I built an off grid A-frame house in a remote area of the sierras in the summer of 2016 & have been living in it full time ever since. We get A LOT of snow where I live & for that reason I regret not 'indenting' the front & back of my A-frame in the traditional sense to provide a snow shelter for the front and back doors & decks. 

Im thinking I will just erect more "A's" but uncertain if setting the A's on top of the current deck structure (pictured) which consists of double 2x10x12 is a good idea? Maybe you all have some advice? Maybe I should strip the 2x6 deck boards at the edge of the deck & lay a 2x10 down to set the bottoms of the A's on?

All the A's are currently sitting atop a ~9ft cinder block stem wall. The roof sheds snow immediately so very little weight will be added to the deck structure in the way of snow, however, the snow shedding off the A's piles up on the sides to such a degree that I assume puts a degree of pressure inward.


 Attached are some picture's of what I have going on. 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/m9AQZXoTXQZtBrFUA
 https://photos.app.goo.gl/h5ZaPpUbsC7Y4oRT8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q2Wou78Q9axzgUjV6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8MXe9NJD76CcVXyi8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/uhdYoYCJrZYcdUPv9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/h5ZaPpUbsC7Y4oRT8

I'll have to see how many cells there are and get the charge voltage right.  I have the PDF somewhere at home   Time to get them up to speed on charge I think.

https://up.codes/viewer/new_york/irc-2018/chapter/6/wall-construction#R602.7

By the book, I believe you would want to use the spans for table 602.7 "Roof, ceiling and one clear-span floor"

A doubled 2x10 can span 6' 1" in 50psf snowload.

Alternative would be to add another screw to shorten the load bearing wall span.

If I went with the recommended 2"x10" without center beam, would the supported ends need to be double up, or could they be like this?

Quote from: NathanS on 3/16/2023, 8:40:17 AMThey make marine boat woodstoves that would be perfect for a little space like that.

I remember seeing someone with one of those on here a couple years ago.  It was a very attractive unit.
I was leaning more towards a small direct-vent propane heater.  They sell the 11,000 BTU units at a decent price.  They also take very little room, which helps in such a small structure.  Still haven't decided though.

Something like this:

Version 3.1.5 - 03.17.2023
- Added a fluting number parameter for classical columns.



Really wasn't wanting to dig into this right now but after a quick inspection of my code I realized it would only take me a few minutes to add in this additional parameter so that one could fine tune the look of the fluting of classical columns.

This update per customer request.

I'm not sure about the spray foam. Before I enclosed the eaves on my house, starlings would dig into and nest in the polyiso insulation. It's incredible the damage animals can do. Chipmunks actually chewed through the wood after it was enclosed and I believe they nested in it too.

I believe 18" is the separation needed to use non PT lumber.  

I just had the floor of my cabin spray foamed, we did 2".  Amazing the difference it made, highly recommend.  For a small occasionally used cabin I don't think you need any more than 2".  And I don't see how animals could get into it, but I guess I'll have to report back on that.

Quote from: NathanS on March 16, 2023, 07:40:17 AMI would consider framing the entire floor and subfloor with pressure treated. Insulate on top of the subfloor with 2"XPS. Anything underneath will turn into nest material for animals, I think.

I was contemplating that when the floor would have been much closer to the ground (had I left the beams lay directly on the foundation screws).  Since moving it up, I should have 18-20 inches above ground, and I seem to remember one of the Don's mentioning that was a safe zone for non-treated.   The only insulation I plan on adding is spray foam, I wonder, could that be used as nest material?  I was also concerned having pressure treated on the floor (off-gassing), since insulation will only happen in 1-2 years, and I will be using it in the meantime. 

Blocks are also difficult for me as I have a bad back, after my last surgery my doctor advised against any heavy lifting.  I tend to work like a madman for 16 hours straight, then have to lie on a sofa for 2 weeks to recover.  That was also driving the foundation screw idea.

All the weight (not a whole lot of it) goes to the to eave walls. At 12' your floor doesn't need a center support just some 2x10s or 2x12s, all 3 of the center screws aren't necessary - as long as you're doing joists and rafters.

They make marine boat woodstoves that would be perfect for a little space like that.

Just my opinion, you could lay down some solid CMU blocks and frame right on those. If the building moves its light enough to jack up with a car jack and shim.

I would consider framing the entire floor and subfloor with pressure treated. Insulate on top of the subfloor with 2"XPS. Anything underneath will turn into nest material for animals, I think.