Don and Peter's Hot Rod Corner

[MountainDon]

I don't like blocks, but they are used.  :-/  IF you do go that route be certain to chamfer the edge that rests against the spring. A hard edge there can increase the likelihood of breaking a leaf.

Lowering reminded me of this "rate your jeep" site. Just for fun

http://www.dirtroadmagazine.com/jeeprate.htm

[glenn kangiser]

Plenty of those lowriders here already --- I wanted to be different.

[glenn kangiser]

I'm kind of afraid of the blocks wanting to rotate - overstress the u-bolts etc.  Maybe little ones.

[MountainDon]

That's one of the reasons I don't like 'em.  

[MountainDon]

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[MountainDon]

Before we go spend all of Glenn's money on wheels, tires and lifts let's take a step back. Glenn, what's the tire size on the Chief right now? Factory size was probably 215 or 225 /75SR15 (diameter approx 28 to 28.5 inches). It should be possible to use up to a 30 inch diameter tire without running into any clearance problems.

You probably would not want to go to any taller a tire because of several factors. There's the fender clearance thing of course. But there's also the axle gear ratio problem, sometimes not thought of until after the tires are on. IMO, an increase of a couple inches is probably okay in most caes, especially when you have an automatic. But an increase of more than that will be an unhappy combination unless the gears are changed. And I'm pretty sure you don't want to go there. I base this on experience over the years with a number of different built-up 4x4's. For example, my present Cherokee came with 3:55 gears, 28.5" dia. tires. I installed the 32" GoodYear MT/R's and the 3.5"lift before getting around to doing the gears. It sucked!!. Power was down, the AT downshifted at the slightest hint of a grade increase, the fuel economy was worse. I changed to 4:56 gears and all was happy again. BTW, that change brought the overall tire/gear ratio back to where it is just a little lower geared than stock. 4:11 gears would have had it just a little overgeared from stock. It's a very happy combination.

I wouldn't touch the old 9 x 16 military tires, 8 ply IIRC. They are way too stiff in the side walls. If you have rocks you want to have flexy sidewalls...  should be airing down from highway pressures as well. That does have the disadvantage of reducing ground clearance a little, but it increases traction and comfort. It also necessitates having a source of compressed air to air up for highway travel again.  (FYI, my Cherokee runs 25 PSI in the 32x11.5x15's for everyday use. I drop them to 15 PSI for normal 4-wheeling and less for more severe. Drop them to 10-11 for soft sand. Have an onboard air comp.)

If those tires on the Chief still have plenty of tread as you mentioned, and they're within the useful carcass life (as discussed someplace else) you probably don't want to replace them and immediately double (or better) your investment in the Chief. Do you?

It would be nice to increase the tire size. Increasing overall tire height is the only way to increase clearance between the axles and the ground. But 25 years of use will usually have resulted in the loss of spring arch, and the lowering of the chassis/body. Regaining that, plus a little, will more than likely serve your needs.

You could make your own set of HD extended shackles like the Con-fers; you have the welding skills, just need the time. You could gain 1/2 to 1 inch there without much potential problem.

You could add small blocks for another 1/2 to 1 inch.

My experience with adding leaves to old spring packs has been unsatisfactory. Usually ends up being stiffer and harder riding... the stiffness reduces suspension flexibility; not desirable.

I've gone the re-arching the springs route as well and found that didn't work to my satisfaction either. Although I was happier with re-arched springs than I was with extra leaves.

IMO.

One more opinion, tall and narrow tires, say 33 x 9.5, have a special place/use. Mud and/or snow. They dig down to where you hope the traction is. For rock you want wider and softer. Mud also needs horsepower to be able to spin fast enough to throw the tread clear. You probably have more rock than mud or snow.  ??  I had a summer and a winter set of wheels and tires for the Scout I had back home. 33x12.5x15 summer and 33x9.5x15 winter. Both in the Mud/Snow pattern. M/S grip rocks real good too.

But then that's just my opinion.

[glenn kangiser]

Thanks for the thoughts, guys. I will want to wear these tires out before changing - or at least stick rocks through the sidewalls like I have been doing on my truck for the last week -- two pretty new tires with rocks through the sidewalls at about $130 each.  One working - one playing.

That's part of the reason for the Jeep -- rough roads for a 12000 lb truck --eats tires.  Also we have guys wandering the back woods around here that will make all of your tools etc disappear if you are off hiking etc.

I think I will look into the low block and possibly tough shackles for a start.  Easy for me to do.  

Air conditioner fix is a priority.

[glenn kangiser]

Yeah- I thought it was add on - but it says Jeep right on it so I guess it is factory.  A/C is pretty much a necessity around here.

Nobody likes a sweaty old fat man. :'(

[MountainDon]

Do you have a Discount Tire Store near you? IMO, the best tires are those bought at Discount Tire along with their free replacement certificate. My 32 inch Goodyears were about $160 each plus the replacement certificate $23. When, not IF, but WHEN I cut a sidewall they replace the tire with a brand new one. All you have to pay for is a new certificate for the new tire. $23 or whatever it might be. N questions asked as to what you were doing. Simple. No limit to how many tires replaced, as long as you've bought one cert for each tire. My original set of 5 has had four replacements over the past three years. Good deal!

A/C. It's the #1 accessory for a 4x4 if you ask me. I ate dust, sweated buckets for too long to want to go anywhere without it.  

Peter, if you don't want A/C in your Scout another great use for the compressor is for pumping air for tires. Easy conversion with the old piston type compressors.

The rotary types can also be used, but you need an oiler/de-oiler etup for the comp and to keep the oil out of the air.  If you can find room under the hood for both A/C and air compressor you've got the best.

[glenn kangiser]

Just one more thing to carry but I have the Ryobi 18v tool set with all the extra's and they make a pretty good compressor for it too.

[MountainDon]

I should have pointed out that as well as the tire replacement certificate, if a tire is repairable (tread puncture) the repair is free. Balancing and installation is always free when you buy and every 5K miles they'll rotate and re balance for free.

[glenn kangiser]

There used to be a couple Discount Tires in Fresno, but up here we have only one fairly good small tire dealer and a few that are not as good.  Tire deals are all 40 to 80 miles away.  I'm sure I will eat some.  Many of the mountains around here produce mean pointy Greenstone rocks.

[glenn kangiser]

Well --- ordered another tire for the big truck and cleaned the oxidation off the Jeep today.  I used an old trick my brother used to use.  Just clean it all with the old original formula Go--Jo hand cleaner - the kind without pumice.  Makes it shine like new.  I wanted something that would not leave wax as I want to touch up some of the decals with black paint.

[MountainDon]

Go-Jo! I never would have thought of using it for that!  Stuff's been around longer than dirt... just about.  1946 actually, year I was born; 2 great things in one year.    

Developed to get the hands of workers in rubber plants clean.

[glenn kangiser]

Yeah-- really removes oxidation easily - tar etc too.  It actually seems to rejuvenate the paint a bit - makes it look fresh and new rather than dried out and ugly. :-?

Almost drove it to the river today but couldn't brave the heat, and need to get some wire diagrams to check out the intermittent back window.

It also has an oil leak - maybe valve over.  Tightened it a bit today but that didn't do it.  May have to take it off and check it as they replaced it recently.  Could be somewhere else too.

It is now charged up and starting -running pretty good -- seems smooth on all six.

[glenn kangiser]

Found wiring diaagrams and manuals courtesy another forum and Autozone.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairLanding.htm

[MountainDon]

Good resource!  

That woke up some dormant brain cells...  

First thing:    One upgrade you might be interested in is the disributor. The GM HEI distributor from a '78-'84 250 cu inch six is a near drop in for the AMC 258 cu.inch engine. This gives you a reliable high voltage electronic all-in-one distributor that you can buy parts for at just about any place that sells auto parts. Since it's all-in-one it's a simple matter to carry one as a complete spare, rather than all the individual parts.

You need to replace or modify the distributor shaft drive gear. That's it! You can either  remove the gear from the stock 258 distributor and grind it down to match the length of the GM gear. That usually works. Or you can buy AMC part number 3208615, the gear for an '83 and later AMC V-8.  Chrysler sells the gear for a mint.  Four Wheel Drive Hardware  http://www.4wd.com/subcategories.aspx?cid=10&jeep-sid=13&pg=3  (scroll down a ways or if it doesn't come up, search the AMC part number) also sells the gear for a better price.

Links to websites about this swap are:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/electrical/hei02/
http://www.geocities.com/jeeperaz/hei.htm
... and a link with a list of all the years/models of Chevy & GMC donor vehicles
http://www.mesa4x4.com/tech_articles/258_hei/258_hei.html

Second thing:    I've bought a couple of these distributors and other stuff, like a hard to find AMC 401 V-8 flywheel and pulley set, a few years back from Parts Mike in Auburn, CA. Don't recall the price but it came with the proper gear installed. He also sells a plug wire set that fits well. Saves hunting around.  http://www.partsmike.com/   (530)885-0673

PartsMike also has diagrams for smog hookups and wiring I believe.

Third thing:    He also hosts/moderates a 4X4 forum, a good all 'round 4X4 info source for any make 4X4.    http://www.partsmike.com/forum/index.php

[glenn kangiser]

Now those are some valuable resources.

Thanks, Don.

[MountainDon]

I also had the GM distributor advance re-curved on one engine by an ignition shop, but that was only because the engine also had a load of other mods... hi-comp pistons, torquey cam, header, electronic fuel injection...    . The stockers usually run pretty good with stock Jeep initial advance and the advance curve built in to the GM distributor.

It's also possible to build some cool real torquey 4.6 to 4.9 stroker engines based on a combination of 4.0 (newer) and 258 (older) engines along with customer machine work. I'd love one. Have a friend in the 4x club with one.

I also have some tricks for the Cherokee XJ automatic tranny. The AW-4. In the Cherokee XJ the gear selector is marked P - R - N - D - 3 - 2/1   There is no way to control whether or not the tranny computer will use 2nd or 1st. It judges by throttle position and speed over the ground. Very annoying when you are wanting to crawl or keep it in 2nd or 1st specifically for grade retard. There is a way to make it do what you want. I'll expand on this if anyone wants me to. It would probably void any warranty, but it's also reversible.

Various Jeep and 4X4 manual in PDF form
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/

[benevolance]

Don

GM HEI is easily one of GM's best accomplishments...

I even use the Gm modules out of the HEI on my mopars to make them electronic ignition

Just mount the module on the inner fender by the distributor and you are good to go... run 2 wires and you are about set...

[glenn-k]

Thanks for the link Don- lots of good info there.

Good tip on the HEI, Peter.  It looks like it may be able to be used in the same manner for the wifes electro-shock therapy. :-/  

I tried curing some of her aches and pains with a magneto but she's wise to that now.  Possibly I could slip the HEI in a box over on her.  

Other info on the HEI Jeep swap.  http://www.geocities.com/jeeperaz/hei.htm

[glenn-k]

Bush Hog is here.  Not too much evidence to show that it was hit by a out of control 18 wheeler.



Mike fixed up nearly everything on it.  Biggest thing left is the hood crack, and when I stop playing with it I may get that fixed.



More accessories on the way -- top - snow plow - power dumper for the bed - maybe even the gun rack -- already has beer holders.

[benevolance]

Glenn

GM had easily the best electronics...I mean every piece of machinery I see pretty much as a 2 wire Gm altenator... tractors loaders forklifts etc....

the HEI really is a super swap...Works great and is easy to do...

I remember years ago when I was a kid I switched my corvair to electronic ignition... Bought a kit out of a magazine and bolted a petronix into the stock distributor...

That worked like a charm as well... I bought an extra one for the glove box for long trips from the house too

All these old vehicles...Amazing how much difference better exhaust, modern tires and electronic ignition makes in the way that they run and drive.

I remember you telling me about messing with your turbo dodge pick up...So I know you are a believer in the free power and fuel economy that is just sitting in the exhaust system waiting to be unleashed.

[glenn-k]

The Jeep has already been converted to the single wire GM alternator.

Works great.

All of the sudden I have so much new junk around here ganged up on me at once I don't know which way to go first.

..but many times opportunity only knocks once so I have to open the door for it to take advantage of it.

[glenn-k]

I got the smog done on the jeep.  It has a few issues - one low cylinder and what seems to be a famous leaking valve cover.  Seems the 258 is notorious for that.

I decided the A/C would be working last night so I kept at it until it was.  Heavy current draw was blowing fuses after I found the wire they had pulled loose because of that.  Checked the squirrel cage - it wasn't turning.  Grabbed it with a pair of long nose pliers and shook the insulation (mouse nest?) loose and blew it out.

Got out the trusty Generic Duracool (TM) --(propane) cylinder and recharged it.  No pump down - change or anything -- just purge the manifold lines and fill it.  Works great.  

How -- that underfloor light rumble made me crawl under and check the drive shaft - yup - front u-joint is out.  A quick evaluation confirmed I might make it to the parts house and back.  Got it and am about ready to crawl under and do it.