Multi-phased 1 1/2 story home project in Austin, TX

[Redoverfarm]

phalynx If you get into a hurry after painting just keep a plastic coffee can or butter dish with a lid around. Just pop the detachable parts in the solivent or water and clean them later. Depending on whether you use oil or water based just use the applicable solivent. Pop the lid on and clean them when you get back to it.  Although I usually try to clean when I am done I still drop them in the can afterwards until I use them again if it's short term.

[glenn kangiser]

...or just put a plastic bag around them.

[phalynx]

We've been working a little every night on some interior walls.  The girls got their rooms framed.  We have the kitchen wall up and the pantry, etc..




Here is an image of what the kitchen should look like..  I hope.

[Redoverfarm]

Hum. I would finish the kitchen first. Good job. Is everything going together as planned? 

[phalynx]

Going together as planned...   hum... I am my own worst problem...  I don't seem to think 7-8 steps ahead sometimes.  I moved that kitchen wall in 6" one day because we decided that the closet wasn't going to be big enough and I wanted to have the 6" in the length of the bedroom since I was losing it in the width.  Problem was, the window was to be 36" from the dividing wall in the kitchen.  By moving the wall, it's now 32".  That destroyed the cabinet plan.  I had to redo it.  Also, the table that we pulled from storage was much bigger than I remember...  as you can see in the picture.  So, the large utility room by the stairs had to be shrunk a lot so we could walk by the table to our bedroom.  Lot's of little changes on the fly that change the big picture.  Ultimately, they haven't been major issues.  Working with everyone on here sure makes working through issues less stressful.  I have never met a more useful and helpful group of people.  Hat's off to all here.

[phalynx]

We got the siding on the back of the house this weekend.  I have monday and tuesday off so we hope to get the front finished and both sides painted.  I can't wait to move to 100% inside work!

[MountainDon]

Looking like a real house. Great, Scott!

[phalynx]

Back complete....  working on front now.

[phalynx]

WEEEEEEEE!!!! Outside is complete!!!!  We have a SHELL!!  Of course there are still some things to do like build the porch on the front.  Build entire porch and deck on the back.  But hey,,, that's just a "home improvement project".     Here are some pics of the finished exterior.


Through the trees


More.

[Redoverfarm]

Looks good Scott.  Looks like you are off the scaffolding now but maybe not. Are you going to cut in the flue?  I assume there is a roof over the front deck.

[phalynx]

Redover...... you are correct sir.  There is 1 more project that requires the scaffolding.  That's for this weekend.  But,,, that's my 1 problem.  I need  to cut in the flue.  I have NO clue what to do there.  Right now, there is a false roof over this chimney.  The dimensions are approximately 30" x 30".  I need some input on how to properly dress/seal/build the top.  I figure I can go to Home Depot and get a chimney top.  But what typically is the roof material?  It seems like it's usually mortar but I would guess that's brick.  I tried looking online and didn't see too much info on how to dress it.   Input?

On the front deck, the roofing for that will be here thursday maybe.  I can do that over time.

[Redoverfarm]

phalynx I am sort of in the dark on part of it as it pertains to box flue's as all I have ever done has been mason flue's. I would assume you have tripple wall pipe.  I can tell you that I believe you will have to extend the box constuction at least 18" above you ridge.  Then allow your tripple wall and vent cap to protrude at least 12"-18" above your flue cap. Most of the time it is recommened that the top of your flue be 2' above the ridge. I am not sure whether you can go with a poured cap on top of your boxing or whether there is a special cap for box flues. It is no problem to build a poured cap but you will have to configure a catch screen/plate for your concrete as your flue is probably hollow.  I would build cleats on the inside and use a piece of PT ply.  Then build a frame 2"-3" tall with at least 1-1 1/2" overhang.  Just above the plywood base insert rebar through the frame work to support another a grid configuration of rebar that will lay on top of the rebar ( ideally located @ 1/2 thickness of your cap and with each piece 1/2" shy of the cap framing)that you have embeded in your framing.  This will allow it to be held even if the plywood would later give way the formed comcrete will stay in place. The concrete poured in your form will surround both layers of rebar and unifiy it all. If a poured cap is permissible then work the concrete to create a high center so water will not stand on top.  Remeber to take your trowel and drag the edges and tap on your form board to get a smooth edge.

Then you would flash the flue to the roof sheeting with regular roof flashing. In your case that would mean removing the shingles, sheeting(just to allow your framing to pass through) and re-shingle with the flashing. Always remember to allow the upper pieces of flashing to lap over the lower flashing which will dump the water out onto the last shingle that is not flashed.  Without going back to your picture I think it was in the center of the wall and ridge which means you will have to flash both sides of the flue in the same manner. 

On the lower corners you will need to flash the bottom of the flue first and try to configure the flashing in a 90 degree turn up pitch first. Then let the first piece of flashing on the down hill side to lap over and around that piece. If you don't the water will come down along the flue and slip into your roof system.  Then just work your way up the toward the peak.  I know it sounds a little daunting but just think water and how it will come down the roof along the edge of the flue and how to prevent it. Most flashing comes in pre-bent and pre-cut pieces. Half covers the roof nd the other goes up along the side of your flue.

I hope this is helpful.  I know what to do it is just hard to put it in words to someone else.  Maybe someone else has a better mousetrap.  Like I said most of mine has been masoned. The flashing is no different in either case but the flue cap might be.

Sorry for the length. Don will smack my hands.

[MountainDon]

Sorry for the length. Don will smack my hands.

Hey, you used paragraphs.  I couldn't possibly say anything about a post with paras. Paras make all the difference in longer posts.

With wide screen monitors those long lines can get a little hard to follow with older eyes. 

[phalynx]

My plans were to run the double wall flue pipe up beyond the box to 2' over the roof.  The biggest thing is we weren't planning on putting in the actual fireplace until the fall.  We'd rather use the money for things like,,,, toilets, tubs, etc..   I just wanted to get the top all done.  That may not be the best method.

[phalynx]

Did a little this weekend.  Completed the room framing upstairs and did about 1/2 the wiring upstairs too.  Then mostly we cleaned up the tree mess we made when we had to pull electricity to the middle of the property.  We had about 15 large oak trees sitting in the front of the property that needed to be cut up.

[phalynx]

Been slow going here for several weeks.  Pollen has hit us and we have been down for almost 2 weeks of Sinus horror.

We managed to get some work done this weekend on the plumbing.  Got the water heater installed.  My first pipe sweating took place.   I didn't think it was too hard at all.  Of course, we'll see when I put some water pressure on it.. 

We also started running some of the PEX for the service upstairs.  Built a few more walls, etc...

[NM_Shooter]

PEX is fun, huh?  Probably the favorite part of my addition build.

-f-

[phalynx]

It's nice and fast.  I got the expander tool.  It's almost too quick...  Takes the challenge out of it.

[Redoverfarm]

You must not get too much cold weather there since all of your supply lines to the heater are exposed to the elements.

[phalynx]

We don't get much, but they would freeze.  I have to figure out how to best insulate them.  I may build a wood box to insulate them.

[phalynx]

Did a little work this weekend.  Learning plumbing still.  Did more PEX and started the waste plumbing.







Farm Fresh eggs,,,,  to be delivered soon!

[Sassy]

Moving right along Phalynx, lookin good!  Glenn put the foam rubber wraps (don't know the official name) around our hot water lines - they're slit down one side & just go over the lines - fast & easy to do. 

[John Raabe]

That piping looks so much easier than copper! Cheaper too, I expect. My builder buddies are saying they are saving every scrape of copper wire now and selling it back for the metal.

[glenn kangiser]

Thieves will likely be stripping out a lot of wire before buildings - houses etc are complete.  Heard of one recently already as well as all welders, welding leads and tool boxes stolen off a job in Sacramento.  Not mine.

[AAA-DAY]

Phalynx, 

Your house looks GREAT. Is your siding pale yellow with white trim? I can't tell if it is, or if it just not painted yet.

I'm really looking forward to seeing more interior photos as you progress