Those of you who've gotten to know me a little know that I do 'shotgun' research all day long ;) What I mean is that you know I don't just concentrate on one thing. I spend time daily -- right now -- thinking about installing the wood stove, Roof framing, brick laying, insulation, RV appliances and so much more (all while I solve problems on Telecommunications gear around the country and manage a Network Operations Control Center)...it's just me, Iv'e always been this way. I'm told I'm a '3 dimensional thinker' whatever that is...
Anyway, one of the things I've been thinking a lot about is cutting down several 1 1/2" thick pine trees on our property (they need to be thinned anyway) and using these: http://www.lumberjacktools.com/index.html to make them into rails for the loft railing.
I think the look would be fantastic and they'd be functional. I figure if I cut them in June (I'm told July-August are best but with fire and cutting restrictions June will work better), stripping them and letting them dry for 6-8 weeks before trimming, cutting to size and cutting the tenons. I figure that once that's all done I can coat in a clear poly with a slight antiquing quality to it (amber or honey type maybe).
Anyway, this lead me to wonder if I could use pine for my porch posts also? If I were to cut some trees with say 6" diameters and do the same with them (peel and dry) would they be strong enough as porch supports?
Quote from: OlJarhead on February 02, 2010, 12:07:35 PM
Those of you who've gotten to know me a little know that I do 'shotgun' research all day long ;) What I mean is that you know I don't just concentrate on one thing. I spend time daily -- right now -- thinking about installing the wood stove, Roof framing, brick laying, insulation, RV appliances and so much more (all while I solve problems on Telecommunications gear around the country and manage a Network Operations Control Center)...it's just me, Iv'e always been this way. I'm told I'm a '3 dimensional thinker' whatever that is...
Anyway, one of the things I've been thinking a lot about is cutting down several 1 1/2" thick pine trees on our property (they need to be thinned anyway) and using these: http://www.lumberjacktools.com/index.html to make them into rails for the loft railing.
I think the look would be fantastic and they'd be functional. I figure if I cut them in June (I'm told July-August are best but with fire and cutting restrictions June will work better), stripping them and letting them dry for 6-8 weeks before trimming, cutting to size and cutting the tenons. I figure that once that's all done I can coat in a clear poly with a slight antiquing quality to it (amber or honey type maybe).
Anyway, this lead me to wonder if I could use pine for my porch posts also? If I were to cut some trees with say 6" diameters and do the same with them (peel and dry) would they be strong enough as porch supports?
Sounds like a plan. I think I would try to find something a little more substantial for the porch post. But if you need a place to store the tenon cutter when you are finished I will send you my mailing address. ;D
There is an alternative way to cut the tenons for railing if you are not really interested in having the 60 deg shoulder. Use a hole saw to cut the tenon. Then set your table saw fence to correspond the the depth of your hole saw cut. Then raise your blade to meet the hole saw cut and rotate the picket to remove the excess. Just a thought.
Quote from: Redoverfarm on February 02, 2010, 12:20:07 PM
Quote from: OlJarhead on February 02, 2010, 12:07:35 PM
Those of you who've gotten to know me a little know that I do 'shotgun' research all day long ;) What I mean is that you know I don't just concentrate on one thing. I spend time daily -- right now -- thinking about installing the wood stove, Roof framing, brick laying, insulation, RV appliances and so much more (all while I solve problems on Telecommunications gear around the country and manage a Network Operations Control Center)...it's just me, Iv'e always been this way. I'm told I'm a '3 dimensional thinker' whatever that is...
Anyway, one of the things I've been thinking a lot about is cutting down several 1 1/2" thick pine trees on our property (they need to be thinned anyway) and using these: http://www.lumberjacktools.com/index.html to make them into rails for the loft railing.
I think the look would be fantastic and they'd be functional. I figure if I cut them in June (I'm told July-August are best but with fire and cutting restrictions June will work better), stripping them and letting them dry for 6-8 weeks before trimming, cutting to size and cutting the tenons. I figure that once that's all done I can coat in a clear poly with a slight antiquing quality to it (amber or honey type maybe).
Anyway, this lead me to wonder if I could use pine for my porch posts also? If I were to cut some trees with say 6" diameters and do the same with them (peel and dry) would they be strong enough as porch supports?
Sounds like a plan. I think I would try to find something a little more substantial for the porch post. But if you need a place to store the tenon cutter when you are finished I will send you my mailing address. ;D
haha and here I thought you were going to offer to loan me one! :) c*
Seriously though, have you looked at those? Amazing! Expensive, but amazing! Just like a pencil sharpener :D
Now, if I get the work done correctly I think the railing will look darn near awesome...but the porch...I was thinking that Pine might not be strong enough so perhaps I need some fir?
How big a porch? How many posts to hold up the roof?
The load on the posts is mostly a compression load; I don't see why a 6 inch pine would not be strong enough to support most porch roofs. Maybe I'm missing something?
Quote from: MountainDon on February 02, 2010, 12:39:09 PM
How big a porch? How many posts to hold up the roof?
The load on the posts is mostly a compression load; I don't see why a 6 inch pine would not be strong enough to support most porch roofs. Maybe I'm missing something?
I'm planning a porch that will surround the entire cabin -- though it will be built separately as John and you advised due to floor depth and sheer strength issues -- probably go with a 6 foot deep porch all around -- posts at distances according to what the span of the beams for the roof will be. So, if I use 4x4's I'm guessing that's probably at least 8' (I wouldn't go further then that) though I'm still just mulling this over and probably ages from doing it.
My plan is to build a post and pier based floor and was originally going to be 4x4 posts going from the pier to the roof beams -- like a pole barn I guess -- with the floor framed into the beams (maybe using recess cuts to fit the rim joist into the posts? -- and hangers to hang floor joists -- then lay down 2x6 decking -- redwood probably and roof with Tin to match the cabin roof -- I saw a Tennessee cabin in here that look so good I couldn't help but wonder if I could use my pines to do the same thing -- though the pine would probably only be in the front section and I'd leave the 4x4's for the rest, less visible sections.
Erik
I think my porch was spec'd 6" square or 8" round doug fir posts. That's with something like 2700lb on it (100 psf snow load) and moderate quake risk.
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=7426.0
This is what we're thinking would be nice surrounding our cabin :)
For those DF posts what was the overall cost?
OlJarhead if I were you I would probably rethink the 6' porch deck. If there is any way possible I would go with 8' deep. Your decking will be 8' demensions and basicly you would have 2' waste on each. The additional rafter length would not be that much more.
I went with 8' and it worked out really well
(https://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd161/redoverfarm/hightop/100_1599-1.jpg)
Quote from: Redoverfarm on February 02, 2010, 01:51:55 PM
OlJarhead if I were you I would probably rethink the 6' porch deck. If there is any way possible I would go with 8' deep. Your decking will be 8' demensions and basicly you would have 2' waste on each. The additional rafter length would not be that much more.
I went with 8' and it worked out really well
(https://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd161/redoverfarm/hightop/100_1599-1.jpg)
Perfect! I was wondering what others did and had debated (with myself 4,5 and 6 foot porches) on this -- mainly this is a surround porch so I though I didn't need 8 feet all the way around but perhaps you have a very good point and after all, that 8 feet will provide a lot of shade in the summer when it gets hot.
Definitely go at least 8" depth for your porches. I ended up going with 10" for my 10x24 doubledecker covered porches and was amazed at what the two extra feet did. I am also a big fan of covered decks/porches for many reasons, including rain, snow, sun and less maintenance. The pine posts can be a real work of art and should be adequate.
Since I'm planning on adding a porch to my cabin this next summer, I appreciate the above discussion. Locals (to L of me and security officer in pic) with porches tell me "make it as wide as possible, you'll wish you had." I will be going with 8', maybe 10', with metal roof, floor supported by treated wood posts and a stout beam.
I think 6" posts from local timber will be sufficient. Pic below is about a 6" post on an 8' wide porch with a metal roof, up the hill from my place.
(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/WindowShade/June05039.jpg)
Note that a smaller, locally cut, post supports a rail that is inlet at the ends into the posts supporting the roof. This porch is at least 15 yrs old and has weathered considerable snow loads and high winds. I plan on about the same setup, but will add balusters 4" OC to provide safety and better screening when I line up on Mongo, the mythical monster buck!
Quote from: Redoverfarm on February 02, 2010, 01:51:55 PM
(https://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd161/redoverfarm/hightop/100_1599-1.jpg)
In this picture the posts appear to be on the deck and holding up the roof. Is this correct? If so, how did you secure them to the deck?
I was thinking that the posts should go to the Pier block I'll use as a foundation for the deck...time to draw me thinks.
Quote from: OlJarhead on February 03, 2010, 12:15:37 PM
Quote from: Redoverfarm on February 02, 2010, 01:51:55 PM
(https://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd161/redoverfarm/hightop/100_1599-1.jpg)
In this picture the posts appear to be on the deck and holding up the roof. Is this correct? If so, how did you secure them to the deck?
I was thinking that the posts should go to the Pier block I'll use as a foundation for the deck...time to draw me thinks.
There is extra blocking at the location under the post/over the piers in between the floor joist. Then they are lagged from underneath.
I used forstner bits to drill the holes in the rails, each piece being slightly larger or smaller than the previous one. Then each piece was carved slightly so it fit the hole tight. No rot showing yet, but mushrooms are starting to grow on some of the railings. No sealer was used either.
Next time ( d*) I will use a tenon cutter.
We also found that 6' is almost too small. Go 8' if in doubt.
The Advantech was later ripped out and composite decking was put in place.
(https://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/MaineRhino/Mountain%20Camp/100_0349-1.jpg)
I live in NC and when we were first starting to cut for our railing we were told to cut in the winter so the sap wouldn't be running. I don't know if this would be a problem for you or not.
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabinwith4-8deck.jpg)
Did this one in Skeptup with a 4 foot deck around the sides and back and an 8 foot deck up front. The clearnance to the roof of the cabin would be about 16 inches to the top of the wall with 1 foot overhand so I don't think snow will back up in there -- we don't get much wind.
Thoughts?
Quote from: Mo on February 03, 2010, 04:44:05 PM
I live in NC and when we were first starting to cut for our railing we were told to cut in the winter so the sap wouldn't be running. I don't know if this would be a problem for you or not.
I usually cut in the spring when the sap is running. That is if you want to peel the bark. If you want the bark to remain then fall is better.
QuoteThoughts?
I'm not sure of the snow load you get there, but a big snowstorm may put alot of snow on those side porches.
But, I like the design. Always did like the wrap-around porches! [cool]
Quote from: MaineRhino on February 03, 2010, 05:19:24 PM
QuoteThoughts?
I'm not sure of the snow load you get there, but a big snowstorm may put alot of snow on those side porches.
But, I like the design. Always did like the wrap-around porches! [cool]
I figure the side porches will be ok since they cover only 4 foot of deck and drop 2 feet over that distance -- the back porch will be a bit worse since the snow on the main roof will pile up on it but so far we've not had more then a couple feet dropping off the main roof (a pile on the front and back of the cabin of about two feet anyway) much of which I think will fall off.
The front porch roof on the other hand would drop 2 feet in 8 so that one might be a little tougher to manage as the 2+ feet of snow shedding off the main roof combined with what's fallen on that roof will create quite the load -- but maybe with strong framing to take the weight it will be ok?
If nothing else I'd have to clean it off periodically -- a big snow fall would suck though! Imagine 2 feet of snow fall! That would pile up several feet (what, maybe 5 or 6) on the porch roof which might be too much.
With serious snow loads you can end up needing pretty chunky beams. For our 100 psf loading we need 6x8s just to hold up 7' of roof (6' porch, 1' overhang) space at 6' centers. With a hip roof, this also meant double 2x10 hip rafters (double 2x8s might have worked, but they wanted the hips deeper than the commons). This all seemed a bit over the top but was reassuring during the recent storms:
(http://www.icsi.berkeley.edu/~davidj/countryplans640/lotsofsnow.jpg)
Fwiw, the deepest porch you could do without engineering under the pre-2007 CA code was 6'. Now I think basically everything is engineered so that probably doesn't matter.
Quote from: OlJarhead on February 02, 2010, 01:20:12 PM
For those DF posts what was the overall cost?
We special-ordered resawn 6x6 posts so they would stain similarly to our resawn plywood siding. Can't remember what they cost but it was expensive - our regular lumber is about 1.5x Home Depot, special order seems to be 1.5x again, and 6x6 #1s seem to be 2X the price of 2x6 #2s (per bf). So I probably payed somewhere north of $3/foot, but the quality was a world apart from big-box lumber. Another consideration is that our lumber yard does only charge $10/roundtrip delivery, which takes 1.5 hours and includes a bunch of dirt road - they work hard for their extra mark up.
I have a set of the giant pencil sharpeners. takes a little practice to make nice straight tenons, but is a lot of fun and it turns out great. Currently just have the inside posts and rails done, filling in later with large scale chain maille. i'll be doing the deck rails the same this summer only not peeling them.
(http://www.talltimberroad.com/cabin/images/stairrail.jpg)
I love it! That's the same idea I have -- did you get your cutters from lumberjacktools? or somewhere else?
I'd be curious if there much of a price difference and your opinion on them?
Quote from: OlJarhead on February 05, 2010, 01:08:53 AM
I love it! That's the same idea I have -- did you get your cutters from lumberjacktools? or somewhere else?
I'd be curious if there much of a price difference and your opinion on them?
I think i looked at their site when shopping, and ended up buying a set off ebay, from a seller called indestix. Pretty similiar design, but much less expensive. I've been happy, seem well made and work well. One main difference is mine are a single blade design, theres are a 2 blade. My guess would be the two blade would work better, but I'm happy with mine for the price savings. Here is a link to a current auction of the set I got. http://cgi.ebay.com/Multi-Tenon-cutter-and-2-log-furniture-rustic_W0QQitemZ270527468639QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRouters_Bits?hash=item3efcb1945f (http://cgi.ebay.com/Multi-Tenon-cutter-and-2-log-furniture-rustic_W0QQitemZ270527468639QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRouters_Bits?hash=item3efcb1945f)
I have some tenon cutters which are the large to huge pencil sharpener type and also have the router-based tenon maker which is better for the really large tenons > 1.5" diameter. If you haven't found out about Baileys Logging supply it's time you knew about them. Good products, prices and service. I've been buying from them since 1984.
http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=KW162&catID=230 (http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=KW162&catID=230)
You can use logs for posts and railings. The trailer roof in the picture below is supported by peeled Douglas-fir posts which are about 3 to 5 inches in diameter. The roof poles are about the same. They have supported that roof for about 20 or 30 years at least. They were built by the previous owner of the property.
More snow means you would need bigger posts, and try to keep the branch/knot size to something small (less than 1/4th the diameter of the tree stem at that point)
(https://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx172/Pine_Cone/Old_and_New.jpg)
I'd go for 8-10" base diameter (after peeling) at least given your snow load. Ponderosa pine trees 12" diameter normally have about 20-30 board feet of scale volume, at $250/thousand board feet that makes a 12" tree worth about $5-$7.50 each. You might be able to find someone willing to sell you some for firewood if you don't have ones on your property you want to cut.
Good luck!
Thanks -- Bailey's rocks :)
I might have to try their tenon cutter only becuase I have an old 1/2" router that just sits around doing nothing and I need an excuse to use it ;)
Actually, for $150 it's a LOT cheaper too. Would be faster I suspect.
Now I just have to figure out when the best time (and alternate times) is to cut down the pines I'll use for the loft rail so I can get started on that.
Don't have too many BIG trees so don't think I'll take down enough to make my porch with but I might consider thinning out the trees a bit around that cabin and use them for lumber perhaps.
The nice thing about the router-based tenon cutter is that you can cut multiple sized tenons with the one tool. The basic setup cuts 5/8", 1", 1 1/2" and 2" tenons which pretty much covers the range of sizes you are likely to want. If you go for the drill-based cutters one cutter can cost over $100.
As for when to cut your trees, times a-wasting!
From a wood quality, minimal moisture content = fewer cracks and shorter dry time late winter is the best time to cut down trees.
From an ease of bark removal late spring/early summer is the best time to cut. Also the best time for maximum logging damage for the same reason. Not a huge problem with pine, but not so great for hemlock and true firs.
From a bark beetle control standpoint late summer is the best time to cut, but if you debark the logs quickly this is not an issue.
If there isn't too much snow this year I'd be cutting them ASAP, which in your case is probably March or April, still long before growth starts at that elevation. If you can get the bark off before the end of April or early May you will minimize beetle and blue stain problems and maximize this years drying season.
Sometimes people will leave the limbs on for a month or three to dry the stem quicker. Think of it like your Christmas tree. The leaves/needles will continue to transpire after the tree is cut. The company I work for used to manage property in Oregon south of Bend. Leaving limbs on after falling was a pretty common practice there for biomass/pulp logs since dry logs weigh less and you can put more on a truck by waiting for them to dry out some. They would cut the trees, let them dry for most of the summer, and then chip them on site.
All depends on how many trees and who's going to do the logging.
Quote from: Pine Cone on February 09, 2010, 11:53:31 AM
The nice thing about the router-based tenon cutter is that you can cut multiple sized tenons with the one tool. The basic setup cuts 5/8", 1", 1 1/2" and 2" tenons which pretty much covers the range of sizes you are likely to want. If you go for the drill-based cutters one cutter can cost over $100.
As for when to cut your trees, times a-wasting!
From a wood quality, minimal moisture content = fewer cracks and shorter dry time late winter is the best time to cut down trees.
From an ease of bark removal late spring/early summer is the best time to cut. Also the best time for maximum logging damage for the same reason. Not a huge problem with pine, but not so great for hemlock and true firs.
From a bark beetle control standpoint late summer is the best time to cut, but if you debark the logs quickly this is not an issue.
If there isn't too much snow this year I'd be cutting them ASAP, which in your case is probably March or April, still long before growth starts at that elevation. If you can get the bark off before the end of April or early May you will minimize beetle and blue stain problems and maximize this years drying season.
Sometimes people will leave the limbs on for a month or three to dry the stem quicker. Think of it like your Christmas tree. The leaves/needles will continue to transpire after the tree is cut. The company I work for used to manage property in Oregon south of Bend. Leaving limbs on after falling was a pretty common practice there for biomass/pulp logs since dry logs weigh less and you can put more on a truck by waiting for them to dry out some. They would cut the trees, let them dry for most of the summer, and then chip them on site.
All depends on how many trees and who's going to do the logging.
Wow! Thanks! That means I start soon :) I'll be up there for the weekend on the 20th of Feb and then for a week in March :D
If I can have them dried and cut by September (is that long enough dry time?) then by hunting season I should be able to have the loft rails installed :D
We were thinking of timber rails up the stairs at the Duckpond, but regulations got in the way a bit.
We have to space rails much closer than these and the building inspector comes with a rubber ball that can't be pushed between two railings - or it must be rectified.
The thinking is that a child could either get its head stuck between the railings, or could squeeze through and fall to the lower floor.
We went for the metal (bullrush and dragonfly) ones in the end and fortunately they all passed the ball test!
cecilia
www.duckpond-design.com.au/theduckpond
Quote from: cecilia on February 09, 2010, 03:46:49 PM
We were thinking of timber rails up the stairs at the Duckpond, but regulations got in the way a bit.
We have to space rails much closer than these and the building inspector comes with a rubber ball that can't be pushed between two railings - or it must be rectified.
The thinking is that a child could either get its head stuck between the railings, or could squeeze through and fall to the lower floor.
We went for the metal (bullrush and dragonfly) ones in the end and fortunately they all passed the ball test!
cecilia
www.duckpond-design.com.au/theduckpond
I don't support "inspectors" or the idea of them ;) But hey, if you have to have them then I guess the only answer is to make it the way they want it (and remove later :P )
To pass the rubber-ball test in an interesting fashion you just need to do a bit more work.
These designs started with a look at the rustic railings in the film "On Golden Pond"
An initial design...
(https://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx172/Pine_Cone/RailingDetails2.jpg)
The first prototype (very thin railings)
(https://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx172/Pine_Cone/RailingPrototype1.jpg)
A more refined prototype, still needs a few more pieces to pass the rubber-ball test... You can easily guess where they need to go.
(https://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx172/Pine_Cone/RailingPrototype.jpg)
I did these last winter while waiting for cabin-building season to start again. One thing I did learn since then is that treating them with sodium borate will make them last longer since it helps prevent decay and insect attack. I'm using this stuff these days... You paint a couple of coats on and then apply your normal finish coat, in my case Defy Fortified Epoxy in Natural Pine.
http://www.loghomestore.com/borates.shtml#Penetreat (http://www.loghomestore.com/borates.shtml#Penetreat)
Very cool.
I'd heard that there should be some kind of treatment to give raw wood before sealing.
I just found this thread, I see I am a couple weeks late coming in to the party, but have a question regarding this issue. I, too, plan to use pine logs/poles for my porches. I am curious how you would deal with the pine sap if you cut your pine trees after the sap rises in the spring? Seems like I remember these things will bleed forever and a day if cut during warm weather. Is there a way to stop that, or are you trading off one benefit for a different one (ease of peeling your logs)? Also, I remember reading many years ago that the time of month you cut a tree down will affect the length of time it takes the tree to decay/rot. Anyone else ever heard of this?
thanks, frazoo
If you have ever dealth with some of the old time signs they prove very true today from everything about building fence in the dark of the moon to planting potato's . I remember a comment about that but just don't recall. Will have to get my books out again and look. But I do know that to lessen the sapwood in freshly cut trees you should do it before the sap rises which is early spring to fall.
Interesting stuff -- I cut 20 or so poles last weekend and can't wait to get back and cut some more! Also have to get a bark stripper (not sure what it's called) and other tools for this task.
In the mean time I have to fix the jeep though.....
I generally use a "draw knife" on smaller stuff and even a mattock will work on larger size.
Or if you wanted to make the investment you can choose.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_6970_100+1466+771089
Quote from: Redoverfarm on February 26, 2010, 01:12:17 PM
I generally use a "draw knife" on smaller stuff and even a mattock will work on larger size.
Or if you wanted to make the investment you can choose.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_6970_100+1466+771089
Draw Knife! That was it -- our local Ranch and Home has them, but they are made in China and I HATE buying made in China crap.
Any good American made ones around anymore?
OlJarhead might check at some antique shops or flea markets. They usually have some older ones that the steel is much better quality. Even if they are a little worn they will sharpen much easier and keep an edge longer. Just be careful sharpening them. Don't ask me how I know.
Here is some Made in the USA
http://www.lumberjacktools.com/
Quote from: Redoverfarm on February 26, 2010, 02:35:26 PM
OlJarhead might check at some antique shops or flea markets. They usually have some older ones that the steel is much better quality. Even if they are a little worn they will sharpen much easier and keep an edge longer. Just be careful sharpening them. Don't ask me how I know.
Here is some Made in the USA
http://www.lumberjacktools.com/
Oh sure -- send me back there! I have that site book marked TWICE for their tenon cutters....didn't think to see if they made the draw knives in the US though..thanks!
Maybe you can find something here w/o chop sticks
http://www.stillmadeinusa.com/support.html
http://barrtools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BST&Product_Code=DKCB&Category_Code=DK
Oh man now you are talking! That will probably outlast 10 of those crappy Chinese made ones!!!
THANKS! I might even order today!
Here is the one I used. Made in France of all places. Great handles and good steel.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=44502&cat=1,130,43332 (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=44502&cat=1,130,43332)
For larger logs I used a tool from my local Home Depot. I think it is made for removing roofing.
(https://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx172/Pine_Cone/Debarking_2006.jpg)
I feel kind of sorry for you guys. Draw knives are "a dime a dozen" around here at auctions. ;)
Had I known there was a market for them elsewhere, I would have bought some more and sold them to you guys at my cost.
Do we have a "tools wanted" thread somewhere?
Quote from: poppy on February 27, 2010, 12:17:37 PM
I feel kind of sorry for you guys. Draw knives are "a dime a dozen" around here at auctions. ;)
Had I known there was a market for them elsewhere, I would have bought some more and sold them to you guys at my cost.
Do we have a "tools wanted" thread somewhere?
Glad you thought of that Poppy. I am a sucker for antique tools. Not to display but to use. As OlJarhead stated the China knives are not worth taking home. I would rather buy one that has had a previous life that I can sharpen and will still out live me.
Quote from: Redoverfarm on February 27, 2010, 01:06:06 PM
Quote from: poppy on February 27, 2010, 12:17:37 PM
I feel kind of sorry for you guys. Draw knives are "a dime a dozen" around here at auctions. ;)
Had I known there was a market for them elsewhere, I would have bought some more and sold them to you guys at my cost.
Do we have a "tools wanted" thread somewhere?
Glad you thought of that Poppy. I am a sucker for antique tools. Not to display but to use. As OlJarhead stated the China knives are not worth taking home. I would rather buy one that has had a previous life that I can sharpen and will still out live me.
I agree!
Now for the good news! I found a Tennessee made (correction from earlier when I was thinking Vermont)... Draw Knife at Ranch and Home for $36.99 -- Made in the US of A!
Decided I'd give that a try becuase the price was significantly less then the rather awesome looking ones on the net -- I'd love one of those I posted about above and know NOTHING about them! It just has that hand made look that well, makes me want it.
Anyway, I bought the $40 Made in USA model at R&H and will give it a try soon :)
But a Tools for Sale or Wanted forum would be good! I've love a really good Swede Saw actually. Not one of those crappy Chinese ones I've seen lately that would fall apart in a hurry, but something that might actually cut a tree or twelve :)
Quote from: poppy on February 27, 2010, 12:17:37 PM
Do we have a "tools wanted" thread somewhere?
We need one!
Seriously with the great finds you make at auctions I would love to buy some tools from you. I make it to a few auctions, but nothing with the selection and quality of the stuff I have seen you post.
Drawknives, adzs, broad axes, chisels, and bits would be on my want to have list.
Oh yeah...I've really got a thing for Disston saws. I've got a couple of old ones, and they are just awesome to use. :)
Another peeling idea, and this is definitely not for everyone, but we cut our pine logs and then haul them to the goat pasture. 4 goats can clean up one of our tree is 3-4 days. It's the best job you will EVER see on peeling! Seriously. :)
Quote from: Kat on March 05, 2010, 03:35:00 PM
Another peeling idea, and this is definitely not for everyone, but we cut our pine logs and then haul them to the goat pasture. 4 goats can clean up one of our tree is 3-4 days. It's the best job you will EVER see on peeling! Seriously. :)
I'll bring 60 poles by this afternoon! :D
Actually, I had no problems using my new Draw Knife and am ready to get up there and get peeling! I like the work :)
But, I'll need a work bench (gotta build that ;) ) and probably should wait a couple months at least for them to dry some - though I'm not sure about that.
One thing I noticed what our Noble Fir from Christmas was still VERY pitchy...so I'm wondering what you do about that? Or does it dry up eventually?