CountryPlans Forum

New Readers: This is a very well documented small scale project. Many good photos. Be patient... some of the photos will take awhile.

John Raabe -- owner's report follows.

=================================================================

We think we have hammered out  ::) the design for the Youngins' Playhouse. Here are the details so far:

[size=12]General[/size]
8' W x 12' L structure to be used as a children's playhouse.

[size=12]Zoning/Code[/size]
We have already verified this structure will not require a building permit since it is less then 120 sq ft.  The City does require adherence to a 3' side / 10' rear setback for any structure which potentially could be used for storage. Homeowners association rubber stamped their ok as well.

[size=12]Site Plan[/size]




The building site is located behind the main residential structure, out of sight from the front of the street. Water run-off will not be impeded with pier/beam foundation.

[size=12]Elevation[/size]



[size=12]Foundation[/size]
The playhouse will be cantilevered over two 4"x6" Douglas Fir beams, each beam supported by 3 piers via Simpson PBS bracket. Each pier will be 8" in diameter and 16" in length. At the bottom will two 8" #3 rebar pieces forming an X shape lying horizontally on top of a concrete brick.  This will be tied to a 1' piece of #3 rebar which will run vertically through the center of the pier.

[size=12]Framing[/size]
2x4 studs @ 16" o/c
Sheathed with ¾" plywood or fiberboard (TBD)
Corners will be done with three whole 2x4s with blocking between two of them.


[size=12]Roof[/size]
We are going to attempt a hip roof  :o. Standard asphalt roof tiles matching main house will be used as the finial roof finish

[size=12]Siding[/size]
We plan to use red cedar shingle panels for the final siding:


As usual, comments/critiques are always welcomed....

Where's the grass?  Is this a satellite photo taken before the landscaping went in?

Dormant.

Wow, nice planning.  We still don't know what siding we will use, and our walls are built. :o

I think doing a small structure first is a super smart idea (for noobies like us).  Trying to learn how to assemble rafters when your 10' off the ground and still working over your head is tough.  I've come to realization that I will become competent with a building task right about the time I'm done with that building phase.

Where are you going to get your windows?  We found a "salvage" place close to our place.  Also, most large cities have Habitat for Humanity "ReStores".

http://www.habitat.org/env/restores.aspx

Good luck!

PK

Foundation-site prep

Last weekend we marked the spots for the pier holes
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010009.jpg)

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010010.jpg)

My neighbor helped me dig the pier holes this afternoon
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010002-1.jpg)

Contemplating hiring the ants to finish moving the loose dirt

Foundation-site prep (cont.)

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010007.jpg)

Looks like you cleaned it up with a shop vac, Chris.  Are you trying to work to PEG's standards?  ;D

Maybe he convinced the ants  :o ;D

Foundation-site prep (cont.)

Today we worked on widening holes to put a 12"x4" footer in.

Cosette as "Ring Master"
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010021.jpg)

Cosette and Ceili have to make sure Dad was doing it right:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010022.jpg)
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010024.jpg)

One of the top 10 benefits of having kids - indentured servants:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010027.jpg)
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010028.jpg)
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010029.jpg)
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010030.jpg)
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010031.jpg)


Wendy does her part tamping...
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010034.jpg)

5:00 pm - calling it a day.
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010033.jpg)

Put em to work -- they will learn from the time they are old enough to get out there.  Good plan. :)

Weather's looking fine, too!

What a crew! :D
Makes concrete work look like fun.

Slight rain delay....

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/P1010017.jpg)

Foundation-Footers

We made the footers today.

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Footer2.jpg)

We cut a 13" x 13" piece of 1/4" thick cardboard and put at 15" x 15" VB on top.  We stuck a 24" piece of rebar through the middle so only 20" stuck out of the top.  We cut a 4" section of 12" dia. builders tube and stuck reinforcing rebar in it.  Centered that on the cardboard/VB and we had our footer casing.

Mixing the first batch of concrete:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Footer6.jpg)

One down (First try was a little dry):
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Footer12.jpg)

Children's toys sometimes make good tools:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Footer13.jpg)

Wendy thought I was doing it wrong so she had to take over:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Footer15.jpg)

Done for the day:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Footer17.jpg)

What's the plan now, setting the piers on sand in the pier holes, or something similar?  

Yes. We were originally thinking about 8" gravel under each footer - but I suppose sand is also possible.

The total height of the pier w/footer will be 12 inches. Due to the slope in the backyard, the two piers nearest the house will only stick out above the ground about 4" where the two piers farthest away from the house will have to be roughly 7" above the ground.

OK - I know a couple inches of sand is used under slabs, but gravel would probably be better under the piers.  Sand like tamped gravel will compact 100 percent with a bit of water, but the sand could move easier with excessive amounts of water - a drying crack in the ground or a gopher hole etc., where the gravel would likely stay in place.

Thanks for the update - I was just wondering how you were doing it. :)

NP-

Honestly, we are flying by the seat of our pants - All questions / comments / critiques are welcome.

Foundation-Footers (cont.)

After footers have dried for 24 hours:

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Footer19.jpg)

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Footer18.jpg)

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Footer20.jpg)

Keeping them wet for a few days or more will make them stronger, although not real critical in this application.  They could be wet down then covered with plastic to stay wet or a sealer applied.

Curing info for the big project. :)

http://www.kuhlman-corp.com/curing.html

Foundation-Piers

Attached 16" of 8" dia. builders tube to top of footers.  Inserted a piece of #4 rebar near the top which serves two purposes:
1. Reinforces concrete at the top near Simpson PB44 connector
2. Provide handles so we can move the pier around

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Pier2.jpg)

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Pier1.jpg)

Filled each tube with 80 lbs of Quickrete.

Introducing....The Youngin's "Uber Pier":
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Pier4.jpg)

Foundation-Piers (cont.)

24 hours of drying and all appears good:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Pier6.jpg)

How are you planning on setting those in the hole  :o :o???  Bobcat , backhoe  :-/ :-/ They will be heavy , watch your back and hands when they drop into the hole .

  Good Luck and be carefull!

Foundation-Beams

We started working on the beams this afternoon.

First thing we did was to mark the location on the beams where the joists would cross:
(//i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Beam3.jpg)
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Beam4.jpg)

Next, we placed the spacers to be where the piers connect to the beam:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Beam7.jpg)

Instead of toenailing the joists to the beams, we decided to go with Simpson connectors:

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Beam9.jpg)
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Beam10.jpg)

Foundation-Beams (cont.)

Cosette helps mom by holding the nails:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Beam11.jpg)

Joining the beams together:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Beam15.jpg)

I guess its time to do something with them holes in the ground:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Beam17.jpg)

Screws are probably OK here, but keep in mind that they break - shear  easier than nails and are not approved for some uses in the code- per a friend of mine when I used them somewhere.

whew!  those look pretty heavy - how much do you think they weigh?  Looks like a fun family project, though  :)

It is a fun project and the kids (especially Cosette) is really into it.

100 lbs of quickrete - but I thought somebody told me once that concrete gets heavier when it dries (after moving them around a few times - I can believe it!!)

Wendy and I are reconsidering a couple of things right now:
1. Rotate the structure 90 degrees so the front of it faces east instead of north.
2. Brick veneer on the front with hardi-plank on sides and back.

Stay tuned as we need to make these decisions right now before we do anything else....

OK - we decided to keep the playhouse orientated like we planned it originally but will do a brick veneer in front with hardi-plank in the back. we haven't decided which of the two for the sides.

We got the piers in the holes.  We still need to adjust them so everything is level.

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Pier10.jpg)

Once we get them adjusted - we will fill the holes in and attach the beams.

Wow, Troublemaker, (formerly known as (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d7/Prince_symbol.svg/20px-Prince_symbol.svg.png)Prince Chris).

What a relief.  I have been bothered about those piers for a longtime now.  Great progress.   :)

Foundation-Piers (cont.)

Got the piers "rocked" in

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Pier11.jpg)

Looks like that worked. :)

Great pictures, it always helps to see the different steps that need to be taken. I'm surprised that you cast them above ground then dropped them in...very bold  ;)

Wow, nice work.  Heavy duty stuff.  How did you get the piers all at the same level?  Did you have to keep taking them out of the hole? :o


PK

Quote...I'm surprised that you cast them above ground then dropped them in...very bold  ;)

Quote...Did you have to keep taking them out of the hole? :o

Thanks.

My original thought was it was going to give me more control over the spacing.  While it did, after repositioning several times - the nostalgia kind of wore off.

Afterwards, Wendy asked me "And why couldn't we have just used deck blocks?"  ::)

I have to admit that I probably made this much harder than it had to be.

Look at it as experience.

Afterwards, Wendy asked me "And why couldn't we have just used deck blocks?"    

I have to admit that I probably made this much harder than it had to be.

1.  Now she tells you...

2.  You should know by know that the SO is always right...

Looking good though!

Quote

Quote...I'm surprised that you cast them above ground then dropped them in...very bold  ;)

Quote...Did you have to keep taking them out of the hole? :o

Thanks.

My original thought was it was going to give me more control over the spacing.  While it did, after repositioning several times - the nostalgia kind of wore off.

Afterwards, Wendy asked me "And why couldn't we have just used deck blocks?"  ::)

I have to admit that I probably made this much harder than it had to be.

I thought you just wanted the practice. :)

Wendy and I are tossing around the idea to brick veneer the front of the playhouse and then hardi plank to sides and back. Before we get too far down the line with the idea - we want to understand the physics and what would be needed to make it work.

The area we are considering is 12' x 6' minus any perforated area in the wall.

To calculate the total number of bricks we would need, I measured the length and height of a single brick used as veneer on our house:
Length = 8"
Height = 2"

Now, we added 1" to length and height for mortar. That gives us a total of:
Length = 9"
Height = 3"

Since there are 144" in 12', the total "theoretical" number of bricks across would be:
144" / 9" = 16

Since there are 72" in 6', the total "theoretical" number of bricks high would be:
72" / 3" = 24

Ergo, the total number of "theoretical" bricks in a 12' by 6' wall with no perforations:
16 x 24 = 384

Given that
1. At least 84 bricks would probably be displaced by wall perforations (windows, etc)
2. Each brick weighs approximately 4 lbs.
The total additional "theoretical" dead weight that would be exerted down along the edge of the subfloor would be:
(300 x 4) + weight of mortar = 1200lbs + weight of mortar.

I don't know if it means anything to break this down to lbs per liner foot, ie:
1200 / 12 = (100 lbs + (weight or mortar/12)) per linear foot.

If we were to actually do this, it would probably be wise to provide additional support under the front edge of the sub-floor - for example 4 deck blocks spaced evenly with supports up to the RIM joist directly under the bricks.....

Your bricks should have their own footing and only tie to the wall with special clips for stability.  I believe a 1" space is required for drainage also.  The wall needs to be waterproofed somehow or it can have problems behind the bricks.  I remember seeing failure problems caused by moisture somewhere.

There are also fake bricks or some special goop you apply and pull a tape grid out of to make them look like bricks.  I don't know if it is for exterior or not but have seen it.

....more digging ....  :'(

Cheer up!   :)

Real brick. But only 1/2" thin veneer brick. No structural support from the bottom needed.

http://www.thin-brick-veneer.com/thin-brick-veneer.html?gclid=CJjg8O3jm4wCFRqfYAodpQcT2A

Thats a good idea - considering the scale of this project - it might be the most sensible thing to do.

THANKS Don!!!

8-)

Got a couple of things finished the last two days:
1. put lawn edging around pier holes to help divert water away from them
2. hack sawed the 3/4" rebar which was sticking out of the piers
3. plane/notched out beams to ensure even joist seating

Wendy has lost confidence in my ability to stay focused - so this is my punishment:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Punishment1.jpg)

However, its a rainy day today - so I guess I just have to stay inside and do that other work  :'(
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation1.jpg)

Cool, Chris.  Wendy has taken control. :)

That should snap you back into shape. :)  Rain?????   What's that? :-?

You know, I really need to do something with that fence.  Cedar...board on board...8 feet tall...

:-/

Kinda looks like the place is designed so you and your neighbors can keep an eye on each other.

I guess taking a leak off the front porch is out of the question. :-/

Today was really productive!!!

We got the beams leveled:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Pier14.jpg)

We got the built-up beams notched where the joists go across:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Foundation-Beam20.jpg)

And ** finally ** we got the frame for the sub-floor up and everything fastened in:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor2.jpg)

Wow - you are moving right along.  I'm so proud. :)

A couple of setbacks today...

Had more roof shingle damage on the main house.  >:( Also, after getting 2 inside joists in on the playhouse - discovered we were not square anymore.  :o

Had to rip the joists out  :'( and slide one end of the subfloor frame about 1.5 inches to get square.

After tacking in the end floor joist and re-checking for square- laid two pieces of OSB in to re-mark the exact position of the OSB seams. We will measure from there the 16 o/c for the other supporting floor joists.

Just as we picked the OSB up we had to pack it in - we have been getting scattered T-showers every day now for the last week.  >:(

Good news is the Natl Weather Service has dropped North Texas from drought status.  

Subfloor-Joists

Got the two seam joists in:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor4.jpg)

Checked to make sure OSB edges run in middle of joists:
*Note: The way I am laying out the OSB here is not the preferred method. OSB aways should run the other way so the T&G part spans between the floor joist, not lands on the joist.

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor5.jpg)
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor6.jpg)

Hammered in rest of the joists
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor7.jpg)
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor8.jpg)

Next steps:

1. Attach hardware cloth to underside of joists
2. Throw in insulation between the joists
3. Fasten OSB sub-flooring to joists

It's neat watching this come together. Very clear photos and enough detail to see every step. Two forward, one back. That equals onward! ;)

 Chris your running the OSB decking the wrong way  ::), it aways should run the other way so the [highlight]T&G part spans between the floor joist, not lands on the joist.[/highlight]

Reason being most buildings are larger in size , and the NON T&G (ends) of the sheets would have no support between the joist.


So [highlight]AWAYS[/highlight] run the 8' (lenght) of the  sub floor sheathing 90 deg. to the joists.  So the T&G part can do what it should do , keep the sheets from seperating , squeaking if they rub as you walk on them.  

 True it may not effect your build , but some one else may run into issues by doing thier sheathing that way. In fact a guy building over on the Oly. Penn , one of the John's IIRC ran his sheathing Arse backwards ,  ;D Not due to your photos but hopefully you get my drift, eh ;)  


 Keep at er  8-)

So what we "should" do is lay the two 8' sections so the T&G is parallel to the beams (or, as you indicated, perpendicular to the joists), along the length of the structure.  Cut the 8' section on the third panel in half so what we have in effect is two 4'x4' sections. Lay those two together in the same way the other two are, with the T&G parallel to the beams.

Point taken - thanks  :)

Yup and stager the joints so the first row would be a 8' sheet and then the 4', then the 2nd row would start with a 4' sheet then the 8' sheet , so the 4 ' seams do not line up.

Your welcome , thanks for understanding  my post was not a slam :)  

As Glenn said  some where lately it's hard for you guys to "ASK' what you don't know , Glenn is so wise  :)Opps I meant  ::) ;D

Like did you crown your joist ??

More likely a wiseacre -  :o  That'd be me. :)

Good job on keeping the the decking straight, PEG.  I wouldn't have known the difference except on a bigger floor.  I guess that's why you get the big bucks. ::)

 Ya the big bucks ,

(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/ScannedPicture6.jpg)


(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/ScannedPicture4.jpg)


(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/ScannedPicture3.jpg)



(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/ScannedPicture2.jpg)





 Ya I been known ta take the big bucks now in again. ;D

My point was folks will look at youngins photos and that will be there "right way" to lay sheathing . So I thought it was necessary to point out thats it's not the right way , just  "a'" way , in this case not really wrong , except it will / would be harder to engage the T&G if there where any twist , bow , buggered T&G joints .

Sorry fer the drift but it sort of fit  :-[ ;D


Now I use a camera ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Brownsteinskitchen9.jpg)


(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Brownsteinskitchen7.jpg)

But I still can get close to um ;)
 

Good point - well taken --  even good to learn on a little house as that is why he's building it, eh?  :)

Who's the young dude with the deer? ;D

 He was young Eh ;) Pretty fair hunter as well :) Wish I knew him ;D

I edited my post w/the pictures to include your comments about how OSB should be laid.

QuoteLike did you crown your joist ??

I assume the crowning should be concentrated toward the center of each joist?

Wendy just might threaten bodily harm to me for bringing up the crowning - her patience with me a far as trying to get everything perfect is wearing thin.  She keeps reminding me that we would be so much further along if I would just stay focused. . . .  .     .

Which reminds me, I've got to do something with that fence.......

 Crown : The highest point .

             The bow up part of most lumber.

From the website : http://www.bestdecksite.com/introPlanPg1.htm

 Tip: Most boards have a slight "crown" to them. To check for crowning, hold one end of the board about a foot from your nose with the other end resting on the ground. With the wide side up, sight down an edge of the board. If there is any crown, your eye will easily see the edge as being slightly curved. When you install your joists, place all the joists with the crown up. In so doing, you'll get a more consistent floor surface. Later on, when you install the decking and furniture, the extra weight will work to flatten out the crowns resulting in not only a consistent but also flat floor surface.

  (http://www.bestdecksite.com/images_intro/plan/crown_up_sm.jpg)



 

So you eye ball down each joist and place the "crown up" , do the same thing with your stubs when you lay them on the floor when you assemble / build your walls .

This deck site looks pretty good for beginners / newbies  ;)

G/L PEG

Oh, I was thinking that you were alluding to get out the power planer and forcing the crowning.

The lumber I got was rough cut - come to think of it two of the pieces were warped. I could not distinguish any natural crowning toward the center.

Next time I make a lumber order for the wall studs - I wonder if I can specifically request no rough hewn.


Good site reference - thanks!

Hey Chris, even with the pressure from Wendy, if you stay focused, try to keep moving.  We don't want you to burn a hole in something.  Lots of ant fires start that way. :-?

Quote


Next time I make a lumber order for the wall studs - I wonder if I can specifically request no rough hewn.

You shouldn't have to , did your lumber come from Home despot??

To be honest if I got sent a load that looked like your I send it back >:(

But I don't live where you live and all your material could be that bad , wood doesn't like hot,  dry , sunny weather. So it may be
 "what it is"/ "the way it is "  in your loacl area .

For what your building " It will be fine last a long time! 8-)" kinda thing.

Poor material is harder to work with , just like cheap tools they lack power , balance , etc . Working with good lumber is a joy , but good lumber is getting harder and harder to find .  

  For instance old doors 20 or more  years old where made of very nice wood , letting in the hardware hinges , strike plates etc , was fun , today most doors are made of $hitty wood or no wood , some have plastic rails (the edges of the door ) or pine that is twisty nasty wood , they finger joint together short pieces to reduce warping , etc , will those lil pieces are not nice straight garined wood so when letting in your working with "Narly twisted fickle "  wood grain , makes it harder . Now if you never have worked with nice true / straight garined wood , you think , $hit this is hard , I'm a hack , I'll never get it right , or close enought is good enought!

Ah the lementing of a old woodworker / carpenter/ cabinet maker :'( :'(. I could go on but I gotta get to work , :) side job today , maybe some photos tonight if in she goes good  ::)  8-)


Keep at er Chris , she'll come ta gether for ya  ;)

Maybe even a award :o :o from Wendy when it does , eh ;)

I have to work with old wood quite often. :-/

Quote

I have to work with old wood quite often. :-/

Such is life , eh Glenn ;D Betta  ole  woodie,   than no woodie  :o ;)

Yes -- I find these old bridge  timbers quite useful and best of all they were free. :)

Quote

,Yes -- I find these old bridge  timbers quite useful and best of all they were free. :)

They can be , I installed a full morticed lockset on a cabin over in the Anacortes area , Eye of the Island / Mt. Erie area .

It was a ole english made lockset not instructions , flea market buy IIRC. Anyway the door was asolid 2" thick reclaimed Red wood  tunnel  timbers , milled about 1880 or so , (still had steam or soot marking on/ in )it from steam trains going thru the tunnel . Now that my good people was some great wood  8-) straight , true as a Whidbey Island  summer day ( they are long 16 hours of day light, notice I didn't say sun  ;D) But that stock / door milled like a  woodworkers dream.

The other side of the storey where the trees / wood they used for the door jamb was so site grown pecker pole Fir, tight grained hard as the nobs stuff.   They had machined a deep , like 4 " rabbit, :o that made the door jamb , so when the door closed the  handle hit the jamb side so I had to let it out , with all hand tools as it was no top of the Mtn. and all the power tools where back in town , we rode up to the place in a ATV  , about a mile.

Anyway it was a work of art when it was done  8-) REALLY !!

So later dudes off to the job site  8-)  

(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd19.jpg)


 

Subfloor

Got the hardware mesh installed to keep critters out:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor9.jpg)
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor11.jpg)

Put strips or tarpaper down between joists-trying to keep critters from chewing on insulation:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor12.jpg)

Laid insulation and started putting down sub-floor OSB:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor14.jpg)

Next step is to get OSB straight and fasten.

QuoteSubfloor

Laid insulation and started putting down sub-floor OSB:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor14.jpg)

Next step is to get OSB straight and fasten.

I'm not sure it matters since you're not going to air-condition the space (although you might - that's the nicest playhouse I've seen;) ). Do the craft facing and tarpaper make a vapor barrior on both sides of the wall? I think if moisture gets in there it wouldn't get out. Anyone know?

Subfloor

Kids inspect the work and make floor plan decisions:
(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor18.jpg)

Red is hoping he can move in soon - As you can see Cosette keeps a tight rein on him

We actually are planning to air condition the space with a window unit (https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/icons/EmoticonHappy.gif)

We have considered trapped moisture under the insulation, but we think that since the felt is just kind of laid in there, that it should be able to breath - at least a little.

QuoteWe have considered trapped moisture under the insulation, but we think that since the felt is just kind of laid in there, that it should be able to breath - at least a little.

Looks nice!  

Could be wrong, but I don't think the felt will behave as a vapor barrier anyhow.  

PK

Subfloor

Used #8 2" screws to fasten in the sub floor and then sealed OSB joints:

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor21.jpg)

Youngins' tool de jour - a $5 pair of knee pads and a good pair of gloves:

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/subfloor/Subfloor22.jpg)

Next step - wall framing !!!

Quote

#1:  then sealed OSB joints:



#2: Next step - wall framing !!!

#1: What did you use ? Looks like tar ;D

#2: This should be entertaining  ;D ;D

Sorry!!  :-[ :-[ ;D ;D But still I hope you see my point Hehhehehhehehhheheee ................. ;D

Your braver than most , I will add !! ;D

G/L PEG ;D

1. Roof sealer - all what I had on hand.  ::)

2. Yeah - think I should have my own local cable acesss show - call it "Building with Chris" (https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/icons/EmoticonHysterical.gif)

Quote1. Roof sealer - all what I had on hand.  ::)

2. Yeah - think I should have my own local cable acesss show - call it "Building with Chris" (https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/icons/EmoticonHysterical.gif)

#1:  Well the kids will track that tar around every time it's warm , humm Texas, should be fine if you have black carpet in the house and lots of paint thinner. ::)

#2: Ya it'd make a great  sitcom.  ;D

It's called "Tanglefoot", PEG.  In case illegal aliens try to sneak across through your playhouse at night, their bare feet become stuck in it, and they must remain there until Chris can call the proper authorities.  

Note: Chris -- be prepared for an extended wait --- the tax dollars you spend are often misappropriated and service will not be what you think it should.  I suggest you become proficient in the cooking of refried beans as if you allow them to starve to death while stuck there, I am pretty sure the free legal aid will kick in for them and you will be subject to lawsuit.

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/icons/EmoticonHysterical.gif)

Wall Framing

Waiting for a decent break in weather to get started....

(https://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r288/quitesweet/Building/Playhouse/Walls/Walls01.jpg)

I think you are stalling, Chris.  Everyone knows we get 8 months of summer with no rain.  OK - so that is how it is here.  What do you want all that rain for anyway? :-?

Hey Chris -- Good idea on the tar in the cracks  :)--- maybe your insulation will stay dry.  Catch any aliens? :-?

Wall Framing - North Wall

Well, after a months hiatus, got back to the playhouse.

We bought a 36x36 double paned window. Since a custom door was going to run $280, I got a 30x80 wood door slab from HD for $39. The jamb kit cost $34 dollars. My step dad agreed to rip it down to 24x60. He eill then set it in the jamb for us - so for about $80 we will have a kid-sized door.

Made the following cuts:
top and bottom plates to 144"
10 wall studs to 71 1/2"
4 Trimmer studs to 62"
4 cripple studs to 24"
1 sill to 36 1/2"

Made two double 2x6 headers:
39 1/2" for the window
26 1/2" for the door

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/NorthWall1.jpg)

The trick which has helped make sure even I to make straight cuts with the circular saw is to use the speed square to keep it straight/steady:

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/NorthWall3.jpg)

Ahhhh - I feel so much better now -- he's getting after it. :)  Good Job, Chris.

I like your signature line Chris.  Reminds me of a quote which hangs upon our wall,

"To laugh often, to win the affection of children, to earn the appreciation of honest critics and endure the betrayal of false friends, to appreciate beauty, to find the best in others, to leave the world a bit better, whether by a healthy child, a garden patch...to know even one life has breathed easier because you have lived.  This is to have succeeded!"-Ralph Waldo Emerson.

My wifes aunt sent a plaque with this on it to me, and said that this is what she thinks of me.  Just about made cry when I read the quote.

Out of all the things we do in our lives, parenting is the most important, and there is no room for failure.  Good job for your girls there Youngin.

Thanks - I saw that quote online and thought of how true it is.

They had fun yesterday watching me - and I always have a blast watching them:

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/NorthWall4.jpg)

Wall Framing-North Wall

Got everything put together - only problem is when I went to measure the diagnoals, one was 1 inch shorter than the other  :'( :

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/NorthWall5.jpg)

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/NorthWall6.jpg)

Chris, when you stand the wall up you should find that a slight "crank" is all that's needed to make it all work out and have the ends of the wall plumb. Assuming the floor is level, the lumber all correct lengths, etc. Looking good!

What Don said, and if it bothers you in the meantime just bang it around with a big hammer.

It'll still move back and forth pretty easily then when up put the big level on it and knock it or push it plumb then nail on temporary braces to hold it in place.

 Or you could snap a line 3 1/2" in from your box sill , then line up your wall plate on that line and flush with each end .  and tack the wall down (toenail ) thru 2x4 plate into sub floor , next rack the wall to line up with your box sill,  the sides, if your platform is square and all your studs are the same lenght your wall should be sqr. , check it diagonally again , if it's still not sqr. make it so that it is .  Then tack one toe nail thru the end grain of the top plate , do not sink these two nails you''ll be removing them as soon as your wall is sheeted.

Next apply your sheathing / OSB / plywood / T1-11 what ever your using , once sheathed tip up the wall it will pivot on those toe nails ( not slide off the platform )  , again your plwood should be sqr so if you line it up flush with the sub - top plate and down the side of the outer stud  that will  confirm the wall is sqr.

Once you tip up the now plumb , if it's sqr. it's plumb , unless your floor platform is really out of level, a square  wall  on a level floor will = a plumb wall. Brace accordingly with at least a 1x4 on each corner. on  a larger wall/ building use a 2x4 for the temp brace.

The cut out your door hole , the window hole you could cut out after nailing but before tipping up the wall.

MTL this is all TMI  ::)


I'd guess 75 or80% of all walls I stand are sheeted.

 
G/L PEG    

(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/apr107.jpg)

Quote(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/NorthWall5.jpg)

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/NorthWall6.jpg)

Doesn't appear that you have corner backing in either of the two corners fr nailing off the opposing walls and or interior finish such as dry wall or paneling. Whats your plan there stud?  ;D

Alos looks like on photo two right hand end you've either kicked a stud out , or put it on the far side of layout :-/

I plan to insert the blocking for the 3 stud corner - waiting till I acquire a bit more scrap pieces of 2x4 first (I am trying to do this utilizing as much of the materials as possible).

As far as the gap - you may be right.  Might just be one of those (https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Emoticons/duhhh.gif)  moments.

The gap at the end is 17" - which I am not going to sweat right now.

Wendy helped me raise the wall this morning:

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/NorthWall8.jpg)

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/NorthWall7.jpg)

Cool Chris -- looks just like a mini-version of PEG's.  Soon you will start to look and talk like him- he's been teaching you so much.  You are probably his number 1 student.

Wall Framing-West Wall

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/WestWall1.jpg)

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/WestWall2.jpg)

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/WestWall3.jpg)

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/WestWall4.jpg)

The playhouse is looking wonderful...looks like the weather is cooperating also.  Great job!

Thanks - I tried to work on it yesterday but now it is just getting too hot to work in the afternoons.  The heat really got to me and I had to quit about an hour after I got started.

I will have to switch my strategy and do what I can in the morning.

Wall Framing

My step dad came over to check my work so far.  I think for a newbie/nobody/rookie like myself - having somebody double check work is a smart idea.  

We corrected the following issues:

1. The north wall was lined up incorrectly (it was lined up with the OSB).  Since we knew the subfloor frame was square when we started, we realigned the bottom of that wall with the sub floor frame.

2. On the north wall, I omitted a stud at the first 4 ft mark (I was thinking about saving material since the king stud for the door just ended right before it.) We simply nailed in the extra stud.

3. We adjusted the headers so they were flush with the side of the wall (probably just a personal pet peeve of his)

4. A couple of studs on the west wall were nailed in crooked.

5. I had already put the south wall together - he assisted in putting the header in for the large window.

6. He help me put together the east wall.

7. Straighten out walls

I find it difficult to take pictures as I am framing - but I tend to get uber focused on tasks - just taking enough time outs to get a break from the sun.

North wall:
(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Completed1.jpg)

North/West walls
(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Completed2.jpg)

South wall:
(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Completed3.jpg)

South/East walls:
(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Completed4.jpg)

East wall:
(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Completed5.jpg)


Left to do:

1. Insert cripple studs above rough opening on south wall
2. Finish rough opening for air conditioner on east wall
3. Attach cap plate stock
4. Sheath walls with Fiber Brace
5. Make more money to start roof

You got er movin' now.  Get the wall sheathing nailed on before the studs twist in all directions if you can.

You could temporarily nail a 2x4 horizontally to set the sheathing on for support until it is nailed on.

QuoteYou got er movin' now.  Get the wall sheathing nailed on before the studs twist in all directions if you can.

You could temporarily nail a 2x4 horizontally to set the sheathing on for support until it is nailed on.

And some interior diagonal bracing to hold it plumb , maybe some top plates , and AIR CONDITIONING  in a play house  :o :o Yous Texan's must be burnin money to cool off  ;D

Anyway the Rangers sure cooled off the Mariners bats , 5 STRAIGHT loses , 3 to lowly Texas Rangers  ::) >:( ::)


Eh good job youngins  ;)

Quote

QuoteYou got er movin' now.  Get the wall sheathing nailed on before the studs twist in all directions if you can.

You could temporarily nail a 2x4 horizontally to set the sheathing on for support until it is nailed on.

And some interior diagonal bracing to hold it plumb , maybe some top plates , and AIR CONDITIONING  in a play house  :o :o Yous Texan's must be burnin money to cool off  ;D

Anyway the Rangers sure cooled off the Mariners bats , 5 STRAIGHT loses , 3 to lowly Texas Rangers  ::) >:( ::)


Eh good job youngins  ;)

I don't know anything about football, PEG. ;D

Quote

Yes , sorta sad eh  ;D ;D

Can't leave you alone with my quotes for a minute, PEG. :-? ;D

Quote
Yous Texan's must be burnin money to cool off  ;D

Actually, we are right now only expending about 200 kilowatt hours ($34) a month for electric.  The Solar Shades are one of the best investments we have ever made. Initially cost us $350 to cover 6 windows and the sliding glass door screen.

We keep the AC at a comfortable 73. Ceiling fan in living room is always running.

QuoteI don't know anything about football, PEG. ;D

You sure got THAT right, Glenn.   ::)

Hey Chris, looking great!  When's the first sleep-over?

Thanks-I would love to get it done by Ceili's birthday, which in October.

Wall Framing

Rough opening for air conditioner in east wall has been completed as well as cap plates on end walls.

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Wall-Caps1.jpg)

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Wall-Caps2.jpg)

Next steps:
1. Finish cap plates
2. Sheath walls
3. Start roof

While waiting for Wendy to give me more money to purchase materials, I went through and updated the design in the cad:

North-east corner view

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Playhouse-Northeast0729.jpg)

South-west corner view:

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Playhouse-Southwest0729.jpg)

Wall Framing / Sheathing

Productive weekend:

Saturday I got cap plates installed on the South...:

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Wall-Caps4.jpg)

and North walls:
(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Wall-Caps5.jpg)

Also sheathed West wall:

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Wall-Sheath1.jpg)

Glenn suggested placing a 2x4 level along the sub-floor frame to hold sheathing up which worked out really good:

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Wall-Sheath2.jpg)

Today, spent a lot of time in the sun:
(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Wall-Sheath4.jpg)

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Wall-Sheath5.jpg)

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Wall-Sheath6.jpg)

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Wall-Sheath7.jpg)

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Wall-Sheath8.jpg)

Youngin's tool of the day:

(https://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/y0ungins/Building/Playhouse/Wall%20Framing/Wall-Sheath3.jpg)

There -- that makes it feel different. :)

We use angle iron supports similar to the 2x4 when siding steel buildings if they don't have a similar closure angle at the bottom.  Anything to help keep things in place until firmly fastened.

Ah, mucho progress.   Looking good.  I thought you had to run wood sheathing at the corners (or inletted cross braces) to use that black sheathing.  Is the stuff you are using different?  Or maybe if the structure is small enough it doesn't matter.

PK

THANKS

Fiber Brace - I thought I would give it a try. Here is the install doc:

http://www.temple.com/fbbuild/fbinstal.html

"To be in compliance as a bracing panel, a full sheet must begin within 12.5' of the corner as per IRC 602.10 or it must begin within 8' of the corner as per IBC 2308.9.3"

As you said - this structure is small enough that the city is not requiring a permit/inspection for. However, this was much easier stuff to work with than wood. I did not have much luck with a utility knife for trimming - but the tiger saw made short work of it.

Only downside is the filler inside gets everywhere. I may duct tape/ flash the cut edges to prevent them from perpetually spewing fiber material all over.

Looking like a real building Chris!   :)

UPDATE REQUIRED

The sad news is that we are not likely to see any further progress on this project. Over a year ago one day I noticed Chris was online and I sent him a Hello as he had been absent a while. He told me he was having some family difficulties at the time. He's not been online since.




All the best Chris.

Bummer deal. :(

Thanks for the update even though it's not very good news. I had asked Glenn some time back if he had any intel on this one.

Hope things work out OK in the long run.

And he came so far along too.  He was a fun guy.  Not a fungi. :)