MUST build tmy house to code

MushCreek · July 23, 2012, 04:50:22 AM

Quote from: Don_P on July 22, 2012, 10:28:31 PM
I did come home from your state today, from around Clemson through Gaffney... we're in peaches
Spent the evening in Greenville along the river. Nice country up that way but a bit far to commute.

You snuck by within about ten miles of my build! Best peaches in the world, IMHO.

alex trent · July 23, 2012, 05:52:51 AM

Curious here.... reading about them on the site here and online, it seems everyone prefers pressure treated 6 x 6 over concrete piers

The 6x6 can either go in the ground and right up to support the beams, or can rest on concrete piers or you can do concrete all the way up. Pros and cons to each. Piers with posts mean you have a connection at the concrete and wood interface (that is the Simpson connectors being talked about). Wood posts all the way down means you have wood in the ground resting on some type of footer to distribute the weight in the soil. I personally do not like the idea of wood in the ground, but it is done. you need to do quite a bit of homework before you do pies...soil bearing capacity is a good place to start...the inspector is another. I would chat with him/her and get a first reaction.

Just a note....on foundations here, there are two types being discussed and a bit of mixing. Slab and crawl space. Different..with a crawl space you will need joists, beams and sub flooring. So in your comparison, keep them separate.

Also, to keep costs down level ground is best...will do away with need for a lot of excavation, which costs money.

July 23, 2012, 06:26:34 AM

I do need to get directions Jay, I knew we were close.

Steve, section 404, " concrete and masonry foundation walls" concrete block is the masonry there.

A wood post pinned to a concrete pier is something that has evolved here independent of any qualified review. The Simpson post base and beam connectors are not designed to resist the lateral loads this configuration experiences. That is the reason this type of foundation needs to be designed by someone competent in structural engineering.

Steve_B · July 23, 2012, 08:04:06 AM

What are the feelings of building the foundation for a 20 x 30 1.5 story out of cinder blocks?

Using the standard 8 x 8 x 16 block and stacking them three blocks high would give me roughly 24 inches under the joists to work with in terms of installing drains and such

If my calculations are correct, it would take 225 ( 8 x 8 x 16 ) cinder blocks to do a three tier level

Any thoughts on this idea for a foundation?

Squirl · July 23, 2012, 08:22:06 AM

http://www.sakrete.com/products/detail.cfm/prod_alias/Surface-Bonding-Cement

Quickwall is the name brand for quikrete's SBC system.

Yes, cinder blocks are known as hollow concrete masonry units (cmu) in the code.
http://publicecodes.citation.com/st/sc/st/b4v07/st_sc_st_b4v07_4_sec004.htm?bu2=undefined

South Carolina's code is a little sparse on information, but relying on the larger IRC should suffice. Just run it by your inspector.

http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_4_sec004_par001.htm

225 sounds about right. Lots of people here have built 20x30's with concrete blocks.

By recollection it is 15 blocks on one side, 14 on the other and 22 down each of the long sides. Then just alternate the other side to 15 and 14. Perfect fit for a 20x30. Your plans probably call for a 2x12 center beam, I went with a triple 2x8 because they fit better in the 8" block pocket.

July 23, 2012, 08:35:12 AM

I'd suggest you consider another block high..make it a lot easier to work underneath. little extra cost.

Squirl..what kind of footings do you have for your blocks?

What are your center piers like?

Squirl · July 23, 2012, 09:03:19 AM

The wall footings are 7" thick, 12" wide with 2 strips of #4 rebar. I wanted to go large enough to have the option of someone adding a second floor if someone wanted to someday. The building will outlive me and other people tend to want more space.

The center piers are five 16"x16" 4000 psi concrete with #4 rebar at ground level. There is a half block mortared above that with a simpson bracket to a PT 6x6. I then toe nailed that to each girder and nailed a plate over each.

I bought blocks last year. From the local block company they were about $1.25. So without the mortar, you are probably talking about $100 per course.

CjAl · July 23, 2012, 09:09:24 AM

i have just under $3000 into my pier and beam to the same point as a slab would put me. i could have had a slab put in for almost the same. only reason i went with the pier is it allowed me to.build it and pay for it in three steps instead of paying for the whole slab at one time.

Steve_B · July 23, 2012, 04:56:25 PM

I would just like to say thank you to all for the information, advice, thoughts, and help!

I daringly say that I am counting on all of you to get me through building my house!

July 23, 2012, 05:04:27 PM

Squirl..

Why the half block on the center line?

Steve...

Important to run stuff by the group before going to far with most stuff...as you did here I did that and it saved me a lot of heartache and redoing stuff. Once you do it, can be really tough to take the advice. You'll get some different opinions on some stuff, but you can sort them out with a bit more work. I also got a lot of tips on making it easier which came from experience of others doing it many times and passing it on to me.

If you have not sone so, pays in spades to go back and look at various builds as they were documented. Just the pics can show a lot and there is discussion around lots of key topics. I learned about nails.screws on here!! Lots to learn and it made my house better.

Squirl · July 24, 2012, 08:57:32 AM

The half block was simply to try and better distribute the downward force across a larger surface area. Rather than have 30 square inches transition to 256 square inches , I had 30 square inches transition to 56 square inches, then 256 square inches. In reality the thickness of the concrete along with the 4000 psi strength could probably have handled the full load in one spot, I just felt more comfortable distributing it.

rick91351 · July 24, 2012, 09:04:33 AM

Quote from: Squirl on July 24, 2012, 08:57:32 AM
The half block was simply to try and better distribute the downward force across a larger surface area. Rather than have 30 square inches transition to 256 square inches , I had 30 square inches transition to 56 square inches, then 256 square inches. In reality the thickness of the concrete along with the 4000 psi strength could probably have handled the full load in one spot, I just felt more comfortable distributing it.

As an ex-concrete guy

looks like you did good! I did like those houses however that we poured with a center footing and a knee wall was framed on the footing.

NM_Shooter · July 24, 2012, 11:58:56 AM

X2 on code check for electrical reference. I also bought an NEC book and found it to be almost worthless in respect to how expensive they are.

Do not fear your electrical install!!!! You can save a ton of money doing your own rough-in for the electrical, and it is fun and easy.

Consider laying in your grounding rods when doing your foundation.

The ride along with the inspector is an interesting idea. I wish I had thought of that. Good way to get to know your inspector too.

Here in NM, you can pull your own plumbing and electrical permits, but you need to pass a written test to do so. The code check book was sufficient for me to use as a study aid.