Youngins' Playhouse

[youngins]

Subfloor-Joists

Got the two seam joists in:


Checked to make sure OSB edges run in middle of joists:
*Note: The way I am laying out the OSB here is not the preferred method. OSB aways should run the other way so the T&G part spans between the floor joist, not lands on the joist.




Hammered in rest of the joists



Next steps:

1. Attach hardware cloth to underside of joists
2. Throw in insulation between the joists
3. Fasten OSB sub-flooring to joists

[jraabe]

It's neat watching this come together. Very clear photos and enough detail to see every step. Two forward, one back. That equals onward!

[peg_688]

 Chris your running the OSB decking the wrong way  , it aways should run the other way so the [highlight]T&G part spans between the floor joist, not lands on the joist.[/highlight]

Reason being most buildings are larger in size , and the NON T&G (ends) of the sheets would have no support between the joist.


So [highlight]AWAYS[/highlight] run the 8' (lenght) of the  sub floor sheathing 90 deg. to the joists.  So the T&G part can do what it should do , keep the sheets from seperating , squeaking if they rub as you walk on them.  

 True it may not effect your build , but some one else may run into issues by doing thier sheathing that way. In fact a guy building over on the Oly. Penn , one of the John's IIRC ran his sheathing Arse backwards ,   Not due to your photos but hopefully you get my drift, eh  


 Keep at er  8-)

[youngins]

So what we "should" do is lay the two 8' sections so the T&G is parallel to the beams (or, as you indicated, perpendicular to the joists), along the length of the structure.  Cut the 8' section on the third panel in half so what we have in effect is two 4'x4' sections. Lay those two together in the same way the other two are, with the T&G parallel to the beams.

Point taken - thanks  

[peg_688]

Yup and stager the joints so the first row would be a 8' sheet and then the 4', then the 2nd row would start with a 4' sheet then the 8' sheet , so the 4 ' seams do not line up.

Your welcome , thanks for understanding  my post was not a slam  

As Glenn said  some where lately it's hard for you guys to "ASK' what you don't know , Glenn is so wise  :)Opps I meant  

Like did you crown your joist ??

[glenn-k]

More likely a wiseacre -    That'd be me.

Good job on keeping the the decking straight, PEG.  I wouldn't have known the difference except on a bigger floor.  I guess that's why you get the big bucks.

[peg_688]

 Ya the big bucks ,

















 Ya I been known ta take the big bucks now in again.

My point was folks will look at youngins photos and that will be there "right way" to lay sheathing . So I thought it was necessary to point out thats it's not the right way , just  "a'" way , in this case not really wrong , except it will / would be harder to engage the T&G if there where any twist , bow , buggered T&G joints .

Sorry fer the drift but it sort of fit  


Now I use a camera ,





But I still can get close to um
 

[glenn-k]

Good point - well taken --  even good to learn on a little house as that is why he's building it, eh?  

Who's the young dude with the deer?

[peg_688]

 He was young Eh Pretty fair hunter as well Wish I knew him

[youngins]

I edited my post w/the pictures to include your comments about how OSB should be laid.

Like did you crown your joist ??

I assume the crowning should be concentrated toward the center of each joist?

Wendy just might threaten bodily harm to me for bringing up the crowning - her patience with me a far as trying to get everything perfect is wearing thin.  She keeps reminding me that we would be so much further along if I would just stay focused. . . .  .     .

Which reminds me, I've got to do something with that fence.......

[peg_688]

 Crown : The highest point .

             The bow up part of most lumber.

From the website : http://www.bestdecksite.com/introPlanPg1.htm

 Tip: Most boards have a slight "crown" to them. To check for crowning, hold one end of the board about a foot from your nose with the other end resting on the ground. With the wide side up, sight down an edge of the board. If there is any crown, your eye will easily see the edge as being slightly curved. When you install your joists, place all the joists with the crown up. In so doing, you'll get a more consistent floor surface. Later on, when you install the decking and furniture, the extra weight will work to flatten out the crowns resulting in not only a consistent but also flat floor surface.

 



 

So you eye ball down each joist and place the "crown up" , do the same thing with your stubs when you lay them on the floor when you assemble / build your walls .

This deck site looks pretty good for beginners / newbies  

G/L PEG

[youngins]

Oh, I was thinking that you were alluding to get out the power planer and forcing the crowning.

The lumber I got was rough cut - come to think of it two of the pieces were warped. I could not distinguish any natural crowning toward the center.

Next time I make a lumber order for the wall studs - I wonder if I can specifically request no rough hewn.


Good site reference - thanks!

[glenn-k]

Hey Chris, even with the pressure from Wendy, if you stay focused, try to keep moving.  We don't want you to burn a hole in something.  Lots of ant fires start that way. :-?

[peg_688]

Next time I make a lumber order for the wall studs - I wonder if I can specifically request no rough hewn.

You shouldn't have to , did your lumber come from Home despot??

To be honest if I got sent a load that looked like your I send it back

But I don't live where you live and all your material could be that bad , wood doesn't like hot,  dry , sunny weather. So it may be
 "what it is"/ "the way it is "  in your loacl area .

For what your building " It will be fine last a long time! 8-)" kinda thing.

Poor material is harder to work with , just like cheap tools they lack power , balance , etc . Working with good lumber is a joy , but good lumber is getting harder and harder to find .  

  For instance old doors 20 or more  years old where made of very nice wood , letting in the hardware hinges , strike plates etc , was fun , today most doors are made of $hitty wood or no wood , some have plastic rails (the edges of the door ) or pine that is twisty nasty wood , they finger joint together short pieces to reduce warping , etc , will those lil pieces are not nice straight garined wood so when letting in your working with "Narly twisted fickle "  wood grain , makes it harder . Now if you never have worked with nice true / straight garined wood , you think , $hit this is hard , I'm a hack , I'll never get it right , or close enought is good enought!

Ah the lementing of a old woodworker / carpenter/ cabinet maker :'( :'(. I could go on but I gotta get to work , side job today , maybe some photos tonight if in she goes good    8-)


Keep at er Chris , she'll come ta gether for ya  

Maybe even a award from Wendy when it does , eh

[glenn-k]

I have to work with old wood quite often. :-/

[peg_688]

I have to work with old wood quite often. :-/

Such is life , eh Glenn Betta  ole  woodie,   than no woodie  

[glenn-k]

Yes -- I find these old bridge  timbers quite useful and best of all they were free.

[peg_688]

,Yes -- I find these old bridge  timbers quite useful and best of all they were free.

They can be , I installed a full morticed lockset on a cabin over in the Anacortes area , Eye of the Island / Mt. Erie area .

It was a ole english made lockset not instructions , flea market buy IIRC. Anyway the door was asolid 2" thick reclaimed Red wood  tunnel  timbers , milled about 1880 or so , (still had steam or soot marking on/ in )it from steam trains going thru the tunnel . Now that my good people was some great wood  8-) straight , true as a Whidbey Island  summer day ( they are long 16 hours of day light, notice I didn't say sun  ) But that stock / door milled like a  woodworkers dream.

The other side of the storey where the trees / wood they used for the door jamb was so site grown pecker pole Fir, tight grained hard as the nobs stuff.   They had machined a deep , like 4 " rabbit, that made the door jamb , so when the door closed the  handle hit the jamb side so I had to let it out , with all hand tools as it was no top of the Mtn. and all the power tools where back in town , we rode up to the place in a ATV  , about a mile.

Anyway it was a work of art when it was done  8-) REALLY !!

So later dudes off to the job site  8-)  




 

[youngins]

Subfloor

Got the hardware mesh installed to keep critters out:



Put strips or tarpaper down between joists-trying to keep critters from chewing on insulation:


Laid insulation and started putting down sub-floor OSB:


Next step is to get OSB straight and fasten.

[MarkAndDebbie]

Subfloor

Laid insulation and started putting down sub-floor OSB:


Next step is to get OSB straight and fasten.

I'm not sure it matters since you're not going to air-condition the space (although you might - that's the nicest playhouse I've seen;) ). Do the craft facing and tarpaper make a vapor barrior on both sides of the wall? I think if moisture gets in there it wouldn't get out. Anyone know?

[youngins]

Subfloor

Kids inspect the work and make floor plan decisions:


Red is hoping he can move in soon - As you can see Cosette keeps a tight rein on him

We actually are planning to air condition the space with a window unit

We have considered trapped moisture under the insulation, but we think that since the felt is just kind of laid in there, that it should be able to breath - at least a little.

[Pa_Kettle]

We have considered trapped moisture under the insulation, but we think that since the felt is just kind of laid in there, that it should be able to breath - at least a little.

Looks nice!  

Could be wrong, but I don't think the felt will behave as a vapor barrier anyhow.  

PK

[youngins]

Subfloor

Used #8 2" screws to fasten in the sub floor and then sealed OSB joints:



Youngins' tool de jour - a $5 pair of knee pads and a good pair of gloves:



Next step - wall framing !!!

[peg_688]

#1:  then sealed OSB joints:



#2: Next step - wall framing !!!

#1: What did you use ? Looks like tar

#2: This should be entertaining  

Sorry!!   But still I hope you see my point Hehhehehhehehhheheee .................

Your braver than most , I will add !!

G/L PEG

[youngins]

1. Roof sealer - all what I had on hand.  

2. Yeah - think I should have my own local cable acesss show - call it "Building with Chris"