I'm building the 14x24. It will be an addition/workshop to my house. 12' (of the 24" long wall) will be against the house walk-out basement. I'm going to use a flat/slope roof. I plan on building one wall 10' high and the other 8' to have about 2' in 14' slope. I'm concerned with roof venting at where it will meet the house. I will be flashed and roofed sealed to the house. How is that roof going to vent?
John could you try to post another picture of how the roof will meet the house. I have been having a problem visualizing exactly what you are doing. Although your other pictures show the basic footprint it doesn't show the house and how it is going to intersect with it. All along I thought you were going to shed roof the new addition off of your existing structure. From the discription it sounds like a shed roof but the " attaching to the basement" threw me off. This may still be your intent then allowing the additional 12' to stand alone away from the house. Is the roof on the addition going to cut into the existing roof of your house. If that is the case then the new addition will vent up through your old roof parts. Will a ridge vent against the wall suffice.
Waiting for the fog to clear here. Started staining the T&G for the ceiling outside. Got 16-(10'-12') done yesterday. Only 147 more to go. Arrrg! Did the plant fire make you tuck your head the other day. I always think of Bopaul when I am in the valley.
I'll get some photos ( or my wife to do that computer work). The rear of the house (because on hillside) has a walk-out basement. You step out of the basement door- right onto the subfloor of the addition.
It is a two-story house. The roof of the addition will be just below the bathroom first floor window. So looking at the house- you have a concrete block basement, then the two story frame house on top of it. The roof line of the addition is about two feet higher than where the basement block meets the first floor joists. I'll get the photos.
I didn't even hear the explosion.
Sounds like a shed roof to me.
They make a flashng that made for that, it has a bend so a core vent can be put under it so the bottom is vented normally vie bird blocks/ vent blocks or any other of 10 or 15 ways depending on the soffit style.
At the connection of the shed roof to wall the sheathing is held short by 1 1/2" , the core vent strips installed then the metal flashing next , building wrap / felt over that , then the siding.
It is a shed roof. I'll try to look and find the core vent. That makes sense to me. Thanks!
Peg would that sort of be like 1/2 of a ridge vent design except that instead of a 45 deg down turn it would have a 90 degree up turn to go against the wall. Is this the product you were referring to.
http://www.roof-2-wall.com/
John I think this is what Peg was talking about.
http://www.roof-2-wall.com/
It calls for a min, 3/12 roof pitch but I assume it would still be better than nothing.
Bad internet problems. I don't think I can get the roof pitch to a 3/12. Close but not quite. Has anyone considered or made some type of box that would sit on the roof like 3" high, 12" wide and running the lenght of the addition, so that it would vent, but rainwater would not go back up?
Also- As a beginner. I've got on order three anderson windows. I thought I understood the salesman, but....
some are wider (or more narrow) to accomodate drywall??????????????? I have 2x4 wall framing. I don't know what I ordered. ( (I would put the smiling face with the hammer here, but I don't know how).
I am sheathing with 1/2x OSB. Do I put the sheathing to the window framing-- Is the width of the window on the 2x4 frame considering the sheathing? or do I back off to allow the window to fit???? Help?
I missed the low pitch part , yes you'll have to create a vent-able space / boxed out area or depending on the roofing your using some vent stacks could be used to vent the bays up near the top.
Will you be attempting to do your own roof? If not your roofer will have a few options to vent it.
With the roof stacks you many have to cut some V notches on the rafter tops , or bore some vent holes so the air can travel bay to bay. And make it's way to the vents.
On your window issue you need to tell us what type of siding your using. And IF the window sits on the siding or on the sheathing.
So you need to know what style window your ordering, other than Anderson , can you link a photo ofone from thier site?
Not all Andersons are the same.
Thanks.
I'm trying to do the whole thing.
I didn't thing about some v-notches or holes to vent sideways. I guess the air would go out? or would it condensate near the top.
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the windows are Anderson 200 series tilt=wash . Says frame depth 3 1/4". (the window also says includes 4 9/16' extension jamb factory applied??????????????????????????????????????
I don't know what I have here!
Peg could he not use Cobra vent with a a pitch diverter say 8-10" wide attached to the wall and the metal roofing? Cut the sheeting back or hold it back from his house 2"
The framing is 2x4. The sheathing is 1/2" OSB. The siding will be cedar Bevel. I thing the window would sit on the OSB, not on the cedar siding. My question is does the window sit on the OSB over the 2x4 framing, or does it sit directly on the 2x4's.
Peg I had to vent the valley rafters in mine by auger a 3/4" hole from the adjoing bays to the valley bays. There was a lot of area that would not have got vented if I hadn't.
I'll check it all out tomorrow. Can't reply anymore tonight.
Just want to say that I appreciate all the help. This is a good site with good people. I'm glad I found it and the plans I bought are worth it, but the responses are more worth more than there words in gold.
As a beginner, I know I have a lot of questions. Building an addition is a little different aspect than luthier work.
Awaiting all your needed help.
I'm not familiar with those windows.
The windows I am familiar with have nailing fins. The windows are installed from the outside onto the structural sheathing. The method I used had the building wrap installed before the windows or doors. Then the windows and doors are flashed. Finally the cosmetic siding is applied.
Quote from: dogneck on September 03, 2008, 08:34:17 PM
#1: I'm trying to do the whole thing.
#2: I didn't thing about some v-notches or holes to vent sideways. I guess the air would go out? or would it condensate near the top.
#3: the windows are Anderson 200 series tilt=wash . Says frame depth 3 1/4". (the window also says includes 4 9/16' extension jamb factory applied??????????????????????????????????????
I don't know what I have here!
#1: Metal roof? Seems your asking about those on another thread.
The roof jacks I'm thinking of a real roofer would have to install. I don't have a picture and discribing it via words would be more than I could do.
#2: The holes or notches would lead to the vented bays , not to the side of the building. You'd need a few maybe four vents , the holes would 'attach' the trapped bays to the vented ones.
And yes it might , the best way is get more slope and vent like we first discribed. Or use the peel and stick / ice and water shield under the metal and to a Icenye (sp)( industrial spray foam, not the cans you get at Home depot) insulation that requires no venting at all.
#3: (http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/Satellite?blobcol=urldata&blobkey=id&blobtable=MungoBlobs&blobwhere=1179960608174&ssbinary=true)
This one? You'd want a 4 9/16" Jamb for a 2x4 wall , the window flange would be nailed on top of the sheathing. 1/2" or 7/16" OSB + 3 1/2" + 1/2" dry wall = 4 1/2" ish we add 1/16" for bulk add up of the three items.
That jamb extention would net you out at 4 9/16" the way I'd see it.
Quote from: dogneck on September 03, 2008, 08:55:42 PM
As a beginner, I know I have a lot of questions. Building an addition is a little different aspect than luthier work.
I could of used your advise maybe when I repaired this Cello,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/chellorepair2.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/chellorepair3.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Chellorepairglueup.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Chellorepairglueup1.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Chellorepairglueup2.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Chellorepairglueup3.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Chellorepairglueup4.jpg)
It's rented out now the kid I fixed it for moved up to a full sized one. Thats a 3/4 sized IRRC.
Humm I'd have thought the cello repair would have brought a few comments ???
Knock, knock, anyone here? ???
Cello repairing took me completely by surprise. But what the heck, it is wood.
You are very talented.
Bet the kid was happy.
PEG,
How long ago did you make that repair? It's held up well? The amount of stress on that point of the instrument once it is strung is massive.
I used to work on guitars a lot when I was a kid. Mostly solid body electrics, but I did learn a bit about building and repairing acoustic instruments as well. It was really how I got into woodworking in the first place.
With respect, that repair looks kinda iffy to me. If it worked, then there you go. Nothing succeeds like success. The 2 things that I recall about a repair with a dowel like that are first that you have to watch out before using the typical 'hardwood' dowels from the hardware store, because they are usually birch or something rather that the good hard maple you'd expect. Too soft for a lasting repair. Second, the problem you might eventually run into is that the wood of the cello wants to contract a bit during dry weather in the winter but the dowel wood does so at a different rate, causing the neck to crack all over again.
Of course, if it's just a cheap school cell then it's really no big deal. If the kid gets a couple more years out of it before moving on to a better instrument then that's fine.
Quote from: PEG688 on September 04, 2008, 09:19:40 AM
Humm I'd have thought the cello repair would have brought a few comments ???
Knock, knock, anyone here? ???
Quote from: PEG688 on September 04, 2008, 09:19:40 AM
Humm I'd have thought the cello repair would have brought a few comments ???
Knock, knock, anyone here? ???
You are out of my league, PEG -- no chainsaws involved. :) I did buy a book on building stringed instruments once though.
Quote from: Jackson Landers on September 04, 2008, 10:55:31 AM
PEG,
#1: How long ago did you make that repair?
#2: It's held up well?
#3: The amount of stress on that point of the instrument once it is strung is massive.
#4: With respect, that repair looks kinda iffy to me. If it worked, then there you go. Nothing succeeds like success.
#5: The 2 things that I recall about a repair with a dowel like that are first that you have to watch out before using the typical 'hardwood' dowels from the hardware store, because they are usually birch or something rather that the good hard maple you'd expect. Too soft for a lasting repair. Second, the problem you might eventually run into is that the wood of the cello wants to contract a bit during dry weather in the winter but the dowel wood does so at a different rate, causing the neck to crack all over again.
#6: Of course, if it's just a cheap school cell then it's really no big deal. If the kid gets a couple more years out of it before moving on to a better instrument then that's fine.
Quote from: PEG688 on September 04, 2008, 09:19:40 AM
#1: 3 or 4 years ago. The kids Dad one of my laborers knocked the cello over with a sleeping bag , thats how it got broken.
#2: As far as I know, they have it out on rental now.
#3: Yes the sound post helps some but yes the strings would really add stress at that point.
There was a dowel there but it had a hole in it, in the center. I'm sure my dowel was Birch. I used the wax to insure the glue I used didn't stick to the body. IF it breaks again due to stress , or a putz-ie Dad ::) it should break in that same area.
#4: Yes it works. So much for the naysayers, the options where limited to I fix it for free , Scott the putz Dad hacks it together with rubber bands , or it stays broken.
#5: Yup that is a possibility. And I covered the dowel already.
#6: Exactly , cheap being a relative term about $1,200.00 IIRC , maybe it was $800.00. But for a instrument relatively cheap.
BTW Mr. Neck after you set your window this Grace / Vycor product should be applied in the fashion shown with one exception the lower piece goes on first before the window is set , then the sides over lapping the lower piece , then the hed piece tucked under the felt or building wrap as shown in the photo.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Aug17th.jpg)
Quote from: PEG688 on September 04, 2008, 09:19:40 AM
Humm I'd have thought the cello repair would have brought a few comments ???
Knock, knock, anyone here? ???
I have Vivaldi playing on the iPod in your honor
Sorry Peg,
My home web went out again for five days. I was off three days last week to do the framing. Cello looks like it should hold up.
Peg- Some people say to drill all the way through and put a machine screw completely thru it. Yours should hold up- unless someone steps on it again.
Under my topic on roof venting- in "plans support". John Raabe drew a sketch showing the roof venting by having the roofer make a flashing and vent. I understand that. Thanks. The thing that threw me off was that on the sketch he also wrote "side venting". As a beginner, now I'm lost - where is the side venting. In John's sketch the air goes from the lower wall soffit through the cavity above the insulation in the roof joists and out the upper end through the flashing/vent. What I was planning on doing, because of rain, I worked all summer and will be lucky to get the roof on. I am going to use 2x10 on 16" centers with 1/2 osb roof sheating, then I will cover it with a roll roof, just for the winter. Next year, I'll put a metal roof on top of that. It's been a rough weekend. I had finished a wall section and lifted it to a sawhorse. When I stopped to "rest" the wind blew it and the whole thing slid into the ground. I had to just a come-along to jack it back to the platform. I was lucky, the 10" OSB overhang at the bottom did not even break-off.
Bummer.
I guess you missed my pivot nail tip eh. Toe nail the wall plate to the snapped line then tip up the wall . the pivot nails prevent the wall from slipping.
I'll look at you vent question tonight after work.
You said your a luther? I liked to hear more about that, what you work on mainly , where , big city I'd think. How that all works , do you build new , or mostly repair that sort of stuff.
Glad you didn't get hurt.
Quote from: dogneck on September 15, 2008, 07:09:41 AM
The thing that threw me off was that on the sketch he also wrote "side venting". As a beginner, now I'm lost - where is the side venting.
I looked at John's post in plans support it says "Side wall venting" which is a "construction name" as he's showing the vent in the side of the wall or commonly called a side wall vent.
Don't over think it , you should still bore a few holes for the trapped bays above and below the sky lights just above the baffle or IN the space above the insulation.
Cor-A-vent has a new roof to wall or side wall vent , at least to me I noticed the ad in Fine Home Building this month.
Here's the link : http://www.roof-2-wall.com/
(http://www.roof-2-wall.com/images/step-note.jpg)
A minimum 3/12 roof pitch is required for Roof-2-Wall application. NOTE: Installer is responsible for sealing ends of vent for each specific application.
Due to the wide variety of material choices and possible installation options, it is the installer's responsibility to seal the vent assembly's ends with appropriate method and materials to prevent weather infiltration
I was confused, I thought he meant also some type of venting along the side of the building. d* (In addition to where the roof meets the wall.