In order to use 8' studs below and 4' knee wall above, would the kneewall be ok just being nailed to the floor? I've noticed that it's been called a hinge joint. But it would give a bit more room upstairs. Would I be better off forgetting that idea and planning on using 12' studs and losing a bit of headroom?
Jared
I think PEG's advice to avoid the hinge joints is good -besides I like balloon framing. Possibly you could go to longer studs if height was a problem. It looks like the 1 1/2 uses 10' studs so 12' studs would be taller already. I don't know about outward forces changing - if it's a problem with the higher sides or not, but would be worse with hinged walls. I don't remember if John's posted anything about this or not.
My 2 cents , as I'm the hinge point guy , I really like to get all my parts working together , laps on joints weather they are "hinge "points in framing or trim joints at finish .
from experience the further away those joist can be made based on the material bieng used the better off everything will be , more flush , easer to plane in , less BUMPS , buldges , etc .
When I frame , which is often , I decide to use my sheathing either vertital , or horz. , I use 9' sheets when it works better to tie a knee wall , to a upper wall and "brake " my joints so platfrom framing is not so" Hingie"
This also "helps " in planing out wall diference's , siding bumps and also ties though this lapping , the walls inot a contunios box beam of sorts .
Most builder do not do this and they pass code , is it ok , yes .
So a lot of me is , "Just me " . I always look for a better way to get it all right , STILL LOOKING , but I still have to try :) PEG
I do get asked this question a lot. The way I have structured the roof, with site built trusses, I feel there may be some outward thrust to that long rafter and thus feel the balloon framed sidewall helps stiffen the wall and eliminates a "hinge" joint.
That said, I may be too conservative. Especially if you have a truss company or engineer design the truss - someone who knows your specific design conditions. It could be that outward forces are insignificant and you could build the roof on a 1/2 height pony wall and eliminate the ledger and long studs. It would certainly be easier (this is what is done in the Universal Cottage - two simple floors each with platform framed walls).
Putting in dormers is also relatively easy and several people have added this to their plans. I will be adding a downloadable detail for this in the support files at PlanHelp.com (the subscription site).
Wouldn't balloon framing eat up a little height on the walls since part of the 10' (or 12') wall stud is sitting beneath the plywood floor?
Jared
It would but realistically if you if you have them of exactly the same height using longer studs on the balloon, with the floor at exactly the same elevation using exactly the same flooring and ceiling materials, then they would work out exactly the same, but the balloon wall upstairs would be much stronger- resisting outward forces of the steep pitch roof. If the hinged sections both folded out the roof would spread and fall the second floor level. The solid studs tied in with the second floor joists would much more effectively resist that. Sometimes it is easier to exagerate things in your mind to see what will happen in a given situation. Remember the effects of gravity, wind, earthquakes, tornadoes, and leverage to help visualize this happeniing. Did I miss any. How about foundation - soft ground - hard ground relative to the size of the footing. :-/
Possibly some stud waste to make them the same unless you use the full longer stud- which may put you up a little higher. :)
Just to clear this up. I have designed the first floor as a platform frame and have the balloon framed walls sitting on top of this platform (the 10' or 12' long studs sit on top of the main level subfloor). Thus the total height of the wall with plates is 10' - 4.5" or 12' - 4.5".
In true, old fashioned balloon framing the stud extends below the subfloor all the way down to the sill. There is no advantage in doing that here. Only the loft floor is balloon framed.
Ok, I was under the impression that the whole house was balloon framed. I'm having a heck of a time designing this thing where I can fit a couch, one chair and my entertainment center. I need a dining room for our table, which is solid oak, and our first purchase as a married couple. (We've only been together a year this month) We won't get rid of the table, so I may have to switch house plans. Got any ideas? The bedroom door should be hinged and the "window" between the kitchen and dining room would actually be a framed opening.
Here's as far as I've gotten on the second floor.
My wife and I prefer open areas and have removed walls in our old house and rental to keep from having the boxed in feeling. Sometimes if there is not a wall there then a couch can divide room space. Just an idea. :-/
I need to add a wall for the kitchen. My wife wants it not to be so open in case she doesn't quite get the kitchen clean then it won't be there for all to see. Is it just me, or in the original drawing for the 1.5 story, does the staircase extend over part of the bedroom door? It might be worth buying one of those stacked washer/dryers just to keep the floor plan the same. I really don't want to extend it past the original 30', just because I like the way it looks. I'm looking at the picture of the house and trying to find a place for a doorway for a later addition. If anything, I'd add size to the bathroom to add in the water heater, washer and dryer if I don't go with the stacked one. At most I'd add two feet on the length for the dining table.
Jared
Unless you do a dormer, I don't think you are going to have enough head room at the top of the stair?
I added a bumpout in the living area for added seating. I figured this would free up a lot of floor space that the couch otherwise would have taken. This was easily done by extending the floor joists 24". I put a simple shed roof over that portion.
Another point, Jared - my wife like yours, doesn't like dishes showing. Partly for that and for ease of use she made me change the sink out to an extra deep one in the cabin- this one is stainless - the one in our other house is cast iron - it spoiled her for wanting the deep sink. A few dishes in it don't show much -to me it just means I can pile them deeper. :)
Good point about not having enough room at the top of the stairs. I'm trying to do the exterior in 3DHA and I'm having hell trying to get a roof over the house and a seperate roof over the porch. It keeps wanting to make them both one roof. I searched the Broderbund site, but it didn't mention anything. Got any help so I can post pics of what I want? And how do I make a multi level house?
Jared
John has a 3DHA tutorial here - which you may have seen. http://www.countryplans.com/3dha/index.html
I don't think the company supports it and some things can't be done - that's about all I know about it-I've only played with it a little.
All I need now is a roof over that little bit of porch in the front and i can't find how to do it on the tutorial.
3DHA does have its limits. Not sure if you can model what you want but would guess that you need to hip the corner and wrap that roof around the front. I would try making that another "room" with an invisable wall if needed and then try rebuilding roofs.
Sorry, I'm not an expert here.
Quote(http://www.countryplans.com/images/mick-3.jpg)
"Are ther ways to adjust the head room for the 1 1/2 storey?"
This thread started with the above question and concerns the 20' wide 1-1/2 story plan (http://www.jshow.com/y2k/listings/50.html).
It was renamed after Micky stepped forward and explained how he built his cottage. (edited by John R.)
Hi,
I just bought the plans for the 1 1/2 story. Really admire your house and was wondering what type of siding you used - looks real nice!
Pam
The lap siding is Hardie Plank. http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/prodhome/hardiplank.php
The shake that I used on the gable ends and bump out is Nichiha. http://www.nichiha.com/sierrapremshake.htm
The Nichiha is similar to the Hardie except it is 1/2" thick versus 5/16". This gave it a thicker profile that looked closer to cedar shake. Also, the stainer said the Hardie Shake is very fragile. I was very impressed with the Nichiha.
I had them both pre-stained locally with masons select. The stain was designed for the cement siding. http://www.superdeck.com/masonsselect/6700spec.htm
My goal was to have something that looked close to rustic but very low maintenance.
I like what I see and read. I couldn't find the pitch on the roof. Thanks, Dave
The 1.5 story cottage plans (as drawn) have a 12:12 pitch for headroom in the loft areas. Folks can and have adjusted that somewhat if they have things like a height restriction.
Very good threads here, I just bought land on the Black River in Québec, and I am considering building Micky's 1.5 story cottage. :D
Sounds great Sevi. If you get any pictures please feel free to post them.
We are putting together a materials list for the 1 1/2 story and were wondering can 4x12 beams be used for an exposed ceiling throughout the cabin? If so what is the approved spacing and span?
As far as the 4 x 12 beams go there are a couple of factors to consider.
The most important is species. If you are considering something like Douglas Fir and they are of high quality (#1 or better) then you could probably do that. I believe that is what Mickey used. Any other species might not have the strength. Ask your local building inspector.
Also spacing of the beams obviously. The weaker the beam, the closer the spacing of the beams.
Overall, depends on type of wood!
Yes, for the loft framing plan on sheet 5 you can substitute D/F #1 or select structural 4x12's. You could also use glulam or LVL beams. Do check that out locally, of course.
I thought this house was really most impressive and certainly encourages me to consider getting my finger out and building one.
We bought the 20' 1-1/2 story cottage plans and are almost finished building. Mickey's house is very much like ours. I hope to figure out how to post our "story" and photos soon. I was looking at the staircase photo and this is how ours will be laid out. I would like to know the dimensions of this staircase, it looks steep, which is what ours will be. Could Mickey please share the specifics! Thanks, Amy
It is steep. I kept the dimensions the same as John detailed on the plans. It is a tradeoff between how steep the stairs are versus the floor space they take up. Floor space won.
John's plan also has an option for stairs wraping around the landing. The would help not make it as steep, but may also by a little tricky to navigate.
Also, 30" is pretty narrow for the width. However, it should allow room for the stove pipe to be routed up through the opening in the ceiling between the stairs and joist.
Here is a link to a drawing I made to help me cut the stairs.
I would love to see some of your pictures. The snow has finally melted so I am getting back to work this weekend.
Even though it's steep, does it still feel safe to use? thanks
Thank you so much for the link to the stair construction. Did you use these exactly, or did you make them steeper? I will look again at John's stair plan. I hope to get my photo's submitted soon, like I mentioned, out cabin looks somewhat like yours, only we have a half loft with a cathedral style greatroom and a dormer in the loft. I would love to see some interior shots of your place if you ever get around to it!
Amy
The stairs feel "safe" to me. But that is realitive. My young kids can go up and down, but we have to be carefull. I don't think my grandparents will be going upstairs. Hopefully it will be better when I get the railings installed.
Make sure that if you put a window at the landing that it is tempered glass. If someone trips down the stairs there is a chance they could hit the window and break it.
I built the stairs to the drawings I attached in the previous post. I based this drawing off of John's plans.
Micky, is your cabin in the Nicola Valley area?
Your stained cement board siding was mentioned in another thread. I was wondering who manufactured the siding and the stain, or did it come pre-stained?
Micky...looking at the pictures, I would never have thought it was sided with cement board. Looks really nice. I like real wood, myself, but in talking to others, they like something that is rather maintenance free. Our house in the valley has wood siding & was just painted approx 2 1/2 yrs ago & it has been chipping off in places already... :(
Bartholomew, Our place is in Northern Idaho.
The lap siding is Hardie Plank. http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/prodhome/hardiplank.php
The shake that I used on the gable ends and bump out is Nichiha. http://www.nichiha.com/sierrapremshake.htm
The Nichiha is similar to the Hardie except it is 1/2" thick versus 5/16". This gave it a thicker profile that looked closer to cedar shake. Also, the stainer said the Hardie Shake is very fragile. I was very impressed with the Nichiha.
I had them both pre-stained locally with masons select. The stain was designed for the cement siding. http://www.superdeck.com/masonsselect/6700spec.htm
The Nichiha also comes prestained from the factory. The factory also uses Mason's Select. This work well because I was a little short on the Nichiha. I was able to order it stained from the factory and it matched what I had stained by a local company.
Great, thanks a lot for the info
Micky..
Do you have any updated pictures of this area?
(http://www.countryplans.com/images/mick-5.jpg)
Here is a picture from last fall. We didn't get much work done over the winter (too cold, dark & snowy). I am having the plumbing and elec inspection this Friday. Hopefully I will have the upstairs bathroom sheetrocked this weekend if all goes well. I will take more pictures then.
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Thanks Micky.. That looks like how we will live in ours for a while. Build it as I save. That picture will help my wife visualize where I am headed with ours.
QuoteThe lap siding is Hardie Plank. http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/prodhome/hardiplank.php
The shake that I used on the gable ends and bump out is Nichiha. http://www.nichiha.com/sierrapremshake.htm
The Nichiha is similar to the Hardie except it is 1/2" thick versus 5/16". This gave it a thicker profile that looked closer to cedar shake. Also, the stainer said the Hardie Shake is very fragile. I was very impressed with the Nichiha.
I had them both pre-stained locally with masons select. The stain was designed for the cement siding. http://www.superdeck.com/masonsselect/6700spec.htm
My goal was to have something that looked close to rustic but very low maintenance.
Micky,
What color stain did you use? Mahogany?
Now that it has been up for a while and weathered a little, have you noticed and changes, blemishes, or such?
You are right, Mahogany.
It has only been up since last Fall. I have not noticed any change. I don't expect it to change much....
Here are some updated photos if anyone is interested. We still have some major projects (ie cabinets, finish stairs, floors & porch), but the inside is finally starting to come together.
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Looks really nice, especially like the bay window/seat! Keep those pictures coming - are you living in it now? There's always those "details" to finish... :-/ :)
Sassy
Great Job! Very Cottagy! Is that a word? Cottagy?
Jimmy, In the West we call these cabins, so I think the term is Cabiny. Cottages are too up-class.
Sassy, This is only a vacation place. So we have been "living in" it since the subfloor was on. Kindof fun if it is only on the weekends.
Nice window seat Micky! You did a nice job on the decking as well.
Oh how I do love your window seat! And with those trees just outside I think I'd be spending way too much time sitting there watching for local wildlife when I should be working.
I found myself mentally wandering around our home here at the Duckpond, wondering if we perhaps had a window where I could persuade Jonni to build us a window seat!
We used to have one in our old house in England, upstairs in one of the bedrooms. It was actually a priest's hole, and had steps that went down to the cellar.
cecilia
www.duckpond-design.com.au/theduckpond
Mickey, Very nice job. If you don't mind me asking, whta was the cost for getting it framed in and sheathed? We are planning on building the same 20' wide 1 1/2 story in the north central mountains of Pa. How long did you make the cabin?
A priest's hole with a window? (and hidden steps to a little noticed exit?)
Cecilia, tell us more.
Pete, We had about $25K into the foundation, framing, sheathing, siding, window, roofing and some of the elec and plumbing. We did all of the work ourselves accept the foundation. The power, water, and septic was already run when we bought the property.
We streched the lenght to 32'. I figured this worked better with material sizes and added a little to the bedroom and dining room.
Hi Amanda
My post didn't give a very good description of priest's hole, did it!
In the time (around Henry VIII) all the catholic priests were being persecuted and many were hidden by local catholic families.
The priests hole was actually a narrow passage which was accessed by lifting the lid of the window seat, hopping onto a ladder and nipping down, lowering the wooden seat over your head as you went down.
Don't forget that in those old houses the walls were about three feet thick!
Ah - good memories of my village childhood.
cecilia
Sounds like an interesting house, Cecilia.
QuoteJimmy, In the West we call these cabins, so I think the term is Cabiny. Cottages are too up-class.
That's very interesting, it make me wonder if my wife would have given the approval to build a cabin rather than a cottage.
I guess it is all in the terminology..
Micky... Thanks for posting the inside photos. The place looks great and I'm sure your family is enjoying it. Are you planning to add any porches to enjoy those northern Idaho summer evenings?
Micky,
Debbie and I are looking forward to more photos ... the house is great.
awesome job looks great? I am getting really inspired by everyone on this site. any updates. thanks Mike
Love your cabin. We just bought a lot in the Adirondacks and I've been looking for plans to put a small cabin on it. Your pictures have inspired me!! Great Job!!!
Micky,
Love your cabin. Have actually seen it in person as my sister has one across the canal from you. I just bought the plans from John and am planning on putting one up on the other side of the lake (pretty much in the town of Priest Lake). Was wondering what the total square footage of yours is with the 12 footers being used to make more room in the loft? I need 1000 sq. ft. to satisfy the covenants on my place. All the pictures of your cabin have helped to motivate me (and convince my wife). We are probably in for more than we know but I can't wait to start. Thanks in advance.
Ron Nelson
Welcome to the forum, Ron. It will be great to watch your progress. John will now have a mini-planned community there. We may have to lump him in with the big developers soon. :)
Hey Ron,
I tried to call the county to see what they considered usable square footage for a vaulted ceiling like this. The person I talked with didn't know.
In a previous post John mentioned that anything over 5' height is counted towards usable square footage. http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1172769823. The walls upstairs are about 3' high. That leaves 15' of floorspace that is more than 5' tall.
So,
2nd floor (15'x 32'): 480 sq-ft
1st floor (20'x 32'): 640 sq-ft
Bump-out (2'x 8'): 16 sq-ft
Total: 1136 sq-ft
Hope that helps...
Feel free to stop by to take a look inside or to ask anymore questions. We are there most weekends.
Micky,
Thanks for the numbers, looks like I'll be okay with the covenants. Didn't think to ask the county when I called today, I think I was a little punch drunk after finding out who and how much I have to pay before I ever drive onto the property. I will swing by and look at your place if I get to that side of the Lake. By the way, my sis has a crawl space, I believe you have a slab. What made you go with this? My dad (who built his own cabin in 1981 off grid) says I need a crawl space in case there are problems with plumbing, etc. I don't know if this is prehistoric thinking or what. I tend to think of him as the smartest man in the world when it comes to building anything. It would be great to hear what you think and what you based your decision on. What about price? I suppose the mud has to come from Priest River right? Sorry to ramble, my head is just spinning.
Thanks again,
Ron Nelson
I also did the crawlspace. I agree with your Dad that it makes the plumbing & electrical much easier to run. I think the crawlspace also gives a little more buffer incase high ground water becomes an issue.
I paid Jim Holland $4130 for the foundation work (including materials). I also paid Kevin Storro $935 for the site prep & backfilling. It wasn't cheap getting the concrete all the way up there. Jim also needed to use a pumper because the ground was too sandy for the trucks.
Good luck!
I hate to take you back in time Micky but is there any chance that you have any more photos of exactly how you installed your second story (loft) joist to the outer stud wall? You mentioned in one of your first posts in this thread that you used a ledger and in one of your photos there is a far away shot.. but I wanted to see it a little more up close if this is possible.
ttfn
CV
We are finally to a point where I can post some more pictures. Next we are on to the upstairs.
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Looks great, Micky. Thanks for updating it. :)
Bet you all are really enjoying the cottage :) Looks great - you've done a really nice job 8-)
Nice place.... you did a great job!!!
What type of flooring did you use?
What type of cabinets? Love that big sink!!
and.... what type countertops are they?
Thanks,
The flooring is solid "rustic maple".
The cabinets and sink are both from Ikea. They were a great price and well engineered. Ikea is fairly good quality for the money.
The countertops are concrete. I used Buddy Rhodes product. //www.buddyrhodes.com He charges a lot of money for ready-mix, but I think it was worth it for a beginner because it is all designed for the application.
Micky, I have a couple quick ?'s for you. What size joists did you use for the 2nd floor and are they 24"OC? Also, do you place the 2nd floor joists on a let in ledger? It looks like you notched the studs out and set a ledger in there. What size was the ledger? By the way the place looks fantastic!!!!!!!!!!! I hope mine turns out as nice as yours. Thanks Pete
I used 4x12 douglas fir. They are on 48" centers You are correct with the let-in ledger. This ledger was a 2x6.
All per John's plans. I think there has been other posts with more details on this method.
Thanks for the info Micky. Pete
It has been a long while since I posted an update. It also looks like some of the early posts of this thread were lost. So I thought I would add pictures of the progress and give some background.
We started building the 1-1/2 story in Spring of 2005. We made a lot of progress the first couple of summers. Our pace has relaxed the last couple of summers now that it is mostly done and livable. The only two major projects left is the front porch and finish the stairs.
We have stuck mostly to the original 20x30 plans except for:
- 12' walls to give more livable space upstairs
- Increased length to 32' to give a little more room
- Add a bump-out to increase the living room space (saves room by not needing a big couch)
I would say John's plans are amazing. We have done all the work ourselves starting out as very novice builders. His plans are simple and very efficient.
The exposed wood ceiling looks great. We found a local mill that supplied rough cut 4x12 DF. This really set the character. However, it did make adding the upstairs bathroom a little tricky by needing to hide the plumbing. The stairs are also very steep, but this is a good tradeoff for not taking up much room.
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The foudation was poored just before as winter came. It is ready for Spring Build!
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Started framing March 5, 2004
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Wall raising part! April 2, 2004
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Does it count as being "dried in" if we had to sleep in a tent? June 20, 2005
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Here are some pics of our work on the interior...
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Kitchen from Ikea. Great Bargin and fair quality.
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Pouring the concrete couters.
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Hardwood floor help.
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(https://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp226/mickys-cabin/2008-10-05PIC3.jpg)
(https://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp226/mickys-cabin/2008-10-05PIC4.jpg)
(https://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp226/mickys-cabin/LIIVING3.jpg)
An attempt an a pamoramic picture of the living room...
(https://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp226/mickys-cabin/LIVING2.jpg)
Thanks for the update, Micky. Unfortunately some of the posts got lost and that was why we had to switch forum software. The old one just started losing stuff - couldn't keep up with our growth.
Progress looks good.
Looking good Mickey. Thanks for the pictures.
Off the topic... you ever wonder about those spots that appear in some of the pictures? Dust in the air reflecting the flash. You probably figured it out already. FWIW.
Glen, Thanks. I figured it was something with the old software. I updated the old post because I kind of like how many times it has been viewed. Is old forum still archived to copy over some of the lost text?
Don, I have no idea what causes the dots. It always seems to happen in odd light conditions. We just bought a new camera that is nicer than our previous. Hopefully we will not have that problem anymore.
Micky, John tried to save what he could - then spammers got into the old forum even though it was locked as well as we could and still access it- I don't think it can be recovered.
That is a very nice looking place!! :)
Re: Spots on some images... here's the culprit...
(https://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp226/mickys-cabin/2008-06-08-PIC1.jpg)
Dust in the air when the flash goes off. I figured it out with my new camera. I noticed them on the post-view right after taking a couple shots. We had been sanding ceiling T&G. I forced the flash to remain off and tried again with natural light and they never appeared. So my conclusion was/is; fine airborne dust particles.
That's near genius, Don.... thanks for solving that one....
I have a dirty mind. :o ::) :-[
Micky, When you did your metal roof, how did you install the ridge cap? I undestand how to do the panels just not sure how to get up to the ridge to do the cap? Pete
The only way I know of to install the roof ridge cap is to get up on top and screw it down. Or hire a guy to do it for you. But somebody is going to have to get up there.
Is that what you meant? ???
Kind of, just trying to figure out how to get up there safely.
If you don't want to do all of the extra stuff, a padded and staked down long extension ladder will get you up there. Your safety on that one depends on it being well secured on the ground as it can slide down at that angle.
I like the "bump out" (not sure if that is the correct term) in Micky's home. How are you able to create this? Do you have to put additional posts for a post and beam foundation? I would really like to put exactly the same size as he did (2x8 foot). Someone please tell me how to frame for this.
Depending on how you are framed and where you want it you could just extend your floor joists - cantilever if not too heavy although I think a properly braced box framing would support it fine, or add a couple of piers.
Pete, You are right, the ridge is a little tricky. I did most of it with a climbing rope and harness.
Alcowboy, The bump out was pretty simple. Like Glen said, I just used longer floor joists and let it cantilever. I framed the wall with a header just like it was a big window so the cantilever supports very little weight.
Great! Thanks! For some reason I did not think of extended the floor joists.
When we all get together we're real geniuses. d*
Very nice, I want my cabin to be like yours when it grows up. :D
cabin looks great. Love the concrete countertops!
I thought I would post some updated pics with the front porch we added this summer.
(https://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp226/mickys-cabin/IMG_4373-1.jpg)
(https://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp226/mickys-cabin/IMG_4378-1.jpg)
(https://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp226/mickys-cabin/IMG_4375-1.jpg)
Hey Micky, that looks very nice. I bet you hate to leave there.
Very nice! :)
Looks terrific! what did you use for the horizontal posts (newels?) between the wooden posts?
Sassy,
All the wood for the railing was either 4x4 or 4x6 timbers from Homedepot. They were green Fir. I ran them trough the planer to change the look from dimensional lumber and give a nice finished surface. Gives the Timber-Framed look. The 6x6 posts were dried S4S Fir.
I used rebar for the balusters that I had powder coated.