Al and Robins 20x30 1 1/2 near Lake Eufaula, OK

[ajbremer]

Sunday Afternoon - June 24th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

I'll be attaching the porch joists to the house by way of a 2x12 rim-joist nailed against the existing 2x12 rim-joist that goes all the way around the house. I'll use joist hangers of course. I'm thinking that I'll drop down from the main floor 1"? Isn't that about right?

As far as me putting my roof sheets on, I'm ready...I think. I drew a scaled sheathing layout like was suggested from my "House Framing by John D. Wagner" book on page 150. My roof is 34 feet long by 162". I'm starting the sheets at the bottom where the transition point of the roof rafters meet the main rafters. I bought a bag of 50 'H' Panel Clips at Lowe's today for $5.95. I'll need one more bag before it's all over with.

I'm also going to leave at least a 3" horizontal gap at the top for the ridge vent, my sheets will not meet at the top. The way I figured it, I'll have to use 3/4 and 1/2 length sheets here and there in order to meet the length. Also, because of the 162" of roof I'll have to rip some sheets. You'll notice by my sketch below that the very top southern row will have to be ripped to 18" wide. The left over 30" will be used on the bottom row of the northern side. This also creates another ripping of the very top sheets at 36".

My sketch is pretty busy but I've tried to show everything, even the 'H' clips between each rafter at every seam. I googled for software that would show me the best cutting combinations for patterns of roof sheathing but couldn't find any.

I thought I would be jamm'in on my roof sheets this weekend but I guess I got lazy with this high 90 to 100 degree weather. I also didn't totally understand how I was going to lay my sheets down and I didn't want to get out there and just start slapping sheets down without doing some figuring in air-conditioned space.

So here tis, my graph paper sketch. If my 32 sheets of 5/8's laying here won't be enough then I'll just have to get a couple more, no biggie. Please let me know if I'm on the right track:

[CjAl]

your roof is 32' but you show 1/2 sheet, 3 full sheets and a 3/4 sheet. thats 34'.


why not star first row with 4 full sheets, next row cht a sheet in half and start with that half/ full/ full / full/ half. then the next row back to 4 full sheets?

[CjAl]

oops, nevermind. you said 34'. 



why did you decide on regular osb instead of tongue and groove, cost?

i dont understand why your north roof is broke down to 30" and 36" pieces. you should do it just like the south. or is it because you will have more overhange because of no porch?

[ajbremer]

I didn't even think about the tongue and groove thing C.

[CjAl]

if you kept your rear overhang to a foot then you could use three full rows and the remainder of the riped sheets from the top row on the other side.  save you a few sheets but would have mis mathced overhangs.

[CjAl]

your just gonna LOVE that 12/12 roof

[ajbremer]

Monday Morning - June 25th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

What a week to be up on a roof lifting and putting down sheets! Check out the next 7 day forcast:
(Pic coming soon)


I actually started to lay my sheets down yesterday, here's where I'm at:

[AdironDoc]

Seeing your satellite dish reminded me that I need to set up my antenna too. I bought my wood stove and bunk beds before I ever broke ground, and simply built a cabin around the stuff I had already had. I see you've been enjoying good programming as the walls of your camp go up around you. Great minds think alike! 

I saw some builders down south working on a roof a while back. It was blistering hot. They all had small umbrella hats! Later, maybe umbrella drinks as well.  Stay cool!

Doc

[CjAl]

depending on which way that storm turns you might be able to add some rain to that forcast.

do you have he sheets up on the loft? would think that would be easier then that ladder

[ajbremer]

Monday Morning (Still) - June 25th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Thanks for the posts guys, I'm out there right now putting up sheet #3, only about 30 or so more to go (for the main roof). I got my 3rd full sheet from the ground, up to the loft, then into position in less than 5 minutes, by hand carrying. (My massive muscular structure allows me to do things like this.) ...Hey, I'm only kidd'in. My arms are toothpicks but God gives me strength anyway.

I'm slipping the first row sheets up and through the rafters and onto nailed in stops. Not bad at all, time consuming, but not bad. I'll be setting things up a little differently for the 2nd row.

Ok, well, I'm getting back out there....thanks.

[ajbremer]

Monday Afternoon - June 25th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

K, done for today. Got row number one done of my roof sheathing.

The scaffold ladder undone and stretched out worked really good, it let me get up past the 15 foot mark on the outside of the house. I also nailed some boards in between a 2x12 so that it would trap the ladder legs and I hammered steel steaks in the ground so there would be no chance of the ladder slipping out from under me. Also, I tied a strap around my waist and to a rafter for a home made safety harness while I was moving and stretching around hammering up there.

You may notice the last sections of sheets to the right still have the stops at the bottom of them which were nailed to the rafters temporarily.

I also took a picture of the bag of 'H' panel clamps that I bought, just to show those people who may have never seen one.

Here's pics:

[ColchesterCabin]

Wow your build is starting to take tremendous shape. I like the way you plan everything out even down to the system to hold the ladder. I'm not only impressed but inspired. Myself personally I just think a little then do and in most cases sometimes have to redo, but that's how we learn sometimes as well.

[ajbremer]

Tuesday Morning - June 26th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Thanks for the post ColchesterCabin. I don't plan everything out and then not have to redo. I'm redoing all the time. I just hope that most ideas and ways of getting things done work the first time I try, many times it doesn't work the first time.

K Y'all: Today will be a challenge, I no longer want to manually lift the sheets into and up to the loft and then up and out between rafters. Since the first row is done now, things are too high to go up between rafters so I'll be lifting them up along the outside of the house, up and over the 1st row, then down and into the 'H' clips of the first row.

It's getting hot outside now so I had better get out there.

[CjAl]

this week the heat is brutal. be safe.

i couldnt find another load today so i am at home. will probly go place a lumber order for the lumber for my beams.

[pmichelsen]

I'll be attaching the porch joists to the house by way of a 2x12 rim-joist nailed against the existing 2x12 rim-joist that goes all the way around the house. I'll use joist hangers of course. I'm thinking that I'll drop down from the main floor 1"? Isn't that about right?

I would recommend using some type of spacer between your ledger and the rim joist, either the plastic deck2wall spacers http://www.screw-products.com/deck2wallspacer.htm or something similar. I would also recommend bolting it rather than just nailing it. I would also flash your ledger the top of your ledger making sure the flashing is behind your house wrap.

Finally the height of your ledger will depend on what your finish material will be and whether your entire deck will be covered. Hopefully some of this info helps.

[ajbremer]

Monday Morning Still - June 26th, 2012 @ 10:42am Mid-Oklahoma

Thanks pmichelsen, of course your information helps. My mind is so consumed with sheathing this roof that the deck stuff has taken a back seat for a little bit. But ya, I'll go back to your deck information as a reference time and again I'm sure. In fact, this makes me want to do that little database that I spoke of in previous posts. One where very informational posts are kept under topics and subjects. Thanks a ton!

Ok, I've been out there this morning and am going right back out but I had to come in to post pics of how I'm getting my second row on. Basically, manually pulling them up 45 degree rails from the top using 2 straps, the straps that came bundled around all of those loads of wood that were delivered from the lumber company that I use. First I used top poles of an old chain link fence and each of them are around 20' long.

As you can see from the pictures, I anchored the poles at the ground by way of steaks and pieces of wood so that they wouldn't slip. Then I leaned the top of them on my blocking and against the rafters. I used clamps on the sheets and tied onto there. Then I got up at the top and on top of the staging that I made and pulled them up from there. Once the sheet goes over the installed sheet, it drops into place and gravity holds it there (if there is no wind).

What I'll do now is slide that sheet down and bring up another one, then slide those sheets down and bring up another one, etc., etc.

Here's the pictures and now I got to go back out there:

[suburbancowboy]

Do you have a pulley at the top of your rope?  If you could have your wife pull the rope while you direct the osb in place it could make things much easier.  This is very similar to what we did.  One or two people attaching the rope to the osb(Wife and kid).  One person pulling rope, and one or two placing and attaching the osb to the trusses.

[ajbremer]

Monday Night - June 26th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Got a little of the second row done, it was above 100 degrees!

[ajbremer]

Wednesday Morning - June 27th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

It'll be another very hot day so I'm trying to get out there as early as possible to put roof sheathing on.

Deck building and the porch roof will be in the near future and that leads me to a question that I have about this tree stump within my building area. In the picture above, the one showing the beginnings of the 2nd row of sheeting, you'll notice a fairly large tree stump barely protruding out of the ground right in front of the build on the right side. It's actually right in front of the letter 'm' where the house wrap says the word 'improving' - it kind of looks like a rock.

Well, that tree stump is in the way of where I want to put my corner deck/porch post. I could go one side or the other a little further, or I could even make the porch 12' instead of 10' wide and that would give me a digging spot. BUT I'm not sure if it's ok to leave an old stump under the porch. Do stumps and/or their roots continue to grow or is it safe to leave it there?

The tree stump is probably about 18" in diameter and its center is about 6 feet from the wall. I'm wondering if I could cause movement to the pier(s) near roots from it if I try to get a machine in here to pull it out. I wonder if the movement of the roots could shift things around the pier soil. Should I leave it, should I get it out of there? I've seen where people burn stumps but I'm not sure if that's a safe thing being so close to the house.

Ya, I know I probably should have gotten rid of it before I even started the build but back then I didn't realize that it may become a problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[AdironDoc]

I'm planning a 12x12 shed with very tall walls but always wondered how I'd pull the plywood sheets up if I took on a roof project myself. Great idea with the poles. I have a portable winch but your method practically lays them right in place. Bravo! My back thanks you in advance. 

[CjAl]

i think you need to pull it al. it will rot and the ground wiwll move.

if you have a chain saw plunge it straight down the middle, pull it out and turn it 90 degrees and plunge it down again. pour kerosene in the hole and start it on fire. do this when someone will be there a few days to keep an eye on it.

meanwhile start digging aroundbit to expose as much of the roots as you can and start a fire.on the outside too.

[ajbremer]

Wednesday Night - June 27th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

My first time ever on a roof!

I was very careful and I did tie a strap around my waist and tried to have the strap in hand most of the time. It really wasn't all that bad. You would never want to wear sneakers up there though. I was wearing my steel toes from work.

I've got the first 2 rows up now. Here's pictures:

[CjAl]

since you will shingle might i suggest you invest in about a dozen roof jacks

[ajbremer]

Thanks for reminding me of that CjAl.

I shall buy some of these tomorrow!

http://www.lowes.com/pd_59289-287-ARB10-10_0__?productId=3036270&cm_mmc=SCE_gps-_-gps-_-gps-_-Werner%20Ladder%20Steel%20Adjustable%20Roof%20Bracket&CAWELAID=1367992346

[Don_P]

Al, I agree, lose the stump, all of it. Aside from subsidence as it decays the recyclers smell the food and then the house begins to look like dessert.

Let's hope the man isn't reading, here's another way to run that safety line. Lash it to the ridge. Tie webbing around you rather than rope if at all possible. Then google "prussic knot", the prussic is attached to the safety line and it's loop is attached to your harness. Now you can slide the prussic up and down along the safety line to remove all that slack. If you fall the prussic binds and holds, a very common safety when rock climbing, I used to use one as a backup on rappels. When you set it up have the rope dangling down to the floor inside and prove it will work in there, cinch it up tight and then fall and make sure it'll lock up with the ropes you have.

All I wear is sneakers up there, but I also have steel toed sneakers. I was at PT the other day and she told me the doc has cleared me for light weights. I said that sounded good cause I was 30' up flashing a chimney a few days ago and some more strength would be just fine  . We buried 2 stainless hooks up on the chimney cap and I lashed into them. We have also stuck eyebolts high out of gable end walls and dormers before as well. A tie point if someone is painting or whatever. As I get older I tend to tie off more, the realization that my bounce is gone, I just go crunch