My wife and I purchased 6 acres in the northern black hills november 2009 and I thought that I would post my progress to all of you since I've learned so much from all of your projects. We spent the bulk of the summer figuring out where to build, cutting timber and drinking beer by the fire. My first priority of spring is to move the "office" that I built last winter onto the property.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1084.jpg)
We also moved a pop-up onto the property
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1083.jpg)
This is the drive into the property (my boys are on the bikes).
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1074.jpg)
Thats all for now. I hope this linking of pics actually works ???
The second weekend after I hauled up the camper, we pulled into this :(
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1104.jpg)
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1100.jpg)
Well I know what you all are saying is "Why would you set up anywhere near a dead tree" d*. All I can say is that after the initial set-up I realized my error and plan on moving the camper this weekend. My stupid logic was that the tree had been there for 30 years, whats one weekend more gonna hurt. ouch. After talking my wife (off the ledge) and explaining to her "at least we weren't sleeping in there" (didn't help things) she calmed down a little. The upside of things were that the tree was so punky that it only stabbed 5 holes in the ceiling and did not affect the operation of the camper so I mended it with flashing and roofing silicon. The downside is that our $4000 camper value is a big loss. Insurance won't cover it :-\
After locating our build site I got started a few weeks ago. My hope is to be dried in before winter sets in. I purchased the "Whole Enchilada" kit from this site last spring and it has been a great help. The only major change is that I am using the post frame method. I finally remembered to bring the camera this last weekend so here is my progress:
Front view lookin north:
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/southernview.jpg)
Oh yeah....I tweaked my back carrying the 3/4" subfloor onto the deck during a windy day and was sentenced to 3 days on my living room floor with back spasms :-\
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/easternview.jpg)
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/westernview.jpg)
That certainly is a well braced "pier" to work from. Any more detail photos or descriptions of the floor system connection to the posts would be appreciated.
We built 7 houses out there one year, almost bought some property, I really like the hills. Where are you near?
The holes are 46" deep with 4" of crushed gravel. The posts are 2x6 glued and spliced together. The 24' sides of the posts have a 2x12 lagged into the inside. A 2x10 joist system sits on top. The cabin is not far from O'Neill Pass or about 22 miles west of Deadwood.
Ready for sheathing.....i think. Weather permitting, I hope to have it knocked off by tomorrow.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1256.jpg)
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1254.jpg)
Nice looking area. What a time for a snag to decide to fall.... [waiting]
Great start! [cool]
A nice spot. Going to be a nice cabin too. Hope the future firewood falls further away next time.
Here is my latest progress as of last weekend..... I hope. We have had 48 hours of 40 to 50 mph wind gusts and I have a sick feeling that my rafters have uninstalled themselves.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1291.jpg)
Its really shaping up to look good! I think your fears are typical of a builder, I often second guess everything I do and have a phobia that I will return to my place and something will have collapsed, but I wanna say that you did good by installing the sway brace, that should hold things in place
+1 to what Nathan said. Actually, I still pull in thinking I'm going to find a disaster or some sort - it doesn't necessarily end once its built!
Very nice cabin, I look forward to watching your progress.
Well I drove up to the project today expecting to salvage what was left of the rafters and beam and to my surprise it held up. Had to chain up the truck to get through the drifts. I spent half of the day shoveling out the cabin and the other half putting up the upper gable studs. Not much progress but still elated and relieved to be moving forward and not back.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1294.jpg)
Project looks great MPLS !
Glad you didn't suffer any damage. Once you get the roofing on, everything will be much more secure, and you will be able to rest a lot easier.
Glad to see you survived the winds and snow! I remember racing up to the cabin (4 hrs one way) to check tarps and pray...only to do it again if I didn't get up to work on it....was a fretful time but we survived and I'm sure you will -- enjoy the experience!
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1324.jpg)
Ready for felt! If any of you have done this on a 12/12 roof alone or with help don't be afraid to chime in. My plan is to build a makeshift scaffolding so I can lay the first two courses and then dig my toes into a 20' 2x4 the rest of the way. Also did anyone experience extreme muscle soreness after lugging sheathing 11 feet up a ladder and hanging like a monkey while shooting staples?? ;-)
d
We screwed 2 X 4 toe boards across the roof to climb on,about 3ft. apart. Next we cut the tar paper just a little long and laid it horizontally, working down the roof, sliding the next course under the one above. The plastic capped nails for tar paper help with wind damage.
Safety First
QuoteAlso did anyone experience extreme muscle soreness after lugging sheathing 11 feet up a ladder and hanging like a monkey while shooting staples?? ;-)
Yep! I got to know that ladder well. A side benefit though, at the end of the day a cold beer never tasted better. 8)
I nail 2x4 toeboards to the roof and work either way, up or down. Main reason for responding is to mention that screws can shear under this load. I had a helper take a trip down the roof this way. Nails bend, screws snap.
scaffolding nails make removal easy. I think ease of removal is one reason some folks like screws.
Well I got the house wrapped about 3 weeks ago and just made it. The snow is too deep for my pick-up. I plan to ski/snowshoe in periodically this winter to check on it. c*
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1347.jpg)
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1348.jpg)
Well I snowshoed in to the the cabin this last weekend to check things out and do a little electrical work. The snow was about 4' deep and the gale force winds made it interesting but I made it. I packed in about three loads of supplies in a duluth pack and my tracks had vanished each time I made a trip.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1410.jpg)
Question: What is the easiest way to install rafter ties as level/straight as possible? I attempted to nail up the two ties at the ends and run a chalk line. I plan to use T&G knotty pine on the ceiling and I want to be sure it comes out relatively straight. Will an inch or more of variation bite me in the butt later on? :-\
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1422.jpg)
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1423.jpg)
How far a distance do you have to 'shoe in? That's getting to be serious weather when your own tracks fill in that quickly.
I think you are on the right track. If it was me, I would likely snap the line as horizontal as possible near the peak. Install the ties. Then measure down the rafter from the chalk line to the bottom and mark the lower edge of the T&G.
BTW, those ties across the rafters up close to the ridge board are collar ties. They help keep the roof from peeling off at the ridge under high wind conditions. Rafter ties are located lower, in the bottom third.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/construction/framing.jpg)
Normally it would be about 3 miles to get into the cabin but a neighbor about a mile past me is having a log cabin built so they have been plowing the main road in. I only have about 400 yards from the road that I need to shoe in.
Thanks for the info. I think my ridge board is about 1" out of level from end to end which is throwing off my measurements. I suppose when I trim out my cabin I will be able to hide some of these errors. Thanks for the terminology correction. It's hard to state what you mean when you don't know the terms d*
Brought my dog with me and he non-verbally told me he won't come up again without a haircut :(
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1421.jpg)
We had a Cairn Terrier. That photo brings back memories. How's he do in the summer with all the sticky weeds?
I am in awe of how far plants will go to reproduce :o We spend more time than I care to admit picking burrs out of him. My favorite is when his ears stick together above his head in a bun. I think we will shave him down in the next month or so.
Quote from: mpls_ham on February 15, 2011, 02:51:30 PM
Normally it would be about 3 miles to get into the cabin but a neighbor about a mile past me is having a log cabin built so they have been plowing the main road in. I only have about 400 yards from the road that I need to shoe in.
Thanks for the info. I think my ridge board is about 1" out of level from end to end which is throwing off my measurements. I suppose when I trim out my cabin I will be able to hide some of these errors. Thanks for the terminology correction. It's hard to state what you mean when you don't know the terms d*
Brought my dog with me and he non-verbally told me he won't come up again without a haircut :(
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Elk%20Meadows%202010/IMG_1421.jpg)
How cute :) He looks like he's saying "Daaaaad!" with those soulful, reproachful eyes...
:D :D :D I don't think I'd be too happy either if I was carrying that in my undercarriage. :-*
My suggested caption to the photo "Give a guy a break!"
I'm planning on building a shed porch and am looking for some opinions on the best way to approach this. The porch would run the length of the cabin (24') and the decking would extend out 6'. The porch would also have full southern exposure. My question is this....Should I run my porch rafters from the cabin top plates or do I nail up a ledger board below the eaves of the cabin and start there? My concerns are mostly snow load. The cabin pitch is 12/12 and currently sheds all snow. The shed pitch would be 6/12 at best. The cabin rafters are 2x6 at 2'oc and will not hold a lot of dead weight. My preference is the ledger because I like the look better but I worry that snow would build up under the cabins roof and cause water problems. I'm at the point that a decision needs to be made soon before I lay the tin down. To see what I'm talking about reference the pix at the top of this page.
Whatya think?
Thanks..
I think I would nail a ledger into the wall with enough distance between the two roofs so that you can work on the siding and flashing. Flash the lower roof so that any water coming between the two roofs will drain onto the lower roof.
I would have to agree with John on the ledger. I would go one step furher and lag bolt it to the structural supports of the wall. Might I suggest 8' instead of 6'. Your material would work out much better with less waste and I am sure that you will make better use of the space being it wil be 8' deep rather than 6'.
Have you made an end elevation drawing so you can see how much pitch you can get on that shed roof?
You are right; going by the snow load map up there shows a lot of 50 and 60 psf and those rafters are close to that limit.
You most likely will get snow build up where the 12/12 meets the shed roof. My neighbor in the Jemez has a similar setup. The big difference is his shed roof is over a wider room and is likely only 4/12. He cut the rafter tails off the 12/12 roof and placed the shed rafters on the side wall top plate. That way the load at that point is supported by structural members and not just mechanical fasteners (nails or lag screws). It also gains some height which may be advantageous. At least your finished roof is not installed yet, his was and it meant a lot of extra work. The outer end is supported by columns and a beam with the whole works on oiers and footings just like the rest of the cabin. He covered the entire valley where the shed meets the 12/12 with snow & ice guard. As far as I know he's not had any leaks.
If it was me I'd even have considered starting the shed rafters part way back up the 12/12 slope in order to get more slope on the shed. That would likely have meant using a larger rafter though. I'm guessing on that, but it seems that method would introduce a higher load midway up the 12/12 rafter where the shed roof ties in.
They actually make a metal transition piece if you decide to go with metal roof. It is like a piece of valley metal which gets tucked under the upper roof and rolls over the lower. Like Don stated I would use a layer of Ice Guard on the sheeting of asphalt roofs and metal roofs if you are not using purlins. I used a drop in my porch shed roof from the main roof 10/12. I installed a soffit on the main roof. There doesn't appear to be any build up of snow in that area. You will however need to provide a vent system from the porch to the main roof if you do not have a drop in elevation between the two roofs from which to draw air.
My original plan was to ignore the porch this summer and concentrate on getting moved in by fall. (We also wanted to determine if it would even be necessary because the porch will block all direct sunlight from our front door and windows.) Running the porch directly from the top plate would require that I get started on it as soon as the snow melts.
I've drawn it out and I think the drop to the ledger would look the best. My cabin gable overhang is two feet and the porch roof would be no wider then the cabin walls.
Red - I thought about the two extra feet but it only decreases my pitch. The main function for the porch is to allow access in the winter, easy firewood access and ride out an occasional thunderstorm in the summer. Maybe coffee in the morning ;-) We will create a patio area outside the sliding glass door with a fire ring, picnic table for our outdoor comforts.
If I had my choice I would use the ledger below because of asthetics and my summer plans would not be altered. What I don't want is 10' of snow piling up at the top of the porch and stressing/crushing the cabin roof. I can beef up the porch to hold alot of weight but my cabin roof cannot be beefed up at this point.
The $10,000 question is:
Will a 6' deep porch with metal roofing at a 4/12 pitch and southern exposure drop 10 – 20 feet of snow off it during the course of a winter. ???
Thanks again for reading my blathering and helping me work this one out.
Well, we have a metal roof on the cabin at about 5/12 pitch. The snow piles up on iy and does not slide off until the tempersatures modersate and get above freezing. Otherwise it sits there. Ditto on the 4/12 metal roof on the house in town. And the neighbor I mentioned up near our cabin always has a pile of snow that has slid down off the 12/12 to the lower pitch, until it gets warm enough.
Our snow falls are not usually more than a couple feet at a time and it usually warms enough for it to melt and slide. Historically though there are a couple storms within the past 25 years when over four feet fell in a couple days and it stayed cold. That was why my roof was designed to a snow load of just under 90 pounds.
I had originally considered 6' porches on my house as well as the cabin but ultimately went for 8'. I guess you could get 12' decking and half it for the deck for 6'. 8' decking is just common as well as 16' which could also be halved. I considered having rockers, gliders, chairs, tables and the like and thought I needed more room than 3' to walk past them along the outside edge. Turns out the cost was minimal in comparison to the lesser size.
Last winter was a rather harsh winter for us with accumulation at one snowfall in the 3' range. The 10/12 pitched roof slid and pushed the snow off of the porch roof sending it some 20' out into the yard.
Here is a couple pictures of the main/porch roof with the stepdown. With the pitch of the porch being 4/12 I would estimate from roof to roof there is approximately 16" difference.
(https://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd161/redoverfarm/hightop/100_1561-1.jpg)
(https://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd161/redoverfarm/hightop/100_1560-1.jpg)
(https://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd161/redoverfarm/hightop/100_1889-1.jpg)
Nice photos Redoverfarm - that helps everyone visualize.
I agree on the 8' depth of the proch. It make a huge difference in usability. 6' is everyone sitting with their backs against the wall.
RE: snow... Just beef up the rafters on the porch and wait out the snow. It will slide off by June :D
Thank you Red and Mt Don for helping me relink my pix to this thread. Now I can get back to my updates.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1691.jpg)
Well my job (excavation) has slowed down to the point that the "cabin reserve fund" has dwindled down to nothing so the cabin construction has slowed to a crawl. It's killin me now that I have the time to build, I am unable to do so. I did get the metal roofing up a couple of weeks ago.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_1688.jpg)
There are plenty of things to do that cost little to nothing to do. Now I just have to organize and prioritize (not my specialty :-\)
Well the summer has come and gone and the cabin is still not finished. I broke ground a little over a year ago. I was able to work the exterior on my trips up. I was able to buy some old galv metal this summer and have been screwing it on to the sides of the cabin that will have snow against it this winter. The rest of the walls will be board and batten.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_2020-1.jpg)
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_20502.jpg)
Its time to start working on the inside now that the porch is up. I will complete the siding next summer and tie up the loose ends. I'll have electricity by next week and will start by installing the woodstove. I'm hoping the big snow will hold off until Christmas.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_2111.jpg)
I'm hoping that the 2x6 rafters at 16oc will be beefy enough to hold snow if it decides to not slide off.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_2112.jpg)
I am totally digging the old metal siding job that you did... just curious how did you find all that used metal. I just got the roof on my cabin as well,,, if you want to shoot me an email at okielawman28@yahoo.com we can swap some pics....
What did you do about all the existing holes that were in the old tin,,, are you worried about water damage to the walls through the old tin... did you caulk them up?
Anyways... I just liked the rustic look of the old metal...
Thanks
Chris
aka.... Crappie Slayer
Guess I missed your place! I like how you used the old metal [cool]
We've used some on a couple roofs & a couple walls in the cabin...
Thanks, I bought the metal from a rancher that pulled it off an old outbuilding of his. I was considering finishing the other two sides of the cabin with board and batt but I like the tin so well I might do it all.
Great project in a cool part of the world- my wife is from SD.
I used new galvie tin on the lower exterior walls of our cabin.
I can't wait for it to weather to the point of being rusty/rustic. I was thinking there must be a process by which I could speed up the process- and then I thought... I must be nuts.
Your place looks great. Keep up the good work.
Tom
I agree, it looks realy good. to speed up the process wipe it down with muratic acid(pool supply)......or if you go to a big box store and look through their supply you might find that they left it stacked outside too long in the rain and has really started that same process early. i know the one by my house did just that and so did the next closest one. they had about 20 sheets that i would never buy if in the market for undamaged product. you might be able to talk the manager into taking out of inventory for a breatly reduced price ;D
I measured my from the floor of the loft up to 7' and then used a short 2' level to make sure they were all level...seems to have worked out...the trick will be the paneling but I think I have the answer for that: wide paneling at the spot the collar ties sit :)
Well I was able to side the front of the shack during a break in the weather. I had planned to wait until spring to finish it but a chipmunk discovered that tyvek makes good nesting material. I have learned in my experiences that a little chipmunk can be a bigger pain than a black bear. Anyways, the weather has turned cold so I have been tiling the inside getting ready to move in the woodstove.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_2144-1.jpg)
It is the damage that you don't see by pest that is disturbing. Take note of the crawlspace for voids that were not there when you initially started framing.
This summer I lost a couple of keys that I had hung on a nail hidden under my cabin. I was starting to think that I was really losing my sanity. A month later I found both keys at the base of a different trees around the cabin. One of the keys had a rubber base that had been chewed up. Talk about your gremlins ???
Quote from: mpls_ham on November 17, 2011, 05:32:26 PM
This summer I lost a couple of keys that I had hung on a nail hidden under my cabin. I was starting to think that I was really losing my sanity. A month later I found both keys at the base of a different trees around the cabin. One of the keys had a rubber base that had been chewed up. Talk about your gremlins ???
That's happening to me as well, but mine aren't rubber coated. I'm trying to come up with some sort inconspicuous but accessible container to keep them in now. Not sure if it's the chipmunks, the squirrels, birds, or Homer Simpson.
Ooooh, shiny objects!
Quote from: waggin on November 17, 2011, 09:00:54 PM
That's happening to me as well, but mine aren't rubber coated. I'm trying to come up with some sort inconspicuous but accessible container to keep them in now. Not sure if it's the chipmunks, the squirrels, birds, or Homer Simpson. Ooooh, shiny objects!
There are combo coded key holders that we use in telecom for remote sites that you can get at any lock store. Just look for the steel box that you mount on the wall with a code to punch in to open it.
Then install somewhere hidden but easy enough to punch in the code and you've got a hidden key that is safe and secure from small pests and two legged pests :)
Good idea, thanks. I already own several of them and didn't even think of using them. d* The price is right when you already own something as well. The ones I have are the doorknob/railing loop style mounting, so I'll just hang them on a nail under the deck or somewhere else that's unobtrusive but convenient.
http://www.amazon.com/AccessPoint-001406-KeySafe-Portable-Push-Button/dp/B000GTOU9C/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_3
LOL.....on the keys. thats why they call it Coon fingering. Racoons gotta touch everything, especially shiny keys. My neighbors rescued a baby coon thats a full grown pet that has to go everywhere with him and the dogs. He said she has taken his keys out of his pockets and hidden them or just left them laying around on more than a few occassions.
My latest and most enjoyable improvement has been the woodstove. It was a real bear getting it into the cabin myself. I removed the firebrick to make it lighter to move. What I did not know was that each brick was shaved to fit so it was like a chinese puzzle getting them to fit back in. A couple of hours later and I was in business.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_2191.jpg)
Here is another pic of the slider I installed last spring.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_2190.jpg)
After giving keys to visitors and misplacing others, I solved my key issue with a Schlage digital dead-bolt. This model remembers several different combinations and uses a electronic clutch. The clutch connects the outside knob to the inner unlocking mechanism. A clutch based lock uses a lot less battery power than the locks that have a motor do the work of moving the deadbolt. Its got a key override in case the battery goes completely dead.
(https://encrypted-tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT8Smpw4wkw7VjnJTn_ozDllpGf5ycMHVkyD6FW5KMOPa6-1CKh)
It has been almost a year since my last confession I thought I might add one ;) The majority of the projects were on the inside. I hauled up most of the insulation in early January before the deep snow came and put it up. I had planned on insulating the floor but I am now considering leaving it uninsulated....My woodstove heats the place up just fine without it and I am concerned that I might turn the cabin into a large sauna if I do it. Any opinions?
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_2258.jpg)
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_2257.jpg)
In the spring I did sheetrock, tape and texture. I decided to finish the remainder of the floor in ceramic tile because I wasn't able to decide on a wood floor and I wanted something bullet-proof that could handle melting snow. I worried about the tiles being colder than wood but it all warms up nicely after a couple of hours.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/002.jpg)
The next project was installing carsiding on the vaulted ceiling and I can say that was the most miserable project yet. I did it alone so there was a learning curve and the ladder climbing wore me out. But I am happy with the result and it is now officially behind me. I also trimmed out 90% of the inside. I pulled out the enclosed trailer late October (along with my all my tools) and have been spending November actually enjoying the fruits of my labor......splitting firewood and hunting. It took me a couple of weeks to relax and not contemplate what to do next.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/043.jpg)
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_0158.jpg)
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/Camp%20Hamilton/IMG_0135.jpg)
looks like our vogelzang defender. Enjoy. Ceiling looks good!
Have you segmented the cabin into rooms or just open on the main floor? I am looking to build something like that in Western WI. Maybe I will see your place from the trail while riding in Spearfish this June.
We have left it wide open. We use an outhouse; ) My work has slowed down since last year. The last 5% is a killer.
(https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af203/mpls_ham/IMG_0030_zpsc4c85545.jpg) (https://s1008.photobucket.com/user/mpls_ham/media/IMG_0030_zpsc4c85545.jpg.html)