CountryPlans Forum

Greetings All,

First visited this website over a year ago as I was contemplating the construction of a small cabin on 20 acres for recreational use.  Last summer I built it to the point of being weather-tight for the winter.  Have been taking lots of pics with a good digital camera, but the .jpg's are double the size allowed here, so need to do some cropping, etc. before I can post them.  Am retired, so intend to spend time soon working on the pics and writing more about the experience.  Knew much going into the process, and learned much more as it progressed.  Should be able to share numerous tips and ideas that others will find useful.  It's a simple, one room cabin of 320sf (16' x 20'), with no electricity or plumbing.  Haul water from a state park nearby, but have good potential for a sandpoint well.  Plan to heat with a wood stove, and use propane for cooking, light, and refrig.  Initially put a small travel trailer on the site for shelter, and built a nice outhouse (tips & pics on that coming too).  Have kept good records on costs, with the intention of keeping them low.  Currently looks like the total will end up under $20/sf.  Since I'm single and didn't want to inflate the cost by hiring labor, intentionally selected plans that would not involve materials too heavy or awkward to handle alone - safely.  Toughest jobs have been completed, and have not had any outside assistance.  Although I'm 59 yrs of age, am in good health and physcal condition, so a project like this was reasonabe.

It's a 6 hr drive from my home (Olympia area) to the cabin across 4 mountain passes, so usually go for a week at a time.  Have not yet gone over in the winter.  Area usually gets considerable snow in the winter, and the temp can go to -20F (3K elev).  But Hey, I'm from MN, so no big whoop!

Woodswalker

Welcome to the forum, Woodswalker.  Sounds like an interesting project but way too cold for me. :-/

You can start a free Photobucket account and load any size pictures you want and it will autoatically size them to the option you set - Web Page option is the bigger size we use here as I recall.

Copy the IMG tag they generate and paste it to your posting and it will show up here.

Glenn,

Thanks for the greeting and info.  Briefly checked Photobucket and liked what I saw.  Will give it a try - should save considerable time.

Cabin site is on a S-facing slope and really bakes all summer.  Will be adding a porch for shade and plant some trees for same.  Trees will be a test of wills with the deer.  Dug 2.5 ft. down (by hand) for cabin posts, expecting to encounter gravel and rocks.  Was pleasantly surprised to encounter only dark loam prairie soil, which is easy digging.  Locals say area was once part of a 5,000 acre cattle ranch operated on horseback.

Steve

Any permits to deal with?

Not sure if they would grow there or not but Hops were a plant the pioneers grew and they provide fast shade and nice vines.

Glenn,

Cabin is located in the poorest county in the state, and they seem to encourage development.  They have adopted some international building code by reference, and have some setbacks from property lines, lakes, streams, etc.  Since I'm not proposing to have electricity or plumbing in the cabin, and will not use it as a permanent residence, they are treating it as a "recreational outbuilding."  An inspector has been out once to look at the enclosed structure, and told me to call him again in the spring when it has been insulated, but not sheetrocked.  He didn't mention anything about the privy and travel trailer.

Thanks for the tip re hops.  Friends of mine brew their own beer, so maybe they'd be interested too.  Wonder if deer like hops.......

Steve

QuoteHops
I have some decorative hops planted elsewhere out in the open and although there are deer tracks all around, they do not touch the hops. ...
www.deerislandbrewery.com/hops.html

We have one little plant of hops.  Very nice vines and nice green all summer.  They grow them on the pioneer cabin porches in Yosemite.

Glad to hear of your rather helpful inspector. And looking forward to seeing a snapshot or two. I don't know exactly where you are but I love that corner of WA.

Sounds wonderful Woodswalker.  Keep us posted and would love to see those pictures.

Congratulations on your cabin Steve.  You give me inspiration.  I am planning on a small place myself in northern Wisconsin on 30-ac.  Its wooded with a lot of spruce and balsam fir, and considered using the native wood.  But, Ill be tackling the job mostly by myself, so, I was thinking that I'd use dimensional lumber.  What size lumber did you use, and how did that work heaving the rafters up on your own?  
Looking forward to a few pics.

Cheers,
Chris

Hi Chris in WI,

I used to have a small cabin in WI when I lived in MN.  Didn't build that one, but did do a privy and a deck.  I intentionally picked a plan for my cabin out here that involved materials that I could handle by myself.  Largest piece of lumber was a 20' - 2" x !0" ridge beam, and it had to be hefted higher than anything else.  Figured out a way to do it myself.  Rafters were 2 x 8's, and not much of a problem.  The other thing that really was a challenge was installing a 4' x 5', fixed pane window (for the great view).  I think it weighed nearly 200lbs, but figured a way to lift it into place using a small block & tackle.  Much of the building would have been much easier with a second person, and much safer too.  Safety is very, very important in a project like this.  Pretty hard to complete the job with a broken arm or worse.  I'll try to upload some pics this morning to the site Glenn suggested to get the file sizes reduced enough to post them here later today.  At some point I intend to write a detailed account of the building process to share online with others.  Have lots of good pics covering the whole thing, including the privy.  Thanks for your interest, and congrats on getting your land.

Steve

Tried attaching pics from Photobucket to an earlier reply, but no go.  Will try just copying the IMG's here instead:

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Instead of the img source tag, copy the bottom one - the IMG tag line.

Looks great Steve!  I can se the window you referred to...I never thought of that; I suppose that would be pretty heavy.  Is that a river I see in the valley?  Must be nice to have that view through the big window.  Looks like you used concrete pillars and 4x4s for the foundation.

Although the land I will be building on is in Wisconsin, Im living on the central coast of California.  Im from Wisconsin, and refuse to sell the land there, so Im finally getting around to fullfilling the dream of putting up the cabin.  Where about was your cabin in Wisconsin?
cheers,
chris

Hi Chris,

Used concrete "pyramid" blocks with metal brackets embedded on the tops.  These are usually used above ground for decks.  Bottoms of treated 4 x 4 posts were screwed to the brackets.  Placed two layers of 2" thick x foot square concrete pads in the hole first (leveled), and then set the pyramid, with post attached, into the hole.  Back-filled with small rocks.  One nice thing about this setup is that in the future, if one post settles or decays, it can be replaced/repaired easily.

Water down in the valley is lake Curlew.  It's large enough to be on the highway maps, about 10 miles E of town of Republic.  My property is about 1/3 the way up a large hill at about 3,000ft. elevation.  Mountains beyond Lake Curlew go to 7,000ft.  It's a beautiful view.  Area is only about 15 miles from Canada.

My property in WI was at Turtle Lake, about 25 miles E of St. Croix Falls.  Was only about 1.5 hr drive from home in Mpls, so spent lots of time there.  I have a bunch of relatives in WI.  My mother and father grew up in the Colby/Abbottsford area.

Intend this coming summer to add a porch to the front (downhill) side of the cabin, with a metal roof to shade those large windows.  Summers in the area are dry and hot.  Took lots of brewski's last summer to get the cabin up.

Steve

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Here are some more pics.  Double rainbow over the valley below demonstrates why the cabin is where it is.  Another pic shows a post & attached concrete pyramid lowered into hole.  Hole is 2.5' deep, which is local code for footings to avoid frost heaving.  A third shows the post hole filled with small rock.  There are 9 posts in 3 rows.  After installation, each post was plumbed and braced.  Posts support beams for the floor, and for the rafters/roof.  Tarps over the project were used for shade from the hot sun - to reduce # of brewski's needed (hehe).  After floor joists were installed, I insulated the floor from above before installing 3/4" T & G OSB sheets.  Then became a race (won)  to get roof on before fall rains, to avoid soaking the floor insulation.

Cabin is basically a pole building.  Got the plans off a university extension web site as a free .pdf download.  Have seen same plans and many others on several other university sites.  Can provide details if anyone is interested.

Steve
sprestin@aol.com

Nice project Steve!

You have done an interesting 16x20 version of the quite similar 14x24 Little House (http://www.jshow.com/y2k/listings/29.html) foundaton where I use the same pier block footings. I like your idea of using them at the bottom of the hole as a footing for a PT post. It looks like you have done a pole building with these PT 4x4 "poles" going all the way from the buried pier block to a 4x beam or header that supports the rafters on each side. This is a better way to do a pole building as the more typical round poles are always a problem (should they be inside or outside the walls??)

Still, I wonder... what do you see as the advantage for doing pole construction over doing the same foundation but having it support a platform floor and then stud framing the walls on the deck and tilting them up in place?

Whenever I look at pole buildings I see what goes into the infill between the poles or posts and see that the most inexpensive thing to build with is stud frame walls. Then, once those are in place, we can throw the posts away as the framing is plenty strong enough to carry all the loads, is more energy efficient and is simpler to build.

So, I've come to doing pole frame foundations but using convention platfrom framed floors and walls above.

I've taken the liberty of taking Woodswalkers fine photos and done a one-page overview of how I would use this foundation alternative for a platfrom frame foundation. http://www.countryplans.com/Downloads/pier%20block%20foundation.pdf

I've also added this to the ongoing PDF library (http://www.countryplans.com/Downloads/pier%20block%20foundation.pdf) of articles.

John,

Thanks much for your comments.  And, thanks also for doing a posting on the details of how to get pics to appear.  Have now got it figured out.

Regarding your question and comments about why I chose to use a pole system extending to the tops of the walls, rather than just do a platform with conventional walls above, I offer the following description of my approach and advantages.

Plans I used resulted in a double 2" x 8" x 10' header/beam between each post, flush with the top, bearing on 2" x 4" blocks bolted thru the posts.  Then a 20' x 2" x 4" was attached atop the entire wall to tie it together.  I then framed each 10' infill section with single plates, top & bottom, and no headers over doors or windows.  Then tipped them easily up into place.  The advantages I see in this method over the platform method include:

1.  Lifting a 20' conventional 2" x 4" wall with headers by myself would have been very difficult.  Probably be impossible if 6" studs were used.  No trees nearby for attaching any sort of pulley system or winch to lift a wall.

2.  Full-height pole structures are very strong and resist wind racking very well.  Locals on the hill told me winds in the area can sometimes be very strong.  The T1-11 siding/sheathing I used extends up to the top of the 2" x 8" headers and was attached with screws, which really ties the walls together.

3.  Since the footprint is small, I decided to go wilth a "cathedral" type of ceiling, using 2" x 8" rafters (for adequate insulation), and exposed collar beams (every other rafter).  Also used 5/8" plywood for the roof and asphalt shingles.  These details, combined with a sometimes significant snow load make for a heavy roof structure bearing on the walls.  I think the system I used can handle this better than a conventional 2x4 wall.  As a sage from up the hill (about 80yrs) said to me as he looked at the framed-up rafters: "that roof will last longer than you care to use it."  I greatly value such comments from those with many years of experience.

A fairly minor drawback of my approach was that the PT poles twisted some as they dried in that intense summer sun.  Had to use a drawknife on them a little on the outside to flatten the plane for sheathing.  Will probably need to do the same on the interior before rocking.

Steve

Thanks Steve for that analysis. You make a good case for the modified pole frame system that you have done.

I might try using it in a future plan. Do you think you were able to get the roof on quicker and get the project under cover earlier? What if you had done 6x6 posts and 2x6 framing, would that have made a difference? And, finally, do you think it was more expensive and that you used more lumber than a stick framed project?

John,

I considered using 4 x 6 or 6 x 6 posts, but decided they would be too heavy for me to handle alone.  Because I was building on a bit of a slope, the downhill posts needed to be 12' long, so I just got them all at 12' and cut excess from tops.  Posts need to be attached with screws to the brackets on the pier blocks before lowering them into the holes.  Had all I could handle lifting the 4 x 4 PT posts & blocks into the holes.  I suppose one could dig wide-enough holes to allow blocks to be placed in and then attach the posts, but that's a lot of extra digging.  Since I'll be heating with wood and don't really plan on using the place in the winter, more wall thickness for additional insulation didn't seem necessary.  If 6" posts & wall studs were used, the cost would also go up some.  Don't believe I've mentioned yet that I used a transit to shoot the floor elevations on the posts and measured up from there to get the top-of-wall points before cutting the posts.

Don't think the full-height post system gets the roof on faster.  I cut and installed individual rafters after establishing and supporting the ridge beam at the proper height.  Using pre-built or purchased trusses would speed up roof installation, but I would not have been able to install them on my own.  If I had been building with one other person helping, I probably would have made several changes.

Nice job on the pdf.  Knew I took those pics for a reason!

Thanks for your interest and comments.

Steve

Seems we learn something from everyone who takes time to post their project here, Steve.  Thanks for posting yours. :)

Nice little place Steve.  This is basically how I started building my place in Missouri.  The platform just hangs on the posts and I did conventional 2x4 framing between the main posts.   You are sure right about the weight of 5x5 and 6x6 posts.  The first section of my house was built with 16 foot 5x5 posts and it took four men to lift them up and get them into the holes. I dont even want  to know how heavy a 6x6 post would be.  

As to getting under roof faster, I did do something differently then Steve, in the first section of my house.Once I had the posts in the ground and the rim joists attached, I attached a 2x8 beam all around the building at the ceiling height on the exterior of the posts. I then put up a rafter at each post reaching to the ridge beam in the middle and resting on that 2x8 beam.  Those rafters were on 6' centers. Then I laid 2x4 purlins over the rafters
and installed metal roofing.  Once the roof was on and under cover, I finished the floor framing and did the conventional 2x4 wall framing between the posts. The building was sheathed with 1/2" osb and 3/8" T1-11
siding that came up to the bottom edge of the 2x8 beam.  The 2x8 beam stood proud of the surface and created a sort of simple cornice and a nice shadow line.  Its a great method and fairly quick and the nice thing is that you can work under cover during hot or wet  weather and as Steve says the smaller infill panels are easier for one man to build and lift.
I must say that I did change to standard 2 foot spacing on the rafters as it made it much easier to install standard batt insulation, but all and all, the modified pole building method is just great for an owner builder. :)

Thanks to Steve, Mark and everyone here for sharing their good ideas. This may have to evolve into a set of house plans if only because this is too good not to capture and have available for others.

I think what we're doing is evolving a system that is a simple, strong and economical cabin for an owner-builder without a big framing crew.

Mark,

Thanks for your comments and description of your approach.  I like metal roofing (especially when it rains), and intend to use metal for roofing a porch I'll add to the cabin this summer.  I also like your 2 x 8 all-around method.  Plan I used called for doubled 2 x 8's just for the two load-bearing walls, and I wondered if perhaps that was a bit overbuilt.  I really like that you were able to get the roof on quickly for shade and rain protection while framing and sheathing the floor.  Think if I had to do it over, I'd use your method.  Height of my walls is a bit shy, and I need to cut into the doubled 2 x 8's an inch or so to get standard enty doors to fit.  Your experience negates my concern about maybe unduly weakening the support  for the roof.

Another comment I need to make is that I intentionally picked a plan using even 4' increments (16' x20').  That reduces waste, and helps keep the cost down.  Two other cost-saving things I did include:  buying all the windows at the local Habitat reuse store for about 25% of retail (they were new, unused);  buying "shop-grade" T1-11 sheets at 1/3 off normal price.

Collaboration creates innovation and efficiency.  Thanks to you all for your inputs and wisdom.

Steve

Hey Steve,
Hmm, I started a post but I somehow ended it without finishing.  Hope this doesnt get said twice..

Thanks for the feedback on the posts in the ground, 2" concreate pads and the pyramids.  I do like idea that if they go bad, you can easily replace them.  Of course, easter WA is pretty dry, and the void spaces in the rocks should keep the water off them as well, I suspect.

I didnt get to much to the western side of WI, but when I was there, I was pretty impressed with the hills, trees, and the river.  Im from the north central to north eastern side, near the U.P.  But as the crow flies, St. Croix and Abbotsford really are not that far.  As I recall, there were a couple great breweries over there....something something "red."  Probably the thing I miss the most, now being out west, is rain in the summer, complete with thunder and lightening.  Central CA is nice for beachcombers I guess.

Anyway, the place looks great! and awesome views too.  Hope you can keep cool during the porch project.

Chris

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Here are a couple pics of the privy I built in my garage and hauled to the cabin site.  Used 2 x 3's and translucent roof panels to save weight.  Still had to use hydraulics on my little tractor to load it into the truck.  Bolted it onto a square of notched PT 2 x 6's as a base.  Also built 4 heavy-duty, large sawhorses per plans in Fine Homebuilding for the cabin project.


fixed photo links; something happened with change to SWF - MD

Ahh -- nice -- a one lunger with a chrome stack.  Will that stack run out through the top -- looks like you may get exhaust fumes there. :)

Nice job, Steve

Glenn,

Not chrome, just a bit of aluminum drier vent pipe.  For sure, it runs thru the roof and has a rain cap.  Key to a "civilized" privy is to build it tight, install vents in each side of the seat area, and run an "exhaust" stack up thru roof.  Another tip is to take the cutout from the hole and attach it to a hinged plywood cover so that when the cover is closed, the cutout fits right back from whence it came to seal well.  Fumes then go where they belong - out the top.  Locals who have seen it say it's the best on the hill!

By the way Glenn, I was pretty coy when you asked about permits.  After cruising thru the site, and seeing your cool sign, I now know where you stand on the issues of permits and inspectors.  I actually started construction without a permit, and worked for 4 months before getting caught.  They sent a letter requiring me to apply and to stop all work.  Since I was in a race to get the roof on before fall rains, I went back over and continued working.  Did send in a permit application.  An inspector rolled up the drive one day, unannounced, for a look and a chat.  Since I'm a deer hunter who always has a piece handy, he was taking a chance doing that.  He was actually a decent chap.  Said the county's one inspector had been off work for weeks due to a back injury.  This guy was with the town (county seat), and just filling in.  After having a look at my progress, he just wondered if the 2 x 4 walls would meet insulation requirements.  Then he announced the way to handle the situation was to call the structure a "recreational outbuilding."  Think he was probably over his head with backlog and didn't want a new hassle.  I worked for years with land use controls in my career in MN, and know all about the legalities of permits, sewage systems, etc.  Don't take any BS from any inspectors behaving like storm troopers, and have the bucks to fight in court, if necessary.  Personally know of several other places around being built without permits, and one currently under construction.  I told the guy that worked for me, so now I'm legal.

That's quite a place you've built - nice.  Ever have any hobbits stop by?

Steve

I feel permits apply when I hire out to someone but not on my private property on work for myself.  I feel if I want a cardboard box over my head on my property that it is my right to do that.

If I was destroying my neighbors property with illegal objects flying off of my property and damaging theirs, or making an unsightly mess in a public view I would come a little  closer to agreeing with them.

Looks like a well designed outhouse.  Our original one up here was just a nice open air seat looking out over the valley below.  Stayed that way until the day I had just mooned Sassy and the delivery guy walked up with a set of plans for one of my jobs.

The sign and the information I studied regarding it recently came in handy.  Our renter had been target practicing and a psycho alcoholic lady called in and said the bullets were going by her place about 1/2 mile away on the other side of the mountain. Not true as they were shooting into a target at the ground.  

A Sheriff showed up and told them it was illegal to shoot in this county and if it happened again he would confiscate their guns.

I called in - told them of the laws they were in violation of - shooting is legal here - they showed up on private property without a warrant lying about the law which is perjury.  I didn't push the day use fee.  I also mentioned that I ate breakfast with the head Sheriff once in a while and he knew who I was.

Officer on duty said he would look into it.  Called back and said he checked their logs and checked with my renter and it never happened -- not even -- absolutely not.   Hope he didn't wear out his eraser cleaning up the logs.

Only other option would be that the Sheriff who showed up at the renters was a bar buddy of the alcoholic lady, did it off duty in uniform as a favor and didn't report it to his superiors.

Haven't seen too many hobbit's although many people call it a hobbit house.   I know of a couple of troglodytes there though.

Hey Steve,
I remembered the name of that beer from eastern Wisconsin that's so tasty:
Leinenkugel's Red.

The outhouse looks cozy.  Good reading place ;)

Chris

QuoteHey Steve,
I remembered the name of that beer from eastern Wisconsin that's so tasty:
Leinenkugel's Red.

Now being originally from MN, I have sampled the Leiney's and it is tasty, but being a NorWester now I must say I prefer the Cinder Cone Red from Deschutes Brewery in Bend, OR, in fact any beer they make it good by me, I have actually planned two vacations to go through Bend to stop at the brew pub (excellent food as well).

But I digress.  nice little cabin, pretty country up there.

One of my favorite brews is "MountainDon's Home Brew".   :)  Alas at times it has been the worst.   :'(  Since I started using stainless steel soda syrup tanks (Cornelius Kegs) consistency has improved.

I like the privy and have made note of your tip to retain the cutout for use as a plug. Thank you   :)

...also swish a whisk broom under the seat before you sit down -- chases the widows away. :)

A very good point, Glenn. From Wikipedia... "Nearly ninety percent of the black widow bites reported in the medical literature of the first 4 decades of [the twentieth] century were inflicted on the male genitalia by spiders lurking underneath the seats of outdoor toilets."  (My emphasis added).  :o

Exactly what I was talking about put in a highly educated manner.  They are just looking for lunch, and if the jangles are the first thing to drop into the web --- well---- dinner is served. :-/   Ouch. :'(

Ah yes, Leine's.  Tipped a few of those babies in my MN days.  Think the main brewery is still in Chippewa Falls, WI.  Now prefer various concoctions from the Fish Tail Ale Brewery, a small local operation in Oly.

As for spiders, I did mention it's important to build that privy tight.  Personally, I'm more concerned about rattlers.  Only widows I get uneasy about are on the internet dating site.

You guys crack me up.

After I get my taxes done sometime in the next couple of weeks, will be heading over to the cabin for first time this year to see how it survived the winter.  Incorporated sheets of stiff, foil-faced insulation into the floor system, and will use the plastic bubble, foil-faced stuff in the roof.  Figure I'll attach 1 x 2's to the top sides of the rafters, then staple foil bubbles to that, leaving 1.5" open above for venting in each cavity.  Ridge vents are already in.  Will then use 6" fiberglass batts below the bubble stuff.  Any thoughts or comments on that approach?  Already use a couple big pieces of the bubble foil, attached with bungies, on the side of the travel trailer to keep it from becoming an oven in the afternoon.

Sounds like it would work good to me. :)

I don't know if I'd want to get bit by an internet dating widow. :-/

Ya ya, some good brew in OR, and Im sure WA too.  I spent some time in Corvallis a few  years ago and had the pleasure of swilling some Grants Scottish Ale.  I micro brew I believe from the PNW somewhere.  Anyway, it was delicious.  The brewer labeled the bottle something to this effect: "dont ask me to change the recipe..because Im not going to."  Now...ya gotta love that guy :D

I have no experience with bubble insulation.  But if the bubbles are filled with oxygen, will the R-value not change as the oxygen gas in the bubbles changes volume between cold and hot seasons?  I'd be interested to see what a piece of that does in the freezer over night.  Perhaps even in an unlight oven with a pilot light going.

What an interesting tid-bit about the first four decades of the 20th century and the black widow.  Good gracious :o

Still planning the WI cabin for a fall build,
Chris

Many useful tidbits here. :-?  :)

Nice projects Woodwalker!

My neighbors had a hole dug when the excavator came and added a privy, can be seen from the road too.  No hassles that I know of.  I thought of the electric composting jobs but they are expensive and tie you into the grid.

The pics you have of the outhouse...like to know more...like when you add the door  :D

I'd make it tight enough to keep out bees too.  Looks as simple as the 4x8 blind I made or the chicken coop.  

I have a thread on the design build section...the polebarn you see there makes a nice place to build small projects.  Due to my rocks, the hole for an outhouse will probably be a per hour dig. :-/

Other projects racking my brain-small cabin on bluff where deer blind is...make deer blind a chicken coop....lol.  Build a cedar sided woodshed storage unit.  Build a greenhouse...sound familiar?

Chris & NorthernMich,

I've done some costing of insulation options and have decided not to use the reflectix bubble stuff.  Will instead use foil-faced 4' x 8' sheets of isocyanurate, probably the 3/4".  They are much cheaper, easy to cut for rafter cavities, and still have the reflective benefits.  Those benefits require a free airspace above the foil of at least 3/4" or so.  I'll have 1.5", to provide air movement up the cavity to the ridge vents.

I'll take some "installed" pics of the outhouse next trip over, in a week or two.  Built it with 2 x 3's, screws, and 3/8" plywood on walls and door to reduce weight and add strength.

Steve

Hey Steve,
Im not familiar with isocyanurate...Im truly a novice.  Only found a mediocre illustration at a website.  I have not yet decided on what sort of insulation Ill be using in N. WI.  Maybe the isocyanurate is something to consider.

I look forward to the pics.  Hope the installation went well.

Chris

(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/th_Curlewcabin07012.jpg) (https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Curlewcabin07012.jpg)
(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/th_Curlewcabin07011.jpg) (https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Curlewcabin07011.jpg)
(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/th_Curlewcabin07010.jpg) (https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Curlewcabin07010.jpg)
(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/th_Curlewcabin07008.jpg) (https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Curlewcabin07008.jpg)
(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/th_Curlewcabin07006.jpg) (https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Curlewcabin07006.jpg)
(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/th_Curlewcabin07005.jpg) (https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Curlewcabin07005.jpg)
(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/th_Curlewcabin07002.jpg) (https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Curlewcabin07002.jpg)

Here are some recent pics of the project.  Recently spent a few days installing an insulated steel entry door, a metal chimney for a wood stove (not in pics), and blocking for ceiling insulation.  Will insulate the ceiling next trip over.

First couple of pics are of the "one lunger", as-installed.  There is a pic of the view out the picture window of the lake below and mountains beyond.  A couple of the pics show interior framing.  One is of the gable end, rafters, and exposed collar beams.  The other shows the entry door, sidewall beam/header, and blocks supporting the beam that are bolted to the post.

Chris, did you say you plan to start building your place in N WI in the fall?  Winter comes early in those parts.

Steve

Greetings Again to All,

Spent a busy summer (8 trips) working on the cabin, so have not posted pics or text for months.  A summary of progress includes installation of all insulation, 1" x 3" strapping along tops and bottoms of walls & ceiling (2' OC) and around all openings, 1/2" sheetrock on the walls, and a wood stove.  In the ceiling, I installed ! x 2's to the upper sides of rafters, tight to the plywood above.  Then installed 1/2", foil-faced insulation board between rafters by nailing (roofing nails) to the bottoms of the 1 x2".  This created a 1.5" vent tube from wall to peak in each rafter bay.  Wire screening was cut and stapled in place at the lower end of each vent tube to exclude insects & varmints.  Kraft-faced fiberglass batts were then installed below the insulation board to fill the rest of the rafter bays.  The 1 x 3 strapping was then installed to provide wide, easy surfaces for securing sheetrock.

(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/AugSept07002.jpg)

The 1 x 2's are visible in the R bay, and foil board installed at L.


(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/AugSept07003.jpg)

Foil board at L, and fiberglass batt in bay at R.


(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/AugSept07004.jpg)

View of insulation batts, prior to installing 1 x 3 strapping.


(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/AugSept07007.jpg)

Sheetrock installed on walls.  Note varmint security officer on duty at L.


(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/AugSept07008.jpg)

Sheetrocked wall at other end.


Closed up the site for the winter when last there for deer hunting season (mid-Oct).  The passes (4 to cross) are getting snow now.  Plan to build a picnic table for the cabin this winter, and also work at rebuilding several old wood stoves.  Am enjoying catching up on the progress of other projects posted here.

Steve

Steve:

Nice progress and thanks for posting the photos.

I like your foam board, spaced vent and fiberglass insulation system for the roof. It should be both cooler in summer (reflecting heat into the vent space) and warmer in winter (higher R-value than you could otherwise get into the rafter depth.

It takes a bit more time but will be very cost effective I suspect.

John

John,

The cabin sits on a S-facing slope with no shade, and the temp often approaces 100F in the summer, so I wanted a system that would help keep the inside cooler.  Noticed a huge difference right away.  Will be even better once I get a porch on the front (S side), and address shading for windows on the W end.  A small, box-style, wood stove was plenty of heat during hunting season when temps at night were in 20's.  This system involves considerable extra time and some cost compared to just using trusses for a flat ceiling and dumping in cellulose.  To me, for a small, one-room cabin, it is worth it to get the vaulted ceiling.  Thanks for your comments.

Steve

Good to see your post Steve. I'd been wondering where you got yourself off to.

Looking fine.

Well I see you got a jump on me building yours! This isn't poor country or maybe you should say that before everyone else figures it out! Nice start and it won't take long to finish it. You have a long drive compaired to me. As the crow flys I am 45 miles away but my truck does not fly so it is 90 miles instead. Land prices are jumping real fast around this neck of the woods. Glad I bought my 40 acs when I did cause it has more than doubled in the last 10 years. I will be using 6X6s Treated .60% for my posts but they will be under beams and only 4 ft long. Wood is so much cheaper than concrete up in the mountains.  I also put up a 2X10 double ridge beam 18 ft long at the height of 16 ft plus and it was a chore! I think it was as heavy as my 130 lb body. I lifted one end up and tied it in place then took the other end up. Sitting it on top of the 3 inch wide support was a job since I had to go to the other end and place it before any nails went in. I was sure the other end would fall when I drove the nails in. It all worked out and I finished the barn but do not want to try that again alone. The body does not heal so good anymore. I LEARNED THAT WHEN I FELL OFF MY SHOP ROOF AND BROKE MY FOOT. I NOW WILL NEVER WORK ON A ROOF WITH OUT ROPES!!! Mark

Yo Willy,

My comment regarding Ferry County being the poorest in the state is based only on county property tax revenues.  The large amount of federal NF land in the county has much to do with that.  In no way did I mean the comment to refer to county residents.  I've owned land there for several years now, and met lots of local folks.  Have found them to be friendly and hard-working.  Several people I know have moved from over here on the west side to the Republic area because they love it.  Give me a shout if you need a hand with anything at your cabin-build.  Would enjoy meeting you and seeing that area.
Steve

Quote from: Woodswalker on January 09, 2008, 11:41:29 AM
Yo Willy,

My comment regarding Ferry County being the poorest in the state is based only on county property tax revenues.  The large amount of federal NF land in the county has much to do with that.  In no way did I mean the comment to refer to county residents.  I've owned land there for several years now, and met lots of local folks.  Have found them to be friendly and hard-working.  Several people I know have moved from over here on the west side to the Republic area because they love it.  Give me a shout if you need a hand with anything at your cabin-build.  Would enjoy meeting you and seeing that area.
Steve

Okanogan is also a poor area not in a sence like a run down city area you would not walk let alone drive thru but just not full of buisiness to employ all kinds of people at good wages. It is a small town and that is normal for a small town. I live 12 miles away from town in the outback as some would say. When I start my cabin I will shoot you a message. I will probley be up there till it is done just going home when I run out of materials and tired. Mark

(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/IMG_8979.jpg)
Driveway from road to cabin.  Can you spot the two birdhouses?  Taken last month, with 2ft of snow.  Think there is about 3ft now, and more on the way.

(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/IMG_9160.jpg)

Ed Hill, with my cabin approx in middle.  Will be lots of runoff, come April.

Steve

Cool --- no --- cold. :)

Looks just like my home but I think I have more snow pack than that built up. I am hoping that is all the snow that is on the ground at my new cabin site near you. Nice part is I have not plowed any away so it has insulated the ground causing less frost depth for digging my foundation in the spring sooner! Mark

Yup, that's one advantage of a good snowpack when you're planning to build.

I'm pushing the next big storm down toward Glen.

S

Steve, we've had non stop stormy weather for the last couple weeks -- snow -- wind --cold -- clouds -- rain.  I'm getting depressed.  Lighten up already.  I'm gonna have to cut more wood. [crz]

(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/urlewCabin08001.jpg)

Worked at hanging 5/8" sheetrock on the vaulted ceiling during the first two trips to the cabin this season.  Spent lots of extra time and effort installing 1 x 3's (with screws) perpendicular to the studs and rafters at 2' OC, prior to hanging the rock.  Makes sheetrock installation go much easier, since no problem hitting wood with the screws when the surface is 2.5" wide rather than 1.5.  Additional benefits include having horizontal attachment surfaces for later installation of wood wainscoting on lower part of the walls, and increasing the rigidity of the roof structure.  Used a lift for the ceiling that I rented locally for only $10/day (to right in pic).  Exposed collar ties complicated the process since the lift brackets would not fit between the ties when perpendicular to them.  Had to lift sheets to the bottom of the ties, pull them off the lift and support them on the tops of the ties, move the lift to the side, turn and crank it up above the ties, pull the sheets back on it, then crank them rest of the way up.

(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/urlewCabin08003.jpg)

Note small, rebuilt wood stove at left.  Post to right supports the center beam under the floor.  Intend to leave it for use as a coat rack.  Finished the ceiling on the second trip.  Just the upper gable-end walls and a couple of other small wall areas to do yet to finish the sheetrocking.  Will then get it inspected and hire locally for taping and texturing.  During first trip over, had a cow moose trot down the hillside across a ravine about 75 yds away.  My Husky dog went wild with that!

Looking good, Steve - thanks for the update.

Nice work, looks like you are getting close to finishing  :) 

A brother from WI joined me at the cabin for a week in July and helped install brackets and fly-rafters to support roof sheathing overhangs at the gables.  Brackets are primed white (bought at Habitat Restore), but will be painted brown to blend in with rest of exterior.

(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Cabinflyrafters08Dick025.jpg)

Gable end before fly-rafter install.


(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Cabinflyrafters08Dick026.jpg)

Lower brackets being installed (by me).  Used two 3/8" x 5" lag bolts per bracket into 4 x 4 posts.


(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Cabinflyrafters08Dick029.jpg)

Fly-rafters installed on lower brackets and clamped to sheathing at peak to correctly locate center bracket.


(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Cabinflyrafters08Dick031.jpg)

Installation complete on one end.


(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Cabinflyrafters08Dick030.jpg)

Installation complete at other end.  Left one of the two firs to the left of the peak was struck by lightening in Aug., no fire ignited.


(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/Cabinflyrafters08Dick011.jpg)

Work supervisor keeping watch from top of new table I built.

Smart looking Supervisor.  Looks good.

Thought you said built by one person. The dog is clearly in charge. Looks good though.  :)