Okanogan 14x24 by a lurker :)

Started by Oljarhead, September 21, 2009, 02:53:09 PM

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Shawn B

Could the collar bracket be installed underneath inside the eve?   ???  I'm not familiar with that style bracket. 

When you have time I'm curious to see pics of the interior layout.

Is there a reason that you did not run the chimney pipe straight up and out? Less class A pipe that way. Anyway I think it looks good either way.

Shawn
"The natural liberty of man is to be free from any superior power on Earth, and not to be under the will or legislative authority of man, but only to have the law of nature for his rule." Samuel Adams

OlJarhead

Quote from: Shawn B on July 22, 2010, 05:54:13 PM
Could the collar bracket be installed underneath inside the eve?   ???  I'm not familiar with that style bracket. 

When you have time I'm curious to see pics of the interior layout.

Is there a reason that you did not run the chimney pipe straight up and out? Less class A pipe that way. Anyway I think it looks good either way.

Shawn

Yes the support can be installed underneath and I may resort to that but it will require some changes to the way I've put it all together :(  Funny thing is that I was originally going to install that way, saw that it would be easier on top and went that route....

I'll post some interior shots for ya since I just happen to have some ready :)


OlJarhead


Vermont Castings Aspen (Thanks to MountainDon I was able to get a stove that fits the size of the cabin well I think).


The stove is installed just off center about two feet to provide clearance for the loft window (which is centered).  The stove pipe goes out the wall to give more usable space in the loft.


The bathroom and 'kitchen' will be drywalled and the rest of the cabin will have knotty pine walls :)
Here you can see the makeshift kitchen and the area in front of the bathroom door will house a Futon couch/bed rather then the chairs and dog cage we had there this time (speaking of dog cages, we found cage training has been a blessing for our lab and he loves his 'den' which we take with us).


OlJarhead


Another angle at the kitchen/bath/sleeping area -- I'll get better pictures one of these days when I remember my 35mm camera and 28mil lense


This is basically the 'living' space but I'm using it as a bedroom for the time being....ignore the evil brown and black rifle in the corner.... :o

Shawn B

Interior layout looks good....more room than some would think :) Do you plan on living there full time after it is complete?   Good luck on fixing the flashing problem. Oh and I like "evil black" rifles  [cool]

I wonder if the composting toilets are "legal" inside city limits? Cheaper than hooking up to the sewage plant in some areas.

I like the Aspen stove and also the Jotul 602.....from my limited research these are the only 2 small stoves that I can find for small cabins...say around 500-700 sq feet. I'm leaning toward the Aspen because it has a clearer view of the fire and a ash pan.

Ordered the Big Enchilada plans today.  :)

Thanks,
Shawn
"The natural liberty of man is to be free from any superior power on Earth, and not to be under the will or legislative authority of man, but only to have the law of nature for his rule." Samuel Adams


OlJarhead

Quote from: Shawn B on July 23, 2010, 11:22:10 AM
Interior layout looks good....more room than some would think :) Do you plan on living there full time after it is complete?   Good luck on fixing the flashing problem. Oh and I like "evil black" rifles  [cool]

I wonder if the composting toilets are "legal" inside city limits? Cheaper than hooking up to the sewage plant in some areas.

I like the Aspen stove and also the Jotul 602.....from my limited research these are the only 2 small stoves that I can find for small cabins...say around 500-700 sq feet. I'm leaning toward the Aspen because it has a clearer view of the fire and a ash pan.

Ordered the Big Enchilada plans today.  :)

Thanks,
Shawn

Atually, the loft is the real bonus :)  I'll post another couple of that here...it's BIG....

The evil black and brown rifle is an M1A Scout Squad :)  It's my 'bear and two legged critter repellent' ;)  Loaded with 165grain btsn bullets -- magazines of 20 each...think that ought to do it?  *snicker*

Don't plan on living in the cabin unless of course I'm forced to farm in order to survive...which might well happen if you follow economics at all...but I digress  d* It's a vacation/hunting cabin for now ;)

The Aspen is only one of those two allowed in WA State (though I shouldn't have cared since no one else does in my neck of the woods) so I went with that but the Jotul has a better reputation I think...however, Don is very happy with his Aspen so I got one too :)  Thanks to CP's forums!!

Composting toilets are legal everywhere as far as I know BUT (and it's a big BUT) the State might insist you hook up and pay sewage even if you don't use it.  In my case, if I asked them (as in went down and paid the tax to have paper that says I asked them *hint*) then they would demand that I put in septic or destroyed my well (or so a friend tells me who called them directly and told them he wanted to do what I'm doing in a far far place in the county ;) ) -- they thought the composting toilet was a quaint idea and I should do that AND spend the money to pay for permits to put in septic AND pay a contractor to put in septic and never use it because hey, they need the money, er I mean, hey, it's more sellable or some such crap.

So basically I think they can.....never mind I won't go there....I think building in REMOTE hard to get to places is a good option today.

The plans are great and what I like about them is that I have now plans for each different sized small cabin and how to put them all together to make a bigger one and more.  Lots of great info and John's done a great job.  Price is right too!

I intend to build ALL the cabins in the plans too :)  After all, my wife and I have 5 kids between the two of us and only one is still in school....so we need the extra room!

Sassy

It's starting to look like Home Sweet Home!  Nice job  :)
http://glennkathystroglodytecabin.blogspot.com/

You will know the truth & the truth will set you free

OlJarhead


Large loft is 130 square feet.(10x13)


Small loft is 78 square feet (6x13)

My buddy Biggy (Shawnee Thunderpony Big Mountain) posed to give perspective :)

OlJarhead

Quote from: Sassy on July 23, 2010, 01:20:51 PM
It's starting to look like Home Sweet Home!  Nice job  :)

Thanks :)  Starting to feel like home too!


Sassy

Those lofts really give you lots of extra room!
http://glennkathystroglodytecabin.blogspot.com/

You will know the truth & the truth will set you free

Shawn B

2' knee wall 12/12 pitch 9' at peak bottom of cross braces at 8' or 7' 6" ?  ???

I think Mtn. Don found a winner of a stove......maybe Vermont Castings could have a CP member coupon or something. Or do you just "drop" Mtn. Don's name when ordering  ;)

The M1A is a real nice rifle.....hard to beat 7.62x51 for a MBR.

Back to the stove does the cook plate thing on top actually remove or is it decorative?
"The natural liberty of man is to be free from any superior power on Earth, and not to be under the will or legislative authority of man, but only to have the law of nature for his rule." Samuel Adams

OlJarhead

Sassy -- yes they do!  LOTS in fact my wife thinks that we should take one :)

Shawn -- bottom of the collar ties is at 7 feet but a note here:  There are no rafter ties because of the 2 foot knee wall so I put collar ties in on every rafter pair and I'm using light rafters (2x6).  Technically this is a 'no no' I'm told but I'm also told that lots of people have done it and it's been seen on old (read 50-100 years old) cabins that are still standing.  I think it's fine, which is why I did it, but the more technical engineering types will say it's not.

If one was worried, however, I guess you could go with 2x10 rafters and heavier ties and put two ladders into the lofts (individually) and then use beams between the lofts but I'm not worried -- I think the 2x6 walls and loft joists will do the job.

John ought to contact Vermont Castings and let them know what's going on here and maybe they will sponsor the site ;)

As for the M1A -- it is in my humble opinion anyway, one of the very best MBR's ever produced.  I hold it above the FN-FAL's etc which I've trained on even.  It's a fantastic rifle and in certain configurations (Whitefeather for example) is not only powerful and rapid firing but accurate at 1000+ yards!  Mine, being a Scout Squad isn't quite as accurate out that far but I'd take 800 yard shots if I had to!

Hi Road

Quote from: OlJarhead on July 22, 2010, 08:07:28 PM

Vermont Castings Aspen (Thanks to MountainDon I was able to get a stove that fits the size of the cabin well I think).


The stove is installed just off center about two feet to provide clearance for the loft window (which is centered).  The stove pipe goes out the wall to give more usable space in the loft.


The bathroom and 'kitchen' will be drywalled and the rest of the cabin will have knotty pine walls :)
Here you can see the makeshift kitchen and the area in front of the bathroom door will house a Futon couch/bed rather then the chairs and dog cage we had there this time (speaking of dog cages, we found cage training has been a blessing for our lab and he loves his 'den' which we take with us).



I have followed your fine project for some time now and I find myself checking your progress as my first assignment when I open the CP page. I know you take caution to heart.  I trust you will see my comment as constructive.  Now, you should be snug-as-bug come a cold day with that fine stove.  There is a very important safety device I would recommend.  Did you install the combustion air inlet device?  As you complete the house it may become very "air tight" and you may find yourself competing for oxygen with the stove.  Most stove shops sell a thru the wall volumetric damper that will solve the problem.  The one I have seen looks like a dryer vent but has a grill on the inside and a small two-way flapper door that allows fresh air in when needed.  Of course you can always crack a window too.  Check with the manufacture of the stove if you have any questions.  Keep up the good work.  Happy Trails, John

OlJarhead

Quote from: Hi Road on July 24, 2010, 11:18:14 PM
I have followed your fine project for some time now and I find myself checking your progress as my first assignment when I open the CP page. I know you take caution to heart.  I trust you will see my comment as constructive.  Now, you should be snug-as-bug come a cold day with that fine stove.  There is a very important safety device I would recommend.  Did you install the combustion air inlet device?  As you complete the house it may become very "air tight" and you may find yourself competing for oxygen with the stove.  Most stove shops sell a thru the wall volumetric damper that will solve the problem.  The one I have seen looks like a dryer vent but has a grill on the inside and a small two-way flapper door that allows fresh air in when needed.  Of course you can always crack a window too.  Check with the manufacture of the stove if you have any questions.  Keep up the good work.  Happy Trails, John

Glad you brought that up :)

When I ordered the stove they mentioned the cold air intake (or whatever it's called) and I opted to wait to buy it at the time but intend to do so later.  Then honestly I forgot about it for a while (it was a few months or more since I bought the stove) but I remembered it when I brought the stove out to the cabin and continue to remind myself to get the intake because, as you suspect, our cabin will be pretty air tight and I don't want to run the risk of CO2 poisoning!

But thanks for bringing that up because it IS an important addition in a project like this.
Erik


Shawn B

Erik,


I'm in the HVAC trade and have installed numerous combustion air inlets on wood stoves. I use the all galvanized steel air hoods with 1/4 inch hardware cloth in them. Also I usually use rigid pipe, warm air gauge (28 ga, though 26 would be just fine) over the z-flex "slinky" tube. If you go with the air hood DO NOT GET THE ONE WITH THE DAMPER. The damper is used for exhaust, for clothes dryers, range exhaust hoods, ventilation ext. Now if all you can find is the ones with a damper, you should be able to drill the rivets out that hold it in place....no big deal takes like 10 sec with a good bit. Also this pipe will/maybe sweat in unconditioned spaces, so if that is a concern it should be insulated.

One more thing if you do not want a air hood on the outside of the cabin, because of looks or whatever. You can run the pipe through the floor, cut out a cap leaving about a 1/4 of metal on edges then spot weld or solder some 1/4 hardware clothe in it. We make these a lot for commercial exhaust and intake applications. Also if bugs are a problem you might want to put some small opening window screen over the hardware cloth.


Thanks,

Shawn

sorry to post so much...thought it might be relevant
"The natural liberty of man is to be free from any superior power on Earth, and not to be under the will or legislative authority of man, but only to have the law of nature for his rule." Samuel Adams

OlJarhead

Quote from: Shawn B on July 25, 2010, 09:47:34 AM
Erik,


I'm in the HVAC trade and have installed numerous combustion air inlets on wood stoves. I use the all galvanized steel air hoods with 1/4 inch hardware cloth in them. Also I usually use rigid pipe, warm air gauge (28 ga, though 26 would be just fine) over the z-flex "slinky" tube. If you go with the air hood DO NOT GET THE ONE WITH THE DAMPER. The damper is used for exhaust, for clothes dryers, range exhaust hoods, ventilation ext. Now if all you can find is the ones with a damper, you should be able to drill the rivets out that hold it in place....no big deal takes like 10 sec with a good bit. Also this pipe will/maybe sweat in unconditioned spaces, so if that is a concern it should be insulated.

One more thing if you do not want a air hood on the outside of the cabin, because of looks or whatever. You can run the pipe through the floor, cut out a cap leaving about a 1/4 of metal on edges then spot weld or solder some 1/4 hardware clothe in it. We make these a lot for commercial exhaust and intake applications. Also if bugs are a problem you might want to put some small opening window screen over the hardware cloth.


Thanks,

Shawn

sorry to post so much...thought it might be relevant


Good post thanks :)

Don did something with dryer hose and I was wondering if I could do something similar myself...need to go look at the book for the stove before heading back to the cabin. 

Shawn B

Erik,

You can use dryer vent if you want. I have found that most people use the hard pipe in exposed locations, then transfer over to dryer vent in the craw space. Also you can paint the galvanized with stove paint too match the stove. Use a special primer for galvanized or simply wipe the pipe and fittings down with vinegar, let dry then paint. They might make 4" black pipe and elbows, but I don't remember ever seeing any. Check at a local stove shop.

Personally I think in your situation I would install a elbow on the stove inlet and go straight through the floor, install a cap cut out with screen installed. Paint the exposed fittings black or use black pipe if available. Then if you ever install a skirt around the foundation you can add the air hood, remove the screened cap, and run dryer vent from the pipe to the hood. Either way the materials are quite inexpensive.

Shawn
"The natural liberty of man is to be free from any superior power on Earth, and not to be under the will or legislative authority of man, but only to have the law of nature for his rule." Samuel Adams

OlJarhead

Quote from: Shawn B on July 25, 2010, 03:39:49 PM
Erik,

You can use dryer vent if you want. I have found that most people use the hard pipe in exposed locations, then transfer over to dryer vent in the craw space. Also you can paint the galvanized with stove paint too match the stove. Use a special primer for galvanized or simply wipe the pipe and fittings down with vinegar, let dry then paint. They might make 4" black pipe and elbows, but I don't remember ever seeing any. Check at a local stove shop.

Personally I think in your situation I would install a elbow on the stove inlet and go straight through the floor, install a cap cut out with screen installed. Paint the exposed fittings black or use black pipe if available. Then if you ever install a skirt around the foundation you can add the air hood, remove the screened cap, and run dryer vent from the pipe to the hood. Either way the materials are quite inexpensive.

Shawn

Not sure I want to go through the floor though (but it would hide it) since it's insulated.  But I guess it would be fine to punch through the insulation and put it there...then I could bend it out to the outer wall if I wanted but come UNDER them....I just planned on punching right out the (insulated -- doh!) wall behind the stove and put something in to keep the rain and bugs out...and maybe just paint it brown to hide it.


Shawn B

Erik,

Here is a link to the type of air hood I was referring to. Check at a local HVAC shop they should have them, some shops stock brown as well. The reason I recommended going through the floor is it would have the least amount of exposed pipe and IMHO would make a cleaner install. Going through the wall is fine as well. Don't worry about the insulation. We run the intakes in joist bays all the time. That way the insulators will insulate them and we don't have to spend the time and money to wrap the pipe with foil or fiberglass insulation.

http://www.hvacquick.com/products/residential/Ventilation-Accessories/Discharge-Caps/wall-hoods-

Shawn
"The natural liberty of man is to be free from any superior power on Earth, and not to be under the will or legislative authority of man, but only to have the law of nature for his rule." Samuel Adams

Redoverfarm

OlJarhead on  my fresh air intake it was set in a masonry wall.  I used 4" schedule 40 pipe through the block.  Then I bought some 3" black stove pipe which was the outlet size of my stove ( Hearthstone) and used a black 4X3 reducer.  I had to make the 90 deg turn in direction before the PVC and used adjustable 3" elbow.   The fresh air intake will not get that hot and I only used hardware cloth to keep the critters out.  Bugs will only make it into the firebox and not into the room.  You may want to keep inspecting the pipe to make sure that wasp do not make a nest that will constrict the airflow.  


Shawn B

Erik,

How did the roof flashing and support turn out?


Shawn
"The natural liberty of man is to be free from any superior power on Earth, and not to be under the will or legislative authority of man, but only to have the law of nature for his rule." Samuel Adams

OlJarhead

Admitedly I haven't done any cabin work lately :(  Been home about a week and a half and either trying to do gardening etc or looking for work.

Have some reloading to do and some cabin thinking to do...so maybe I'll get something going soon.

It's the hot time of the year and I hate it! hahahaha  I don't much like weather over 75...ok I can do 80 but more then that and your pushing it!  So I'll probably go out only once in August for a 4 or 5 day trip and MAYBE a short one day deal to do clean up...then it's wait for fall!!!

OlJarhead

Cut my finger reloading (actually drilling out primers -- DOH!) so took some time to surf and found this site: http://logdovetailjig.com/cutting_dovetail_notches.html

Cool

JavaMan

Quote from: OlJarhead on July 31, 2010, 12:39:23 PM
Cut my finger reloading (actually drilling out primers -- DOH!) so took some time to surf and found this site: http://logdovetailjig.com/cutting_dovetail_notches.html

Cool

Sweet! I like it!  I've been looking for something like that for a while now.  That will come in handy when I finally start on the cabins next year.

OlJarhead

Our rack for the solar panels is coming along nicely! :D  It's going to be heavy, but sturdy I think.  My neighbor has a small business doing fabrication and welding and took a look at what I wanted to do and quoted me $325 for the pole and rack.  The pole is 3" sch 40 steel and 8 feet long.  We'll put it 3' in the ground with concrete (hoping that's deep enough to carry the load).  The panel rack will be 2" steel angle and welded (saw his progress and it's very nice work) together with the outside all nicely fit together in a ~10' x ~5 1/2' rectangle with two center bars (angle) running the length and two cross bars running side to side (so a double cross in the middle of the rectangle).  Then there will be a swivel head on the pole at the top that will also tilt from 33 degrees to 63.  This way I can rotate them into the sun as well as change the tilt in different times of year. 

My idea was to create a semi-fixed pole that could be converted into a tracking pole some day.