Well we finally got the house dried in and safe from the outside elements.
The roof was shingled last Tuesday and on Wednesday night we got 2 1/2 inches of rain...that was too close but thank goodness that is now behind us.
The DH and a friend worked all of last week putting up the soffett, fascia board and then wrapped the house in the 30# felt ....covering the window openings and the back door.
He left the front door opening uncovered for ventilation.....its protected by the 8X48 porch covering.
At the present it just looks like a huge black box with a huge front porch.
Next phase......windows and doors
Does anyone have a reccomendation for windows?
Anderson , Marvin, Pella...etc........
I'll try and get some updated pictiures posted as soon as I get my back up computer set up....my laptop crashed.
QuoteAt the present it just looks like a huge black box with a huge front porch.
Next phase......windows and doors
Anderson , Marvin, Pella...etc........
[size=12]All good names , the only thing that I'll add is be sure to let who ever you decide to go with know the rough opening sizes you framed in/ for .
Some of the spendy windows , clad wood / wood framed types take" odd size openings" . So if you framed for vinyl window where a 48" wide window comes 47 1/2" wide , and you pick a clad window you might have issues.
It's good to be "In the dry" a mile stone on every project :)
[size=20] Great job :)[/size]
Keep up the good work , PEG :)
[/size]
I would look for low e windows with with U and air infiltration of .3 or less. Energy star window are generally pretty good too...
Here is a little tool at:
http://www.efficientwindows.org/selection.cfm
Do not be a tight nerd on your windows. get good ones.
And don't forget...even the big names make some less than great windows and some of the no-names make some great windows that rival the big names. Heck some of the no-name windows are rebadged big names.
Bill Gates makes Windows that are guaranteed to fail at least once a week. :-/
Unless you get Windows Grade XP ----Xtra Problems ----- then it may be oftener. :)
Aww, c'mon glenn, that was too easy! [smiley=lolk.gif]
I agree with everything posted 'bout windows. My one additional bit of advice is to be wary of argon filled glazing. The theory is good, but in practice the seals tend to fail, and your expensive noble gas is "Gone with the wind". At leat that was the case when I was a millwork sales guy, (job # 123, I believe [smiley=shocked.gif] )
Window type is good to consider, too. Casement windows are cool, and can be adjusted to catch the prevailing breezes. The downside is price, and traffic patterns outside, (bonk, ouch). Double hung are also good for ventilation, since you can open the top on oneside of the room and the bottom on the other to get better air circulation. I recomend the tilt / clean feature, especially on upper floors.
I like sliders myself, since they tend to be less expensive and have less hardware to go awry. Trying to find a replacement operator for a casement window in fifteen or so years can sometimes be fun!
The solar house book by Daniel D. Chiras covers home windows nicely. He recommend no more that 2% West, 4% North and East, 7% South or more on the south end if you have thermal mass to absorb the heat, up to 12%, multiple these values times sq ft to get the max window for a side of a house to give you the max warmth in the winter and coolness in the summer.
You also may want to look for UV protection.
If you want darker windows now is the time to buy them. It is call VT... like 60 VT is clear and 50% appears dark. Lower the number the darker the window will be...
The above is for the max sq footage of window glaze for a side of a home...
[/quote]
[size=12]All good names , the only thing that I'll add is be sure to let who ever you decide to go with know the rough opening sizes you framed in/ for .
Some of the spendy windows , clad wood / wood framed types take" odd size openings" . So if you framed for vinyl window where a 48" wide window comes 47 1/2" wide , and you pick a clad window you might have issues.
It's good to "In the dry" a mile stone on every project :)
[size=20] Great job :)[/size]
Keep up the good work , PEG :)
[/size] [/quote]
Its been a long journey and we still have a long way to go .
But it is a relief to be in the dry! :)
QuoteI would look for low e windows with with U and air infiltration of .3 or less. Energy star window are generally pretty good too...
Here is a little tool at:
http://www.efficientwindows.org/selection.cfm
Thanks K4!
I am reading on the link that you posted......a lot of good information!
QuoteAww, c'mon glenn, that was too easy! [smiley=lolk.gif]
Sorry 'bout that Billy Bob. It was there so I took it. I'm feeling lazy today -getting ready for the return to work, so may not be real funny - except the way I look and you shouldn't pick on me about that. I was born that way. :-/
QuoteBill Gates makes Windows that are guaranteed to fail at least once a week. :-/
Unless you get Windows Grade XP ----Xtra Problems ----- then it may be oftener. :)
;D That was funny Glenn!
Yeah I had that XP version on my laptop.....constantly crashing! >:(
Hey, thanks, Pioneergal. My efforts at being funny aren't going to waste. :)
I have to restart at least once a day - and that is on a new computer with anti-virus - anti-spyware and a pretty fast processor. :-/
Generally speaking, I rarely use or consider 'brand name' windows like Pella, Marvin, or Andersen for projects, unless my customer specifically requests them.
As mentioned by others, 'name' brand windows can cost significantly more than 'no name' windows and provide no better or even less energy peformance and many times offer shorter warranty periods.
Here in the northeast, for instance, I prefer Harvey windows not only for their energy compliance, but because they have a 20 year warranty on glass and a lifetime warranty on everything else. http://www.harveyindustries.com
The primary factor one should consider is U-factor followed by solar heat gain coefficient when selecting a window.
Building Codes require mandatory energy performance criteria for windows today based on one's location.
U-factor is a measure of a window's ability as a whole, including glazing and frame, to transmit energy.
The lower the U-factor the better the window's abilty to resist energy loss through the building's thermal envelope. http://resourcecenter.pnl.gov/cocoon/morf/ResourceCenter/article//102
In colder climates, only windows with low E coatings and argon filling will provide U factors low enough to comply with energy codes.
Solar Heat Gain is the window's abilty to absorb Infra Red radiation, a factor in energy loss since absorbed heat from the exterior of the building's thermal envelope will increase energy consumption by way of excessive cooling costs. http://www.energycodes.gov/support/shgc_faq.stm
Mosts states have mandatory Energy Codes, and windows and doors, need to comply with these Codes, and there are usually several methods or paths one may take to achieve compliance..
Typically, in states where the International Residential Code is in use, one can use the built-in prescribed methods printed in the Code when the amount of galzing for the building is less than 15% in area of the building's exterior wall surfaces, otherwise compliance must be achieved by meeting the requirements of the more strict International Energy Conservation Code.
Based on the IEEC, the US Department of Energy produces an alternate performance based compliance software package that can assist in achieving energy code compliance much more flexible than those printed in the prescribed codes. This REScheck uses a 'trade-off' approach, for example, by allowing less energy efficient windows but demanding higher ceiling, floor, insulation R-values or higher efficiency heating/cooling appliances to achive the same goal. You can access REScheck software for free at http://www.energycodes.gov
REScheck is the energy compliance choice for most builders and designers.
In summary, choosing windows needs to be done more for compliance with the energy codes than for looks and style. Windows are but one element of the whole building's energy efficiency that needs to be considered when building.
You can check the requirements for energy code compliance for your state at this link:
http://www.energycodes.gov/implement/state_codes/index.stm
Here is a little more about window at
http://www.efficientwindows.org/var_shading.cfm
Does anyone know who make a decent windows in Georgia? Not a name brand...ty
That link to Efficient Windows Collaborative (http://www.efficientwindows.org/ftypes.cfm) is very good for exploring window technologies.
Here are some suggestions and brand names I have worked with:
• For highest efficiency per $ spent look for a locally made vinyl frame argon filled and/or low-e dual glazed unit. They should have standard sizes and be able to custom cut windows for little more than stock size prices. Local brands in WA; Milgard (http://www.milgard.com/products/vinyl-windows/), Alpine (http://www.alpinewindowsystems.com/).
• If you are looking for wood windows see if there is a local company and compare them to Anderson's (http://www.andersenwindows.com/UE/ProductGuide/Residential/) 400 series (their contractor window is very good).
• If you are in a very cold climate super windows (http://www.tlwindows.com/heatMirror.htm), heat mirror, and other triple layer strategies may be cost effective.
• Compare the warranty on the window seals. This is how most windows fail (fogging between the panels).
Will vinyl windows fade after so long? I was thinking of getting aluminum as the exterier weather sealer...ty
I have been told by window guys here that the "cheap" good windows are at Lowes included in the price is "low E"... might want to check it out.
Vinyl windows will get a little chalky after many years. Vinyl frames generally come in only light colors as the dark ones will warp in hot sun. Fiberglass is another frame type that is stealing market share from vinyl in some areas. These can usually be painted whereas vinyl cannot. The main problem with aluminum is that the frames cost more to insulate properly. Condensation and frost will be a problem on standard (non thermal-break) aluminum windows. There are many good (higher priced) windows that have an aluminum cladding over a wood or fiberglass frame. Pela is one brand that does this (http://www.homeportfolio.com/catalog/guide/Windows_&_Doors/Windows/Exterior_Finish/Aluminum_Clad.jhtml;$sessionid$Q1Y00LQAAAMPJQFIAM1CFEY).
Compare the overall U-value of the entire window not just the glass.
I chose the Lowes windows Bronze frame Low E
(http://i3.tinypic.com/wbdnxg.jpg)
24x60
(http://i3.tinypic.com/wbdod2.jpg)
36x60
Jimmy, Lowes brand...approximately how much per window? nice looking
QuoteJimmy, Lowes brand...approximately how much per window? nice looking
I think it was 88.00 for the 24x60 and 108.00 for the 36x60 windows.
I will check my price list when I get home and update this post
I have 36x60, 24x60, and 36x36.
QuoteQuoteJimmy, Lowes brand...approximately how much per window? nice looking
I think it was 88.00 for the 24x60 and 108.00 for the 36x60 windows.
I will check my price list when I get home and update this post
I have 36x60, 24x60, and 36x36.
Jimmy those are some nice looking windows.
AND I want to also congratulate you on the beautiful job that you doing building your house!
Have you decided on a siding and color scheme?
Lowes windows appear to be thermally broken. Here's what they say at the website.
"Aluminum - Aluminum windows are more durable than bare wood—also thinner, lighter and easier to handle. They are insulated with a thermal break of extruded vinyl and sometimes also foam, which reduces heat loss and condensation. Finishes protect the aluminum from corrosion, but deteriorate in coastal areas due to the salty air."
These may be slightly different windows in different markets as the may be manufactured locally.
Can't frame first and then buy windows with this strategy, also need a place to store them, but
I know people who've gotten serious bargains from either a local manufacturer's back lot (whole house's worth of matching windows in one case made for a customer who had backed out at the last minute) or a (locally owned will work better here) building supply's boneyard. Person I know who did this did have each room's windows matching--but she haunted about six places for months. Most were more or less on her way to or from work. And I've gotten sample windows for a project. They didn't need to match ;) .
Lowes link to the windows..
I got the BetterBilt windows labeled Low E, not the ones that are labeled insulated glass
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&pad=true&No=0&Ne=8000&category=BetterBilt&N=0+5000047+4294966953
I am going to build another small house in a few yrs. I will be using windows that do not open on top and just below them awing windows. Try to prevent as much leakage as i can.
Several of us in my part of the country--including me--are thinking about how to open transom type windows--probably heavy windowsm and definitely to the outside (as opposed to the ones I remember from childhood, where they mostly went into the hall).
suggestions welcome.