Hi everyone, I'm a newbie to the site. Just wanted to introduce myself. I'm frank,
I've been doing some reading here. I'm planning a small hunting cabin in ferry county this next spring. The property has some awesome views and the wildlife is abundant. There's no power or water. The land has between 0 and 30% slopes, lots of bed rock. It's a 6 hour drive from where I live. It gets cold, windy & snow for 6 months. 3500 ft elevation. It has its challenges to overcome.
I'm keeping it simple. A 16 x 20 with one wall and 16 x 10 loft.
It will sit on 6x6 treated posts 3 ft in the ground and filled with concrete 2x12 floor joists 2x6 studs 2x10 rafters and 4x12 ridge beam
I have my lumber package, windows and doors.
Still looking for metal roof and siding. your Suggestion welcomed.
I met with the county planner. I have a plan in mind and what he wants, I can't do with the software I bought.
I'm going to try and draw them up. Paper work is my biggest weakness.
Do you know what sort of snow load you will have to deal with? How about roof pitch? 12/12 would not only give you more headroom in the loft and more usable loft floor space but, it would also help with snow loads by shedding snow before it gets very heavy. Will it be a four season cabin or will it hibernate over the winter? If a 3 season place heating capacity will obviously be much reduced. I definitely like metal roofing----the most economical is probably plain galvanized corrugated roofing. It comes in various gauge weights. If you browse both the general and projects forums you will find many answers----and the plans section may reveal ready made plans that can be easily customized to fit your specific desires.
Welcome to the forums!!
I don't remember what the county planer came up with for snow load but I was thinking 9 /12 pitch. He seemed like that was good. I could go more but I may have to make changes to my lumber. in the winter it can bury a 55 gallon drum with snow up there. Most everyone has metal roofs, and thats what I was thinking also. It will see off and on use may through November. Its 2 miles in from the county road which means snow mobile or snow plow for winter use but, hey. If the economy doesn't straighten out I may be doing a 4 season stay.
I will check out the forums for more ideas.
water heating etc.
w* aboard frank. I agree that a metal roof is best. We used 26 gauge.
When you say "6x6 treated posts, 3 ft in the ground and filled with concrete", do you mean pouring concrete in the hole around the posts? That might not be the best or even necessary. Concrete poured around wood can trap moisture against the wood. Even if it is PT I don't like the idea of that. We used an 8 inch thick, steel reinforced pored concrete footing, with the 6x6 posts resting on that. I back filled the holes with stone, pumice actually, as we have loads of it. We're located in the shadow of a dormant volcano. :o
Looking forward to seeing your progress
Hi Don, I agree filling the post holes with concrete might no be the best way to go. The county inspector gave me 3 choices.
In order of his preference:
1 Pour a concrete foundation
Too costly, especially when I would have to restore 2 miles of road to get a concrete truck to it.
2 6x6 posts set 3 feet deep and backfilled with concrete. min 12" dia.
3 12" sono tube 3' in the ground with 2 #4 bar on a 18" x 8" footing
Or, Build under 300 sq ft. without a permit
His reasoning is: when the wind blows, buildings not anchored to the ground become scattered.
He says he sees it every year. I want to keep him happy.
26 gauge metal.. Writing it down. Does anyone know where to purchase from for the best price?
Yeah, you got to keep the inspector happy.
As for best prices on metal, that's going to vary from place to place. All I can suggest to to check around. I started by asking a local builder who did a lot of homes with metal roofs. They were more than helpful and even gave me the names of a couple of their contract installers.
Here is a good start on prices for metal roofing.
http://www.polebarnsonline.com/
If you can't find it cheaper locally, you can buy it online. You can sometimes use the online prices for negotiating a better price. Also check craigslist.org. I have found it as cheap as $20 per sheet for 40" x 30'.
If you are feeling really "scrappy" - try locating the roll forming companies, the ones that buy the flat steel on rolls and form the ridges and cut it to length. If you find one reasonably close, you can call and ask about "tongues and tails". They are the first and last end pieces of a roll after its been formed into roofing and siding.
The downside? The lengths can vary. The roll former needs to be willing to sort to get you uniform or compatible patterns. The colors will vary.
Sometimes you can get lucky though and land a quantity of sheets cut to the wrong length for an order, or the wrong color or forming pattern was used and the order was rejected and returned.
The upside? Some roll formers are delighted to get rid of this irregular stock for their material cost or less. If they are making more $'s than they would from selling it as scrap and you come and get it they may like the idea.
Just a thought. (from the princess of scavenging)
squire,
I haven't checked craigslist yet, I'll check the listings before buying anything. There are Some great deals if you keep watching.
Thanks for that link. If I did it right I'm looking at around $800. To buy from them.
MountainDon & considerations
I'm in the construction industry so I can ask around. I've got almost all my supplies from builders Ive done work for so far.
I won't buy tell Its almost free. lol
Thanks for your suggestion, I like to look everywhere I can for a deal.
I tried to post a picture but It wouldn't let me ???
Is that something thats beyond the scope of a newbie with 10 posts?
The "attach" feature is disabled. All the images you see are hosted on a photo service site. There are a number available for free. Some of us like Photobucket. There's a how-to tutorial in the Forum News section.
Not a problem. Post the pic to Photobucket first for storage then copy the bottom tag that starts with IMG and paste it here into your message. Control C - will copy the tag when it is highlighted. Photobucket just downgraded a bit so it is a bit harder than before otherwise you can click on the picture in Photobucket and copy the bottom tag on the page with the single picture.
Ok, This will be the before pic. looking to the north where I plan on building.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/site.jpg)
It took a few trys to get the hang of it d*
A look to the west
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/west.jpg)
And a look to the east
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/bear.jpg)
Aye, carumba, Frank -- that's a bear. Dang it --- my Mexican is slipping in there again.... d* Sorry... just practicing.
Nice country, Frank.
Frank when to you anticipate getting started? You will have a great view after a little thinning and pruning. I think I would leave the bear there if he wants to stay. ;D
Where about are you? My wife and I have an offer on land in Addy (near Colville)
Ya, He's a nice looking bear.
We want to start on it this spring when it thaws.
I'll have some thinning to do but it should have a nice view.
Quote from: soomb on November 27, 2008, 12:02:13 AM
Where about are you? My wife and I have an offer on land in Addy (near Colville)
Were in curlew.
Its a nice area, but not much for work .
Quote
Its a nice area, but not much for work .
I can imagine. We are facing that issue with looking to relocate and build, not much in my field in those areas.
Welcome to the Forum and to Curlew Country. Got a hoot out of the pic with the bruin. I've been working on a cabin the same size as yours overlooking L. Curlew, on Ed Hill, off of Redmond Rd., for the past two summers. The inspector is pretty easy to deal with. Get him talking deer hunting, if you've got the time. If you lop 20 sqft off your cabin footprint, you wouldn't need a permit, and could install whatever footings/posts you want. I concur with Don's advice - that's basically what I did.
Steve
Howdy Woodswalker ,
Yours is 16 x 20?
I just read through your thread on it. Looking good!
I have met the inspector, and I agree he seems easy going. And yes I did get on the subject of deer. He has a picture in his office of a deer his dad or grampa (I forget) shot. The thing was huge, got it in Keller. He tried talking me into keeping it to 300 sq ft or smaller and not getting a permit.
He added in all the floor space. Building footprint, loft & porch and came up with 320(floor) + 160 (loft) + 80 (porch) = 560
The permit wasn't much, Somewhere around $125.
I may try to go with 300 for now. 15X19 may be alright and expand later If I get feeling crowded.
Wow, looks like I'll have a few forum members for neighbors over there.
A lot of snow this week has left me at home with time to work on my plans.
Here's what I have going.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/sectionplan-1.jpg)
ED: repaired photo link - MD
What I have for a floor plan
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/floorplan.jpg)
ED: repaired photo link - MD
Just a couple of thoughts...
Looking at that 4x4 PT brace in the first image. It would provide better stiffness if the one end was attached to the lower end of the middle post as pictured, but then having the upper end attach to a floor joist. That would provide a triangle which is stronger than the trapezoid as illustrated.
I wonder about the necessity of the 3020 window by the door? If you used a door with a window in it that would provide light in the entry. That would also allow a full 4 foot sheathing panel to reinforce the side wall.
What's the heat source going to be?
Moving the brace up to the floor joist would be easy enough. I get a head ache after awhile looking at these. You never seem to stop finding a better way.
I still have to get a 36" door so your right about eliminating the 3020
I have a 26" door with a window,but the paper work from the planer says 36"
I have more widows I could use. Do you think I'm at the max for all practical purpose's?
I'll use a heater buddy at first then,
Wood heat later on.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/sectionplan.jpg)
A 36" exterior door is more practical for moving things in and out anyways. That what I selected for our cabin.
To me it appears you have enough windows.
I don't recall if it was asked; any codes to be concerned with?
BTW ,Thank for your input Don.
It will go through planning and inspection. Footing, Framing.
Its considered a rec. building.
Later on made into living space.
WA state has some of the stricter codes. You should see what your area is going to stick you with before working too hard on the plans. Ask what energy code you might have to meet; maybe what they call a rec building is exempt from some. ???
energy codes are not that hard to meet if you are going to insulate. I do heat loss (manual J) calculations all the time and unless you are trying to do an unfinished structure they are usually approved. Some states are stricter but pretty much I have not found a state that 6" insulated walls do not meet code even with a 80% heating source. Now if an area allows lower than an 80% efficiency heating source there are generally no codes to deal with. Just my experience.
I talked with the county planer last year and went over the details. A rec. building doesn't need to meet much. A footing and framing inspection is required. He suggested building with a thought of energy codes and water/ power for the future. 2 inspections. 1 at the start and 1 at the end, but also says he may ok an inspection over the phone if he choses to.
I am interested in hearing what other builders have to say about this project. Ive been in the industry for around 25 years but not as a framer.
I clear/ log, site prep, commercial / residential, install utilities, public works sewer / water etc.
All suggestion are welcomed.
I took the 3020 window out and change the 6030 to a 4036 in the bedroom. I think it improved the look and probably added strength to the structure.
Frank if you were thinking of the window for ventilation you might see if you could find a door with a movable transom. In addition to the extra light it would be a way to vent air in. Just an idea.
Quote from: diyfrank on December 18, 2008, 10:16:54 PM
A rec. building doesn't need to meet much. A footing and framing inspection is required. He suggested building with a thought of energy codes and water/ power for the future. 2 inspections. 1 at the start and 1 at the end, but also says he may ok an inspection over the phone if he choses to.
That's cool.
I used a program called ResChek to run the energy codes on our cabin. It can be found at www.energycodes.gov (http://www.energycodes.gov) Unfortunately it doesn't do WA state. ::) It is interesting to play around with though. You input data for wall, floor, ceiling insulation, size of windows and their type, glass, etc. In my high altitude location I found it next to impossible to meet the NM code without using high quality low-e windows. Aluminum frames would not cut it for the amount of window space we wanted.
Ventilation was a big part of the windows.
I was thinking with no real heat source, no air conditioning. The only way to regulate it would be with windows on all sides to let sun it or open them for across breeze. It adds light in the areas that would need it most and I could use lanterns in the evening.
I was going to insulate it at my convenience. maybe in another year..
My goal from the start which sounds like a fairy tale was to build it using free material.
I have widows of certain sizes already and I was trying to work with them if possible.
The door could have a window as suggested for light.
I have a screen door that could be ventilation when needed.
The loft needs a 4036 for an exit I could put the 3020 from the entry up in the other gable end for light/ venting, if that make any sense.
Don,
I did download that insulation program you had posted on another thread. I'm not sure what I have for windows,they were given to me.
I will probably need to by new to know their rating.
building on the cheep/free is doable depending on your time frame. Over the last year I have collected a ton of material that was going to be put into dumsters. Everything from 2x6's to a brand new stainless steel sink. Being I work in construction I seem to find stuff like this all the time. And man I think I have my electrical boxes and plumbing fittings covered. I have also gotten a couple of things off craiglist and freecycle, it amazes me what people just want to get rid of.
I've been collecting wood windows and doors for awhile. I pretty much have that covered. I'm looking for a metal roof and a few things yet.
People, builders do toss a lot of new or slightly abused stuff in the dumpster. A builder I've done work for has given me more new lumber then needed for this project. I greatly appreciate his generosity.
You practically have a daylight basement there. Any pics of the site?
Planning is so much fun. Permission to dream. c*
Yes planning / deaming never stops.
I have wanted to build a cabin for a place to hunt or just go to from time to time since I was 19.
My kids are adult now and My wife and I are ready to get started.
I posted a couple pics at the start of this thread. Your welcome to check out my myspace photos.
Theres many pics of the land and some wildlife.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewAlbums&friendID=162208230 (http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewAlbums&friendID=162208230)
What program did you use to draw your section plan?
Hi new land owner.
I have punch super Home suit. I used the cad program in it. I don't know for sure but, I think pretty much all the home design programs will do that.
Hey Frank-
Nice project- It will be interesting to watch your progress.
I too am building over in Eastern Washington- closer to Tonasket.
Quick question...
I noticed your loft will be larger than 120 square feet. Are you planning to build a "to code" stair system or some type of ship's ladder to access the loft. I was told by the inspector that any loft over 120 square feet requires a triditional stair system with hand rail etc. Did you discuss this with the inspector? I am currently trying to figure a way around this code for my own place. Any ideas? Anyone?
All the best.
Hi skagit,
It'll be to code. I haven't discussed the stair / ladder with the inspector yet.
I'll make what ever changes he wants to keep them happy.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll start working on a couple things now just in case he wants stairs.
120' sq ft ???
Frank-
A stair system will take up alot of floor space in the main living area.
That is the issue for me- I don't want to give up the floor space if I can help it. A spirial stair can be used but the pre built ones can be spendy.
I have never built one- not sure if I want to take it on with everything else I have going. A furiture grade ship's ladder is what I had in mind.
Keep me posted Frank-
Tom
Spirals are hard to get big things up.
I think I could savage some of the space under the stair. Might be able to use the space under for a closet or kitchen cabinets. I may go a 119' sq ft loft for now if its too much headache.
Could be just me but I dislike spiral stairs, unless it's a second access for an upper or lower floor area. As Glenn stated, it is difficult to get anything larger than a UHaul small size moving box up or down. Plus I just don't like them. With the stair code changes regarding tread widths that could also become a problem.
Maybe building it 119 sq ft with a clandestine expansion some time after you get your CO would work. ???
I'm with you on the spirial stair Don.
My plan is to wait until I get my CO before I proceed with the loft-
(the beams are in place without the 2x6 car deck at this point)
I just don't know if I can explain away (with a straight face) the Glu-Lam beams that run the width of the building with no real reason for being there.
You scavenged them. A free overkill is better than a paid for minimum. You're going to hang an airplane from them. ???
A BIG hammock.
I think Curlew is a beautiful area, We are not too far from Curlew, we have a Kettle Falls address but we are up past Orient East of the Kettle River.
Stinkerbell,
I like the areas out there a lot also.
Do you have pictures of your place posted on here?
Link?
This may fly and I could live with the smaller bedroom & loft.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/revisedfloorplan.jpg)
Hey Frank,
Love your land, nice choice. I cant wait to see how you frame the windows for the view.
Thanks Bishopknight,
I appreciate the comments.
Nice job Frank:
RE: windows:
If you get some good sized windows in your search you might try getting some solar sunlight into the place depending on orientation and blockages. Nothing makes a small cabin feel bigger than some expansive windows. You may have to consider security however, and you probably want good frames and glass so as not to lose too much heat. But I have found good low-e vinyl frame windows for pennies on the dollar because they didn't fit the order specs and were sent back. Ask if your supplier has a boneyard and check the thrift shops as they sometimes get these as donations from a builder or supplier.
Usually I like to get cross ventilation and two light sources in each room if possible. It is best practice to leave a 28" to 48" (two stud bays) wide panel of sheathing within 8' of each corner. This locks the walls structurally. However, in a small cabin with structural sheathing on all the walls you would have to work pretty hard cutting holes to make it structurally unsound.
Thanks for your input on windows John.
I have 7 double pane vinyl framed windows to work with now. I don't know how energy efficient there are I picked them up in various places.
A larger one placed on the south side would catch a lot of the sun, however I'm on the north side of the hill.
I never thought about checking thrift stores. hmm.
Building has slow down so much in the last 2 years. Not much left in the bone yards. I've been looking around.
Security... ??? thats a tuff one. I'm 2 miles in and at the end of the road. Timber company to the east, national forest the south. 1 neighbor (I think I can trust) lives to the north. He watches the hill like he owns it. Fingers crossed, I'm 6 hour away.
You gave me some things to think on.
Speaking of windows... We changed the original oroentation of our cabin after spending a year or so of planning. We realized the prevailing winds were from the north or the south, depending on season and time of day mainly. So we turned it 90 degrees inorder to have a cross draft through the windows on the long sides.
I also designed the roof eve overhang to be sufficient to block the high daytime summer sun from striking the glass. The lower winter sun can strike the glass though.
I looked a lot for cheap windows (good windows at cheao prices like John described) but never had much luck until I got a couple off craigslist. Then we bought matching ones for the rest with a 10% off deal at Lowe's.
Don,
Now I'm needing to find out what way the wind blows!? d*
I have thought about the roofing blowing off if I put it on with the sheets overlapping the wrong way but not sure what way that is. I get trees down from all directions.
I'm never there when the weather is at its worst.
east /west ? blow up hill coming from the north?
Is there a weather site that might log that kind of info for a specific area?
:-\ more to think about.
Wind direction can vary a lot with the changes in terrain. You get little micro climates in places. Our ridge runs east-west. Generally we have a breeze from the south as the day warms (up the slope) and then a breeze from the north (down the slope) as the day cools. But it can be all over the compass too. When storms blow through the wind is frequently predominately from the west.
I do have a weather station of my own, but to record the data over time there has to be a live computer as well. I have collected a lot of data while up there. When we're away all we can retrieve are the mins and maxes.
This may or may not be of any help to you. http://www.met.utah.edu/mesowest/ (http://www.met.utah.edu/mesowest/)
That's a link to a weather recording service. There are remote sensing stations all over the country. You can access data from them and see what the hourly winds were, temperatures, humidity, rainfall (some stations have heaters and give near real time snow into water figures), barometric pressure, etc. There are also downloadable data going back many years. The national weather service among others uses this data in their forecasting.
We have one of these near our cabin site, 4 or 5 miles distant. Our weather is sometimes quite close, and at times several degrees off etc. FWIW, here's the link to the one close to us... http://www.met.utah.edu/cgi-bin/droman/meso_base.cgi?stn=JESN5&unit=0&time=LOCAL&product= (http://www.met.utah.edu/cgi-bin/droman/meso_base.cgi?stn=JESN5&unit=0&time=LOCAL&product=)
If you're curious, here's another of my favorite weather sites, the National Weather Service. http://www.weather.gov/ (http://www.weather.gov/) You can enter your location and use the clickable map to narrow it down to your location of interest.
Mine is (more or less): http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=35.789725176060465&lon=-106.57952785491943&site=abq&smap=1&marine=0&unit=0&lg=en&mp=0 (http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=35.789725176060465&lon=-106.57952785491943&site=abq&smap=1&marine=0&unit=0&lg=en&mp=0)
Perfect, That looks like a great site for what I was looking for.
I'll monitor it for a while.
Frank--I'd like to drop by this next summer and check out your work! I have property up on Empire Creek ( must be pretty close) and spend time out on Samish Island in the summer (again, close to your environs). We winter down in Tucson, and from the sounds of things up there, probably a good idea!! I'd love to take you up on our property, about 170 acres, to show you some fabulous views of Granite Mt, Mt. Elizabeth, as well as the whole Kettle Mt. Range. Dave
w* Dave,
Sounds like a nice piece you have there.
How far are you from Curlew,I'm not sure where Empire Creek is.
you planning to build??
We're south of Curlew a couple miles, off of 21, then west 2 miles up Empire Creek. We have 2 sites picked out to build on, and had a seismic water test done on the sites to make sure water was available in both places.
Thats cool.
What did the water test run you?
Whats the elevation?
I looked at the well logs online and was guesting water to be 300 ft+, possibly 600 ft
where I'm at.
The tests were expensive, about $1100/site. But it's much cheaper than drilling a dry hole. I used them in Western Washington, and they were spot on. They said I'd have 3-6 gpm at 40' and we hit 5 gpm at 38'. We sit at 2700' at our site , one of them came in at 10gpm at 95', and the other at 10gpm at 190'. Not great, but enough to get by with some good planning.
Most people in my area would be tickled to death to get 10GPM. I was fortunate at the house to get 60GPM @ 393'. Also at the cabin 10GPM @ 190'. 10 GPM is more than enough if you use the casing as storage.
We have 1gpm from somewhere above 675 - static was 169
Dave,
Sounds like money well spent.
I looked at your area on the topo map You must be around section 4?
Are you planning to post your progress. I know Theres a few people on here building the east side.
Its always good to see what people come up with.
We're in section 34, the other side of the county road. Lots of deer, both whitetail and muley, turkeys (tho wild, they often follow you like a flock), black bear ( a 422 pound one was killed there this fall!!), bobcats and cougar (one killed our neighbors dog a couple years ago). What a great spot that I'd love to drag you around this next summer. People don't realize how beautiful it is until they visit it in person... Well, you know , as you live right in the area!!!!! America's undiscovered paradise.
Sounds great Dave, I'd like to check it out.
I know what you mean about the game, it's what brought me to the area.
"America's undiscovered paradise"
You have to lie to keep it that way. Don't tell anyone. The Olympic Peninsula, Sequim mostly, has become overrun with McMansions, and then, after the new folk settled in, they started complaining about the lack of big box stores, so much for country living. Now they are paving Sequim with them. Looks like Anywhere, USA now.
Fortunately I found property in a demographically undesirable area.
I hear ya considerations.
BTW, Sequim was in the news this morning, seems it has peaked in popularity.
No longer the place to be.
http://www.komonews.com/news/36805604.html (http://www.komonews.com/news/36805604.html)
Are you a sure your a 4x12 ridge beam is gonna fly. i'm gonna build this spring also and in 75 pound snow load are north of winthrop a few miles and for a 16x20. they quoted me a 5x15 glue lam to free span. might be something to check into.
I was told buy the planning dept. 2- 2x12 will work.
It has a 10' loft so it only spanning 10' without some sort of support other than the ridge beam.
Frank!
I think you are my neighbor to the north! I have 20 acres off of little goosmus creek road, at the very top of the hill.
https://i319.photobucket.com/albums/mm471/stressman79/curlewtrip050.jpg
I can't get to the photobucket site from this location (blocked by work).
I too will be starting next spring. we should talk concerning pooling resources (tools, etc)
shoot me an email @ stressman79@hotmail.com (my spam account)
-Peter
I got into my photobucket site.
Here are some pics of the view to the north. The south needs some pruning.
(https://i319.photobucket.com/albums/mm471/stressman79/curlewtrip055.jpg)
(https://i319.photobucket.com/albums/mm471/stressman79/curlewtrip051.jpg)
(https://i319.photobucket.com/albums/mm471/stressman79/curlewtrip057.jpg)
(https://i319.photobucket.com/albums/mm471/stressman79/curlewtrip068.jpg)
enjoy, everyone!
Oh, and if you are interested in building a real log home from scratch for cheap,
www.loghomebuilders.org
-Peter
Hey peter w*
I'm actually to the south off long Alec creek.
I'll shoot you an email.
Very nice spot. Should make for many pleasant years ahead.
I went over to start my holes. I left at 1:30am, drove 7 hours, dug my holes and drove back. Made it home at 2:30 am the next morning. whew ::)
At the property, I made it almost all the way up, it's muddy and steep. I had to unload my beams and 100 gallons of water right here and pack my tools up another 100' or so.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02277.jpg)
The ground I picked out for cabin was wet. I dug down 3' and got through the mud but the hole had a few inches of water at the bottom and very big rock. I'll see water the inspector says. It may be normal after the thaw and snow melt. I didn't dig any test holes anywhere else yet, but I'm going over next weekend so I'll check things out a little better.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02278.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02284.jpg)
Last year I built a few cameras to leave out over the winter. 2 were still working and one had moisture in it and had stop taking pictures. Had around 500 on them.
Here's a few I liked.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC00669.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC00338.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC00337.jpg)
I counted 5 nice bucks that looked to have made it.
Frank if you are pouring the footings that little bit of water will not hurt anything. In fact the concrete & water are friendly. ;D Actually it will force the water to the top. Too much standing is not good but from the looks at the pics that is not bad.
I think as long as its a seasonal thing. ???
I want to make sure I didn't just pick a spot that will always be wet. It is a fairly steep hill.
GREAT pictures frank! The only moose pictures I've been able to get are of tracks... That Deer looks big bodied. My Sister has a place near Bonaparte and they have some of the biggest bodied Whitetails I've ever seen. Must be something good to eat in your areas. The moose looked a little skinny though. One heck of a commute you put in. Drive - work - drive. Time goes too fast over there as it is but it looks like you got things rolling.
Stressman - Nice looking place you have there. Looks like a lot of us here ended up with in the same country. Maybe we should develop some kind of a code to keep the area a secret. I think I'll change my location to "Eastern Canada." ;)
Some real nice wildlife pics, Frank. Got to get one of those cameras.
I would't get too concerned about a little water in your post holes this time of year. Many areas around there have a seasonal high water table due to snow melt. One year I had several inches of water show up in the outhouse pit, but it quickly disappeared.
The pic below was taken by a friend on Monday (5/18/09), on the road to Swan Lake. Initially, the bruin stood upright in the middle of the road and appeared to be at least 6' tall. It's a black bear, but this one is very brown - fairly rare.
(https://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Woodswalker_WA/IMG_12391.jpg)
Woodswalker, I think your probably right on the water table. The water doesn't seem to be too bad. The holes where still holding when I showed up this weekend but, as the temps reached the low 80's, the water level dropped. I probed around and this spot was better than a lot of area's I checked.
The slope is around 20%. I picked a spot that is partly on a old road grade,so total fall top to bottom of the building is only
2 1/2'.
I moved my location at the last minute and was digging like a fool before the inspection at 2:00 Thursday afternoon.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02343.jpg)
Friday was DW day, we walked and looked at flowers. took pictures and anything but work.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02334.jpg)
The work crew showed up Saturday morning at we began setting posts.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02344.jpg)
We used pt pole barn poles and hit them with Jasco preservative for extra protection and secured ep46hdg post base to them.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02350.jpg)
We added 2 80# sacks of Quickcrete, threw in some steel, and another 2 sacks on top.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02352.jpg)
This is where we left off.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02398.jpg)
Those are some nice pics of the moose (mooses? d* )
Woops, just realized I didn't look at the whole page - the rest of the pics are nice too! Very pretty country.
Out of the ground! [cool]
The fun part is ahead! ;D Nice work!
The cabin security post caused me to flash back.....um, er,, remember a DIY cabin project probably in Popular Mechanics from the early 60's. There was about an 8 foot deck along the walls, with the decking tied together in panels and resting on girders. The end near the house was hinged on an extended Ledger. Time to close up the house the deck panels were folded up and locked against the house over the windows.
Re: security:
could you build in the hardware to cover over windows with panels sized for the job and use pad locks? There is a cabin (built of block) in Yakima that won several awards in the early 90's for a design that was a step up from camping and was secure when the owner left.
http://www.millerhull.com/htm/residential/marquand.htm (http://www.millerhull.com/htm/residential/marquand.htm)
andhttp://seattletimes.nwsource.com/pacificnw/2001/0520/aesthetic.html (http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/pacificnw/2001/0520/aesthetic.html) the text is inset along with the description of the steel window covers.
I made it over last saturday and this saturday and got a little done.
I also got a chance to meet up with Woodswalker and took a look at his place. He's building basically the same size cabin as what I'm doing. Nice looking piece of property overlooking the lake about 40 minute from where I'm at.
I picked up some foundation coating and applied some around the bottoms for the extra protection.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02418.jpg)
I slipped 8"sch 40 pvc over the posts and began mixing soil cement backfill for around the sleeves
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02467.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02462.jpg)
I filled the insides with 5/8 rock for drainage.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02516.jpg)
I tilled the area inside the posts, added 6 bags of Portland cement and applied 50 gallon of water
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02519.jpg)
I added a section of pipe for a floor drain, let it set for a few hours to soak, than I plate compacted.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02535.jpg)
The plan is to dig a foot or so deep around the perimeter for the skirting and backfill with pea gravel.
In the 3rd picture, is that a small garden tiller you're using to mix the cement in a wheelbarrow?
That is a small garden tiller. It seems to be light enough to use for mixing small batches. It's faster than hand mixing.
Wow...I've never thought of that. I've never heard of it either. How's clean-up?
I might have to steal that idea. I need a small garden tiller/weeder anyways. Thanks.
I mixed it dry so there wasn't any clean up needed. If the dirt was wet I think I would run it in some untreated dirt afterwards or just rinse.
Quote from: diyfrank on July 05, 2009, 09:57:49 PM
I mixed it dry so there wasn't any clean up needed. If the dirt was wet I think I would run it in some untreated dirt afterwards or just rinse.
Haha...there I go learnin' again. ;) I thought cement had to mixed with
some water before it was used.
Thanks for the info, diyfrank. Much appreciated.
Good stuff. Thanks for pictures and the update.
We made it up last weekend and got a little more done.
We built the beams and got a start on the floor.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01431.jpg)
I took a suggestion from Donp and used 2 x12's for blocking between the beams.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01440.jpg)
Nice clean sturdy work. A real pleasure to watch.
What a dynamite view from that platform. :D
Thanks John, I plan to open up the view more. Mainly just cleaning up Down hill.
Taking some of MD advise on fire defense. It could really race through this place if ever started.
Getting back to it.
I placed some plastic underneath for a vapor barrier.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02667.jpg)
The floor going down.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02671.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02673.jpg)
We hung felt between the skirting and the joists and beams. I don't know how important it was but felt is cheap and may keep the moister from sitting in between.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02682.jpg)
A look at my skirting frame work on the low side.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02685.jpg)
And a look into the unfinished crawler.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02686.jpg)
The skirting will be backfilled with pea gravel 1' up to the top of the pvc pipe sections.
I'll do a batten 16" oc on the skirting when done.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02687.jpg)
Wow, what great attention to a quality foundation, I looking forward to seeing the rest of the house now.
looking good frank :D
Nicely done Frank-
With that foundation your cabin will be around for many years to come.
Looking forward to seeing more of your progress.
All the best-
Tom
I've started laying out my walls, precutting and numbering the pieces.
It worked out well so far. I was able to fine tune the pieces and cut and fit my rafter.
After laying out the first half gable with door and window, I duplicated the same layout minus the door and window for the remaining 3 half gables. Care was taken to make sure all was square & plumb. I double checked the math to make sure all cuts jived with my original plan calc's.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02779.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02776.jpg)
Here is my wall layouts.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/eastwall.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/west-1.jpg)
Sweet! I had thought of doing something like that with a shed I want up at the ranch, but I don't have a dry space here that I could do it in. I would think that it would speed constriction once you were on-site.
With any luck I hope to have 4 walls and a roof up in 1 weekend. It's exspensive to make the 7 hour trip loaded with wood.
I hate going there to do what could be done at home. ::)
We made it up there (My nephew and I) with a load. The weather was cold and wet when we arrived and had to chain up just to get to the site.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01545Medium.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01546Medium.jpg)
We had time to off load the wood and lay it out before getting late.
We spent the night sleeping under the cabin floor just in case it rained over night.
Saturday the walls started to come together.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01549Medium.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01553Medium.jpg)
Saturday night was real nice out and we spent the night inside the cabin for the first time.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01565Medium.jpg)
This is where we left it on Sunday after packing up.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01572Medium.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01574Medium.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01575Medium.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01576Medium.jpg)
We'll hit it again in a few weeks and maybe get to the roof with any luck.
Nice to see it taking shape. I bet the stars were amazing.
It's amazing how many of us there are almost in hollering distance of each other.
Excellent pictures and documentation! I'm learning something while reading and I love that about this website!!!
Now, besides that fact that you have awesome views and wildlife and excellent progress I have to say the foundation work pictures really got me thinking. I've been debating what I plan to do with mine and I think once all the bracing work etc is done (yes I'm a tad late on it) I'm going to wall it in like yours! I'll not have the ground work you did but I think I'm ok (it's very dry) -- I like the walled in idea for several reasons but one of them is critters! I've noticed that something decided the South East corner would be a good place to hang out and all the plastic was moved away and the ground was disturbed in what looked like a sleeping spot for coyotes! Hmmm....
Good Grief!! What an awesome view you'll have! NICE
One thing I've been meaning to do and haven't yet is cut ventilation holes in each corner and place a screen over the openings. I'm also planing to make a sliding door on the inside for closing the vents off, if and when needed.
I now have mold starting to grow underneath in a few places.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02875Medium.jpg)
Onces it's dried in and ventilated I think I'll be alright. I had the floor covered with plastic and tacked down real secure this winter but it seemed to let water under and trap it there. I think around a couple gallons drained off when I removed it.
It's amazing how undisturbed your property is! Looks as if your cabin has always belonged there.
/
My nephew and I hit it last weekend. We managed to get more framing and sheathing done.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC02930.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01605.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01604.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01603.jpg)
A view standing on the loft,however once the roof is on it will loose the view
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01611.jpg)
Looking out the Egress window in the loft. This would be an excellent place to be during hunting season. Animals like to cross right here regularly. I don't think I could hunt while laying in a sleeping bag tho. :)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01612.jpg)
That view SCREAMS "I need a dormer!"
Maybe double/triple up a set of rafters for a future addition... ;)
I agree a future dormer would be a great add on latter. I'll be happy to get it weather tight before November snow. ::)
Quote from: Yonderosa on July 14, 2010, 07:06:21 PM
That view SCREAMS "I need a dormer!"
Maybe double/triple up a set of rafters for a future addition... ;)
That's what I was thinking!
Heres an update on the progress my nephew Everett and I made last weekend.
Ridge in place.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01627Medium.jpg)
Half of the rafters up.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01632Medium.jpg)
A temporary. cat walk For safe work.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01629Medium.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01628Medium.jpg)
Also, we had cut the holes into the skirting for the crawl space vents a few weeks back and all seem to be dry below and no more mold. I did buy a mold cleaner but I think I'll wait to use it.
Nice progress! Were you up this past weekend? We were up for a week and the nights were awesome! I LOVE the 40 degree nights!
Thanks OlJarhead. Yes we were up there and the night were great.
Looks great! Wish I could get up there and finish up ... alas, it won't be until September, I fear.
I see you used the "hangers" for the roof rafters on the ridge, I would think that would make putting them up a bit easier, right? Did you put the hangers on the ridge before placing it? or after?
Nice work Frank- Looking good.
I think I saw you heading over the SR 20 pass Friday evening- roof racks loaded with your pre cut rafters?
You guys pulled into Winthrop right in front of me about 8pm. + -
I noticed your truck in one of your posts and when I saw it with the rafters I thought... That must be Frank!
Keep up the good work!
Yes that would have been us. Next time give us a wave. ;)
Quote from: JavaMan on July 22, 2010, 09:43:32 AM
Looks great! Wish I could get up there and finish up ... alas, it won't be until September, I fear.
I see you used the "hangers" for the roof rafters on the ridge, I would think that would make putting them up a bit easier, right? Did you put the hangers on the ridge before placing it? or after?
What we did was set the rafter in place and tack it to the top plate to keep it from sliding. Toe nail the rafter in place and added the Simpson A35. Then placed blocking in between and nail to the rafter and ridge.
As for the reason for using the brackets, just because I have them and something would be better than nothing. It wasn't hard to put them on.
I when up this weekend and got a little done. I had these guys on my video cam. Season opens Sept. 1st. [cool]
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/th_CLIP0006.jpg) (https://s404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/?action=view¤t=CLIP0006.mp4)
You must be a bow hunter...
I go modern sometimes. I did last year and it was a little disappointing. Bear deer bobcat all open the 1st for bow and they have a late season for archery over there but not for modern. Odds are a lot better and the way the land lays it's made for 50 yards & under. We'll see what this year brings. :)
Quote from: diyfrank on August 16, 2010, 10:24:01 PM
I go modern sometimes. I did last year and it was a little disappointing. Bear deer bobcat all open the 1st for bow and they have a late season for archery over there but not for modern. Odds are a lot better and the way the land lays it's made for 50 yards & under. We'll see what this year brings. :)
Bow season is definitely better then modern. I've often thought it would be better to use a bow or black powder...but since I just went back to hunting a few years ago I'll stick with the rifle (which I know) and hope to benefit from its long range :)
Nice! Are you in 204?
Need to get a new rest for my bow, haven't been shooting it much so I'll probably have to go modern this year.
Quote from: Yonderosa on August 17, 2010, 07:02:15 PM
Nice! Are you in 204?
Need to get a new rest for my bow, haven't been shooting it much so I'll probably have to go modern this year.
Not sure if he is but I am -- think I'm not too far south of you -- speaking of which, seen any Elk in your area?
Quote from: OlJarhead on August 17, 2010, 07:14:17 PM
Quote from: Yonderosa on August 17, 2010, 07:02:15 PM
Nice! Are you in 204?
Need to get a new rest for my bow, haven't been shooting it much so I'll probably have to go modern this year.
Not sure if he is but I am -- think I'm not too far south of you -- speaking of which, seen any Elk in your area?
No Elk yet ??? - that would make my place perfect! Lots of browse and Elk looking habitat, the welcome mat is out!
Plenty of Moose though. ;D They're pets so there won't be any gut piles on my place.
I think you're north of me, I'm not far out of Omak. I think Skagit is closest to me, then you, then Java and then diyfrank staying on 20
Quote from: Yonderosa on August 17, 2010, 07:02:15 PM
Nice! Are you in 204?
Need to get a new rest for my bow, haven't been shooting it much so I'll probably have to go modern this year.
Were in 201 Sherman.
Speaking of moose I have this young guy that been hanging around.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/youngbull.jpg)
Quote from: Yonderosa on August 17, 2010, 07:58:55 PM
Quote from: OlJarhead on August 17, 2010, 07:14:17 PM
Quote from: Yonderosa on August 17, 2010, 07:02:15 PM
Nice! Are you in 204?
Need to get a new rest for my bow, haven't been shooting it much so I'll probably have to go modern this year.
Not sure if he is but I am -- think I'm not too far south of you -- speaking of which, seen any Elk in your area?
No Elk yet ??? - that would make my place perfect! Lots of browse and Elk looking habitat, the welcome mat is out!
Plenty of Moose though. ;D They're pets so there won't be any gut piles on my place.
I think you're north of me, I'm not far out of Omak. I think Skagit is closest to me, then you, then Java and then diyfrank staying on 20
Moose! I LOVE Moose :) :D
All this time I thought you were North of me....hmmm....for some reason I thought the lakes you were fishing in were above me...
And I'm not far off 20 though it would be a LONG drive to use 20 to get to me unless you were on Horseback -- and then it would be long too *chuckle*....
Hidden I am ;)
A nice sized elk roast barded with good bacon and garlic cloves, a little huckleberry/whiskey sauce on the side....makes my mouth water.
Quote from: considerations on August 19, 2010, 09:30:38 AM
A nice sized elk roast barded with good bacon and garlic cloves, a little huckleberry/whiskey sauce on the side....makes my mouth water.
Sounds delicious! :P
Well, I worked a little on the cabin this week in between hunting and managed to get the roof sheathed.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC03163Medium.jpg)
These guys had pretty much considered the place their home. I woke up many times with them running around me and refusing to leave.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC03175Medium.jpg)
The weather turned and started to get ugly. Time to get serious about things. :-\
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC03173Medium.jpg)
Windows and door went in and just as fate would have it, the generator stopped putting out! ???
I finished things up the old fashion way and hand cut and hammered the rest.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC03181Medium.jpg)
Yeah! the last nail! [cool]
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC03184Medium.jpg)
I know the roof looks a little on the checkered side but this cabin is the result of three years of dumpster diving. I did spent $200. on ready mix and $100 on windows. At this point I think total out of pocket is around $500.
Pretty much shelled in for $500! :o
Amazing progress considering the size of the crew and budget. Good work, now get it buttoned up. The coast is sending you some weather (cold and wet here in Puget Sound).
:D You may already know this. :D
Yes John, I believe summer is over..
With any luck I may have it ready before snow arrives.
Wow! That's looking good! And for only $500! I've probably got close to 4 X that in mine already and not nearly as far along. Good job!
Looking very good frank.
Any prognosis on the generator?
Haven't taking it apart yet. I tested the outlets and they had no current. There is a 12 v dc outlet and it was putting out around 9 v.
I'm hoping it may be the circuit breaker being broken and not anything marjor... It was working so good for so long. ???
I went to the cabin for a few days but I didn't do much as far as work. We had snow. :)
I picked up a small dozer 6 way blade with brush rake and had it delivered. My plan is to build a car friendly drive way this spring (2 miles ) and do some fire prevention. I may pick up some road building from a few of the neighbors as well. I'll be busy come spring.
The generator problem was a broken wire connection to the slip rings. Very common according to the tech support, easy fix.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01673.jpg)
I retrieved a camera I forgot to remove during the hunting season. I had this bruiser on it. A real beauty, I counted it a 9x9
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC00045e.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC00046e.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC00047e.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC00043e.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC00053e.jpg)
Have you named this beautiful beast? I am thinking Blitzen!
Ha ha. I haven't named him but if still around next season I may call him "Lucky"
I've seen him up close twice so far, I hope he sticks around.
I'd be looking for his sheds next spring. What a stud. I hope he had lots of girlfriends this fall. I doubt he'd taste very good but man would he look good on the wall. :)
What is he eatin around there? Is there a farm nearby or do your neighbors feed deer? Besides good genetics he looks well fed too.
That white on his face and around the eyes makes me think he's been around for a long while. I'm kinda hopin' he'll last a few more years to get more pictures, then the fall before he'd starve you put a tag on him. Monarch of a whitetail!
I've been getting started again after a very wet winter and spring. I've opened things up a little to allow a truck to drive around to the other side and will be building a rockery along my cut bank using native rocks. I'll also be building a new road in to allow car access.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC03593Medium.jpg)
I made some feet and hook to attach to my ladder for putting on my metal roof after some frustrating attempts at laying down the under layment.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01692Medium.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01696Medium.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01708Medium.jpg)(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01709Medium.jpg)
It raised the ladder and made it easy to roll the underlayment past the ladder [cool]
It was also light enough to throw the ladder side to side to repossition
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01704Medium.jpg)(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01697Medium.jpg)(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC01711Medium.jpg)
One question I have is 3"'s of over hang to much? I may have to trim it back a bit.
Frank the overhang will not hurt as long as you are not going to put up gutter. If you are the water will over shoot the gutter.
Ok, thanks. I seen a barn near by with around 1' and the edge has been folded down from I assume snow.
Quote from: diyfrank on July 18, 2011, 07:11:27 AM
Ok, thanks. I seen a barn near by with around 1' and the edge has been folded down from I assume snow.
Most likely snow and of course ice and icy snow. ;)
Good to see you getting back at it, Frank!
The place looks like it's starting to take some shape. The new drive looks good, too.
Heres an update to my progress, I'm getting there slowly.
I have my stairs built and a start on my siding.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC03741.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC03739.jpg)
[cool]
Coming along nicely!
Beauty spot too
Cool! It feels good to make progress doesn't it? [cool]
Nice progress! [cool]
I haven't updated in a while and yes It feels good to be making progress no matter how slowly it may seem.
I have the rest of the siding done and finished the Hardie singles.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC03778.jpg)
The weather is trying to turn on me but I feel good about getting this far.
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC03784.jpg)
(https://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/DSC03790.jpg)
My ridge cap when purchased came with a roll of either a roll of a solid foam to seal the ridge cap down or a roll of a lighter type that is breathable for a vented cap. Mine is vented so I have the breathable foam.
Question, Would sealing up the roof panels with a spray foam like Great stuff be good or bad and still allow the inside of my roof to continue to vent. ???
I see you used a ladder leaning against the roof to work on the ridge cap...how'd that work out? I have a 28 foot ladder that I might have to try this with but the ridge cap at the tall end of mine is 19 feet up!
I haven't been up there to work on the cap yet but I did give it a test climb and it feels right. I just position the ladders for the next trip.
I'm right at the 19' mark also.
Quote from: diyfrank on October 25, 2011, 06:23:29 AM
I haven't been up there to work on the cap yet but I did give it a test climb and it feels right. I just position the ladders for the next trip.
I'm right at the 19' mark also.
How long is the ladder? I'll have to try that and see how it works. My son can hold the bottom I guess though maybe some big spikes would be good too! Just seems like an awfully shallow angle?
I need to get my ridge cap properly buttoned down and the gables done but I've neglected to get it done all summer and here we are coming into winter again :(
My ladders are 24' and feel very solid. If you adjust the angle to match the pitch it has a feeling like it belongs there.
I've seen guys at work take a heavy piece of plywood about 1' square and nail a small box onto it from 2"x2" making a box the ladder feet set into. A couple hole in the plywood allow spiking it to the ground.
Quote from: diyfrank on October 25, 2011, 09:26:58 PM
My ladders are 24' and feel very solid. If you adjust the angle to match the pitch it has a feeling like it belongs there.
I've seen guys at work take a heavy piece of plywood about 1' square and nail a small box onto it from 2"x2" making a box the ladder feet set into. A couple hole in the plywood allow spiking it to the ground.
Cool thanks! Then my 28' ladder should do the trick and maybe I can finally get the ridge cap done! I ned to affix it completely and box the ends in as well as get the gable trim on....time to give this a try!