Hello,
I'm starting plans for a shed/workshop and thought I'd post it here for some feedback. Here's some initial background:
- Dimensions are roughly 14'x30' and 9.5' tall.
- Flat roof pitched ~8 degrees. One wall will be 8', the other 9.5' to create this slope.
- I do wood/metal work, composites, painting; so my tools vary from a 50lb welder, to a 500lb table saw.
- I live in Seattle, WA, where the frost line is 12" deep, therefore my plans are to dig >12" to bury piers.
- I plan to use piers instead of a slab because there is a 3' drop in grade across the span of 30'
Here are my initial plans for the foundation:
(https://public-const.s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/shed/Screen+Shot+2020-07-03+at+10.40.11+AM.png)
(https://public-const.s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/shed/Screen+Shot+2020-07-03+at+10.38.32+AM.png)
(https://public-const.s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/shed/Screen+Shot+2020-07-03+at+10.38.09+AM.png)
This last photo shows the plan to embed these anchors https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Str...ase/1002708370 in the 12" sonotubes, and using 2x10 PT lumber as the beams and joists throughout.
Thoughts/feedback much appreciated and very welcome. Thanks!
John
The sail area of the largest walls are 9.5'x30'x I'd use 20 lbs per square foot for wind. The connection from pier to floor is not rigid, it's a hinge. If you have metalworking skills I'd tie bar stock to the vertical rebar in the piers and poke it out of the sonotube horizontally as a brace mounting point. Then tie angle, pipe or square tube to that as a diagonal brace up to the floor girders. The braced walls above are then over a braced foundation. It sort of like putting a car on the dining room table, it'll hold it as long as nobody bumps the table. If you brace the legs with a diagonal from the foot of the legs up to the apron it'll hold it a lot more comfortably if there is a lateral force.
The piers need to be on footings large enough to distribute the weight over enough area not to sink.
Residential floor load is usually 40 psf, then the weight of your toys, roof no snow is back to that 20 psf wind, if snow is greater it controls. At typical loading the floor would work, use appropriate hangers on the joists.
I'd use helical posts...by the time you figure in your time, as well as all the parts pieces and materials, you're money ahead of sonotubes, done faster with a better product.
what akwoodchuck said.
Gary
Just make sure the helical post installer is certified or you can have some nasty surprises.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htd3FnfVYoY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htd3FnfVYoY)