I have added an addition to my 1 and 1/2 story cabin plans. This will result in having to join the rood of the addition into the main roof. Is there any information on how to do this within the site? I've been looking everywhere.
Here is a little - pretty straightforward.
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3339.0
a little more
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3226.0
a bit here
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=280.0
General framing - didn't see much on perpendicular but same except cricket or Hobbiest's name for it - I forgot - California over frame?
http://www.awc.org/pdf/WCD1-300.pdf
I should of asked before, but what is a cricket?
Quote from: Alberta Curt on July 29, 2008, 08:54:26 PM
I should of asked before, but what is a cricket?
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3339.msg36004#msg36004
This one is still bugging me guys. I know you said it isn't difficult, but I just can't get my mind wrapped around it. When framing the roof on the addition, do I just run the ridge beam into the sheething of the original roof?
This is what I'm trying to do............
(https://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/hockey_66/roof.jpg)
I would lay a couple 2x's flat on the original roof too, to nail the sheathing of the intersecting roof into then land the ridge board on them.
I don't know if that's right but that's still what I'd do. d*
There is a downloadable framing manual in free stuff that may help.
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=1433.0
Yes, that is what I show in the Enchilada kit (http://www.jshow.com/y2k/listings/43.html) (p. E-9). Let one roof be the master and build this roof complete with framing (and even sheathing perhaps) but no roofing. Frame the extension or addition roof up to the wall line of the main roof. Then all that is left is the fill-in cricket. Layout a ridge board (2x) from the peak to the point where it hits the main roof. Snap a line from here to layout the 2x sleepers for landing the new rafters.
This is described as a "California roof" or no-valley framing and explained on p. 220-21 of George Nash's, "Do-It-Yourself Housebuilding (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0806904240/countryplanscom#Best%20book%20on%20building%20your%20own%20house)". It is the same way you would build it later as a remodel project and is much easier than the older style valley rafter framing (where the under roof area is left open).
Here is a diagram from Rob Thallon's "Graphic Guide to Frame Construction (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1561583537/countryplanscom#Drawings%20you%20can%20copy%20into%20your%20plans)". You can see there are different names for this, and it is perhaps easier to build than to explain.
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/california_valley.jpg)
Don't know what happened to the photo but the image by Albert is not there. I usually don't have a problem with the framing but the shingles are a different story especially if there are two different pitch roofs. Then go back to the open valley approach or cut the one side straight while the other weaves under.
On my cabin this was a major hurdle for me. I did not have the intersecting ridge to come off of. After several attempts a friend who is a builder helped me figure it out. Two days for me and no where and only 2 minutes for him. The intersecting ridges were in the middle of the flue.
I don't have step by step photos, but a number of years ago when we added a room on the back of the house I did more or less what John suggested. I built the added room walls and ordered vaulted ceiling trusses. With the trusses up I simply ran a horizontal line to the existing roof. The shingles were then cut and stripped off within the area to be covered by the new roof cricket.
The cricket was framed up using dimension lumber. I cut out some of the old sheathing to allow access through for the heating/cooling duct. I was able to match the shingles and after a year or so you couldn't really tell any difference.