have a walk out basement, block on 2 1/2 + sides and 2x8 walls on the rest.  
Chuck