Hi-
i think ive had this problem twice now.. cant figure it out.
Today I replaced two outlets today including the wire running between them. They are both middle-of-run outlets.
When i killed power to the circuit in my dining room this morning, the fridge in the kitchen also lost power. (its outlet is on the opposite side of the same interior wall). I cut away the two old receptacles, ran new 12 guage wire between them, reconnected the wires (incorrectly the first time). After reconnecting them, both outlets work but the fridge does not work yet :( d* One is on the same interior wall as the fridge outlet, one is on an exterior wall. I don't know where the outfeed of the 2nd outlet goes.
If i had to guess, i think the fridge outlet is 'upstream' or closer to the fuse panel, but now that I think bout it i'm not sure. I'm pretty sure tho.
I'm lost at this point and not really sure what to do next. I re-read my Black and Decker Complete Guide to Wiring... nothing seemed to click.
Couple of questions:
1) does it matter if the 'in feed' and 'out feed' are on the top or bottom of the outlet? Could i have reversed connected them to the wrong end of the outlet and that affected something?
2) What are the tabs about -- they make for switched outlets right? I cant figure them out. I did not modify the tabs on my 15amp outlets.
3) is it that possibly the fridge is upstream from the outlet and there is a lose wire on the outlet?
Totally confused (and kinda scared) by this electrical stuff.
thanks
duncan
Check the outlets. . . Make sure that enough of the wires insulation was stripped back. The outlet will not work if the wire doesn't make contact between the screw and the outlet. . . An improperly stripped wire can also cause arcing and sparks. Obviously, it could become a serious situation. Also, don't nick the wire when stripping the insulation. A nicked wire could create a "hot spot" that is a fire hazard.
Yes, only remove the "tab" if running more than one circuit to the outlet. . . (½ of the outlet switchable for lamp, etc. . . )
BTW The "hot" black or red wire goes to the brass screw. Neutral (white) wire to the silver screw and the ground screw is green.
15 amp circuit requires 14 gauge wire and 20 amps requires 12 gauge wire
Make double sure that the electric is off before attempting any repair. "It'll bite ya"
//
I would get an outlet polarity tester. It will let you know that the polarity at the plug in is correct and that you have continuous ground. Standard practice on wiring plugs is that the hot (black) is terminated under the brass (darker) screw and the neutral (white) is terminated under the silver (lighter) screw and the bare copper is terminated under the green screw. Top or bottom in or out does not matter as long as polarity is correct. I would unplug all devices from the circuit in question until the polarity question is answered. Any hardware or electrical supply house sells the polarity checkers.
As with all electrical wiring, never make changes to wiring without turning breaker off, however you must have power on for checking polarity. Remember lockout/tagout. Electricity does not discriminate.
Have you checked to set if the outlet to the refrigerator is actually hot? ie Refrigerator went bad. Is there a GFI plug in on this circuit? Could be off under a sink like a disposal or ? Some place you never think of. Check to see if it tripped.
I would check and make sure the refrigerator outlet is not downstream from a GFI receptical that has tripped or on a GFI breaker protected circuit that has tripped or possibly an new ARC fault breaker. Is the refrigerator outlet the only one that is not working? ( take a circuit testor or voltage ( multimeter) and check as many outlets as you can to make sure.
Thanks for the responses! Had a friend who knew what he was doing come over.
I mentioned having this problem twice... Replace outlets other things not working.
Simple fixes today.
1) ends up the fridge was downstream of the new outlets - and the downstream feed wire broke off in the receptacle when in pushed it back in. Fix that. Works as expected. Can't figure out why they used 10 gauge wire on a 15 amp circuit.
2) other room where I had a similar problem... Not exactly sure what caused the problem... He fixed it tho!
I worked with circuits off... He worked with them on (he's a formerly licensed contractor).
Thanks for the other tips...
Quote from: duncanshannon on August 13, 2011, 07:32:37 PM
I worked with circuits off... He worked with them on (he's a formerly licensed contractor).
Electricity kills the licensed, the formerly licensed and the totally unlicensed without discrimination.