http://www.treehugger.com/files/2006/12/green_insulatio_1.php
and here:
http://www.treehugger.com/files/2006/12/green_insulatio.php
They don't mention Biobased there (it might be my choice over Icynene)--.pdf warning, but only 2 pages and not graphics heavy.
http://www.biobased.net/dealers/forms/reasons_to_use_2003-09-03.pdf
Or the all-natural crowd's favorite, wool--relatively fireproof--it's used for hearth rugs--and supposed to be fairly vermin free if it's straight off the sheep--or treated, as in this first link, from Ireland.
http://www.sheepwoolinsulation.ie/
the New Zealand guys swear it will absorb formaldehyde if there's any in your building:
http://www.woolbloc.co.nz/
I think this one is Canadian, aiming especially at the log house market:
http://www.goodshepherdwool.com/
Rob Roy used sawdust and lime in his cordwood home too.
Yes he did, in at least one of his buildings.
At one stage I think he was using fiberglass ribbons across the middle of the logs.
But I'd think that the coverage with fiberglass would be pretty haphazard. Not to mention annoying to use.
So lime/sand/sawdust combination would probably be pretty good--it was his whole mortar, wasn't it?
(Treehugger's links were pretty high-tech)
No - he used a mortar with sawdust in it I think, but it was put at each end. The space in the middle was filled with the treated sawdust.
I have the book so if anyone needs more detail let me know and I will look it up. I'm thinking of using a bit of it anyway so may post more info soon.
Still sounds a lot better than trying to get fiberglass in there.
Probably Borax or some other boron compound?
He just used hydrated powdered lime and mixed it with sawdust in the wheelbarrow then poured it into the space between the mortared ends. Should work anywhere.
The old building I am working on used plain sawdust and burlap around the icebox - about 1930 or so.