I am about to put on roof sheathing and I was telling a friend of mine. He asked me if I was putting on sheathing clips?? he said they strengthen the roof. Is this true if so how are they put on were are they put on??
This is true.
They are little H clips that go on the sheathing edges between joists. I seem to remember PEG mentioning them.
They keep the edges from separating under load.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080415165933AA2Z7YP
Sheathing question: Non-roof
For wall sheathing what is best practice: A) 8' length horizontal or B) 8' length vertical?
Quote from: soomb on September 06, 2008, 06:26:15 PM
Sheathing question: Non-roof
For wall sheathing what is best practice: A) 8' length horizontal or B) 8' length vertical?
To meet IRC 2006 code, vertical. The code says "nail all edges" so if you want to avoid a blocking row and have walls that are 8' or under in height, vertical is the way to go. (if your walls are more than 8' but under 9' OSB can be had that is 9' in length.
Before that "nail all edges" line was written I would say , and still lean toward, horizontal , with the 4' seams off-set by 4' , in other words the lower row would start with a 8' piece , the next row would start with a 4' piece off-setting the 4' seam.
IMO that is a stronger wall, apparently a engineer would tell you different, or at least the code book, so today on a job that is to code to save labor, meaning $$$'s, wall sheathing is normally run vertical to avoid the row of blocking.
Very good Glenn H clips, you've been reading my stuff eh 8) , but they are sold as PSCL 's
PSCL Panel Sheathing Clips
Steel panel sheathing clips include model sizes PSCL3/8, PSCL7/16, PSCLZ15/32, PSCL1/2, PSCL5/8; PSCL19/32, PSCL3/4.
(http://www.strongtie.com/graphics/products/large/171h-2008.gif)
Link: http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/PSCL_PT.asp
Thanks PEG. I try to listen and remember at least a little of it. d* :)
Thank You all... What a great site this is!!!
Amen to that!
The next question I have is: what thickness would you use for flooring, sheathing, roofing on a home you were building for yourself?
PEG's favorite word -- depends.
Joist spacing - cost of material - salvage material availble for me at least.
If following a plan or code it may be dictated by the code, architect or engineer.
I would think (based on limited knowledge) that I would be using 16" spacing for all.
What if cost was......wait for it........ not a big issue.
And if you are looking to make it "stout" b/c you tend to over do it.
The engineer , code, and, Architects set aside
I'm a tightwad - if buying materials I would buy the minimum to do the job for my purpose. Roof 7/16 osb
Floor 3/4 TG osb. I know as I have in the past. 16" spacing could use thinner I think -- found a table.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/osbspans.jpg)
and guide
www.osbguide.com/pdfs/EL809.pdf
right click - save as
Quote from: soomb on September 07, 2008, 11:17:16 AM
The next question I have is: what thickness would you use for flooring, sheathing, roofing on a home you were building for yourself?
For a basic house , cabin or shed.
I'd use ,
Joist , studs , and rafters 16" OC. Truss roof 24" OC.
Sub floor Edge gold T&G OSB 3/4" thick.
TJI's/ BCI's Engineered "I" joist in other words , 16" OC and spanned , at least, 1/2 the max distance specified by the manf. So if they say a 9 1/4" joist can max span 12' I'd only span it 6' between beams for the main floor. 2nd floors are slightly different as "normally" 2nd floors are bedrooms / baths not main living area. At least in the plans we are "generally" talking about here on C/Plans.
Stud 16" OC
always I do not like the 24" OC spacing for a variety of reasons.
7/16" OSB or 1/2" CDX for sidewalls. This is a toss up and would depend on how good the 1/2" CDX is in your area. The lumber yard I deal with has two grades or price ranges on 1/2" CDX so it depends on the mill and or supplier in your area. The 3 ply 1/2" CDX is crap , OSB is aways cheaper. A 5 ply 1/2" CDX is what your looking for. Cost on this can be a factor, as well as availability.
5/8 CDX for roofs. The added 1/8" goes a long way in holding roofing nails and or screws IF a metal roof is in play.
I'd do a 30 year comp/ asphalt roofing product by Pabco.
There are many other variables / factors but for a basic building those spec's would be my selection. There are to many "other ways" to do it to list and in some other conditions I may substitude a few of those selections.