14 x 24 Olympic Peninsula

Started by considerations, May 06, 2008, 07:25:20 PM

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considerations

I'm a beginner, a real beginner.  The foundation and floor decking is coming this Friday, and I'm working on the site.   I'm still dancing around with floor plans, convinced that there is flexibility even in small cabins.   I do not want to paint my self into a corner, figuratively or literally.

Here is a link if anyone has the time or inclination...I'd appreciate any feedback about practicality, etc.

https://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk265/considerations/?albumview=slideshow

Thanks in advance.

glenn kangiser

Looks like you have made it your own.  I think it shows great creativity.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


MountainDon

It is the most evolved 14 x 24 Little House I've ever laid eyes on. You've got some hours into that.

Is that upper floor done with a 2 ft. or higher kneewall? I'm wondering about the headroom by the bed?  ???  Not too many people get a stairway into a 14x24. How's that work for the headroom; I guess that depends on the sidewall height?  It's not real clear, but is that the bathroom across the rear of the main floor?

The images from your architecture program are so nice I hope you don't mind me posting a couple of images from the slideshow.



Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

considerations

Thanks, MountainDon, I am just using the Broderbund program, version 3, one of two mentioned on this site.  I really had to fight for a stairway.  I modeled it off of the new park model trailers that are so popular these days, so it is only 27" wide. I started with 36", and scaled it down.  I know its not code, but neither is a residence under 400sqft in this county. The full size stairway is the "escape hatch" in the back. 

It is a 2 foot "knee wall".  I'm planning on 10' studs, and 7' ceilings downstairs...with a foot or so for the ceiling joists, that gets me a 2' knee wall, or so.  I had to use the furniture in the "library", so the bed is a tight fit, but I felt to be realistic, I had to see if any furnishings would fit. 

This summer, I'm just concentrating on the shell.  The rainy season starts pretty much Oct 1, so the deck and carport are subordinate to weather proofing the cabin. 

I'm pretty sure the stairs have headroom, but my knowledge, or the limitations of the program have not let me affirm that.   If you know how, I'd love to confirm it.

I'm pretty sure I can get the foundation and floor deck up before finalizing, but before the framing starts, I better know what the floor plan is.





Willy

One thing to remember in these small cabins and narrow stairs. Furnishings may not be able to get moved up them. Watch what you plan to have in the loft area you may need to put it in first before you close up the walls. Another thing to keep in mind is sheet rock can you get full sheets into the rooms with out having to cut them up into chunks. This also means long boards, doors ect for trim. Mark


considerations

Hi Willy, thanks for the reminders, I'll take them to heart.

There is a full sized door and stair out the back of the loft, which I would do even if I only end up with a sort of "ship's ladder" inside.  That may help with some larger items. 

As far as sheetrock, I would rather completely avoid it if at all possible.  I'm "going where I've never gone before" with plumbing. 

My plan is to use some sort of wood, preferably planking (or at least the "look" of it).  There is a lovely and very rustic cabin being documented on this site that is doing the same, and I like it.  I "planked" my office.

I have a lot to learn and my ears are wide open.

MountainDon:  I dropped a couple "overhead" views of that same plan into Photobucket again.  Yes, the bathroom is the whole back of the cabin.  I crammed a "stacker W/D" in there, not because I necessarily want one, but the program does not have a combo w/d in the library. 

That hole in the corner of the floor in the loft is directly above the laundry basket that will be sitting on top of that washer, what ever model it turns out to be.  I have a full size washer and dryer in the power plant shed now, but its running cold water only , and requires the big gen.  When the cabin is built, I don't want to be schlepping clean laundry that far, so I hope to convert over to a more energy efficient and "in house" arrangement.

I have another plan, if this one is not feasible.

I've already garnered a great deal from this forum, both your posts in other threads have been most helpful.

I appreciate the feedback.

ScottA

Nice plan. Very creative design and it's small like mine. We need lots of pics when you get rolling.

CREATIVE1

This is a nice house.  I especially like the configuration of the "open to above" areas.  The upstairs bedroom is way beyond basic.

A question: where are you located on the Olympic Peninsula?  We're building there too, but can only build a 200 square foot building without a permit.

considerations

I'm in Clallam county, on the north coast, about halfway between Port Angeles and Neah Bay.

I'm stretching credulity with the codes, but I'm not alone in that out here.

"21.01.045 Exemptions.

Section 105.2 of the International Building Code (IBC) as published by the International Code Council regarding exemptions from permit requirements shall be amended to read as follows:

1. One-story detached accessory buildings used as tool and storage sheds, playhouses, and similar uses and classified as U Occupancies, provided that such buildings are for private use only and are accessory to single family dwellings and provided the floor area does not exceed 400 square feet. Eaves may project not more than 24 inches beyond the wall line.

.......but then:

"Unless otherwise exempted, separate plumbing, electrical, and mechanical permits will be required for the above exempted items."

So, I'm pushing it. There is no single family dwelling for the cabin to be "accessory to". 

I've been out here for a while in a 5th wheel.  But the walls are starting to close in on me. Enough already.

Putting the "paid for" land up as collateral on a mortgage has seemed too big a gamble, turns out I've been at least somewhat vindicated with the mortgage market being exposed as such a racket.

There is a grey water drainfield, (the county seems ok with that, its the blackwater that they focus on).  And, for good or bad, a portajohn, until I acquire an composting toilet, with the required overflow tank, which the portajohn folk supply and service. 

Down the road, I'll focus on the construction of a permitted septic system, and maybe the cart is before the horse, but the restricted space I live in has changed my priorities.

Since getting here, I have made a large clearing, a moderately decent driveway, planted a small orchard, established the vegatable garden, cleared and fenced pasture for the horses, and finally decided where to site the cabin....which is not where the house will be...someday.

Didn't exactly make a quick decision on that, but the fortunate outcome of it was that I found this web site and the plans, and had a chance to learn a little about building things by putting up the laundryroom/power plant shed and the office. 

I certainly learned a lot about what not to do.  I work from home, which is extremely fortunate, and has given me a chance to really get to know the place, where the sun is during different times of the year, etc.





eric

That's a really neat looking plan. I've always liked small staircases. They feel so sneaky.
supercalifragilisticsammydavisjunior

considerations

Lessons learned



The lumber truck offloads aft, not tharwtships (yagh)

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Redoverfarm

considerations and to think you are just getting started.  But the journey is half the fun.  Before long you can say "I did it".

glenn kangiser

Yup -- that's a roll off lumber truck.  Untie the load, pop the clutch, get away from the crash and drive away.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

considerations

One hot shower and an Aleve, and I'm fine.  Next time, however, I'll be set up for an aft drop.  I'd like to move the rest of the of building materials only twice, from the pile to the saw to the cabin.   d*   They only broke one piece, snapped it like a twig.  I love the smell of cut fir. 

Today was a red letter day, the first Douglas Fir squirrel I've ever heard spent the better part of an hour giving me thunder for working near his luncheon tree and the nesting eagles are back.   

The adventure continues.....



Redoverfarm

Yep been there done that.  I had a load of subfloor and roof sheeting delivered in this fashion.  It was dropped on the edge of the bank near the basement. When it rolled off the truck the bands broke and I had 15 sheeting slidding down the hill to the drive.  No fun carring them back to the stack at the top of the grade.

ScottA

Oh fun! You got wood. You have help or working alone?.


glenn kangiser

Quote from: Redoverfarm on May 10, 2008, 06:58:39 AM
Yep been there done that.  I had a load of subfloor and roof sheeting delivered in this fashion.  It was dropped on the edge of the bank near the basement. When it rolled off the truck the bands broke and I had 15 sheeting slidding down the hill to the drive.  No fun carring them back to the stack at the top of the grade.

Just a minute... let me guess...the driver didn't offer to help.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Redoverfarm

No in fact it was a joint venture. Remember we are in WV.

considerations

For now, I'll work alone. 

I do not flatter myself to think that the rafter beam is going to get one end magically levitated while I support the other end.  Nor am I screamingly wild about some of the high places without at least having someone on the ground to keep an eye on things (me).

I have built a few things, the power shed, the office. I reroofed my folk's barn and built a tool shed and a loafing shed for the critters.  None of them rise to the size or level of complexity of this undertaking.

I've learned to think very carefully about getting things done.  What I cannot do with muscle can sometimes be accomplished with brains....but if it slows me down too much I'll be looking for help.

For now, and likely for the bulk of the project, its a one woman show. 




Willy

Quote from: glenn kangiser on May 10, 2008, 12:47:01 PM
Quote from: Redoverfarm on May 10, 2008, 06:58:39 AM
Yep been there done that.  I had a load of subfloor and roof sheeting delivered in this fashion.  It was dropped on the edge of the bank near the basement. When it rolled off the truck the bands broke and I had 15 sheeting slidding down the hill to the drive.  No fun carring them back to the stack at the top of the grade.

Just a minute... let me guess...the driver didn't offer to help.
When I took my Rhino Decking up along with all the deck framing stuff, posts, concrete sacks ect I lost the whole load out of the back of my pick up! That Rhino stuff is like greased wood and slid right out even with 800 lbs of concrete on it next to the cab!! I was lucky it happen as I was pulling away from a light at the intersection. 3 guys jumped out of there trucks and helped me put it all in the truck before the cops showed up and fined me for a unsafe load. I defently used straps to hold it in the bed. I broke the hangers on my tailgate also when the load landed on it as it droped off the box. Not one board broke nor did a sack of ready mix bust open on the road. I was lucky cause after that light I would be doing 60 MPH down a highway pulling steep hills! Mark

considerations


I dug 14 holes 30" deep and 24" square, filled them with 5/8"- and leveled the top of the gravel

Set 16" diameter concrete reinforced blocks on the gravel and then 12" pyramid shaped piers on top

Then put u-shaped brackets for 4x4" PT posts with threaded rods and washers and nuts in the holes. 

Then put 4 x 4" pt post in the brackets. 

Ok I have read this forum a lot, and read the read me first, and the plans, but don't see a clear answer to the following":

Question 1 = Do you drill holes in the 4" s 4" PT posts to match the holes in the brackets and bolt through?

If so, is that enough fastening?  Or are the other little holes in the brackets for nails, as well - or instead?

Question 2 - are the usual stamped sheet metal brackets for connecting 4 x 4's sufficient for connecting the top of the posts to the beams, or should they be as hefty as the ones at the bottom of the posts?  Do these get bolted as well ( I plan to set the beams on top of the posts, not try to bolt them to the sides of the beams.)

Question 3 - I don't know where the log trucks around here go with all those trees, but most of the local lumber comes from Canada. So, faced with a 14 day wait, and the obvious weight of 24' PT 4 x 8's, I got 4 12's instead of 2 24's for the beams.

That's why there are 14 piers, one for dead center under the butted up ends of the 12' 4 x 8's 

Is there any thing I need to do to secure those butted up ends?   The bolt hole in the bracket (it is centered just like the butted ends) won't connect them, can I just nail through the little holes in the bracket?  does it matter?

The other end of the foundation beams are just hanging out there, not connected to anything. 
If these questions have been answered before, I apologize for the repetition, guess I'm this forum's latest field test.