I am in the process of buying a 5-acre lot on a lake. I am looking for ideas on what to build. There are many ideas and options on this forum and I have spent hours reading them. I am looking for your opinions and suggestions.
Location: Alaska - No building permits etc required. Setback is 75 feet from high water. Scrub spruce and tundra. Millions of blueberries.
Access - Boat, plane and snow machine only. 2.5 Miles from boat launch/road.
Utilities - None. Carry in fresh water. Electricity from generator. Propane stove/fridge etc. Heat from either wood burning stove or fuel oil stove.
Foundation – cement pads with piers.
Preferences – Minimum 1 bedroom. Accommodations for 4 people and floorspace for a few more. General use will be 2 couples with a couple brats. 20 X 24 or so. Loft with views, small deck?
Take advantage of - View of the Wrangell Mountains and lake to the east. Northern lights to the north. Solar gain from windows for summer warmth.
Stick built with (hopefully) a bit of rustic/lodge appeal.
Your ideas please. Thanks in advance.
Yeow... what a tough question! Your possibilities are endless. Tough way to get supplies in, especially concrete and blocks! Know anybody with a barge?
That sounds a little big... how much time are you planning on spending inside? How much snow does this place get annually? Are you going to use it in the winter? If so, consider your access to the outhouse!
I am currently planning a 16X24 first floor, with an additional 12X16 front porch. Everything under one simple gable. Two lofts... one over the back half of the first floor, and the second loft over the porch. 10' walls, 6/12 pitch. No interior walls, since I am heating with a woodstove. Drapes for privacy only. A single fiberglass shell shower, a sink, RV water heater / pump and a propane fridge are the amenities. Will have a queen sized bed downstairs for me and my wife, kids and guests will get the lofts. I think I can comfortably sleep 10 in this.
I want a big porch since we get a lot of rain in July / August, and I still want to be outside.
Big dreams for now, as I am waiting to get through some property snags to make an offer... but I plan on breaking ground in July and having a shell watertight by winter.
BTW.. can I come over to visit during fishing season? :)
-f-
Hi. Frank there asked some of the same questions that popped into my mind; size, seasonal vs all year, full time vs part time, etc.
I'll add that asking what kind of cabin to build is akin to asking me what kind of 4x4 you should buy. Or what kind of rifle/handgun you should buy. The 'right' answer depends a lot on personal choices, personal needs, lifestyle, etc. I don't mean to discourage you from asking, but perhaps if you present us with some of your requirements as to size, etc. and the options you are considering, we can then toss around our ideas and reasons for them.
G/L
These plans would leave you open to do as you wish inside. This is the 1 1/2 http://www.jshow.com/y2k/listings/50.html
It also comes in 1 and 2 story flavors- they can be shortened to 24'.
Lots of folks build their small cabins to use a loft. I on the other hand have no practical use for a loft. Don't like upstairs and after living in an RV (for recreation) for many years will love to be able to sleep without being able to touch the ceiling (as in a cab over bed in a class C).
Off the top of my head, I think I would look at panelizing material and hauling it over on a log raft. I can't believe there are not other people who face similar challenges there. I am also sure there is someone who makes a living hauling supplies like this.
For the foundation, I think it might need to be a mixer and many bags of concrete....almost every building I saw go up in rural Mexico was done this way.
Here is a link from the Gallery on panelizing the frame. http://www.countryplans.com/cody.html
mt
In a situation like this I also have to ask-- what about natural building materials -- what are the natural resources? What would the natives have used to build a house?
Snow and caribou skins. :D
They had some boards from somewhere too. ??? early 1900's .... but that needed a saw mill.
http://vilda.alaska.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/cdmg11&CISOPTR=9338&REC=8&DMSCALE=100&DMWIDTH=1440&DMHEIGHT=2000
http://vilda.alaska.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/cdmg11&CISOPTR=9342&REC=12&DMSCALE=100&DMWIDTH=1440&DMHEIGHT=2000
Looks great to me, Don. :)
Quote from: MountainDon on January 01, 2008, 10:02:15 PM
Or what kind of rifle/handgun you should buy.
G/L
All of them. Especially from private parties. Stock up on reloading supplies too!
-f-
Materials need to be carried across the ice in March. I will be using a couple wheelers, a snowmachine and possibly a tracked skid steer to carry them in. I will have to carry the rest in my boat or on a dock towed by the boat. Barge is $65 per hour. Figure 3 hours minimum.
Use will be weekends and a week here and there. Summer mostly, a few weekends in the winter. More use every year due to global warming.
Local materials include: a beach with washed sand and small gravel. A few rocks. Some driftwood. There are no trees worth cutting down. Nearest lumber yard is 2 hours away.
I have gotten so tied into my initial idea that I wonder if I am missing something. Tunnel vision is not a good thing until the plans are firm.
I prefer a dual loft design like the LeMay cabin. http://www.countryplans.com/lemay.html
But I would like a bedroom on the first floor. I believe that I can get this by going 20 foot wide. My plan is to balloon frame the long sides and platform frame the ends. The platform framing on the ends would allow a small cantilevered deck on the loft floor.
The caribou skins are still wet:
The fishing is poor:
Sunsets are nasty:
Thanks for all the input!!!
Quote from: NM_Shooter on January 01, 2008, 09:55:41 PM
BTW.. can I come over to visit during fishing season? :)
-f-
Just leave my MIL in NM, cover any excess expenses due to your presence and lets go fishing.
Memorial Day until freezeup.
I spent a few years in Alamogordo.
A beach with washed sand -- I suppose you don't care for stucco?
Actually the county here just legislated that all new homes have to be fireproof on the outside so we will be into lots of stucco. I haven't seen what they ruled myself yet.
Hi
for the foundation could you use ties like the railroad? 4 8"x8" treated timbers on a bed of gravel would hold up a pier I would think? I don't know how long or how far apart? railroad ties are what 6" apart 8' long? I would feel ok with 4 6' long 12" apart timbers at all the piers, tie them togeather with stong backs and cribe up to the beam. use simpson ties and brace every which way. Guess it could blow around if the winds got big enough? Maybe drive some kind of long hold down through the ties? Lot of wood huh $$$? Maybe I'm nuts?
Mike
Quote from: glenn kangiser on January 02, 2008, 10:19:53 AM
A beach with washed sand -- I suppose you don't care for stucco?
Actually the county here just legislated that all new homes have to be fireproof on the outside so we will be into lots of stucco. I haven't seen what they ruled myself yet.
Actually, there is a new cabin on the other side of the lake with stucco. It looks VERY good. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of it (poor excuse, but I was fishin). d* If I use OSB over the studs I believe that I can stucco right over it??? ??? I believe that it would have to be sealed to prevent the ice from getting in and cracking it out. This is an avenue that I have not pursued enough yet.
I know they make stucco look like cornerstones but can you make it look rustic/lodge/log any other way? Rough surface with bear tracks?
The area is not serviced by a fire dept so any fire prevention ideas are appreciated. I believe that any fire going through would be a fast moving flash fire. I have thought about using metal siding on the back side as it is closer to the trees.
Stucco starting with the sheathing and working out ...
sheathing
building felt, some applicators say 2 layers is better
mesh, wire or plastic
scratch coat
brown coat
finish coat
A skilled applicator can render a wide variety of textures.
One of the best defense against wildfire is to maintain an area around the building free of all combustibles, grass, weeds, bushes, pile of firewood, gasoline storage, etc. One of the firefighters I've talked with called junipers bushes fire bushes. Lots of folks around here use them as decorative plants around the perimeter. Turns out they burn real good. Embers can blow in and remain hidden, but hot, for some time and fires then sometimes flare up after the fire crew has moved on.
I don't think that stucco would be my first choice (i live in a stucco house now). Too many cracks. You get deep snow against the side, some freeze / thaw cycles, and pretty soon all your stucco has turned into a gravel walkway around the house. I am considering using cement hardiboard type siding, or a metal siding for longevity and fire resistance.
-f-
P.S. Nice fish!
Stucco can crack but done right- won't fall off. Also -- it does not have to have sheating if you brace it some other way. Use stucco lathe - chicken wire with pre-attached paper backing - for wet areas you may want to put 15 lb felt behind it. Hauls easy on a boat or sled -
Fiber Mesh can reinforce it. Nylon netting can reinforce it - such as used for a ladies can-can dress per this dude.
http://www.texasmusicforge.com/gimmeshelter.html
Sand is already there so some screen for removing rocks -- bags of cement -- extra chicken wire if you want extra strong stucco such as a lower section where snow may build up-- see ferrocement info in the above link. That could cut down on the load and cost of materials. Shapes and decoration with stucco are only limited by your imagination. It was invented by the Romans a couple thousand years ago and some of it from that time period is still standing if I recall correctly.
http://www.geocities.com/flyingconcrete/
Lets get back to the "what would you build" idea.
If you had:
5 acres lakefront on a large lake
15K or less to spend the first year. Goal is to get it dryed in (+/-minus siding)
No septic
No electricity except generator
No gas
Wood, propane or fuel oil heat
Carry in potable water, lake water is near potable and good for washing dishes/showers.
Only real available materials at hand are a sand and gravel beach that replenishes itself (for my concrete pads).
Temperatures range from 75 mid-summer to -30 mid-winter.
Used as a weekend retreat for 1 married couple usually with another couple and a couple young adults. Mostly in summer with a few weekends in the warmer winter months.
Prefer something that enhances the experience. Fishing spot in the summer and northern lights viewing/ice fishing in the winter.
Due to time constraints must be stick built (no log).
I am asking because I am stuck in a bit of a rut. I have an idea, but cannot get it through to a set of plans.
Thanks,
Mike
Considering the work you have to go to to do this - your original 20' wide desire - flexible space until you are decided on a floor plan, stick built, I would go with the single story 20' wide -- lofts for extras and adjust length plus or minus as necessary. Width needs to stay the same for loads and simplicity.
http://www.countryplans.com/20wide.html
The plans are pretty well able to be modified inside any way you choose.
Here is where I am currently in my model. I have to use a pier foundation. But have not ironed out all the details. Here is the floor. I plan to use BCI's. Blocked in the middle and ends, insulated, bottom covered with thin treated plywood, top is plywood T&G.
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Dirtofak/CABIN%20MODEL/FLOORJOIST3.jpg)
2X6x12' high side walls. 8' end walls.
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Dirtofak/CABIN%20MODEL/WALL3B.jpg)
Frame in the loft supports to assist with side wall strength.
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Dirtofak/CABIN%20MODEL/AFTLOFTBEAM.jpg)
Build loft.
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Dirtofak/CABIN%20MODEL/AFTLOFTBACK.jpg)
Are there any problems with this design so far? It is basically a LeMay with platform instead of balloon on the end walls (and 20 wide). I have not put any windows or doors in yet. I just formulated a floorplan last night.
It appears that a 7/10 roof would be about right. It would give me about 6 foot wide headroom in the loft. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Mike
Quote from: lonelytree on January 04, 2008, 11:40:30 PM
Here is where I am currently in my model.
Model... as in scale model? That's some project :) . Half scale? 1x material?
I've gotta say I've never seen anybody do that.
Pretty fancy.
The plot thickens... There's some photographic perspective tomfoolery going on here. Have a look at this blow up of a corner of the first picture and tell me that isn't a carpenters pencil. I'll bet tomorrows lunch that's balsa wood framing. And mighty fine work to boot.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends2/modelFLOORJOIST3zoom.jpg)
And the 'panel lines' in the second photo are penciled in. [cool] very cool!
Do you / did you, build model aircraft or boats?
Spenard Builders has one of their Yukon cabin in the remote sales office off of Minnesota in Anchorage.
1" = 1'
So my 2X6's are just under 1/2"
I cheat.... hot glue gun.
Since it is over 3 hours away (plus a boat ride) and missing parts may waste a weekend for several people, I am doing load lists to make sure that I have the tools and materials needed for each stage (and backup plans for generators etc). I also am trying to prefab anything that I can.
The balloon framing on the ends is so I can cantilever a small deck if I decide to.
My brain is starting to hurt. At least I have a floorplan in my head now.
Thanks!
Mike
You can save some on site time by cutting parts to correct length before transporting them to the site. Good thinking especially for working in so remote a place.
Quote from: MountainDon on January 05, 2008, 02:02:25 AM
The plot thickens... There's some photographic perspective tomfoolery going on here. Have a look at this blow up of a corner of the first picture and tell me that isn't a carpenters pencil. I'll bet tomorrows lunch that's balsa wood framing. And mighty fine work to boot.
And the 'panel lines' in the second photo are penciled in. [cool] very cool!
Do you / did you, build model aircraft or boats?
Sorry Don, but the boss is buying lunch tomorrow. It is ripped down 2X material. I am too cheap to buy balsa. My buddy says I squeek when I walk. I used a nice pen to draw in the flooring. It makes it easier to count materials.
I have not built a model anything since those little plastic kit cars (snap together) when I was a pup.
The cabin will be built near behind and left or right of the little cabin pictured here.
Thanks!
Mike
Quote from: lonelytree on January 05, 2008, 02:23:25 AMIt is ripped down 2X material.
That would explain the couple of flaws I saw in a couple places... couldn't reconcile that with balsa. (old aircraft builder here)
Lonelytree, we finished the 10 X 14 little house from this site. Same type of location in Alaska. We had the lumber barged down river and then we pulled it up a 80' bluff to get started. This one is serving as a temporary hideout while we build the 1-1/2 story cabin on this site as well. We are going to stretch it a bit to 30'. We have decided to bring all the materials in via snowmobile this winter rather than repeat the barge scenario. No real reason, it just gets our material in three months earlier than the river and snow access is easier from the backside. (no bluff) Post and Pier design also from this site. We will be sandpointing a well this next summer and use it for our water needs. At present we haul water in or pump it from the river and filter it before using.
This site is awesome. Any question I have ever had has been answered here.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/22535088@N06/
Kev
[cool] site
Had you considered air lifting the materials. ;D
I admire you guys building in these remote locations. It's hard enough building 200' from the hiway.
There's a couple, Aaron and Jill, who built a remote cabin in Alaska with lots of the same challenges you're talking about. Here's the link: http://www.alaskaantlerworks.com/Alaska_cabin.htm (http://www.alaskaantlerworks.com/Alaska_cabin.htm).
I think I first ran into that site as a link from here. It's a very inspirational story. I've had a lot of tools in my tool belt, but never a bear pistol.
That is a cool Alaskan story.
We took to wearing a revolver &/or keeping the 45-70 close by this past fall as the bears were rambling about looking for anything they could get at to eat before winter.
Bears, what bears.... I just need to find out what is making these tracks on my beach.
Drew
Borks place is truely an Alaskan achievement. Maybe in 20 years, after I retire, I can afford the time to build such a fine piece of art. Until then I have to stick build.
Kev,
Su or Yentna? I have spent a few hours nearby. I know a couple places on Kroto for pike and have even made it into Flathorn once. Only got stuck in duckbutter for about an hour. Talk about a shallow 1/2 mile. I got tired of paying 27.50 to launch. For a bit more, I can go a little farther, have the lake almost to myself and see more wildlife. The fishing isn't bad either.
I agree with taking the materials in in the winter. I was told to lay pallets down, run rope or straps through them, lay down tarp or plastic, fill it with materials, wrap and tie it up. Big blue burritos.
I am going up end of Jan to scout a bit, fish a bit and see if my wheeler will pull a meat trailer across the lake. I only have access to one snow machine and it is a short track 500. It is a bit hard to comprehend carrying 15000 pounds in. I don't want to ruin my boat hauling in materials. It is only 2 years old.
Don,
After this winter, I am more worried about wolves getting at my lab. If there is not much more snow, the wolves will be very hungry. They are attacking dogs all over. I still don't know what to expect when the heard of caribou crosses the lake. There are usually some BIG bears following the herds.
Mike
Helicoptering the material is was quoted at approximately $6K. I paid off my Skandic and bought a trailer for less than that. Doing it during the summer was much higher due to most of the choppers being on contract for fire response.
We are on the Su due west of Nancy Lake. We try to spend about a 100 days a year on the river, so being an annual passholder at the landing makes sense for us.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2197/2173133845_1b340a86b1.jpg?v=0)
Last visitor my wife had while we were out getting supplies.
Here is our Project on Red Shirt Lake in the Nancy Lake State Recreation Area. Hauled in via snowmobile. It is John's 20x30 x 1 1/2
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=7701&l=0b01b&id=673692405
That was a couple good loads. How packed was the snow? Distance?
Quote from: kenhill on January 07, 2008, 03:34:59 PM
Here is our Project on Red Shirt Lake in the Nancy Lake State Recreation Area. Hauled in via snowmobile. It is John's 20x30 x 1 1/2
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=7701&l=0b01b&id=673692405
Thanks for the pics!!
This is very close to what I will be doing. I may shorten to 20 X 28 or even 24 depending on a few things. I will also have to use concrete pads as I cannot set footings.
What was the side wall height and roof pitch to get that clearance for the loft?
Did you make the adjustable beam ties or buy them?
Thanks again!!
Mike
After looking at Ken Hills place I am wondering about the placement of the cabin. If I put the short side to the lake, it will not require a cover for rain or snow. If I place the long side to the lake, it will require some sort of awning/porch etc to shed the rain/snow so that it is not dripping/falling directly on the doorway. The land does not facilitate turning the cabin sideways like Kens. It needs to make its presence either shortwall or longwall along the lakefront. I prefer a 8 X 12 or so deck. I do not presently want to add a full (long side) front porch.
I noticed that he had split pier beams. Maybe 2 15 foot long 4 X 12's? How can a person tie them together for strength? It would be alot easier to move 4 20 foot beams than 2 30 foot beams and then have to add for a deck. I have a possible source for beams that are reclaimed from a mall that was torn down (cheap).
I ordered the 20 X 30 1-1/2 story plans and hope to modify them just a bit. I really like the split loft idea. I hope to implement it with a small 4 X 10 deck on the second story (aft side). Possibly a shed dormer on the aft north loft and a 2 foot cantilever off the 1st floor bedroom.
Since I may use a woodburning stove. What if I put it in a short 1-1/2 cantilever? THis would put the weight more directly on the beams and shorten the length of the through the wall piping. It would make for a distinct cove that I could maybe river rock in with a mantle.
Thanks,
Mike
I bought the adjustable beam ties from Friesen's cabins http://www.friesenscustomcabins.com/. The wall height followed John's 20x30 1 1/2 plans, can't remember exact details, but it is around 10-11 feet high.
The 14 mile trail to Red Shirt is well used, packed, flat, and groomed. The difficultly was getting the material up the hill at the construction site. Sometimes we would have to break the trail up the hill with just the snowmachines and let it set up overnight. Even then, we would unload half the material on the lake and make 2 trips up the hill. Used a Bearcat 570 and 2 1994 Cheetah 340's to do the hauling along with an Equinox Brute sled that could hold an amazing amount of material. Get lots of friends to help and it goes fast.
I also learned, first build the outhouse, storeage shed, and then the cabin!
We often make the trip through the big swamp to the Su to the Yentna and out at Yentna Landing. Lots of unmarked trails to explore.
If the fishing is always that good I think posting pictures of the fish and promising to take people fishing would result in lots of volunteers to help you build.
I got hungry looking at that picture
Quote from: benevolance on January 14, 2008, 04:46:35 AM
If the fishing is always that good I think posting pictures of the fish and promising to take people fishing would result in lots of volunteers to help you build.
I got hungry looking at that picture
Lake trout are kind of a pain. They will hit for 30 minutes then turn off. It took almost all summer to get where we hit them regularly. The last 30 minutes were AWESOME! 3 guys in the boat, a fish on almost the entire time. 3 doubles!!
I love it, I can sit and troll for 2 hours drinking coffee and eating (maybe even take a nap) then all heck breaks loose and we would get 2-5 fish in 30 minutes.
I do have plenty of volunteers. A couple builders, a couple workers and at least one slacker.
Yo Mike, sign me up for the slacker crew.
A brother and I drove a '56 VW (36HP) up the Alcan Highway in '66 (1500 miles of gravel then), and spent the summer camping north of Anchorage. Lots of evidence of the '64 earthquake still visible in Anchorage, and before the oil boom. Imagine it has changed dramatically. I'm originally from MN, so know you'll be swatting as many skeeters with your hammer as nails next summer. Look forward to your pics as you progress.
Steve
Quote from: Woodswalker on January 18, 2008, 09:40:58 PM
Yo Mike, sign me up for the slacker crew.
A brother and I drove a '56 VW (36HP) up the Alcan Highway in '66 (1500 miles of gravel then), and spent the summer camping north of Anchorage. Lots of evidence of the '64 earthquake still visible in Anchorage, and before the oil boom. Imagine it has changed dramatically. I'm originally from MN, so know you'll be swatting as many skeeters with your hammer as nails next summer. Look forward to your pics as you progress.
Steve
I am looking for a battery powered skeeter magnet (cheap). If not I will purchase a new one in the spring. I cannot afford to lose too much time due to weather and critters. We only had a couple days of skeeters last summer and they were not really as bad as I have seen in other areas.
You might like being a slacker on my project. 3 meals, free beer in the evening and slackers get to take the workers fishing in shifts. My slacker buddy is more of an inspector than a worker bee. Whenever he shows up, work stops and everything gets analyzed. I can't be having that too much. I will get him to run materials to/from the boat launch and have him take people fishing.
Mike
seems like you have a pretty good system in place there.... delegation is a great skill....I would like to work on that myself except I am not very friendly and people tend to stay away from me....I work them too long and hard and they never come back.....
i always figured you make hay when the sun is shining sort of thing...When there are extra hands you need to put em to good use and get r done
Fortunately, most of the people that are going are long term friends. I can throw a box of donuts and a thermos of coffee at them and get them to willingly push the boat away from shore as I warm the engine. They appreciate the experience and don't need much coddling.
A couple nights before we head up with a work party, I plan to have a pizza feast at the house. I will go over what needs to be done, how it needs to be done and what I need them to provide. I assisted in a 30 X 40 garage a couple years ago. There were too many cowboys and not enough superivsion or experience. When it came time to sheet it, I found several studs that needed to be moved etc..... It was MUCH worse when I tried to sheetrock it. Lets just say that "it looks good from the road". I did not lay anything out, I just provided a weak back and a bit of humor.
I bought the 1-1/2 story plans and am getting quotes. I wish I had purchased the lot and had it paid for. I need to close by mid-march but am short a bit to pay cash for the land. If I do pay cash for the land, I will have to wait for materials... and so on.... I talked to "a lending institute" and the loan that I was offered was outrageous. 35K on 25 years, 368 per month, INTEREST ONLY for the first 15 years, then it would be applied to the principle. I asked the lady if there was anyone with a credit rating above 750 that was stupid enough to take out one of their loans. She said it is VERY popular. When I asked for 35K on 8 years, she said thay don't do loans like that. No wonder there are so many people in credit trouble.
After reading the Red Shirt Lake cabin progress. I find that I may do what he suggests. Build an outhouse, shed and repair the cabin that is on the lot this summer. If I can do that AND get the foundation done, I can make better progress in 2009 on the cabin. Building season starts about Memorial Day and ends mid to late-October. Kind of short when you are working too many hours anyway.
Have you checked to see if the seller will owner-finance if you've got cash for most of the cost? Heck, they might take a significantly lower selling price if you walk up with a breifcase of cash... Just like in the lending arena, people are crazy when it comes to money and will do things that aren't always rational.
I do think spending the time to do it right and not be rushed would be time well spent, even if it is a bit of a let down to put off the building. Then you've also got more time to collect building supplies (windows, heaters, etc) on sale or second hand.
I don't plan to move any farther North than Haines, AK at the most...brave people! Best of luck!
Quote from: lonelytree on January 21, 2008, 10:47:16 PM
Fortunately, most of the people that are going are long term friends. I can throw a box of donuts and a thermos of coffee at them and get them to willingly push the boat away from shore as I warm the engine. They appreciate the experience and don't need much coddling.
A couple nights before we head up with a work party, I plan to have a pizza feast at the house. I will go over what needs to be done, how it needs to be done and what I need them to provide. I assisted in a 30 X 40 garage a couple years ago. There were too many cowboys and not enough superivsion or experience. When it came time to sheet it, I found several studs that needed to be moved etc..... It was MUCH worse when I tried to sheetrock it. Lets just say that "it looks good from the road". I did not lay anything out, I just provided a weak back and a bit of humor.
I bought the 1-1/2 story plans and am getting quotes. I wish I had purchased the lot and had it paid for. I need to close by mid-march but am short a bit to pay cash for the land. If I do pay cash for the land, I will have to wait for materials... and so on.... I talked to "a lending institute" and the loan that I was offered was outrageous. 35K on 25 years, 368 per month, INTEREST ONLY for the first 15 years, then it would be applied to the principle. I asked the lady if there was anyone with a credit rating above 750 that was stupid enough to take out one of their loans. She said it is VERY popular. When I asked for 35K on 8 years, she said thay don't do loans like that. No wonder there are so many people in credit trouble.
After reading the Red Shirt Lake cabin progress. I find that I may do what he suggests. Build an outhouse, shed and repair the cabin that is on the lot this summer. If I can do that AND get the foundation done, I can make better progress in 2009 on the cabin. Building season starts about Memorial Day and ends mid to late-October. Kind of short when you are working too many hours anyway.
That loan they offerd you is a JOKE!! That is over $66,000.00 in instrust before you can pay princible on a 35K loan! Then you still get to pay instrust on a 35K loan after that??? For those kind of payments on a place just to spend a week end or two a year at I would put the money in a account and save it for say 8 months=$2,944.00 and rent the nices place in alaska for 2 weeks! I WOULD NEVER TIE UP THAT KIND OF MONEY ON FOREVER PAYMENTS JUST TO VACATION A COUPLE WEEKS A YEAR. I would only go the pay as I could plan and try to pay cash for the land and go the build as you can afford method. You can allway finace thru credit cards a dried in shell and then pay that off in a year or so. Paying a instrest only loan is paying nothing at all except the right to put off princible payments that pays the loan off. I would sell a extra car, anything to come up with the extra money cause those things are easy to replace later and not realy needed. A dried in shell is cheap compaired to finishing the insides but it gives you a space to stay in camping and lets you finish the rest as you can. If you have a loan on the land you may be handcuffed to there regulations on what is done and how it is done, insurance is one of them! A bank loan on the building may require you also to do things there way this is one thing you beat using a credit card for materials or cash advance. You just need to realy pay these off fast with extra payments to save the extra cost involved doing it that way. Anyway you look at it the instrust only loan is a total loss of money!! Mark
Ltree, that is basically what we did. Dried in the little cabin quickly, outhouse next with the shed just before the river got too low to navigate. Now we have a warm dry place to snowmobile, a shed for all my goodies and can concentrate this summer on the clearing and foundation for the big cabin. If we get further along than we anticipate, we will barge in materials to get going on the walls and roofing. I also have the 1-1/2 story plans and have quotes in place. I am going to make my changes and requote things soon.
Quote from: kev_alaska on January 23, 2008, 07:37:35 PM
Ltree, that is basically what we did. Dried in the little cabin quickly, outhouse next with the shed just before the river got too low to navigate. Now we have a warm dry place to snowmobile, a shed for all my goodies and can concentrate this summer on the clearing and foundation for the big cabin. If we get further along than we anticipate, we will barge in materials to get going on the walls and roofing. I also have the 1-1/2 story plans and have quotes in place. I am going to make my changes and requote things soon.
That is sorta what I am doing on my cabin I will build as soon as the snow is gone. I paid cash for the land and will use a Zero Instrust Credit Card to build the shell fast. Then pay off the card before I lose the no instrust on it when fire season starts. I need to build the cabin fast so I can be ready to fight fires a few months later. I have lots of spare time in the spring/fall/winter but none in the summer months due to fires and needing to go to them any time I get called out. I bought all the plywood while it was cheap this winter and storing for spring use. Mark
Thanks for all the input!
I need to get out and measure this cabin that is currently standing on the property. It has just been too cold. Does anyone have a "best guess" as to the size of it? I would believe 12 X 12 or just a shade bigger? ???
I would love to reclaim it and use it. I can use my craigslist windows, scrounged materials and rebuild it for about $2-3000. Then I would have a warm dry place to stay while building the big cabin. Since it is grandfathered into the property I can "possibly" keep it where it stands. All new construction has to be 75 feet from the high water mark. Google Earth says that is is about 24' from the shoreline.
If I can rebuild it as a 12 X 12 and put a couple kickouts on it (and possibly loft), I should be able to have a nice little mackinaw camp. I believe that the cabin would have to have the same ground measurements as the original.
I'd say that if you want to retain its present location you should check with the county/bldg dept/whoever is in charge of those regs... to see how extensive the renovations can be. They probably have a rule about that. ???
The good.
The land purchase is in progress. A quit claim deed and escrow. I hope to close in the next week.
The better
I found 2X5X12' T&G flooring marked down from $15.75 to $3.00 at Lowes. I got all the 12 footers that they had (157). A buddy got all the 16'ers so I have a bit of backup if needed. There is about a 15% cull though.
The best.
I got with the Code Compliance people for where I am planning to build. There was a question about high water level. A little history: The area that I am building is a chain of 3 lakes. I am building on the first one. The channel to the second lake is shallow. In the 70's someone tried to deepen the channel with explosives. It didn't work. The high water level dropped the lake by a foot and a half. Because the water in front was very shallow, it is now exposed. I was extremely worried that I was going to have to go by the old high water mark. A couple pics to assist with my poor writing skills:
Notice where the girl is standing and that the cabin is well over the 75' setback ( I will leave a substantial safety zone). :) [cool] That means that I can do whatever I want (as long as it is 75') from the new high water mark. When I was walking the property last fall, I noticed that the best building location appeared to be where the current cabin is standing. Highest, dryest and best view.
The bad.....
I found out how much weight I am looking at moving.
Land is bought. Warranty deed in my hands!
I have been scrounging off of Craigslist and have a couple nice windows and the JCI's for the floor.
I bought a coot to help carry materials from the beach to the building site and act as a small pickup truck at the property. I had to rebuild the torque dividers and repair a few things.
Planning to carry materials in next week.
In 6 weeks, building will commence if the lake is open. May is unsafe for boats, snowmachines or wheelers. Airboats only.
Help please....
I bought JCI's for the floor and when I went to pick them up they are 9-1/2" 210 series instead of 11-7/8 210 series.
For a 20' X 24' can I make these work?
9-1/2 - 3-1/2 - 214" - 3-1/2 - 9-1/2
Cant - Beam - Span - Beam - Cantilever
L/450 Live Load Deflection, on 12" it says 17' 3" span @ 40PSF Live Load / 10PSF
Dead Load......
L/360 Live Load Deflection on 12"19'1" @ 40PSF Live Load / 10PSF
I have beams and cement already out there that would
be well under spec for the 11-7/8 JCI's....... I don't
want to haul (OR MIX) any more cement. I don't want
springy floors either.....
Thanks,
Mike
I guess there is not a way to make them work. At least the guy will give me my deposit back.
Simpson CB66 brackets.
In this thread:
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3403.msg36910#msg36910
It is mentioned that the CB66 brackets might work for a small cabin.
What are your ideas for a 20 X 24 utilizing 5 down each side and one in the middle front and rear? The pads are going to be 30"X30".
Beam - Will a 4X12 pressure treated beam work with the posts at 70.5"?
Thanks,
Mike
I see you bought the 20x30 1.5 plan. I would just use the foundation for it and shorten it to 24', using the piers and beams as designed for it. Anything that is not per plan would require redesign - possible check out by an architect or engineer.
CB 66 are for a 6"x6" post.
What beam size do the 20 x 30 1.5 plans call for?
Sorry, Don. I was being lazy and didn't go get the plans out.
5.125 x 9" glu-lam or three 2x12's built up #2DF and two 1/2 cdx plywood strips totalling 5 1/2 inches wide. Glue and nail as a single unit - offset joints min 4'
Sounds like those can have the support posts placed 8 feet on center.
???
They are shown at 7'6" centers. 10' on ends
BCI's.
I have been looking at the plans and do not see whether I can cantilever the BCIs. Is it possible or do I have to implement a full beam around the outside edge? If possible, any pics?
I have 25 11-7/8 BCIs and full rim joist in the garage. 20X24 with the BCIs on 12" centers.
Thanks,
Mike
I haven't used them as I do mostly steel work, although see other trades using them on projects I am on sometimes.
This may be of interest to you.
QuoteBCI blocking panels or x-bracing are required at cantilever supports.
Below are non-load bearing cantilever details so I assume there are critical load bearing details also.
http://www.wsitruss.com/ewp25.asp
http://www.wsitruss.com/ewp07.asp
Got more.
QuoteREINFORCEMENT REQUIREMENTS
* BCI joists may be cantilevered up to a maximum of 2'-0" when supporting roof loads, but may need reinforcement. The tables and details on this page indicate the type of reinforcement required, if any.
(http://www.aecinfo.com/1/resourcefile/00/22/89/bcwspe23a.gif)
http://www.aecinfo.com/1/resourcefile/00/22/89/bcwspe23.htm
(http://www.aecinfo.com/1/resourcefile/00/22/89/bcwspe23b.gif)
Thanks for all the inputs thus far. I do appreciate your time.
The lake finally went out on June 5th. We made our first trip in VIA boat for the summer. First thing was to haul in abut 2500 pounds of materials and a wheeler to haul them from the beach to the building site.
While the crew was freighting materials in, I was pulling trees and measuring up the area. I had to make absolutely sure that I had a 75 foot setback from high water mark.
Here is the beginning of tree removal.
This is the view that I will have from my front porch.
We only fished for 2 hours but got 2 nice lakers.
Unfortunately the rest of the pics are on another camera........
Looks like it will be interesting and good fishing too.
If anyone has any ideas on how to do a foundation on TOP of the ground, I could use the help. I talked with a couple guys that have been out there for many years and they are totally against removing the ground cover. They say to put down a wood pad and crib up. How do I get a solid base when cribbing? I need to get the front up about 4 feet above the current ground cover due to a rise at the back corner of the site. Will a concrete block pier work?
I think I'd use rail road ties - set on gravel for drainage if you can. PT posts up from there with as big a 45 degree angle braces as you can. Use Rebar to make giant spikes - drill a 1/2 inch hole for 1/2 inch rebar. I use a 16" ship auger in a heavy duty 1/2 inch drill.
Sounds like they are talking about working with soft ground (when thawed) and you want all the base you can get.
This is just my thoughts of what it sounds like they are getting at -- no guarantees.
Glen's idea is how we did ours in the valley. No railroad ties on the little one, but gravel underneath paver blocks with precast piers on top. The Friesen adjustable brackets and you should be good to go. 4' off the ground gives you plenty of space for insulating as well.
For our big cabin, we have been clearing trees as well. Unless I figure out a way to get a small dozer in, the stumps will be my limiting factor. I may also get to place the cabin foundation 2'-4' feet above the stump carnage.
Kev and Glenn have good suggestions. You're basically floating your foundation on what would be considered non-structural fill anywhere else in the world. But, you work with what you have. ;)
The more you can spread out the point loads (with timbers or a gravel base) the more solid the support you will get from the questionable soil.
I would also spend some time thinking about how to easily re-level your building. This might mean making brackets that could be unbolted or otherwise adjusted as differential settlement and frost heave work on your foundation.
I'm posting on this thread because of the title.
I found out that the HOA where I intend to build in Hawaii has a rule that a house has to be at least 880 square feet. I keep waffling between the grandfather's cottage and the big enchilada plans. DH has same dilemma. The reason is, we don't know which will be the easiest to add a bedroom or two afterwards.
The GC looks great but seems a bit too definitive in terms of layout. The other plans seem good but I like the look of the GC better.
By the way, I'm still in CA, should I buy the plans while still here? Will shipping cost a lot more to Hawaii?
--maaggie
I messaged John - Maybe he can tell you better, maggie.
Maggie:
The Grandfather Cottage could be easily extended to the left hand side of the plan. This could add a couple of extra rooms and another bath if desired.
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/ghextended.png)
All I did here was copy a section of the existing plan and move it over about 20' but you get the idea. I expect you could find a better layout than this for the rooms. :D
None of the interior walls are load bearing. I think the scale of the GC will probably work better for an extension of this size than the 14' Builder's Cottage would. It has a more family sized kitchen, dining and bath/utility room.
As far as shipping costs for the plans, they are the same to CA or HI (via Priority mail).
John thank you so much for the preview! :) I really hope I'll have no problems with getting a building permit with those plans. Hawaii is more lax than CA but not as lax as AK...
We got this from a Hawaiian realtor who sounds really nice:
QuoteBuilding permits are very cheap and easy to get compared to CA. However, some people have a wild west attitude and feel the county doesn't need to know what they are building on their land, or their unlicensed contractor buddy helped them build a house and it failed county inspection. So it is "permited but not finaled." Yes, unpermitted or unfinaled structures are about 25% cheaper. But a bank won't touch it with loan, and it might be uninsurable as well. You are generally better off starting with land and getting a construction loan than to take over someone's building mistakes.
I have to check which lot someone cleared and put in septic. Usually someone starts a project thinking they can build real cheap and they run out of money and then try to sell it.
--maggie
Let someone local help you with this permitting process. In many places you need the help and "heads up" from someone who knows the local particulars. See the "Taking your plans to the Building Dept." overview that comes with the plans.
Thanks again, John!! I wonder if the GC can be built for $10,000. I think the house itself might be possible...just not the plumbing, wiring, and interior cabinetry...thought??
--maggie
I don't know lumber prices there, Maggie, but that is close to the cost some have listed on materials for a similar to larger shell. Shop carefully and find bargains if possible
Maggie I doubt it (shell) can be done for less than $15k
Been a while. Here are some updated pics.
Shed, 8X8. Storage and bunkhouse. It costs less than half to drive up without my cabover or trailer. Sleeps 3 comfortably. Fully insulated and OSBed interior. Lights, outlets, and coffee pot.
First beam.
Pier setup.
More beams.
Corner looking at lake.
More piers and beams.
I have 4 more piers and a cross beam at 8 foot to do this weekend. It is all still loose and requires squared, leveled and racked. As it sets it is only 1/4 inch out on diagonal measurement. I plan to use a water level for level. It will continue to move a bit until the pads seat and my diagonal bracing is done.
Random pic of the week.
Fish TV.... works!!
If anyone has ideas on diagonal bracing, I am open to them. Piers are 5-1/2 X 5-1/2 and the beams are 3-1/2 X 11. I have a nice supply of 3/16 X 4" strap. Thanks!
Mike
I'd probably 45 some of the 3x material and temp nail maybe lag or through bolt and strap it at both ends. Depends on what is available for me.
I was thinking of some salvaged galvanized utility pole crossarm bracing with lag screws.
Lonelytree,
Looks like you have been busy. I have a couple questions:
What are the footings made out of? Is that cement the wooden pads are sitting on?
Are the wooden footing pads treated?
What is the span between your posts?
Hmmm, I replied last night & I don't see it here... [noidea'
Anyway, was commenting on the massive piers/foundation - had no idea it was so big until I saw the person standing next to it!
Gorgeous country - nice lake & boat 8)
Quote from: TheWire on August 06, 2008, 12:53:09 AM
Lonelytree,
Looks like you have been busy. I have a couple questions:
What are the footings made out of? Is that cement the wooden pads are sitting on?
Are the wooden footing pads treated?
What is the span between your posts?
Sorry to respond so late. Busy summer with work and weekends at the lake.
The pads sit on a sand/gravel mix. Straight from the beach. I was told be the old timers that pouring cement was a fools mission.
The pads are treated. I believe they are known as direct ground contact, .4.
Mike
I have thought about that quite a few times. The cement is only as strong as the ground around it. That's why I do so much of setting anchors into the rocks in the ground and setting the post here on rocks. Not everyone has the same conditions though.
Progress is slow.....
I started putting slab and grab siding on the shed.
The old cabin is almost gone. 2 days of burning and one to go. BCIs and flooring stored for the winter. First 8 feet decked with 2X6 PT.
Piers. Front and 8 foot back. The front wall will sit on the 8 foot back one. Back wall on back one. BCIs on 12" centers. Actual cabin is 20 wide X 24 long.
Old floor in the cabin. What a pain to clean up. 2 days..... I still have a big pile to burn.
The area looks a lot better. The view will be pretty good. I will need to clear a few more trees, but want to wait until I get a better idea of which ones to drop.
Fishing has been very slow... 12 pounder. Yes, that is a digital scale. I really want to break 20 pounds this year.
Before winter:
3 more piers.
Beams for arctic entry.
Steps.
Burn the rest of the old cabin.
Carry in more insulation and the lower BCI plywood.
Dig a hole for the outhouse.
Then I can spend all winter getting ready to raise walls and designing the actual cabin.
Mike
P.S. Suggestions always welcome.
Hi I am in a somewhat similar situation. No power and no road to my site, so I have to carry all my materials down. its not that far about 75 yards, but a couple hundred bags of cement gets heavy. Anyway I am bldg a 20x 24 foot cabin with 2nd floor. I used cement piers with 3 ( 6x6x26) girders. I was planning a balloon construction wall, but the bldg store talked me out of it saying that the bldg code/ (inspectors) didn't like the balloon method because of the snow load. I am bldg this in northern Ontario, Canada, so they were worried about the walls spreading with the weight of the snow. They talked me into Trusses which included a second floor( sort of) the upstairs is about 12-13W x 24L x 8'H which is plenty of room (enough for 2 small bedrms.).
Balloon is stronger than platform but does not remove the outward forces like trusses. You can use the semi-balloon with trusses.
Thanks for the photos and project updates. Quite an inspiring story. I'm sure if it were easy to do we could put together a great weekend of volunteers from the forum to help you get the place buttoned up for the winter. :D
that would be fun...
I am still a bit concerned about trusses. I like the ones in Johns plans and they appear to be fine for my use. Since I shortened the plan to 24 feet and I plan to have a 12' loft I don't see too much push out on the walls. That is a question that I was planning to ask this winter as I get further along.
Fun? It appears that they expect snow by mid next week. I may lose another weekend out there. Good thing that I gave up on specific goals and just try to get what I can done. Last year the BEST fishing was end of Sept.... Maybe this weekend will repeat.
I would bet that even a couple of the people here could build faster than I could freight the materials in.
I still have to get my boat back, winterize it and haul it to storage.
The site built trusses in the 1-1/2 story plans (http://www.jshow.com/y2k/listings/50.html) you have will take care of the outward forces on the walls, especially if they are balloon framed as suggested. In the open cathedral section you could do the timber cross tie cathedral ceiling option in the booklet. Those ties every 4' stabilize the forces when the ceiling is open. If you have a specific plan question you can ask it in the Plan Support section.
I would consider a propane powered generator to go along with your propane stove and refridgerator. Propane can be stored indefinitly without "going bad". And you will need to transport only one form of fuel. You could also install a back up propane heater or two in case you needed them in a bind.
I plan to use a wood burning stove for heat, a propane system with 2 grill bottles for the cook stove and possibly an on demand water heater (or a RV tank type), and my 1700W generator for a microwave, ceiling fans and lighting. I will have a small dorm type refridgerator, but it will only be used a couple times a year. A cooler will suffice for weekends. Basically a cabover camper or class C for utilities.
The future will bring on a bank of 6V batteries that are charged with a generator.
The main objective of this cabin is to spend weekends in the woods and not spend alot of money doing it. I get almost 22 MPG without my camper on and 13 with it on. 9MPG is alot with diesel prices this high.
Cabins are going up all over the lake. The new airstrip is done. I just hope it is not going to become too popular and that people will catch and release the fish.
Quote from: lonelytree on October 19, 2008, 03:20:44 PM
The future will bring on a bank of 6V batteries that are charged with a generator.
That works, sort of. The problems arise when you are away from the site for extended periods and the batteries slowly self discharge. That creates longevity problems. At the very least I'd recommend a small solar panel, sized to keep the batteries fully charged.
Even better would be a panel array large enough to recharge the batteries between uses. If the use is primarily on weekends, a couple days at a time, a small array could be enough to greatly reduce generator run times. We have not yet installed our PV array and equipment and I can tell you running the generator to replenish the batteries gets to be a bother after a while. Not to mention the fuel being used... remember to calculate that when figuring how much is saved by not dragging the camper around.
As for hot water check out the flow rate reuired before the unit kicks on. As well, size out the propane flow requirements; sometimes this is greater than small propane tanks can provide. Higher BTU appliances frequently require the use of a minimum size of a 100 gallon tank. High use with a small tank can lead to icing problems. I like the use of an RV water heater. Left to sit there with the pilot light on (burner off, pilot only), with low to moderate use, we find we have enough hot water for the two of us. That's most of the year, when the ingoing water temp falls as it does this time of year the recovery time is much slower than in summer.
Thanks Don.
I figure for the first year or 2 I will have to run a generator at least 4-6 hours a day to finish out the cabin. After that I will look at the possibility of solar panels. Maybe the price will even come down a bit.
The guy I bought the land from has spent the last 20 years setting his place up and knows what works. He has backups to his backups. Him and his wife spend 6-7 months a year full time on the lake. I will try to get some pictures of his setup.
I really want to stick with propane for the stove and water heater. The cabin will have to be winterized like an RV in the winter. I hope to use drain lines on everything so I don't have to use antifreeze. It gets very cold up there. Propane will not work in the smaller bottles. I can heat water over the wood burning stove for washing etc.
Quote from: lonelytree on October 20, 2008, 09:34:02 PM
I figure for the first year or 2 I will have to run a generator at least 4-6 hours a day to finish out the cabin.
Give some thought to buying some rechargeable battery powered tools. Those tools have saved untold hours of wear and tear on our generator as well as saving fuel. Using less fuel on site also means less bother of hauling it. I can run the charger off a small inverter off the RV or truck battery.
I have Ryobi; circular saw, jig saw, 1/2" drill/driver, angle drill, reciprocating saw, and a couple of their flashlights. And their little chain saw. They all use the same 18 VDC pack. I have a couple of the Nicad (originals) and some newer lithium ones. The lithium last mush longer than the Nicad. The circular saw cuts 2x material and is wonderfully light to handle. They may not be the heaviest duty tools, but mine have worked well... don't hit nail when cutting with the circular saw.
Build an air port into the plumbing. I have a small air compressor that I built into the RV. It "charges" a small (1 gallon) air tank. I can blast the water out of the system without the bother of rounding up the equipment. I plan on doing the same in the cabin we're building.
Quote from: MountainDon on October 20, 2008, 09:51:34 PM
Give some thought to buying some rechargeable battery powered tools. Those tools have saved untold hours of wear and tear on our generator as well as saving fuel. Using less fuel on site also means less bother of hauling it. I can run the charger off a small inverter off the RV or truck battery.
Yes it's late on the east coast but I was desiging kitchen cabinets in bed and couldn't sleep.
I tried your trick Don with the inverter today and guess what. I ended up with a dead battery. No fault of the inverter as it is suppose to shut down when the voltage drops to 10.5 but it didn't. Well I didn't think it was I thought it was just a faulty connection and kept checking the clips to gain some use out of it. I had only ran it a couple of hours. Thinking back to this morning the truck was a little sluggish to start. Deisel at 26F. I think I have a bad battery. Well at least one of them anyway. They are the original since 99 so I am probably past due I guess. Too many cold starts in that length of time I figure. Anyway I will check it out in the morning. Luckily a friend come by to check on me and had him to jump it. Embarassing having a Nissan jump a Ford but what ever works huh. It's not far to the cabin driving but I really didn't want to have to walk home.
I don't have that problem anymore. :) The Jeep has two batteries, one extra I added. When it's turned off the second is isolated from the rest of the system. When it's running a constant duty relay keeps it in the charging circuit. There's a push button switch to bring it on line to self-jump yourself. It's better than using one of those diode isolators as full voltage is passed to the batteries.
Of course you'd need to find room for 4 batteries...
QuoteThey are the original since 99 so I am probably past due I guess.
:o :o You guess!!! d* ;D
Yeah I am like many Americans if it ain't broke don't fix it. ;D
I quit taking chances with batteries when I started wandering around the boonies by myself. It never was as much of a worry way back when I had a manual transmission, a minimum of electrical equipment and I had a more cavalier attitude.
Now the Jeep (automatic, computer, inverters, PC computer, auxillary lights, winch...) gets one new battery every two years. The oldest is put in the starting battery position and the newest as the reserve. I've been using Optima red tops for many many years with good luck. Another plus is they can be mounted sideways or even upside down. I have one on end to make it fit under the hood. [crz]
The Optima red tops are tops in my book bought two in 1995 one lasted 8 years and the other was in the wifes car until 2006.
Just bought a gel cell the other day don't know the brand I will have to look tomarrow it set me back 209.00 I hope it is as good as the optimas.
The saga continues.
Pier bracing - Is there an easy way to cross brace this?I can do the alternative bracing, but looking for options.
[ 32' ]
[ 24' ]
O-O-O-O-O-O
I I I
O O O 20'
I I I
O-O-O-O-O-O
O = Piers
I and - are beams
Freighting this weekend and next and.......
Thanks,
Mike
This is a pic of my base, lots of diagonal bracing on the edges and down the center beam. I wish I had a better shot of it, but i'm sure you get the idea....
(https://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/MaineRhino/Mountain%20Camp/100_0498.jpg)
One thing to keep in mind relative to bracing is that they always need to be in pairs. They don't always work very well individually in both tension and compression, so you need one to counteract the other.
Plus as illustrated by Rhino's cabin, brace in both width and length directions.
Unless I missed it, I didn't see how your posts are anchored to the ground. Do the post pads just sit on the sand/gravel bed? If so, what prevents a good wind from shifting the foundation once the walls are up?
Not familiar with Alaska freeze/thaw cycles, but is frost heave an issue?
Quote from: poppy on March 22, 2009, 05:29:58 PM
One thing to keep in mind relative to bracing is that they always need to be in pairs. They don't always work very well individually in both tension and compression, so you need one to counteract the other.
Plus as illustrated by Rhino's cabin, brace in both width and length directions.
Unless I missed it, I didn't see how your posts are anchored to the ground. Do the post pads just sit on the sand/gravel bed? If so, what prevents a good wind from shifting the foundation once the walls are up?
Not familiar with Alaska freeze/thaw cycles, but is frost heave an issue?
Frost jacking is a big issue. If you break the tundra, it will heave. All the old timers use a crib type system. There are many cabins with RR ties criss crossed under them. some VERY high. I will try to get a pic of one of the extreme examples. Unless someone comes up with a better idea, I am going to utilize a blend of alternative bracing and X bracing.
I have some snow to deal with first....
Bracing
Floor
Hauling freight
What connects the bracing to the posts and rim?
Looks like the sleds did a great job hauling materials.
When will the snow all be gone? Or mostly gone?
Quote from: Don_P on April 25, 2009, 12:48:53 PM
What connects the bracing to the posts and rim?
8" galv lag bolts with oversize washers. I personally dislike lag bolts. I predrilled for them and they really grab hard!
Quote from: MountainDon on April 25, 2009, 01:06:01 PM
Looks like the sleds did a great job hauling materials.
When will the snow all be gone? Or mostly gone?
Those beams are behind a 2007 300F Tundra. 277CC Rotax. Pulls very well. I was dragging them at about 30MPH and had plenty of throttle left.
The lake will be impassable by normal means most of the month of May. 1 year in 4 it is open for Memorial Day. I may try to haul freight again next weekend if I can do it safely.
Mike
Lake opened up 31 May.
Leveled and squared it. Got 3 walls mostly up. Center beam up (6X12X20').
6 June 09
Finished skinning wall - Braces in.
Aft loft
Front beam up. I do not know what it weighed. It was heavy and caused a bit of puckering. Needs squared and braced. Front loft faces north and will have northern lights for a view in the winter.
ots to do before I can get a roof on it. All the panels fit square with no trimming or making fit. Floor is solid and not bouncy. Immediate work area is actually clean and safe. Outside of that it is a sty. I need to get it roofed ASAP. May even pay to get it done.
On a sad note. My buddy got a 26 pound laker.... no pics yet. I was working, he was fishing.
Lookin real good lonelytree.
Ready to start roofing next weekend.
Roof is on, almost dried in.
Anyone know a quick way to shine up the stove pipe? Solvent or cleaner on a pole?
Mike
Looking good. [cool]
One question: Unless there is more to do on the chimney, what's a good snow storm going to do to it?
Since it's a metal roof with a pretty good pitch I believe the snow will slide off with no problems long before there's any serious build up on the roof. Those braces will be a great assist in keeping it in place in windy weather as well.
No ideas for cleaning the exterior. Which raises the question, how will the chimney be cleaned? From the inside up, or ?
I have 90" of pipe below the ceiling box. I was told to use a trash bag with a flue brush to clean it. Just poke the rod through the bag and attach the brush. Rubber band the trash bag to the dripless adapter and keep adding sections until you hit the cap.
The roofer put some high quality sealant on the roof cap. Being a farm boy, I still want to put some tar on the seams.
I still need to get the wall behind the stove done. I plan to put sheetrock, then 1" spacers, then cement board, then tile. Underneath, I want to put a 2X10" riser with cement board and tile. Getting sheetrock in across the water may be a pain. I may cut the sections in half. More seams but less chance of damage.
[cool] I wouldn't want to try and do that one from the roof top. ;D