dug & Jenny's 20 by 30 1 and 1/2 story

Started by dug, December 06, 2009, 10:57:26 AM

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Redoverfarm

Dug the miscalculation was probably due to the angle ( roof pitch) as things aren't always what they seem in comparison to flat surfaces.  Good job.  Just wondering if you considered any ceiling lights/fans on the ceiling of the T&G?

dug

Quoteust wondering if you considered any ceiling lights/fans on the ceiling of the T&G?

No ceiling fan in there. I will probably have one overhead light and just run metal conduit on the inside of one of the beams, I'm hoping I can add enough task lighting under counters (this will be the kitchen) to fill it with enough light.

The T&G will also be in the bathroom and I may use wall lights or just go with the industrial look of conduit.


astidham

Very Nice dug, is it warming the house evenly where you placed it?
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

dug

QuoteVery Nice dug, is it warming the house evenly where you placed it?

Thanks! It is now.  ;D  Something looked wrong so I found the manual for the stove and found that whoever had it before placed the fire bricks that were supposed to be on top part of the stove on the bottom.   d*

It wasn't burning right (no air flow) and the ashes had no where to go. Working like a champ now. Ceiling insulation is next, that will make a big difference! Right now there are just open vents on the roof.

Hi Road


Weathered Rebar rail pickets - suggest a diluted muriatic acid solution (a common swimming pool product) wash used with caution will give a light rust finish.  Then clear coat with Penetrol.  The results will yield a durable weathered look.
 
I get a lot of snow stacked up against my shed so I wanted something that was water resistant and strong.  Corrugated metal roofing was my solution.  I used this process on galvanized steel roofing exterior wainscote to get a weathered look and it it came out very nice.

Caution:  Muriatic acid will dissolve the cement in a concrete mix also.  If you want  to expose the aggregate in a smooth concrete finish slab this stuff is what is used.  Use rubber gloves and eye protection.

John



MountainDon

Quote from: dug on November 21, 2010, 08:04:25 PM

It wasn't burning right (no air flow) and the ashes had no where to go. Working like a champ now.

Wonder if that's why they sold it?

The Aspen is a nice stove! (that makes 4that I know of here; myself, oljarhead, 16466 Kbps, and you
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

astidham

dug did you use a stucco stop at the bottom of your stucco?
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

dug

Quotedug did you use a stucco stop at the bottom of your stucco?

Yes, I used what I think is called weep screed. Basically an L shaped piece of metal with holes on the bottom L part for drainage.

dug

It's been some time since I posted so  I figured I better put something up before this thread gets deleted. Many delays, and I've got plenty of excuses to explain them but I'll spare you the lies.  ;)

I will say that we have endured the coldest snap in the weather that we have experienced here so far. Two or three nights it got down to 0 degrees and the highs never broke freezing. Our water supply has been reasonably reliable over the winters and has only frozen up for short periods now and then but this time it froze solid for three days, and let me tell you that you realize real quick just how vital running water is to nearly every aspect of your life. To turn a knob and have water flow is nothing short of pure luxury.



So of course I've been forced to track down and repair numerous water leaks- still not done.

I know many of you who live in areas that really get cold are probably having a good laugh at our "harsh" NM winter, but I guess its all relative to what you have grown accustomed to.

I have managed to get my ceiling insulated, about the only good thing I can say about this job is that it is done! Lots of blocking for drywall and problems figuring out the venting. Also handling and installing the fiberglass is, at best, not very fun.

Working up high didn't make it any easier-



blocking around loft rail and closing the vents at roof eve. I used expanding foam to seal and hold the rafter vent in place-



More blocking for drywall at the gable ends-



If I had it to do over again I would look real hard at having someone spray in foam. It would have spared me all the hassles with the venting, added extra R-value, and best of all- no dealing with fiberglass! All in all it may not have been a whole lot more expensive.

I got the lumber that I was short on for the loft floor so I'll be doing that next, and then drywall for the ceiling. Yea!  :(





astidham

dug, I bet it feels good having the ceiling insulated.
did you use a slap stapler?
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

dug

I did use a hammer stapler and it worked out pretty good but was hard to get into some of the tight areas. It is nice having the ceiling done, now I can keep it in the 50's or better when it's freezing outside.  ;D

Minicup28

Did you use uninsulated black stove pipe all the way to the support box? What is the distance?
I've been debating at what length to swich to insulated pipe to maintain the draft.
You win some
You lose some
Some you don't even get to start...

John Raabe

Thanks for the update Dug. Spray foam work is a good thing to farm out. Very tricky to control, and MESSY!
None of us are as smart as all of us.

suburbancowboy

Dug where did you get your through the roof chimney kit?  That is one of the few things that I still need to purchase to complete my cabin this spring.


dug

I ordered everything online through Northline express and used Simpson Duravent throughout. They were easy to deal with and about as inexpensive as I found. I needed a 3 foot support box for the 12/12 roof pitch.

astidham

Hey dug,
how is the place coming along?
any new updates?

Todd
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

dug

Things are coming along nicely, a bit slow as usual though. I am working on the ceiling drywall at this time.

I have been wanting to post new progress pictures but have been unsuccessfully searching for my cameras memory card for the past three days. Hard to believe that only 6 or 7 years ago that little 50 cent sized piece of plastic cost me almost $400!  [shocked] The exact same 4gb card can be had today for only 20 bucks. 

I suppose I should just order a new one- that would absolutely guarantee my old one will turn up within 10 minutes after the credit card clears.  [waiting]




rniles

Wow - I just read your whole thread and I'm jut amazed. Nice job, beautiful house!
I do not entertain hypotheticals. The world itself is vexing enough. - Col. Stonehill in 'True Grit'

OlJarhead

Every time I check in I see new progress and rather nice work :)  Keep it up!  I'm envious!

dug

Found my memory card! Here are a few updates.

Bathroom and hallway are framed-
                                                                                     

I built a wall stiffener/shelf to shore up the tall gable end wall a bit (thanks Don P!). Still have to sheath the bottom but I am going to install some can lights first-

                                       

I also got the drywall up on the ceiling, a big sigh of relief to be done with that! The drywall lift is my favorite new tool, I was going to rent one but instead bought one for the same price as a weeks rental. It almost made the job kind of fun....almost!

                                       

I also got the extension so I could do the second row from the bottom. Scary, but no mishaps-

                                       

It was somewhat of a pain to measure and cut around the beams. I botched some of it a bit, but not too bad-

                                 

Done!

                       

My second favorite new tool, don't know how I lived without one of these for so long!

                                                   

I also got a pretty good start on the electrical layout, most of the wires are run-

                                           

Lately I have been working as an apprentice for a local electrician. Fun work and a paid education in a trade which I had been previously clueless about.

Porch deck is mostly done and I added some left over roof metal for accent.

                                     

Also got started on the metal skirting-

                                                         

So that's it for now. A little more electric work to do yet and then I can insulate and sheetrock the walls. I am beginning to believe this place is actually going to get finished, maybe before winter!   :)











waterbug

Looks great Dug! Thanks for sharing the pictures. 

I really like your stucco - it reminds me of the places we used to see driving through northern New Mexico when we visited Taos and Red River.

Sassy

http://glennkathystroglodytecabin.blogspot.com/

You will know the truth & the truth will set you free

astidham

everything is looking great dug!
I'm glad to see an update from you..
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

ajbremer

Hi Dug,

I'm about ready to do the same thing you've done, start my 20x30 1 1/2 story plan build here in Oklahoma. I have two small lots and we've cleared them, put a 12x32 Derksen lofted barn cabin building on it, got electric, and tomorrow the septic is supposed to be put in (if the ground is dry enough from all the past rain). Electric cost $500 plus first bill, perc test cost $140.00, septic with 1000 gal tank and 310 feet of lateral line cost $3000, and water meter put in will cost $750. Also, I've chosen to do a stem-wall foundation and I'm not sure yet how much my neighbor who does concrete work will charge me.

Thanks for all your great photos you've put up here! It looks like you've been at it for about a year and a half?

One of my first questions to you is: how did you decipher what minimum materials you needed from the materials list that John has for the 20x30 - to get it dried-in/out of the weather?

A friend of mine is a professional framer and has a crew he works with. He looked at a pic of the 20x30 and said that he and his crew could have it dried-in in three days for $750 a day - man, that's sounds like a good price. (That's just off the top of his head while looking at a pic and sitting at a church pew). I'm a first time builder and I would have to go out and buy all the tools, take time off work to build, and it looks like it would take me a very long time. BUT, if I work a bunch of overtime, make the money to give to the framer dudes, then that seems like the way to go for me.

What I don't understand about reading the material list is that it describes a lot of the wood in 'LF', linear feet? How do I know what lengths to buy and how many 'sticks' and what is needed for minimum dried-in? What I plan to do is to sit with the framer friend with the plans and have him tell me what I'll need for him to dry it in.

Your place looks awesome dude! I have many more questions - as would any first time builder, but I'll get'em to ya later. I'm going to start my build-thread here at countryplans very soon so keep an eye out. Thank you dug.
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

dug

Thanks everyone!

ajbremer-

I didn't use the materials list. Before I placed my first materials order I sat down with pen and paper and went through the build from the ground up, starting with the main support beams and working my way up to the roof. For example: Beams- 2 by 12 by 16 ft/ quantity 18, 6 sheets 1/2 in. plywood for spacer material. I then calculated the quantity of floor joists needed, rim joists, blocking, wall studs, etc, etc, etc, until I had the paper on the roof. I drew sketches to help me count all the pieces needed. I believe my first delivery was somewhere in the neighborhood of $5000 to accomplish that.

QuoteA friend of mine is a professional framer and has a crew he works with. He looked at a pic of the 20x30 and said that he and his crew could have it dried-in in three days for $750 a day - man, that's sounds like a good price. (That's just off the top of his head while looking at a pic and sitting at a church pew). I'm a first time builder and I would have to go out and buy all the tools, take time off work to build, and it looks like it would take me a very long time. BUT, if I work a bunch of overtime, make the money to give to the framer dudes, then that seems like the way to go for me.

$2250 sounds like a heck of a deal to me. I took a ridiculous 6 months or so to get in the dry, netting me approximately $2.50 an hour for my efforts. Financially it would have made much more sense to hire it out but it is more of a labor of love for myself, something I always wanted to do.

Looking forward to your upcoming thread!