I have been reading a lot on this fourm for the past few weeks and am looking for a summer project 2006. So what could be better than a cabin.
I first wanted to get on of those log cabin Kits but it seems that I can do a stick build for a lot less, I am also looking for resell value and a log cabin may be a tough sell, I feel it takes a certian person to be attracted to the Log cabin feel.
Enought with all the talk.
I am looking at land in Northern PA and would be building within a community. Only a acre at the most of land. I have limited home building experiance but have built a deck and have worked on some remoldeling projects so I have something to go off of.
I see I am still just talking
Some real questions for anyone who has built this cabin What was your final cost when done, with septic and well, I know it changes form place to place just looking for a ball park price. I estimate $45k with the land that going on a $20 per sq/ft. $10k for land $6 for septic. and $9K for foundation and extras I am sure I forgot.
Is this estimate somewhat close I will do all the work, but sub all the sewer and plumbing out. Also what kind of time frame am I looking at. If I start this spring and spend every weekend working on it do you think it will be done by winter?
I know this is a lot to read I but thank you for your input. My goal is to have the cabin for a year or two and then sell it to help buy My perminate home. Still living at home and 21 so time is on my side.
Welcome to the forum, Fishstix.
To get things started, I can say that 6K is a realistic estimate on a standard septic in our area. They run about 5K and up around here.
If you haven't already, you may want to print out the 55 page framing manual in the free stuff - a good reference.
Here is some information an 20 x 34 from the old forum- please come back here to post questions or comments as we don't really support it now.
http://countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=01;action=display;num=1125341660;start=
QuoteWelcome to the forum, Fishstix.
To get things started, I can say that 6K is a realistic estimate on a standard septic in our area. They run about 5K and up around here.
If you haven't already, you may want to print out the 55 page framing manual in the free stuff - a good reference.
I have the 55 page manual and it is great it has answered many questions that I had. This is a great site you guys have here.
Glad you like the site. I just posted a link to some pricing on the old forum. See if it helps. I know there is some more there if I can find it.
Here is a quote on recent pricing by Monica Vojacek in Texas. 20x34 2 story
QuoteJust thought i'd share our figures with you. we are outside of houston texas. we too are building the 2 story, but without the basement. everything has been bought new from lowes or home depot. we have done everything ourselves . dried in $15K. or $11/sq.ft. this includes our metal roof and box gutters. also know if you have cash, the larger places will outbid eachother. we saved alot of money by doing this. our first estimate for all our lumber was$12K and we ended up around 9K with free delivery. good luck! monica vojacek
QuoteIf you haven't already, you may want to print out the 55 page framing manual in the free stuff - a good reference.
Where is this manual? I've never run across it. I'm gonna go look for it, but in the mean time if you could post a link, that would be awsome!. ;D
Never mind. I found it. Here's the link in case anyone else hasn't seen it. 8-)
http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1134666978
I found this from phalynx.
I just ran through an estimation of materials for the 20x30 1 1/2 story home we will be building and with full kitchen and complete home for about 12k on pier and beam.
I guess I will just have to get the plans and look at the bill of materials and then shop around. But this project is starting to look very do-able. I have also been thinking of having the frame and roof subed out. This way I will not have to worry about rain. I am also not sure if I should go pier post or have a crawl space. I could do Pier and post myself but a crawl space would have to be subed out.
Thanks for all the pointers.
Still haven't ordered the plans but I have decided to go with a Crawl space. Most of the homes in the area have a crawl space and that may help keep the pipes warm and higher resell value. Looking at land in Carbon County PA where it does get cold.
Could anyone tell me the average cost of a perc test, back hoe and all. I have also been thinking that the entire second floor should be floored out which would add a storage room, or second bedroom.
Just so everyone knows weather this means anything or not, my goal on this project is to build it and then sell it. This helping me be able to move into my own home shorlty.(year and a half).
Just a profile hole (2)if they allow that - you dig 2 holes about 8 feet deep if possible in the proposed drain field area -inspector checks the holes - says yes or no - Probably 300 to 500 if a backhoe is available nearby --
A full perc test involves a testing agency - bldg dept etc - costs? -both require permits.
Thanks Glenn. I just got done using the on-line estimation tool that is linked to on this site to get a ballpark est. and it looks like I can build the 1.5 for around $60k excluding the land. but land is kinda cheap where i want to build, I know I can afford the monthly payments no problem to the bank and still have cash left over for odds and ends. I really have to get out and find some land.
For the area over the living room I want to make that a Bedroom. What size joist do I need to use to support the second floor? Also do they need to be placed 16" on center like the first floor joist?
Thank you.
Quoting John from another post:
Re: 1.5 story questions
Reply #18 - Jan 4th, 2006, 5:01pm
The 1-1/2 story plan has details for a standard 16" o/c joist and plywood subfloor AND/OR a double joist (trimmed out for a poor man's beam) at 48" o/c w/ exposed 2x6 T&G decking above. The detail shows how to adjust these areas as desired and keep the floor level the same. You can do part one way and part the other. The ceiling feels considerably higher in the beam and deck areas. And the wood look can be handsome.
Near this picture in the plans section for the Classic 20 Wide 1 1/2 (http://www.countryplans.com/20w_loft.html) story John comments that the ceiling/deck of the loft is nearly 9' high above the double 2x12 beams, while the section with standard ceiling is 8' and plan details tell you how to align floor heights.
(http://www.countryplans.com/images/20-wide_loft_int1.jpg)
Well I broke down to buy the plans. I have been doing some estimates for materials from Lowes and so far I can't believe how cheap the material cost is. I have not included concrete and the kitchen or flooring but I think I will come out to around $16k for the building materials which is to finish off the interior and exterior. Septic is another $5k and the land is around $15k, and i guess the guy who digs the hole will want to get paid, looks like this project may be a go this summer.
At this point I am set on having someone build the shell and roof the place. then I will do the siding and finish the inside off.
Still not sure if I want a crawl space or full basement. the water table is not a problem just not sure if the additional cost will pay off. Since I plan on selling it After it has served as my starter home.
QuoteQuoting John from another post:
Re: 1.5 story questions
Reply #18 - Jan 4th, 2006, 5:01pm
The 1-1/2 story plan has details for a standard 16" o/c joist and plywood subfloor AND/OR a double joist (trimmed out for a poor man's beam) at 48" o/c w/ exposed 2x6 T&G decking above. The detail shows how to adjust these areas as desired and keep the floor level the same. You can do part one way and part the other. The ceiling feels considerably higher in the beam and deck areas. And the wood look can be handsome.
Thanks glenn I definitly want the open beams in the living room. I have designed the loft area. I am going to us 10 foot 2x6 on the sides of the home to gain extra head room in the loft. Then 2 bedrooms can go up there with a wall seperating the too. One willl be a office while I live there.
Maybe I'm not thinking right Fishstix, but I think the 10' 2x6 are standard height and 12' are extra tall as one of the others did in their cabin.
QuoteMaybe I'm not thinking right Fishstix, but I think the 10' 2x6 are standard height and 12' are extra tall as one of the others did in their cabin.
Your right I just looked at my material list and I did infact spec for 12 foot 2x6 studs I just have so much running thru my head right now. But things are still looking up. Thanks for all you input, my plans should be here in a week.
I have come to the conclusion that I will be building on a crawlspace foundation and the Furnace and water hearter will go on the second flood in a small utility room. But I can not find a good place for the electrical panel. Has anyone put the panel in the master bed room or the living room? I am sure i could find a picture or something that could be used to cover the panel. Where have other put their electrical panel.
Got my plans today. Now I can get a est from a builder to dry in the house. To see if this project is doable.
QuoteI have come to the conclusion that I will be building on a crawlspace foundation and the Furnace and water hearter will go on the second flood in a small utility room.
Will a furnace operate properly on a second floor and be able to deliver the heat down to the first floor? Seems to me that the cold air return will not work correctly and the downstairs will not remain at the desired temperature.
Can you show us the floor plan you have decided upon? Where are you located? Maybe a different heating source would be better suited to your needs.
EDIT: I see you are in Northern PA. Is wood heat an option?
And are you using this floorplan with a loft?
(http://www.countryplans.com/images/20x30_flrpln.gif)
Tim I will post a floor plan of the second floor later tonight. Where else could I put the blower? could the blower go in the crawl space? I would worry about moisture down there over time. I have seen homes retro fitted with ac and the blower was placed on the second floor. But that is AC. Heat may be a diffrent animal.
Wood heat is not a option, I really want a heat pump, but oil could also work for me.
In Nashville an air-source heat pump worked fine as air conditioning for me in the summertime, but it switched over to just plain resistance heat quite a bit during the winter.
It was in the attic--access through a ladder from the outside. When it died a repair company swore it had been oversized, but if the outside temperature got into the single digits F, I had to have supplementary heat, not just the electric resistance heat that is built in. Small portable kerosene heaters worked pretty well.
Ground source heat pump may be a different story.
Electric heating has been slammed for years--for water air and stoves. Some off-grid friends do have a contrary view--they believe that one way or another we can always get electricity. Not as true for propane, not true at all for the increasingly imported natural gas--Nashville ran out of that during the seventies once, something about contracts and pipeline capacity.
Some info (local for me) ://www.rhodeislandgeothermal.com/faq/
We got quoted $17,000 for install...just now learning that is for the well, heat, air conditioning, and hot water....not quite as shocking price anymore.
Here is the International Ground Source Heat Pump Association for searching for accredited installers in your area:
http://www.igshpa.okstate.edu/directory/directory.asp
This is the type of heat pump I am thinking of, it is not geo trermal, my dad has one like this and lives here in the NE and it works well for him.
http://trane.com/Residential/Products/HeatPumps/Mysteri.aspx
Hey, I just read about some heatpump in Maine that is supposed to be super efficient and still works fine up there in the cold...now where was that?
Here is what I am thinking of for the second Floor.
(http://tinypic.com/ma8494.jpg)
That layout might work. I would check with a cross section through the roof and loft. Check your heights at the toilet as this depends on the sidewall height. You will also want to figure out what to do with the waste stack if you are doing a T&G decking in the loft. Joists would be not problem. I would probably make the 1/2 bath at least 3.5' to 4' inside.
Thanks John. Where you sit on the hopper the ceiling will be 7 foot, the lowest point in the bathroom will be 6 foot, the roof is 12 rise 12 run. I am still debating what to do about the first floor ceiling but you do make a valid point.
QuoteThanks John. Where you sit on the hopper the ceiling will be 7 foot, the lowest point in the bathroom will be 6 foot, the roof is 12 rise 12 run. I am still debating what to do about the first floor ceiling but you do make a valid point.
If need be, there is no reason you couldn't add a dormer in for the bathroom.
I took a drive around my town today to check out Roofs ao small homes and the Salt Box has sparked my intrest. Here is what I am thinking of if I have the Front door on the Long side of the house.
(http://i1.tinypic.com/mm8r5y.jpg)
First Floor
(http://i1.tinypic.com/mm8sjm.jpg)
Second Floor
(http://i1.tinypic.com/mm8spw.jpg)
How do you get upstairs? :-?
LOL the staris are that Green part in the center of the house there is a 6' x 3' landing at the top. I haven't figured out how to Cut a hole in the second floor to expose them yet.