I got my beams up for the loft in the Victoria's Cottage plan. I ordered the 2x6 T&G for delivery this week, but I was wondering about the best way to install the decking:
-should I do any sanding of the underside before I install it? Sealing the underside?
-when I install it, should I nail it in like I would with oak flooring (eg angled at the tongue)?
-should I use glue as well?
I plan on putting some plywood on top of the deck to protect it because will use the deck as work area while I am getting the roof on.
Thanks for your help.
mt
You will likely get some better advice from others on the forum but here are some things about decking that I've seen work:
• Make sure decking is dry and stabilized
• Sand any grade stamps and prefinish on at least the exposed bottom side.
• Pull the boards together before nailing, do not glue between deck boards but do glue to beams.
• You can sand the upper side for a finished floor but an underlayment will cut down on noise and dust and add strength to the floor diaphragm.
Thanks, John. Let me fire off another related question given the comment about underlayment on top of the decking:
While I understand the soundproofing nature, I thought one of the reasons this was recommended was that it served a dual purpose--on the underside it provides a decorative ceiling, and on top it provides a usable loft floor. If I were to use an underlayment on top wouldn't that take away some of the financial advantage of this decking? Wouldn't I be money ahead to not do the decking and instead put down a good quality 3/4" plywood, perhaps cabinet grade?
Just wondering....
I did a similar floor with 1x12 t&g pine (mill added groove only at 6") with 3/4 underlayment over it for the upstairs floor. This could give the knotty pine ceiling but still have the carpeted etc. floor upstairs or in the loft.
Do as much finishing on the underside as you can before you install it. On a couple houses I've sprayed the T&G with lacquer based sanding sealer or with an oil like Watco before I installed it. Saves working overhead and having to cut in around the beams.
Nailing it can be a pain. The 2x6 I've seen around here has a double T&G. It takes a very long finish nail to blind nail it at a 45[ch730] angle from above the upper tongue. I don't know if any of the flooring hammers are meant to do 2x flooring. Ask a rental place. Glue on the beams help minimize squeaks.
If you are putting plywood over it permanently just face nail it.
QuoteThanks, John. Let me fire off another related question given the comment about underlayment on top of the decking:
While I understand the soundproofing nature, I thought one of the reasons this was recommended was that it served a dual purpose--on the underside it provides a decorative ceiling, and on top it provides a usable loft floor. If I were to use an underlayment on top wouldn't that take away some of the financial advantage of this decking? Wouldn't I be money ahead to not do the decking and instead put down a good quality 3/4" plywood, perhaps cabinet grade?
Just wondering....
Humm if you spaced the joist out for 2x6 decking you'd have to use 1 1/8" thick T&G plywood , and that might not work either , whats the spacing between the joist??
The T&G looks good and if it's dry, say 13 % MC or under, I'd
not glue it to the joist tops , it'll only make a mess of the "finished ceiling side, the glue always gets where you don't want it at least thats been my experience , and const. adhesive really doesn't hold that well generally, I've remodeled a lot of homes and as a rule that glue doesn't hold as well as they say , at least IMO .
I'd pre-sand , benite , stain , and maybe 1 clear coat. Then I'd nail it flooring style/ toe nail with 16 d galv nails , if it's dry enought it shouldn't shrink to gaps , the subfloor John's talking about cuts down on noise , some what , but mostly dust transmission from the floor / life / living space above.
So your advantage is a nice looking finished T&G ceiling and "sub flooring " upstairs with one product, it could be the finished floor for awhile , just sand it after you lay it and stain / apply clear finish as you desire . Later on IF the dirt / dust filtering thru bothers you add the "finished " floor then .
Hope this helps explain it more clearly.
G/L PEG
Thanks, folks. I will treat the underside as suggested and then see how the top deck works before I add the expense of another floor. I was really surprised to see how expensive that 2x6 T&G is.
As for nailing, PEG suggests using 16d galvies blind nailed. Why not 16d finishing nails? I am thinking this might be a good for my palm nailer.
QuoteThanks, folks. I will treat the underside as suggested and then see how the top deck works before I add the expense of another floor. I was really surprised to see how expensive that 2x6 T&G is.
As for nailing, PEG suggests using 16d galvies blind nailed. Why not 16d finishing nails? I am thinking this might be a good for my palm nailer.
I don't know why - but I'll guess that the finishing nails would not hold as well as 16d sinkers and the galvies would hold even better - touch a finish nail then a galv - much more friction to hold it together.
Couldn't you use the palm nailer with the galvies?
Mark or Debbie :-/ :-/ has it , you'll need that added "suck together" power the 16 galv. common wiill give you . 2x6 T&G really needs to be shown who's in charge , that big head and the pull up power along with a large straight slot screw driver or sharpened flat bar to pry the T&G tight then wack the nail in .
The palm nailer will work on most boards but I'd highly recommend a added wack or two to "suck er up tight" as well. Or a bow wrench , seen um, never used one , they look like the right idea , not sure they are made stout enought to do what they are designed for, :-/ only use would tell.
You really want those boards tight , even if they are some what dry , like I said 14 % or under.
The fiinsh nail or a finish nail gun will not pullum up tight and they will be able to move / head pulls through to easy with a finish nail.
Do as you please , your house, your time ,your dime , I'm just telling you what I've learned and done for 30 years or so ::)
G/L PEG
Thanks for the clarification on the nails. I do not have a bo wrench, but I do have a variety of big hammers and lots of scrap wood. One way or another, we will get em in nice and tight. 16d galvies it is!
mt