Looking for a little brainstorming from the CP crew...having some issues with our well and trying to troubleshoot.
Background:
Went on vacation a few weeks ago and came home to a leaking hot water heater. Replaced with a new hot water heater and purged the lines per manufacturer's directions. Noticed some intermittent air in the lines (the Mrs mentioned that we had no water for a few hours) and thought the pressure regulator might be the culprit but started working fine before I could troubleshoot. Figured they system just needed to purge air to regulate and had done so.
Today:
No water! After doing chores (dishes, laundry, etc) went to get cleaned up and nothing...no water.
Checked the fuse-check. Checked pressure at the pressure tank and showed ~20#. The current pressure switch is stamped with a rating of 40psi(on)/20psi(off) which doesnt sound right to me, and does not have a trip switch. The pressure gauge at the pressure switch reads 48psi.
Open to any other thoughts/ideas.
Does the gauge actually work? My experience is that most of the hardware store gauges we buy will not last very long under pressure .... best to remove them and store disconnected, and reinstall when a reading is needed. What happens if you slowly unscrew the gauge? Does water escape, with force, as the gauge is loosened a bit?
On the pressure tank Tee there should be the pressure switch itself, (20/40 is a stock low pressure type), then pressure gauge (yes, notoriously bad when you need a reading), then a hose spigot to drain it. That spigot should be at pressure and you can set up a gauge and read off it. Is there pressure and flow at that spigot?
With a faucet open you should see the gauge drop and hear the pressure switch snap closed around 20psi and often you can hear and feel the tank being refilled. If the switch isn't closing and you know the pressure is below the cutin, open the cover and electrical meter the lines first... do you have power. if you do and if the switch is standing open carefully close the switch with something insulated. There will be a slight spark and jump, keep it closed until cutout pressure is reached, 40psi) then open a faucet and see if it will open and close on its own. There was one mountain cabin I would have to do this to every season, never did figure it out and it was an excuse to visit.
If after trying the previous.
If you can shut down the power to pressure switch, do so. Then jump the contacts with a jumper clip of #14 or 12. This will force the pump on if the contacts in the pressure switch are shot. Need to turn power back on to test.
There may be a second set of contacts if it is a 120 vac pump. good luck.
Outcome?
Feel like an absolute heel for forgetting to follow up on this... d*
After troubleshooting myself in the foot it wound up a clogged pressure switch pipe (had filled with rust after the hot water heater died). Replaced the pipe and installed a new pressure switch - voila! Well is alive and well!
A HUGE thank you to the crew here for helping me figure this one out. Sometimes the obvious is overlooked and bites you in the...well...