What are the P/C's of T-1-11....?
I seen a cabin that utilized T-1-11....owner....advised to prime - Prime - and prime...then apply a semi gloss finish coat....I asked him if I could take pictures....said no....he's a DA....
What are your thoughts.....?
I don't advise taking the pictures.
On a more serious note ...
I'm using, for the first time, T1-11 on a cottage project. Not knowing any better, I flood-coated each sheet of T1-11, both sides ... before installing. I used the Olympic linseed oil based stuff.
It looked good/new for a few seasons and now is turning dark. Some folks like this look, but I'm about to oil prime and top coat ... just for appearance .... the stuff would probably last 100 years just like it is.... I expect one coat of oil primer to suffice.
T1-11 is a strong single thickness outside sheathing/siding combination.
Say, for the heck of it, what does a sheet of T-1-11 cost where you live? (for everyone please).
I live on the southern oregon coast and the cheapest I find it here is $39.95 a sheet!!!! :-[ :P
(for 8" centers....shop is cheaper)
I'll have to check and post back. The last I bought was before the Florida storms of 2004 .... approx $22 per sheet (8" groove spacing). I know its a lot higher now. Mid Tennessee.
At that rate, you could afford to go with real wood - board and batten, clapboard or a little more work to make your own shiplap, especially if you have a small local softwood sawmill nearby.
Chucka: In the Springfield, Massachusetts area, T-1-11 w/grooves spaced 8" at the local Home Depot costs $24.99 plus 5% tax per sheet......
I've seen some no groove T1-11 with applied battens in various patterns for interesting looks. Easy and relatively cheap.
Here's a photo of what Dan is suggesting.
• http://countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=01;action=display;num=1117835674
Here's how to install honest-to-gosh board and batten, maybe with random width boards, fixed width batten, with green wood. Nail the boards up, leaving enough of a gap that you can nail the batten to the building without nailing through the boards. "barnwood" might or might not be all the same kind of wood, by the way.
Barns last pretty well done that way, but kiln dried might prevent some bug problems, certainly the kind of cupping my neighbor's "honeymoon house" has on its siding.
http://www.wrcla.org/cedarspecs/installing/board-batten.asp
Or this kind of thing--called here "vertical channel siding. Looks like half-lap installed vertically.
http://www.jimmys-cypress.com/products/item250.htm