Plans are done, Permits pulled, and Basement/Septic should be started this May. Location is 40 Acres near Bryce Canyon. I hired a contractor for the Basement and Septic but will be building the rest myself. As long as the contractor doesn't Back-out it should be poured by end of May. I've had lots of problems finding a contractor that was willing to do the job and cost a lot more than I had planned because of how remote it is and lack of contractors near by.
Land:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2914/33777844400_149e3bd8ac_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TsQhkA)20170417_154858 (https://flic.kr/p/TsQhkA) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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Plans:
Front Elevation:
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Rear elevation:
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Rt:
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Lt
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Cross:
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More of the plans:
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Welcome to the forum and good luck with the foundation work. Will this be a residence or a getaway cabin?
Thanks. Getaway cabin until I retire then a summer home. To much snow in the winters for my liking.
My eyes can't read the plan notes so this might all be in there, the collar tie section drawing, rafter ties should be in the lower third of roof height unless the ridge is designed as a beam. The ledger for the loft should be notched into the studs rather than simply nailed to them. Then the loft joists pass over the ledger and nail into the sides of the studs providing more tie to the building. Don't forget to fireblock between studs there between the floors and in all the walls that exceed 10' in height to cut down on the chimney effect if a fire does get into a wall. Best luck in May.
Thanks Don_P for taking a look at the plans. Its just a ridge board not a beam. The loft is supported by 6x12 beams 4' on center and the second floor will be 2x6 T&G. the beams sit on 3-2x6 and then bolted into a stud. The plans call for either an entire 2nd floor and its also engineered for the last 12' in the living room to be open. Ill probably go with just a partial loft. Will be blocking at 8' max need blocking for the shear walls too. Any advice is welcome. One place in the plans it does say ridge beam though its only 1- 13/4x117/8 lvl because we started off with a ridge beam, but it didn't work out so we went with a ridge board and the engineer forgot to change it and I didn't catch it tell later. Cost more money for the change and to print out the new plans so I left it, the inspector was ok with it thankfully.
Bet you can hardly wait for the contractor to get going. Thanks for sharing. You plans are very similar to what we have planned; look forward to following your build.
Work started again. The contractor will be working on the basement and septic the next couple weeks.
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Great start! Looking good. :)
Great looking foundation. That is a beautiful area of the country.
Have a question about my deck post. On the long side of the cabin and a few on the ends I have 6x6 post that go from the footer to the upper beam for the deck rafters for the covered deck. My question is my plans call for 2-2x12 beam to support the deck joist that also connects to that post. What is the best way to support the beam to the post since the post continues up to the covered deck. If I notch the post I would be removing 3" and leave only 2.5" in the post. Ive read numerous places that this is acceptable since the beam inside the notch then bolted returns most of the strength to the post, but seem like a lot of material to remove. I considered going to 8x8 post but with length and the number of post that will add almost 2k to the cost. Simpson does have Huc212-2 connectors. They are used as a doubled joist connector and not a beam but since its only supporting the deck the calcs look strong enough but it comes at a cost too but not nearly as bad as 8x8. I could also put in separate post from the footing just for beams to sit on top of and not use the post. Anyone experience this and have any ideas, not much I can find in building codes or the IRC deck construction guide for this.
Thanks
I'm not confident that I'm fully grasping what you describe, but it seems that if the deck and posts can be built in stages rather than one continuous post then you should be fine taking out the 3" notch. This seems common-sense-like, so I'm probably wrong. d*
I was concerned at first that the HUC212-2 isn't heavy duty enough. Simpson reports the max load capacity in doug fir as 3275 lbs (https://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/wood-construction-connectors/technical-notes/face-mount-hanger-loads/solid-sawn-df-sp). Deck loads are supposed ot be calculated at 40 psf live and 10 psf dead load. The biggest area is the upper deck, which looks to be about 8'x20', supported by the wall and by the two corner posts. Total load is 8,000 lbs. The part I forgot is that the wall is supporting half that load, so the beam has 4,000 lbs, and each corner has 2,000 lbs. Looks good to me as long as you can afford the hangers and all the nails to hang them.
Edit for afterthought: the hangers hold great against shear loads. if you use them, do you have a way to resist tension? In a deck the deck boards overlap the rim joists and effectively counter any spreading forces that would cause the hangers to pull away. If you hang a beam with the brackets, what other than the nails holds the beam against the post?
If you look at the photos above especially 104212 which is the the deck joist layout and 104155 is the deck rafters you can get an idea what I'm talking about. I can click on the picture and it will enlarge not sure if you can if not u wont be able to read the plans and specs. Not sure what u mean by building the the deck and post up in stages. It seems like it's better to have it one continuous post so there's no hinge points. In stages would it be a post from the footer with the beam sitting on top of that then another post that sits on top of that beam that goes to the roof? The idea I came up with is to make it a 6x8 which decreases the cost in half rather than going to a 8x8. Then I can notch 3" into the bottom area of that post (depending on the height the beam needs to be at) for the 2-2x12 that make up the beam for the deck joist. And the same on the top of that post for the 2-2x10 that make up the beam for the rafters. Seems best way since one continuous post from footer to roof and no hinge points. But it does come at a cost still.
The nails would be the only thing holding the beam to the post if I went with the simpson connector. Unless I'm missing something.
Thanks for the ideas. Maybe I'm not understanding the building it in stages idea and maybe that's the common way to do it. I've asked numerous people who are contractors that i work with and have gotten 20 different ideas with none sounding like it's a common practice. That they were just shooting out ideas. Online was the same, I searched everywhere and can't find any pics of it.
I'll preface my comments with the statement that I'm not a pro and haven't looked at the IRC on decks in a while. By building in stages, I mean to describe a deck built similar to how platform construction works on a house. The first "wall" is formed by the posts that go from the footer to the main deck. This will need to be adequately braced. The joists and decking of the main deck form the "floor" The posts going up to the rafters (or the upper deck) form the "second story wall". I'll venture to say that most porches are built in this manner. The load from the roof is transmitted to the deck floor, which is borne by the post below. The floor forms a diaphragm that resists movement at the hinge point. That's the theory with platform construction, but decks are not built with full shear walls so it isn't fully achieved with the skeletal structure.
I still don't know if notching a 6x6 is viable, but if you treat it like a timber frame post, you design for the core of the post to be strong enough and allow for the exterior portion of the post to be carved away for joinery. Looking at Don P's toolbox calculator (http://www.timbertoolbox.com/Calcs/Simple_column.htm), 1 post formed by the core (2.5 inches by 5.5 inches) with an unbraced length of 108 inches can support up to 2100 lbs. So in theory a 2.5x5.5 could be strong enough to hold up the deck. This is calculated using #2 doug fir.
That's cutting it pretty close, and doesn't take into consideration what the snow load from the roof might be. So you're probably wise to step up to the 6x8.
EDIT: Okay, once I posted I thought on this some more. I don't think you need to take out a full 3" across the entire post. Generally all you need to support a joist is 1.5 inches. So a post that is 5.5" x 5.5" will have two notches take out, each 1.5" x 3". That gives you an additional 2.5" x 3" of post remaining that didn't go into the calculation above. It makes for an awkward calculation to determine what the buckling strength of the post will be, and I don't have the training to do it. But I suspect that it will be dramatically higher than for the post I analyzed.
The back elevation shows no central post supporting the upper deck. That means the girder spans a full 20', or more like 19'. Will the girder there be a doubled 2x12? I ask because the beam calculator for #2 doug fir with a load of 4,000 lbs shows a max span of 104 inches.
I do this pretty often with railings and did run it by the engineering professor that helped write DCA-6, and the articles on railings and ledgers for decks in the trade mags. He groaned a bit but could understand my thinking. An unbroken post for a railing is much better support than a deck support post and a separate railing post. I notch 2.25" deep with is as deep as a 7.25" skilsaw blade will go and fully supports the inner ply of the girder and half the thickness of the outer ply, then bolt the girder through the post. I've used the same method for porches several times, works fine. More often I'll platform frame (building it in stages) due to material lengths. The perceived hinge is laterally supported by the deck so not a real hinge point. There is a serious uplift concern though, so if you do that I run a plate of steel from the inside of the notch, between the girder and post and vertically up into the porch post, bolting through girder, steel and post. The post sits over the steel knife plate and is pinned and plugged through post and steel. Your solution is better time and strengthwise. Thye material removed is not replaced, the shrinkage will remove that tight infill. The column strength required in that notch area is more than likely adequate, you might want to check that but it has not been the control in ones I have done.
Thanks for all the great advice. I think I'll go with notching a 6x8. I do like hearing that building in stages is a good way to go because I may have to do that on the one end because those post go all the way to the top of the 12 wall were the rest only go 8' so i may run into a length issue, being to long since that will be the lowest dirt elevation. Since its on the down hill side. Contractor told me it's 30 below top of wall though it seems alot lower in the pics we will see when they back fill. But 30" plus 12" for I Joist then 12 wall is a long post.
The rear upper deck will end up getting a middle post probably. The engineer called for 2- 2x16 lvl but they don't make exterior grade lvl made to be in constant weather so i decided to put in a 3rd post I haven't looked to see what size beam to got to span the 20' to leave it as is. There's already a footer for a middle post if needed
Walls are poured.
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Basement and footers are done. Waiting for them to start the septic. Wood for the floor will be delivered the 26th and the building will start.
Who knew a big concrete hole could be so beautiful. Looks great!
Looking foward to seeing more!
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My 15 yr old son and I got the subfloor on last weekend. Just the 2 of us and it took 2.5 days. 2 of those 10 hour days. He did great never complained once and really seemed to enjoy the project. Would have gotten done sooner but had some delays. Showed up to 1.5" of water in the basement which made framing the stairs that much easier. It did dry out right before we left. One of the generators stopped working, good thing we had a back-up. I also deecided to glue and screw the 11/8 plywood subfloor (suppose to be Advantech but they received plywood instead and I didnt want it to delay another 10 days). If I had it to do over with I would have nailed it with ring shank nails. Screwing it was exhausting and took for ever since the I-joist were 12" on center. I bought a senco self feeding screw gun and had troubles with it thru out the project. Lots of wasted screws and probably 4 hours added onto the project not including the effort. Guess it is better that its screwed down but at the time it didn't seem like it was worth it.
Start the walls on the 19th since my sons team won there state championship and we are now in San Jose for the regional tournament. Delays delays but this one is well worth it.
Oh ya dont forget something in the basement otherwise you have to cut the stairs out. I wanted to leave it covered tell the walls went up for ease and safety but that didn't work out. Ill throw some plywood over it tell we get 1st floor done.
Nice work, we need a shot of you doing the traditional dance on the main floor (dance of victory so to speak).
No one would want to that, trust me.
LOL, I resemble those moves :D
Always glad to see the younger crowd learning skills.
Some cheap mismixed oil based paint or porch/garage floor paint will help keep the water damage down on the ply.
I think it was just south of San Jose there is a neat mission, domes, a cool spiral staircase, buttressed arched grainery.
Whoop, memory jog, it was mission San Jose but south of San Antonio... maybe on your way home ::)
Quote from: ffpara on August 02, 2017, 04:09:24 PM
No one would want to that, trust me.
It's kinda a tradition here.
Very nice ! ;)
All 4 walls being raised. We did it in 20'Wx12'T sections with sheeting on. 3 of us were able to lift them but they were rather heavy. With the sheeting hanging down the 14" to cover the subfloor really helped in stopping the walls from going all the way over, once we got them to the top it would have been a lot of work to push them over. We did have wall jacks just in case we weren't able to lift them but never had to use them. Last 2 pics are videos but not sure if they will work.
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[cool]
That looks really heavy... looks good.
Quote from: ffpara on August 29, 2017, 12:57:02 PMLast 2 pics are videos but not sure if they will work.
Doesn't let you embed them, but clicking on them works fine.
Well done [cool]
Interior beams came next. Stupid me thought 4 people could move a 6"x12"x20' beam but we couldn't even pick them up. We had to cut a hole in the cabin and slide them in, then use pieces of pvc pipe and a cinch strap to move them around. Luckily 2 of my friends/family know ropes and mechanical advantages well and using a quad on the outside as anchors and ropes up over the wall and a mechanical advantage off the top we were able to get a 2:1(all the pulleys we had) and hoist up one end of the beam at a time. Note: if you try this make sure you secure the first end up really well before hoisting the other end. The beams sat on a 6x6 or over a header. We had to lay out the beams so at least one end would sit in an open area between studs and on a 6x6 post. The other end could sit on a header. But you cant get a beam into place if it has to have both ends sit on a header because its to long and cant be swung high enough to clear the studs or header. So take that into consideration when laying out your beams and put your header in after the beam. Beams didn't lay out perfectly, suppose to be 48" OC but had to goto 53" OC on one beam because of this. Was worried about feeling it in the floor but after we put in the 2x6 TG we didn't notice it. The 7 beams took us just short of a day and a half. Its not pictured but installed post under each beam where it sat on the stairs and continued that with another post in the basement stairs wall directly in line. Each beam is bolted to the stud. Had to use lags on some because of spacing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4416/36501417220_2cde722996_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XBviDE)20170823_074258 (https://flic.kr/p/XBviDE) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4355/36063953184_234fc4ba79_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WWRbQh)IMG_70781 (https://flic.kr/p/WWRbQh) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4382/36063951904_8fa4dc76d2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WWRbsd)IMG_70711 (https://flic.kr/p/WWRbsd) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4336/36089935643_9e43f14171_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9mvH)IMG_70731 (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9mvH) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/36089940673_2ae0dd1cb0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9o1r)IMG_70881 (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9o1r) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/36063953414_9db6cf25ed.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WWRbUf)IMG_70861 (https://flic.kr/p/WWRbUf) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Video
Finished the stairway walls for the first to second floor prior to beams. We then finished the stairs to the basement. Used 3 stringers 2x12 and 3/4 Advantech plywood.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/36089940643_c629c4f8ee_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9nZV)IMG_70931 (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9nZV) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4368/36758236131_6f677d6c8f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y1cyXV)IMG_70951 (https://flic.kr/p/Y1cyXV) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/36090042543_3096fc9b09_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9UhP)IMG_20170828_154513_275 (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9UhP) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36090044383_9d1a1b2fc3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9UQx)IMG_20170828_154513_277 (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9UQx) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
One of the last things we got done was the second floor. We used 2x6 T&G. Started off using a deck vise to straighten out the boards and hammer them in. We then switched to ratchet straps and that worked perfectly. Came up 6 boards short of finishing the job. Used 2.5" finish nails into the tongues and faced nailed the joints since it will be covered by interior walls. One mistake I made was not leaving out the bottom 2x6 that the patio door sits on so I could overlap the floor onto it so it would tie the wall in better and look clean. So instead we made a ledger board that fit between the first beam and nailed it to the exterior wall then nailed the floor into it. That wall wont budge now.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4416/36090040943_0a99954bf2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9TPe)IMG_20170828_154513_285 (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9TPe) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4372/36090039523_5cd49cdebf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9ToK)IMG_20170828_154513_296 (https://flic.kr/p/WZ9ToK) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4366/36727324422_9a01f7a600_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XXt8Zq)20170823_193538 (https://flic.kr/p/XXt8Zq) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/36064110584_edc59d3a29_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WWRZC5)20170824_122002 (https://flic.kr/p/WWRZC5) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4351/36898091595_e694af79d2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ydyn82)20170824_122013 (https://flic.kr/p/Ydyn82) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
The framing at the end of the wall is my scaffolding for the length of the end wall and going down the middle to access the ridge board. Will be sheeted with 5/8 plywood.
Next week will be to complete all the exterior posts (6x6) and beams. 2 of them beams are the 6x12x20. The rest are 6x8 for the covered deck. Then end gable walls, ridge board, and if I get lucky rafters and sheeting but not counting on that but it would be nice.
The beams look great. Nice job with the pulleys. I have 8x10x 13' beams on my front porch and I rented a material lift to set them in place. It is a one man show. I have forks on the front of my tractor but they just couldn't reach high enough to set the beams. Material lift was the only way to go.
Austin
Very nice! Can't wait to see more pics of it progressing!
Last week was very productive. Was up for 8 days (couldn't last much longer than that). Got all the exterior post and beams in with the help of a fork lift. Got the ridge board in 2-26' LVL 1.75"x12". Also got all the rafters in for the house and deck. The house was a 12/12 pitch with 2x10 rafters. The deck ended up being a little less than a 7/12 pitch with 2x8 rafters both were 16" OC. We got all the H3 hurricane ties in and blocking. Got one gable wall framed in that leads to the raised deck and the deck joist in 2x10's. Last thing was I got about 1/3 of the ceiling joist in. Was hoping to get the roof sheeted but didn't happen this trip so heading up Wednesday to get it sheeted and taped off so ill be weathered in. Of course all the fork lifts are not available for the next 2 weeks so ill have to build a lift for the sheets.
Pics of the exterior post and beams.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/37267744275_67c539d5fb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YMdVZ6)2017-09-16_02-01-38 (https://flic.kr/p/YMdVZ6) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/37124982181_94c0d98146_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YyBeMF)2017-09-16_02-00-28 (https://flic.kr/p/YyBeMF) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4368/36429842544_1b2faa806e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XvbsZw)2017-09-16_02-00-13 (https://flic.kr/p/XvbsZw) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4393/36869583060_47b71baee3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yb3fwy)2017-09-16_01-59-59 (https://flic.kr/p/Yb3fwy) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
6x12x20 PT beam. Hard to put in by yourself.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4441/36429834204_0c7c353fe8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XvbqvJ)2017-09-16_01-59-41 (https://flic.kr/p/XvbqvJ) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4404/36869566840_98e97ea4e2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yb3aGU)2017-09-16_01-59-14 (https://flic.kr/p/Yb3aGU) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
6x8 beams for the sides.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/36869556730_da56ab89d6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yb37GA)2017-09-16_01-58-40 (https://flic.kr/p/Yb37GA) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4355/36869559520_72404915db_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yb38wG)2017-09-16_01-58-52 (https://flic.kr/p/Yb38wG) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
6x10 beam returning to house for the rafters to sit on
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4389/36869542920_26afefbbc4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yb33Au)2017-09-16_01-57-52 (https://flic.kr/p/Yb33Au) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
another 6x12x20 beam.
Getting the ridge board in place and starting the rafters.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/37095152202_8c22d96d6c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvYmnG)2017-09-16_01-57-30 (https://flic.kr/p/YvYmnG) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Great friends and family. Couldn't have done it without them. I don't know how people build these by themselves.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4355/36869530710_c9acc2344e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yb2YXY)2017-09-16_01-57-05 (https://flic.kr/p/Yb2YXY) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/37124940021_14d0e56ae6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YyB2fM)2017-09-16_01-56-33 (https://flic.kr/p/YyB2fM) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4402/36429795684_d04207ee0e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xvbe4A)2017-09-16_01-56-12 (https://flic.kr/p/Xvbe4A) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4435/37095116082_8e0221d2a0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvYaCW)2017-09-16_01-55-38 (https://flic.kr/p/YvYaCW) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
He had the hardest job. Cutting each rafter and trying to keep up with us. Was easier to lay each one out. We used a template for the deck rafters.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4382/36429785604_8cbe3062e8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xvbb4N)2017-09-16_01-55-25 (https://flic.kr/p/Xvbb4N) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Started using harness and ropes from this point forward.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4396/36452820683_ea8f8bb029_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XxdeAk)2017-09-16_01-55-12 (https://flic.kr/p/XxdeAk) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
More help
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/36869494830_b9457f3ec5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yb2Nim)2017-09-16_01-54-53 (https://flic.kr/p/Yb2Nim) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4409/37267658315_51e62f57eb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YMdur2)2017-09-16_01-54-02 (https://flic.kr/p/YMdur2) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Beautiful sunset after working for 12 hrs.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/36452801703_39393659ac_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xxd8X6)2017-09-16_01-53-51 (https://flic.kr/p/Xxd8X6) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Deck rafters took awhile to cut since we had a birds mouth cut on the top and bottom of the rafter.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4394/36452796593_d986c8d8ec_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xxd7qZ)2017-09-16_01-53-15 (https://flic.kr/p/Xxd7qZ) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/37267645245_e83765f8e7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YMdqxF)2017-09-16_01-52-14 (https://flic.kr/p/YMdqxF) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4356/37267640245_fefb4af878_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YMdp4t)2017-09-16_01-51-45 (https://flic.kr/p/YMdp4t) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4336/37076911136_78efa38b62_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YumRWy)2017-09-16_01-51-59 (https://flic.kr/p/YumRWy) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36869425240_dba5eec7a2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yb2rBw)2017-09-16_01-51-31 (https://flic.kr/p/Yb2rBw) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/36429728394_9064a13059_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XvaT4q)2017-09-16_01-51-17 (https://flic.kr/p/XvaT4q) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Looks big with the rafters in place finally.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4375/37267607105_dcc17533bb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YMded6)2017-09-16_01-51-05 (https://flic.kr/p/YMded6) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Just did a 2x4 barge rafter and the plan is to attach a 1x8 trex fascia onto it so it will match the deck and will never need to be painted. Anyone else ever do this? Saw it in some pics and it looks good but never have done it myself.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/37267604475_96f156bf73_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YMddqK)2017-09-16_01-50-50 (https://flic.kr/p/YMddqK) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Finished the upstairs floor. I was 6 boards short last time.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/37267595795_35b7101d23_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YMdaR6)2017-09-16_01-50-07 (https://flic.kr/p/YMdaR6) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Framed in the gable wall. Took a lot longer than I thought it would. Using a plumb bob was a life saver.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/37267584705_74482b0197_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YMd7xT)2017-09-16_01-49-39 (https://flic.kr/p/YMd7xT) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
was not fun putting in the blocking that high up.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4359/37267577415_3616990108_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YMd5oc)2017-09-16_01-49-27 (https://flic.kr/p/YMd5oc) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Ceiling joist probably actually collar ties since in the upper third of the rafter. Was by myself so had to cut 2 boards to length plumb them and screw them to the rafter and put the joist on top. Still need to put 4 screws on both sides per the plans. Worked good and they were nice and level. Only got about 1/3 of them in before I was to tired to work anymore, so I packed up and went home.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2947/34005410732_989eacfee7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TNWBT3)Screenshot_20170420-103304 (https://flic.kr/p/TNWBT3) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Probably wont install it tell next summer since Im just trying to get dried in, but Ive been trying to figure out the best place to put my wood stove. Im considering putting it in the corner where the drawing shows the couch. The room was made bigger and the door is farther away from the couch than it shows. Sorry best pic I have of the area. To run the the flue pipe Im considering running it up approx. 8' then going out the side wall (long side of the cabin) and then up and thru the deck roof. 2 reasons for this is so I don't have to work on the 12/12 pitch of the house and if their ever is a leak it would be at the deck and not into the house which I wouldn't see for quite awhile. I've read up on it and it says it will work (though running it straight up is always better) but I have no experience in it so any ideas or comments would be appreciated.
The only other thing with running the stove pipe at the eave is that you're supposed to run the chimney 2 feet above the ridge, or 2 feet above any roof within like 15 feet, which in small houses is the ridge. A pipe that long might be awkward and require 2 triangular braces fastened into the roof deck.
I thought about running the pipe like that too, but ended up doing everything I could to guarantee good draft - which big do I have, and it's really nice.
My flashing boot for the wood stove was really nice, made in Scranton by a company called ventis. I am pretty sure even when the caulk fails the boot will not leak. Anyway just my 2 cents. You are right to be thinking about eliminating holes in the roof as much as possible. I regretted putting my vent stack through the roof before I did it. Should have gone through the gable.
Your place looks great and you are really moving fast.
Didn't think of that. I could run it up the 8' and then go out the short wall and up which would take it out the main roof by the ridge but the penetration would be over the gable end and outside the house since the roof extends out from the house 8' for a covered deck. How does that sound? Ill look up that company. Thanks for input.
I think that will work fine.
I am biased toward a straight run, maybe a 45 or 22 if the stove needs to go a place that the chimney can't quite exit. Guaranteed good draft, least likelihood of chimney fire, easiest to clean, cheapest way to do it... definitely compare costs, ours was about 6 feet of double wall black pipe, then once it got to the second floor it was triple wall stainless steel exterior... about $1600 materials installing it myself...yeesh
One other thing if the pipe goes through the eave area you will have to be really careful about ice damming.
That's a good point thanks for the info.
Well just got back from another 7 day trip working. Got a lot done and we got dried in just in time before an early snow storm. I got up there a day early before anyone else arrived and was able to get the ceiling joist (collar ties) in over the living room where there is no floor so working off of scaffolding and ladders wasn't much fun with the 2x8's. Friends and family showed up and in 2 days we were able to get the fascia on (2x10 and 2x8 to match the rafters), roof on and taped with the zip tape in just 2 really long days. Brother in law was able to stay another half day and help me frame up and sheet the highest end which was a life saver since I had to work off extension ladders. After everyone left I finished off all the ceiling joist and bolted them using 4 screws on each side. Instead of buying more 2x8 I was able to use up the rest of the 2x10 and saved me a lot of money. Finished off framing and sheeting the last gable wall and installed the last door and put on all the door handles so I could secure the place. Before I did the last gable wall I installed the trex decking on the raised deck so I had a platform to work off of. 2 things I would do again is use the Advantech sheeting and trex decking, I found both to be very convenient. I did tape off the roof and the one gable end wall with only the 2 foot eave since it would get snow or rain on it. The other side has an 8' overhang so didn't figure I need to tape it off since its well protected. Last thing is to get the metal roof on it and I can walk away from it for the winter and start again next summer. My son and I have a couple upcoming deer hunts so might be just in time.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/36674316334_a40c4e1de2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XSMswS)2017-09-28_08-23-48 (https://flic.kr/p/XSMswS) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4490/37335805566_75eccf12b6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YTeLeC)2017-09-28_08-19-42 (https://flic.kr/p/YTeLeC) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/37126683960_2138f7f1af_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YyKXEG)2017-09-28_08-29-03 (https://flic.kr/p/YyKXEG) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Attaching the ropes on the ridge to tie off of.(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/36713367273_8fd885e4ba_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XWeB1V)2017-09-28_08-28-18 (https://flic.kr/p/XWeB1V) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
really windy the first day so was able to sheet the 6/12 pitch but had to switch to the other 6/12 because to windy for the 12/12 pitch
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4351/23531231508_2f1609ea99_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/BRnHj5)2017-09-28_08-27-38 (https://flic.kr/p/BRnHj5) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Used the quad to raise and lower the lift that Tim built on site. What a life saver. Could raise 6 sheets no problems and do all of our cuts on the ground which makes life easy.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4435/36713373963_985460484f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XWeD1g)2017-09-28_08-28-39 (https://flic.kr/p/XWeD1g) by (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4416/37383245451_0fa0068d10_z.jpg) (https://[url=https://flic.kr/p/YXqUsF)2017-09-28_08-29-47 (https://flic.kr/p/YXqUsF) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/]sbahde[/url], on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4375/37383198001_3fa213f80f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YXqEmz)2017-09-28_08-26-12 (https://flic.kr/p/YXqEmz) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/37335895286_07dee4964c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YTfdUw)2017-09-28_08-27-59 (https://flic.kr/p/YTfdUw) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/37335911916_aa04aea890_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YTfiRf)2017-09-28_08-29-17 (https://flic.kr/p/YTfiRf) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/36713343243_03f9e80cb4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XWetSB)2017-09-28_08-26-39 (https://flic.kr/p/XWetSB) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4379/37383200821_9c19834a54_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YXqFcc)2017-09-28_08-26-23 (https://flic.kr/p/YXqFcc) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/37335865916_737a44c5dc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YTf5b9)2017-09-28_08-25-50 (https://flic.kr/p/YTf5b9) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
I did end up taping off the ridge with 6" zip tape just to dry it in. I will cut it out when I get the metal on since it will be a vented ridge.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4384/37383125911_a9b735ac4d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YXqhVD)2017-09-28_08-20-47 (https://flic.kr/p/YXqhVD) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
A little snow right after we got the roof on. After it melted I didn't have a drop inside the cabin. Another recommendation I would have is get a metal 55 gallon burn barrel as soon as the job starts. Great for warming up too and enjoying a drink but mainly for keeping the job site some what clean. You can burn all day everyday and still not keep up with the clutter. Its a life saver.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4471/23531178258_b2930acfd8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/BRnrtY)2017-09-28_08-22-39 (https://flic.kr/p/BRnrtY) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/37383153471_2650243f40_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YXqr7P)2017-09-28_08-22-53 (https://flic.kr/p/YXqr7P) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Had to have a drip edge made at home depot to go over my 2x12 ledger board for my deck rafters. Worked great. Easy to find the lower drip edge that went over the 7/16 sheeting but to go over the 2x I couldn't find any where.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/37353275412_5f5049252f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YUMipS)2017-09-28_08-22-14 (https://flic.kr/p/YUMipS) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/37383130901_5c86fa2d3a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YXqjpF)2017-09-28_08-21-16 (https://flic.kr/p/YXqjpF) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/36674290384_19edaa5a5b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XSMjPs)2017-09-28_08-21-39 (https://flic.kr/p/XSMjPs) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
End wall that I taped off. Hopefully the inspector wont saying anything since it does cover the nails on that end.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/37353249072_712a584300_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YUMazJ)2017-09-28_08-20-00 (https://flic.kr/p/YUMazJ) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
2- 40x40 windows on the gable wall.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4374/36674313444_62a7c8135d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XSMrF3)2017-09-28_08-23-29 (https://flic.kr/p/XSMrF3) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
That same wall on the outside. Finished floor is down about 4' on that side because of slope so its a tall wall.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/37126639840_4488b09cf7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YyKJy1)2017-09-28_08-24-36 (https://flic.kr/p/YyKJy1) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4419/37383168641_8673357b87_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YXqvCn)2017-09-28_08-24-17 (https://flic.kr/p/YXqvCn) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Lookin' really sharp. I really like all the porch areas. Easy to find a shady or sunny spot.
Quote from: ffpara on September 29, 2017, 12:37:14 AM
Another recommendation I would have is get a metal 55 gallon burn barrel as soon as the job starts. Great for warming up too and enjoying a drink but mainly for keeping the job site some what clean. You can burn all day everyday and still not keep up with the clutter. Its a life saver.
2nd'd! First thing we got when we started building the barn, although we don't quite use it as often as we did now that we have a fire pit up by the house, but it was a great investment ($5 I think??) Spent a lot of time huddled around it during the winter building the barn!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rJMhXdXvVvKS3iwFCpRTxy-jIFUv1k3uFXXORsorZsL3q1RkG7vKJJEYv8tv0yAgHxcpTlUwk4YG6vAOzPwgl4P9xRjqf8NAPHGbmkEhaTa34YPQvDMhkx2x6qao1aTdY8IEM_zLdpFIzWpjBSxY17976CEWJ98rTBN3IuFBYwYwy_5J-_h0IP9lgJrHlN3__wXIuLBaKgJPJj40ehKG2eCQsVwtqJ87A5bYWHeJEQf2mPxdxFCyS-FYOzoJrGmjS98OA73h0KKh1v2lqZ1VvMdFwrKhq28jXps66gv0kAi4sRfQjUx_MHdG8lViNBpwHGdmYr1D2J0qiFowBpmr5xuWozgMYvGpxc72X80zQZMDQn5Z3PEbs00XacSRR5Rh6BENCJHkz_u0wyysZ1mCyLhIdVPuun82Vq1fcfOq2kil8SPGltQ4zywvddsSk_b45l9rLAq2lEn7ljHjJayzOX6Dpb0nQ6TtlPZ6oPKf89KMRqOm8X1aFmoNiu0qyAYjtq9on8Fd_4-FPzbAPc7N6Wr6JreXdvNj_Fiaa9wZ23vgDpnb0xAnrxQ6Fp__TuxhBkvwLMvSKI0eROIACK2KNSUPKjG5qBTOdwIN_LuEHsehKGloD7Dp3X_zqCiXIsQTHeNac684EI2xsn1q-BcGwo4iCJ0B1GIANts=w1259-h944-no) Its more rusty looking now but does great! Drill small holes near the bottom too to allow rainwater to driain out as well.
We took a haligan and a sledge hammer and made some large holes at the bottom. This allows great air flow and lets it burn hot.
Had some big plans to get a lot done this weekend with my son and the first night there the kid got sick sick. Felt so bad for him. So I was able to get all good wood moved under the roof so its protected for the winter. Did some clean up and packed up some tools. We did take a load of furniture and beds to put in the basement so I could get it out of my garage, so the poor kid had to help me unload it all. We loaded up the tent trailer since its already freezing at night and I had one water line break already and headed home. Ill head up next week to get the metal roof on and should be my last trip for the year because of the weather. Ill post more pics then.
I did measure out the flue pipe. I had to call Englander stoves because I do have a 17.5' (15' pipe) vertical run to joist and the instructions said can only run 10' max of single wall pipe. They advised to run double wall to keep the gas temp up. Also since I have to run the pipe in the middle of the cabin so I don't obstruct the windows I have to move it over 10" to avoid the ridge. They advised be better to 45 it just before the joist above the windows and into the ceiling box. It will be tight since I only have about 18" to work with. Said I could do it with the chimney pipe but they recommend the stove pipe and its cheaper. Anybody have experience with this?
Looking good! Did you get your roofing up?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4594/25227955098_4cce96e809_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EriS85)2017-12-16_11-48-59 (https://flic.kr/p/EriS85) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4594/39094431191_a80b6b71c8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22yDbn6)2017-12-16_11-49-20 (https://flic.kr/p/22yDbn6) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4645/39063649462_a9895b1682_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22vVq2C)2017-12-16_11-49-40 (https://flic.kr/p/22vVq2C) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4729/27316938929_8336677ef4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HBUseF)2017-12-16_11-50-05 (https://flic.kr/p/HBUseF) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4727/25227946618_7ce1c701d7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EriPAS)2017-12-16_11-48-14 (https://flic.kr/p/EriPAS) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4600/25227940728_f8f7aed752_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EriMRj)2017-12-16_11-47-48 (https://flic.kr/p/EriMRj) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Sorry been a busy winter and forgot to post pics of the roof. Got the roof done so its all dried in and closed up for the winter. Ill be back in the spring to start again. Trulog had a 15% off sale this December so ordered all my exterior siding. Figured if I could save $1500 wouldn't hurt to order it early. They have been great to work with so far and will hold the delivery tell spring or summer. I'll spend the winter getting my solar system figured out and my electrical layout. Was going to do the plumbing layout but have a friend who's a plumber so may have him do it since I don't have to much experience with it. Get all that and the trex deck in next summer and I'll be happy. Figured it would take me 3 summers to finish completely. Doing the outside so its almost maintenance free, Steel log siding and trex thru out. Post more next summer, unless it falls down over the winter ;D
Looking really good! I am planning a similar build and trying to decide whether or not to put a covered porch on. What is the pitch of the roof over your deck?
Thanks for sharing your build with us all.
7/12 Pitch...technically its probably a 6.5/12 pitch. Im really happy I went with it. Was hesitant at first because of the work and the look but would do it again now that I have.
Looking good. Love the porches.
Thanks for the porch roof pitch details. I have some insane snow loads and was wondering how the roof pitch would shed snow, but at 7/12 that shouldn't be too much of a problem.
We get alot of snow too so ill let u know come spring. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Would love to see some interior pics. Also-
Are your exterior walls 12'?
I haven't done anymore interior work. Only interior walls that are framed is the stairs going to basement. Still waiting for snow to melt and warm up a little bit. Plan for this summer is deck, stairs to 2nd floor, exterior steel log siding from trulog, windows, and rough plumbing/elect. oh ya, a wood stove to keep it warm.
They are 12' walls.
Is your build a modified version from this site or a different one?
I'm curious how your stair headroom works out going to the loft area.
This is an area I'm having a difficult time with. Love your kitchen layout.
That's what I would like but my stairs keep jamming me up.
Ya I got jammed up on that one too. I had to talk to the inspector if he would ok it. I ended up with 5'6" right next to the wall at the landing but with the 12/12 pitch 6" out you get over 6' clearance. He was ok with it if I went with 3'4" wide stairs. Not sure why he came up with that. I haven't framed it in yet so haven't gotten to experience what its like in real life. Ill let u know if it seems too tight. Not a perfect situation but was the best we could come up with. I'll post pics this summer when I get them done.
They are modified plans from this site. I purchased the plans took them to a engineer for the 12' walls, snow/wind loads for my area, the basement, covered deck. and size. Made the mistake of having a Nevada engineer do the work for me since Utah requires a Utah structural engineer sign off on them. So that was a $2k mistake of mine, plus a 1 year delay since the Utah engineer was 3 months late doing the plans.
Yup, I've made that mistake too. The engineer needs to be working within his area of expertise and licensed in your state. The engineer in the other state is still waiting to get paid for saying he could do the work. He's lucky neither I or the inspector turned him in. Sometimes an inspector will let you work from the "line of travel" but I try not to push it if there is another way. Let's see what you've got Rys, more eyes on the problem.
How do I post pictures? Do I need them on a picture hosting site?
Currently I have chicken scratch on graph paper. ???
Yes, Rys, you need someplace that is online 24/7 to store the image file. There are many sites out there or you can use your own website, your own domain. Probably $100 a year for a simple site of your own or many hosts are available free. We used to recommend Photobucket but then a year ago they started wanting money and held all the images people had uploaded for ransom. So we have no official recommendation. Many use imgur.com, imgbox.com. Don't take those as recommendations. They are free today but who know what happens tomorrow.
Once the image is uploaded to a remote host you post a link to the image in the forum message. How that is done can vary so you need to check that out on your own.
Rys if you need me to post more pics of my plans just let me know but I think most are already on there. The stairs have been modified a little from the plans but are close.
Rys - here are some pics of the landing going to the 2nd floor. What my plan is to get an extra 8" is to do a partial winder stairs, but cutting the landing in half instead of thirds. I was able to get the landing framed in and while standing on it with my shoulder against the wall my head cleared the rafters and Im 6'1". The rafters are 5'8" from landing but with the 12/12 pitch you clear fine and it seems like plenty of room to move furniture upstairs. Probably would not work with a different pitch. Already cut the stringers and heading back in a week so Ill have better pics for you of the stairs, landing, and clearance.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/950/27853298988_245707605d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JriroU)2018-04-26_11-57-48 (https://flic.kr/p/JriroU) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/965/39914797880_04f47cb240_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23P8LNm)2018-04-26_11-58-17 (https://flic.kr/p/23P8LNm) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
2 things I would have done if I would have planned this out better would have put the opening to the stairs directly in between the 2 beams. Which I almost got lucky (beam sits 2 inches into the opening) and did unknowingly. I would make the stair well wall a 6" wall (the one parallel with the beam just to the right of the level that runs back to the wall.) that the beam sits on instead of a 4" wall. If you do this you could remove the small framing that fills in between the 2 beams and run your stairs thru that opening. You would have to put in a 4' beam between those 2 beams to support the stairs and the floor. It doesn't interfere with downstairs headroom since its into that dead space above the exposed beams. This would allow one more step and you could keep your landing normal instead of winder stairs. Hope that makes sense:)
Also I would have run my stairs from the 1st floor to the landing "flush" instead of standard. This would allow more of a landing since its split in half now with the winder stairs. Im not able to do it now because I moved my door closer to the stairs to get more living room space and the extra run with doing it flush moves it to close to that door for my liking. Hope this helps and makes sense but it is something that definitely works if you plan it out from the beginning.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/975/41722102411_f9eae27d73_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/26yQFti)2018-04-26_11-57-19 (https://flic.kr/p/26yQFti) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Looking good!
Made it back up for a quick trip. Was able to get the stairs done and I ended up moving an exterior door over 5" for a better layout in the downstairs bedroom. Lots of work but will be happy with it in the long run. Woke up the 2nd morning to some snow so it was a great trip.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/829/40974920765_1d2b324c25_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25qPbp8)2018-05-03_03-07-17 (https://flic.kr/p/25qPbp8) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/977/40974918775_2783e9152e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25qPaNP)2018-05-03_03-07-03 (https://flic.kr/p/25qPaNP) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/911/41156522124_6882f47f0f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25GRWa3)2018-05-03_03-06-48 (https://flic.kr/p/25GRWa3) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/967/40974911005_a741c4f277_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25qP8uR)2018-05-03_03-06-24 (https://flic.kr/p/25qP8uR) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/904/41873458841_7a9bcb188b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/26NdqsV)2018-05-03_03-14-04 (https://flic.kr/p/26NdqsV) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/981/40066073640_3fb4d0af22_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/243v6P7)2018-05-03_03-07-51 (https://flic.kr/p/243v6P7) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/965/28004509618_06fe260ba8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JEEr3J)2018-05-03_03-15-07 (https://flic.kr/p/JEEr3J) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Had some great help with me this trip too.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/824/40975010225_f110263de4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25qPCZx)2018-05-03_03-14-32 (https://flic.kr/p/25qPCZx) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/962/41156617924_05d4b1a1fe_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25GSqCL)2018-05-03_03-13-18 (https://flic.kr/p/25GSqCL) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Beautiful area!
It's coming right along.
A little constructive criticism hopefully to help others with stairs, they are tough. Look at the winder platform pic. The narrowest part of a winder tread should be no less than 6" wide, also winders must be identical in width at the travel line. That can take some real hair pulling. My connection is slow tonight but stairways.org usually has free downloads of older stair codes in good visual format.
In that picture above you can see that the bottoms of the stringers are birdsmouth notched over the landing. Look at the grain direction of the stringer and the notching for the treads and risers. Think about how easy it is for the birdsmouth to split out along that weakened grain. It works better to make the landing large enough to support the entire stringer with just a level cut on it rather than a birdsmouth. You can then make a 2x4 cutout on the toe, the front bottom of that stringer to prevent it sliding. One way to strengthen what is there is to level cut the bottom point of the overhanging birdsmouth back until it is 1-1/2" wide and nail a 2x4 up under the stringers across the backside of the platform. This is just stuff I've learned as I've gone along.
So question for you all. Im running into the same problem I had last year. The economy is doing so good every contractor is to busy to take a job or even return a call. Trying to get my plumbing done but no call backs from anyone. Even tried to get some help with layout here in town but cant get a company to lay it out for me. So guess Ill be doing it myself. Have some experience with running black pipe and csst for gas and have worked with pex for water lines but have only done 1 or 2 small underground work for plumbing not much in the house. So my question is and hopefully my drawing will help, is on one of my main branches, a 3" line, is running horizontally parallel with the I-joist I will branch it off to a W.C. and then branch the 3" again to a tub/shower before it makes its 90 and runs up the wall which will feed another toilet and shower and continue into the attic as the main vent. It will stay a 3" line thru out. The distance off the 3" line to feed both will not be more than 5' so everything I've read sounds like I dont need to revent those 2 lines because of the distance even with it being a wet vent. Just wondering if I'm missing something.
Your probably wondering why I'm running 3 branches off the main 4" line that goes to the septic. 2 reasons: #1 the 2nd floor is exposed 6"x12" beams (of course i will be covering the pipes in the bathroom) and Im not going to drill thru them. Also my floor I-joist in the basement are 12" OC so would not be fun putting together little 12" sections running perpendicular to the trusses. The 3 branches will all run thru the wall to the attic into 1 vent stack thru the roof. I will also tie in the kitchen vent into it. Trying to only have 1 penetration thru the roof. This was never my plan to do it myself but i have no choice. Only good thing is its all exposed so if I mess it up and fail inspection I can replace it. Thanks for any advice. (https://farm1.staticflickr.com/926/43594150051_2a4dbfd296_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29qgq1K)2018-07-23_10-21-54 (https://flic.kr/p/29qgq1K) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Ive been able to make some trips up and get to work on all my rough ins. For my first inspection he wants plumbing and electric rough in done. Funny been working on this since last summer and still haven't had an inspection except for basement and septic. I got 95% of plumbing waste lines in and the water lines run. First time using PEX and it went well. Was able to get the pump hooked up and had no leaks so I guess that's a plus. Want to get the downstairs bathroom finished so I have a toilet and shower. Going to see if the inspector will mind me holding off on the upstairs bathroom just because I have to many others things Id like to get done than that, all plumbing is run for it. I rather like having that 2nd floor completely open and 1 bathroom might work for quite awhile. We will see. Main gas line is run its a 1" csst gastite line ran the entire length of the cabin thru the floor joist. I will branch off it to all my appliances. One end will hook to the tank other end I will run to a BBQ. All interior walls are framed in. During the process of building I was always adjusting walls or stairs to help with the living room or kitchen. The master bedroom payed the price though. It ended up being 12.5' by 11'. Definitely small for a Master but it will work.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1880/30268213488_bd04f2fbca_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/N7GvkN)2018-08-19_10-15-20 (https://flic.kr/p/N7GvkN) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Main 4" line to septic.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1843/44087347932_fc3c172472_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2aaRbyu)2018-08-19_10-14-01 (https://flic.kr/p/2aaRbyu) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
3" line branches to toilet and shower then continues up for 2nd floor bathroom and vent.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1896/44087355302_07a2e7fa2c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2aaRdKy)2018-08-19_10-14-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2aaRdKy) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Kitchen sink
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1833/29198085597_fd67513f1a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Lu8PAV)2018-08-19_10-12-45 (https://flic.kr/p/Lu8PAV) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Washer and bathroom lavatory. 1st floor
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1820/44135877011_ec739889c7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2af8UyK)2018-08-19_10-13-19 (https://flic.kr/p/2af8UyK) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
rest of bathroom
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4 vent stacks going into the attic (kitchen vent is behind me) then all tying into the 1 3" vent that will go thru the roof.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1878/44087296752_1b3d351218_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2aaQVm5)2018-08-19_10-11-18 (https://flic.kr/p/2aaQVm5) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
3" vent that will go thru the roof. haven't had a chance to fill the system with water to test for leaks. Will do next trip.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1863/44135820101_a2840e20d1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2af8BDx)2018-08-19_10-09-59 (https://flic.kr/p/2af8BDx) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Their will be a pressure tank after the pump and I just looped my hot water side for testing.
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Bathtub will go here waiting for it to get in. capped the water lines for testing.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1815/29198066747_60a07f6121_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Lu8HZV)2018-08-19_10-11-38 (https://flic.kr/p/Lu8HZV) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Kitchen vent
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1870/29198124627_dd4445094d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Lu92cR)2018-08-19_10-15-03 (https://flic.kr/p/Lu92cR) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Kitchen/bedroom wall. Sorry out of focus.
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Hallway to bathroom and bedroom their will be a coat/storage closet then behind it is the bedroom closet. Just put the king studs in for the doors so had more room to move around.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1831/42326985290_bf48fe81ab_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27uhS5s)2018-08-19_10-12-16 (https://flic.kr/p/27uhS5s) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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rather large closet for bedroom (3'4" deep) I will either move the opening back 10" so the door can open farther or just leave the closet doors off and have it as a walk in so the door can open farther. Probably move it back.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1843/29199592327_a321fb07ed_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Lugxv2)2018-08-19_11-30-40 (https://flic.kr/p/Lugxv2) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
gas line
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Kitchen
Who did you use to redo your plans ?
Thanks. It looks great.
Jkl drafting and design. Its out of st george, ut. Only reason i used them is Utah requires a structural engineer from Utah to sign off on the plans.
Thanks !
That is what I may need to do here in AZ ?
What did you pay (about) for the foundation/basement ?
That is one of the few things I sub contracted out so far. Basement and footing (a lot of footing for walk around deck) and septic was $42k. That's about 12k more than I planned on paying. My build started right when construction started to boom again and I either couldn't find any contractors to even give a bid or all my bids were really high.
Was the including the septic system ?
And I know what you mean about getting people ! I can't even get them to call back ? Sad.
Also what do you have in the wood supply's ?
Thanks
That did include the septic. 1250 gallon tank.
Do u mean my supplier for wood?
If so....cedar city actually has quite a few lumber yards but surprisingly enough home depot was the cheapest and actually easy to work with did everything thru email or phone call and payed on the phone. Best of all their delivery fee was only $99 and it's almost a 2 hr drive one way from cedar. Everyone else was $300 so saved me alot with just that.
Its even worse this summer than last. Wasnt planning on doing my plumbing but after calling every city around my cabin I never got 1 bid. They are that busy. Dont blame them if u have the work why drive out to a remote cabin to do a small job, (small job for them huge job for me:)
The wood question was for building your home.
I am having the same issue. Can't even get a contractor to return a phone call much less actually bid the project - especially when they find out how remote we are located. The idea of getting multiple quotes goes out the window when you struggle to get a single quote!
We ended up getting a bid for $17,000 for septic, poured stem-wall foundation, final site leveling and backfilling, and a little road work - not too bad considering the remote location and rural area we live.
Seems like a good price. I definitely picked the wrong time to start the build. It does force me to learn new things and save money so guess it's better in the long run.
ffpara - I think I mentioned it before, but the guys that did your foundation and sitework did an awesome job. Worth the money IMO and not a surprising amount either.
I think that people are hesitant to talk about those costs because it is really expensive, and there isn't really any way around it. Well, that's what is attractive about piers - until you have 10s of thousands of dollars, blood, sweat, and tears sitting on those rinky dink things.
Anyway, money well spent.
Did you have any problems with the 12' walls and the permit people ?
How did you frame the sill plate to the floor around the basement opening ?
Snow took awhile to melt off this year. Made 4 trips up so far. Was able to get Rough Elect. signed off and finally found my leak in my gas line and got it holding pressure so had it signed off. This last trip we got all the beams and floor joist in for the deck. Goals for this summer is to get the trex installed (backordered tell July sometime), outside siding, finishing touches on the inside and get my insulation signed off.
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shower and toilet installed.
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Decided to move the window from left side to right side. More room on the left for living room and put diner table on right side.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48069417318_30a78b3bd0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geJk4d)2019-06-15_03-29-36 (https://flic.kr/p/2geJk4d) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
Got fireplace in. Everything above fireplace is just temporary scaffolding will remove when Im done with ceiling.
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Upstairs bathroom is finished but forgot to take a picture of it. Considering moving the washer/dryer here since main bathroom is downstairs and will free up alot of room. Just need to run gas.
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1st trip up without snowmobile.
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late snowstorm.
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panel.
Progress photos of the deck.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48069368411_b847578912_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geJ5vZ)2019-06-15_03-29-02 (https://flic.kr/p/2geJ5vZ) by sbahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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These guys were a life saver because this was alot of work and never would have got it done without them
It's really coming together nicely!
That's one heck of a deck! Looks great.
Trex decking is taking alot longer than I thought. Only got half of what i wanted done. Got the tru log siding delivered so can start that as soon as the deck is done.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48432184437_80eae50bbf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gMMB5H)20190725_133206 (https://flic.kr/p/2gMMB5H) by Scott Bahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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That will look nice when done. [cool]
Got the deck done, except one side I'm 2.5" short and the finish edge which I'll finish both next year. Got all the windows in except for the 2 on the 2nd floor which Ill do this year as I'm doing the siding since I'll need the scaffolding. Got all the trim work in for the siding. Got the water heater mounted.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48755650616_8bdf3ba307_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhnsiN)20190907_144000 (https://flic.kr/p/2hhnsiN) by Scott Bahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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Trim for Tru Log siding took alot longer than planned. Almost a whole day with starter strip, Window and door trim, Elect. boxes and spickets. Its all ready for the actual siding so hopefully that goes smoothly and a little quicker.
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Got a 1000 Gallon propane tank installed and ran to the cabin. Have 2 blue flame ventless heaters so I can install the insulation this winter when I snowmobile in. Amerigas checked all my fitting for the CSST to give me peace of mind since Im not completely sold on it over black pipe. One question I have is anyone have issues with the propane in the winter. Im installing a propane generator for backup power for the solar but have heard of people having issues with the propane no turning to gas in the winters since its an outside line. Amerigas says I shouldnt have a problem because of the size of the tank, that it happens to the smaller BBQ tanks. Anyone have any advice before I go down the propane generator idea?
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Your propane dealer is correct about problems that occur with small cylinders and large BTU demands in cold weather. You should have no problems at all.
https://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10186.0
The deck looks nice. Love the mountains in the background too!
Thanks MountainDon thats some great info on propane and temperature effects.
Started the Tru-Log siding finally. Its a slow process especially when working by yourself. Does have foam inserts so gives a R2 value.
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Window side took even longer with all the cuts. All the windows and doors have a bold window trim going around them that Ill add next year.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48859723771_374abb5c6c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hryRCx)2019-10-07_08-06-36 (https://flic.kr/p/2hryRCx) by Scott Bahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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Swamp cooler will go here:
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Last side I was working on. Will make another trip to finish most of the siding on this short wall and the other. Will get all the insulation inside and will snow mobile in the winter to install and finish up some interior work. Nice having the propane heaters. My goal was as little maintenance as possible, hence the trek decking and steel siding.
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Looks real good! Low maintenance is always a good thing.
Also looks like you're missing a few SDS screws in your brackets for the porch roof. ;)
Ya just got the deck done need to go back and get Alot of them put in. Wasnt worth the hassle of trying to get to them before that.
Got up and finished the 3rd wall completely and 12' of the last wall. Couldnt go any higher since I need to get the scaffolding out and install the windows. That will wait tell next summer. Have all the insulation inside so hopefully I can snowmobile in this winter to insulate.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48887978443_7fbb5f660f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hu4EL4)2019-10-12_07-23-44 (https://flic.kr/p/2hu4EL4) by Scott Bahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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Got back up for a couple days. Got the entire roof insulated, the downstairs bathroom, and the exterior walls in the basement at the floor joist insulated (hoping that will keep the basement warmer in the winter). Got the water heater vented and plumbing. Got the wiring in for the generator to the panel and some small framing done. Would love to make one more trip to get the exterior walls insulated, inspected, and be done with insulation but we will see when snow hits.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48959102867_9f40b8d2fd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hAmcze)2019-10-25_11-22-19 (https://flic.kr/p/2hAmcze) by Scott Bahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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Been back up twice now over the winter. Have all the electrical done, so I ran the generator to the main panel. Have all the plumbing done and water heater hooked up. Picked up all the interior wood and got some of the roof, kitchen wall, and downstairs bathroom done. Put in the last 2 windows in on the 2nd floor.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49744237396_8f76fe56e3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMJdHs)2020-04-06_04-30-12 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMJdHs) by Scott Bahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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lake still good and frozen.
Looking good! Thanks for sharing the pictures, always great to see progress.
That first picture looks like quite a load!
Had to get 4 new tires before leaving Salt Lake the old ones didnt look like they would make the long drive.
Got in another trip. Got the ceiling done with my son. My daughter painted a 20x20 garage that we built years ago and my other daughter got in some shelves and organized my garage that was a disaster. So it was a great trip.
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Ice is melting quickly. Still 80% covered but more of a slush now
Still working on siding and the kitchen. Got most cabinets in except 2 that are back ordered. Doing Birch butcher block countertops. Got them stained and 3 coats of poly.
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Son doing a little work on the roads.
Finished the kitchen and counter tops. Kitchen faucet was broke so I had to return it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50034324901_fd3b98e193_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jemZCa)2020-06-22_10-42-38 (https://flic.kr/p/2jemZCa) by Scott Bahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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Looks good. I like the light-colored wood. What species is the countertop material?
Its Birch Butcher Block from Home depot. Concerned that since the cabin is not temperature controlled we will see how it holds up with all the extreme temps thru out the year. Some places said they had no issues some said they did so keeping my fingers crossed.
More progress.
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Made a couple more trips up since last post. Got all the interior siding up except the upstairs bathroom and finish work (case doors and windows). Got the railing up for the loft and railing around the deck. Just used pre made steel panels from lowes it was quick,cheap, and low maintenance so will work for now.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50138399011_54f2899648_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2joypen)2020-07-21_01-52-52 (https://flic.kr/p/2joypen) by Scott Bahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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My daughter actually built this for me.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50196662291_9461b3fb1a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jtH1SF)2020-08-06_01-57-01 (https://flic.kr/p/2jtH1SF) by Scott Bahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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I know it probably varies per state but i was wondering for my certificate of occupancy do I need to have finish floor put in and window/doors cased?
Have a call into the inspector to find out exactly but he's out for awhile and Im trying to prioritize my work. Reason Im asking is my insurance sky rocketed since it insured as "under construction" and its been longer than 2 years so its now high risk but will go down as soon as I get my occupancy.
THat is going to be a local decision. I do know of someone who did get the CO and only had the subflooring with plans to do the finish tile in about a year. That inspector was okay with it.
Finished up some projects before the end of the year. Got railing up, finally got more trex to finish the deck, finished exterior siding of end wall and got the scaffolding put away, cased out windows, got all the plumbing done for upstairs bathroom, poured footers for exterior stairs. This winter all I'll need to finish is siding bathroom and finished floor for CO. Also am not going to run the heat in the basement this year since basement is sealed and insulated figuring the tank wont freeze (700 gallons) since the heat wont escape to the upstairs. Hopefully works out. Last year used up about 400 gallons of propane to heat it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379791091_6638c3d57d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jKTAFM)2020-09-24_11-29-06 (https://flic.kr/p/2jKTAFM) by Scott Bahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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Nice, looking good....
Mild winter never got a chance to snow mobile in this year. Drove up for the night to check if I could get in and how everything held up. No issues thankfully. Decided to start putting the floor in. Was a really long 2 days but got motivated and got in 99% of it. Just need to finish base and case and the inside for the most part is done.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51122079606_8496b09647_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTu2cC)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kTu2cC) by Scott Bahde (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137097350@N04/), on Flickr
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Your place looks great. I think it is such a good experience for your kids to have been involved in the build too.
Quote from: ffpara on April 17, 2021, 07:43:03 PMMild winter never got a chance to snow mobile in this year. Drove up for the night to check if I could get in and how everything held up. No issues thankfully. Decided to start putting the floor in. Was a really long 2 days but got motivated and got in 99% of it. Just need to finish base and case and the inside for the most part is done.
I'm curious how you were able to teach your dog to use a hammer and a speed square. I've tried to get my dog to assist with a few tasks but she usually ends up wandering off and I find her sleeping in the sun.