1x12 Eastern White pine for flooring

peg_688 · October 29, 2007, 02:44:09 PM

Quote

#1: Scratches and dents only add to the charm IMHO.

#2: Peg you ever hear of building a house and putting the floor planks down after the roof is on?

#3: Sounds nutty I know but most of the roof work will happen from scafolding anyways.

#4: What you think?

#5: My cabins not all that big 16x26'.

Scott

#1 : OMMV on that.

#2: No but MTL it's been done>

#3: Sounds NUTTY to me as well, what will you put that staging on ? The joist tops ? You'll be making it harder on yourself , sure you could set the staging on temp sheathing , but then what wiil you do with those sheets?

I think it's VERY NUTTY idea!

#4: See #3.

#5: I'd sheath the floor with 3/4 Edge gold and forget all the nutty ideas , pay me now pay me later sort of thing . Why make a job harder than it needs to be ? You subfloor should be under your wall plate not butted up to them, you'll create many down sides to building if you go that way.

But it's your time and your dime so >>>...........

G/L PEG

MountainDon · October 29, 2007, 03:06:58 PM

The only thing that beats a 3/4 inch T&G plywood sub-floor for solid is a concrete slab, IMO. If you a good solid plywood subfloor it leaves the door wide open for changes down the road. You never know when the lady of the house might develop a taste for ceramic tile. And that's another good reason for not pushing the envelope when it comes to choosing the floor joists. My 14 x 26 cabin joists will be 2x10 16"OC for the rigidity, possible ceramic tile use, and for the insulation. I may have brown paper or cardboard walls inside for a little while, but it's not going to bounce at all.

OMMV

October 29, 2007, 03:27:14 PM

MountainDon said:

QuoteYou never know when the lady of the house might develop a taste for ceramic tile.

...and if she does I'd suggest getting her a good set of carbide teeth and a cast iron stomach.

PEG -- I think I may be getting as funny as you...

ScottA · October 29, 2007, 03:44:20 PM

Alright I give up but how do I keep the plywood from getting wet and warped? Glen I had hunch there was something funny about you.

Scott

glenn kangiser · October 29, 2007, 04:16:41 PM

That's probably true, Scott, but my wife keeps telling me that looks aren't everything.

Exterior glue on the plywood? Someone mentioned spraying it down with a coat of concrete sealer - may have been for OSB -- and I assume it is sub- floor so a drain hole drilled here and there would help along with squeegeeing or sweeping the excess water off after rains. That is what they did for 6 months at an apartment complex I worked on.

October 29, 2007, 05:10:09 PM

QuotePEG -- I think I may be getting as funny as you...

... nobody's as weird as you though.

glenn kangiser · October 29, 2007, 10:06:27 PM

Thanks, Don.

On this board, I think that Stinkerbell may run me a close second though. :-/

Okie_Bob · October 30, 2007, 05:27:08 AM

Peg, I actually have my location in my profile but, it doesn't show up when I post something. Sorry for the inconvenience.
You are correct about the cupping. Finished side up and moisture must be coming from underneath causing the sides to turn up. And I couldn't agree with you more. But, this sales guy claimed to have just moved into sales from being an installer with years of experience. And he could answer any question I had off the top of his head...which should have maybe been a clue. Anyway, he was dead wrong and I do intend to go back to Lumber Liq with pics as you suggest. I know they will claim their only liability is to replace the material and of course that is a fraction of the cost to remove and replace if I wanted to do that.
To proceed-yes, the underside of the subfloor is insulated with about 4" of Icynene, the subfloor is 1 1/4" T&G plywood, nailed and glued and 15# felt under the 'heart pine' flooring. The crawl space under the floor is completely sealed except for vents which have been open all summer due to the heat. The flooring material was delivered to me around the first of August and I started laying it in mid September. It had been in the house from the day it arrived until present and the house has been air conditioned the entire time.
Peg, I'm sure I did something wrong but, I can't figure out what it was. The only thing I can come up with is that I did not have a moisture content meter so there could have been a marked difference in the MC of the subfloor and the finished flooring. (that was why I asked the sales guy where I could go buy a MC meter)
Sounds like maybe I should have gone with an unfinished flooring and then let it set for a few months before finishing. That way the moisture could more easily remain constant as it equalized?

? That was what I had planned until I went to buy the material and found the cost of unfinished vs finished was very close and I figured it would sure save me a lot of work.
Anyway, thanks for your help. I may just leave the flooring as is for now, let it's MC equalize and at some point in the future come in with a big belt sander and sand it smooth and refinish. What do you think about that?
Okie Bob

PEG688 · October 30, 2007, 08:55:13 AM

They say those floating floors can be sanded, I've never seen it done , but I think the sander would move the flooring around , and I think that will make for a poor sanding job. At least I see issues with doing that, but some times I look to hard for problem.

I figure if you don't look for what can go wrong , IT WILL GO WRONG !

But that's just me. It's worth a try. I'd try to rent the newer model Radom orbit type floor sander rather then the older , and more common drum type sander , the RO should move the flooring LESS and that may help the process.

G/L PEG

BTW the "They " I mentioned are "sales type" people , take that for what it's worth ! In my book , NOT MUCH!

glenn kangiser · October 30, 2007, 10:42:28 AM

Seems to me that if it is a quality product it shouldn't take a rocket scientist to successfully install it. I think I'd jump on the supplier.

Doesn't Icynene prevent movement of vapor?

Only difference in moisture could have been sub-floor could have been damp? Vapor couldn't go down so went up expanding bottom of finish flooring material? Just thinking what could cause it. Already covered though I think.

glenn kangiser · October 30, 2007, 10:48:50 AM

Reading Charlie Wing's book I remember a warpage diagram. Could be just the way the wood was sawn and finished. Solid wood likes to do it's own thing.

Here is a similar diagram to what Charlie Wing had.

Study the diagram and study the wood to see what caused the problem. Note that heart wood going to sapwood is much worse for warping than farther out on the log. Boards made from small logs don't have much chance to stay flat, as the heartwood is more stable than the sapwood. It is a property of solid wood. Wider boards will show more problem than narrower boards.

I notice this when cutting my own boards on my sawmill. Doesn't make the problem any better -- may just make it easier to understand what is happening.

.

Okie_Bob · October 31, 2007, 06:54:43 AM

Peg, the floor is not floating. It is nailed down GOOD. Rented a floor nail gun and remember this is 3/4" T&G flooring. Solid heart pine.
I do appreciate all the replies and want to respond to all but, I'm in a really big hurry this morning and it will just have to wait.
Thanks agin to everyone!
Okie Bob

glenn kangiser · October 31, 2007, 08:35:43 AM

Enjoy your day, BoB.

I researched this a bit - no actual complaints on the product quality but some were concerned it would have problems and talked about not buying it. Some liked it just fine.

The ones that like it fine seemed to have used the unfinished though. That doesn't mean the finished was good or bad -- just that I didn't find it.

October 31, 2007, 08:55:45 AM

Ah sorry BoB , well all the MORE reason to have checked the MC before installing. Hopefully you where sort of like Nixon and taped that phone conversation with the supplier

1x12 Eastern White pine for flooring

peg_688

John_C