Hi everyone.
I have been reading alot of the posts here and want you to know how helpful it has been.
There is alot of great ideas on the Country Plans site! I used many of them for my plans.
I am about to start building a small shed/cabin on my property in central Texas.
I have modified several designs. Then finally decided on my plan.
First, I based my plan on this design I got on the net:
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/16x20.jpg)
I bought these plans on the net and used them also:
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Cw96Sk.jpg)
After many designs and changes I came up with Phase 1 plans. Phase 2 will include a shed roof porch and bump out....much later, lol.
My basic Phase 1 plans look like this:
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/12x16Base1.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/12x16Base2.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/12x16Base3.jpg)
I hope the plans look good to everyone.
Where I am building no permits or inspections are required. Only approval from a deed restriction office, which has already been given. :)
Tomorrow I buy and haul crushed rock for the post holes.....Wish me luck! lol
It's great to get a project going, isn't it!! :D :D
The only thing I question is with the 2x8 beams and floor joists. It appears you have the beams secured to the sides of the posts. I've built decks like that; no problems. However I wonder if that is the best way to build even a small cabin. Beams placed on top of the posts will be much stronger. On the side means everything is held up by the shear strength of the fasteners. Maybe it's just me but I prefer the beams on top of post method. You can build the beams up from 2x8's.
If you used 2x8 #2 or btr for floor joists you could dispense with the center beam. You could also move the 2 outside beams together a foot or so. John's Little House plans do that. It actually stiffens the floor and means you don't have to be quite as precise in locating the posts. If they are off a little it's okay as you square the floor up at the joist layer.
And being as conservative as I am, I'd use more posts down the sides, where the weight of the building will be mainly concentrated. But again, that may just be me.
Just some thoughts. :D :D
Hmmm, more to think about...Thanks Don. lol, I think anyways.
I could change the floor support posts and put them under the center beam, That would be easy.
And I thought about adding 1 post to each side wall, but when I do add the porch and bump out, I felt it might just be overkill. Still could do that tho. I'll keep thinking about it.
Oh yeah, I meant to add one more pic. The site. looking west:
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/01-03-2009024.jpg)
Quote from: Abbynrml on January 23, 2009, 10:23:01 PM
And I thought about adding 1 post to each side wall, but when I do add the porch and bump out, I felt it might just be overkill. Still could do that tho. I'll keep thinking about it.
FYI, John's plans in the Little House series (10'x 14', 12'x 18' and 14'x 24') use a 4x8 beam down each side, inset a bit as I mentioned. Each beam is supported by 4x4 posts at 4 foot spacing. That may be overkill; John is conservative in his plan specs, but he's been designing for years.
So more posts to begin with would be to err on the side of conservative design.
Adding a porch or a bumpout won't decrease the loads the main posts will be carrying. They will need their own supports.
Are you planning on a loft?
How much land do you have? Looks like you have a lot of trees. :D
Good points!
No loft is planned. Too narrow and only 4 ft high.
I bought just under 1 1/2 acres. When I build my house, in several years, I intend to buy the land next door. That would make it almost 3 acres. Plenty for me.
And yes there are alot of trees....Oaks, cedar, pecan, and tons of yaupon and vines.
The latter two will be removed, in time. lol
I dont believe it has ever been cleared. Man what a job that is.
I agree with Don. It will make things stay put better.
I know all about clearing land. We've spent countless hours clearing fallen tress, weeds and skinny trash trees. Some day we might be finished. ;)
My crushed rock is at the site. Actually about 30 ft. away.
$20, done deal, and can pick up a bit more if I need it later to finish.
The guy also had 13 tons of the stuff for $370, or milled asphalt for $270.
I need this for the driveway, but that can still wait.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/CrushedRock.jpg)
Still looking at the plans and thinking. If I add one post to each side wall the math gets flakey. If I add 2 posts to each side, its totally simple. I am a simple man, lol. So, 2 more posts will be used. Putting the side wall posts at 4 ft O.C.
I dont want to notch the 4x4 posts for the beams. I could add a simple 2x4 block under the beams.
Any thoughts on this?
Quote from: Abbynrml on January 24, 2009, 06:01:07 PM
I dont want to notch the 4x4 posts for the beams. I could add a simple 2x4 block under the beams.
Any thoughts on this?
I don't follow that. With a 4x4 post you can sit a 4x8 or a built up beam from two - 2x8 on top of the post.
Looking for a picture that shows what I mean.
Courtesy of 'considerations'
(https://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk265/considerations/20080530001.jpg)
Abbynrml:
Are you the same Abbynrml that is on the Spad Forum? If so, it's a small world.
No, not from another forum, just loved the movie Young Frankenstein, and use Abbynrml for my internet names, hehe
I would have done like that if I balloon framed the shed. However I am using the pole barn type frame. The side wall posts go to the top plate. 12'
The end wall posts go to the ridge beams. 16'
I will use center floor supports that hold the beams, and add a single 2x8 to the top of the floor support post being under the joists. 2x4 blocks added to the posts under the beams. That should do the trick. ;D
I should add that after the posts are set, top plates added, and floor joists and sub floor done. I can do the roof complete and enclose the walls last.
No exposed wall framing waiting on the roof to be done. I really like that idea, because it will take me awhile to get to that point.
I am doing everything by myself. Paid in full as I go.
Oooooooooooh! That part wasn't clear to me. :-[
OK, now I have the final Phase 1 plans revised, probally not the last time either.
Hope these pics make it clear to everyone.
Any suggestions or comments are appreciated.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Base1.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Base2.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Base3.jpg)
The 2x4 blocks will be worth very little that way. If held with 1/2 inch bolts, each bolt in each block is only good for about 450 lbs due to wood fiber stress. If you dont want to set your beams on top of the 4x then the 2x4 blocks shoud be foundation grade and go clear down to the bottom of the footing, however if you just put your beams in top of the piers as shown above, they the 2x4's would not be required at all.
hmmm, ok. I didnt really think the 2x4 blocks would help much. Thanks for the input on it. I guess they are rather useless. Sure dont need that then.
Once again I'll state that it is based on a pole frame design, not home framing.
Correct me if I am wrong, but, the pole/posts actually support the whole structure. The floor only needs to support itself and the weight of any contents in the building.
With 5 supports on each side wall, 2 ridge posts, 3 center supports, headers, and girts to brace it all. Surely the beams would be fine.
If you dont think so, How would you support the floor in a pole frame design?
Notch the poles for a ledger board?
I feel that with my skills, the notches would only weaken the posts.
A craftsman with better skills than mine could probally do that. However I dont think I should. lol, just being honest. I have limited woodworking skills. :-[
If you are going to use a circular saw that is all it takes. Measure the offset of you saw plate to the blade. Set the depth of cut on your saw. Measure on either side of the actualy cut area to the offset meaurement. Clamp a board on that line. Keep the saw foot plate against the board on the offset line. Then just make multiple saw kerfs until the area you want to place your ledge is gone. You really only need to clamp to make the upper and lower cuts. The rest can be done freehand. Clean the area with a chisel and you are set. You should not loose any strength as the ledger will just replace the amount of material that was removed. If you have ever used a combination square you can actually use it to square your cuts allowing the saw foot to ride against the square.
This should be done after all your post are set and an accurate level is established on all your post. Don't attempt to pre-cut in the ledger and then set the post. Chances are that they will not come out level.
What Redoverfarm is real easy to do and would make the building much stronger. I would suggest getting some scrap pieces of wood and practicing cutting notches on it so you get the idea and see how easy it is. The easiest way I found to set the blade depth is to get lay the material on the bottom of the saw and set the blade even with it.
Taylor
Good suggestions, I appreciate the input!
I'd like to describe some of my thoughts leading to this design.
First I picked the pole frame design because it would allow me to build the walls last, putting a roof on very early in the construction. The problem I encountered was adding a floor to it. I checked on having a slab poured for this, but at $1200-1800 it doubles the cost of the project. OUCH! Way over my budget.
Anyway, I looked at adding a wood floor to avoid the concrete costs, but that just set in a whole new set of problems. And I really appreciate everyones thoughts. Honestly I think that everyones advice will save me from making a terrible mistake.
Thank you!!!
I want to build this, but I dont want to just slap it together. I'd like it to last awhile.
Now I am going to rethink the slab...but without having it done.
I would like to still use the pole frame design, but inplace of the wood floor do a slab.
But.. a slab made from soil/cement. I have been reading up on it.
Seems its best done with a sandy soil and the soil at my site is very sandy. I have not found clay or rock yet.
The info I have found says that a mix of as little as 6/1 is best for clay. And mix of 16/1 with sand.
Couldn't I split the difference and go with a 10/1 sandy soil/portland cement mix?
I could set the posts first, do the roof, then do the slab and walls. Remember, its a pole frame, the slab will not be supporting the building.
Perhaps even cover the soil/cement floor with a plywood subfloor. I did read that the mixtures do tend to crack some. But here in Texas all the slabs crack sooner or later anyway, so what the heck, I think I could do a 6 inch slab for alot less, only cost would be some frame boards and the portland cement.
A 12x16x6 inch slab would take 160 80lb bags of concrete mix. I could instead buy 16-20 sacks of portland cement and use the soil on site. Oh, and rent a mixer.
Quote from: Abbynrml on January 27, 2009, 07:11:13 PM
A 12x16x6 inch slab would take 160 80lb bags of concrete mix.
That's the expensive DIY way to make concrete. I like the bagged mix for small projects like doinf a few footings.
For something like a slab or a driveway you can buy the Portland cement and either get sand and gravel separately or pre mixed. At least around here I can get a sand and gravel mix for pretty much the same cost as sand and gravel separate. Something to think about, although doing it in a small mixer is a lot of work for even a 12 x 16 slab.
run a google search for cob floors. sand, clay, and straw (might not have the straw in floors, I dont know). It might be just the ticket, all natural, and mostly free!
Use the floor from India that I use - jute landscape erosion control fabric -plunger piers- about 1/2 inch of cement - it's detailed in the Underground Cabin Update. I have to work today -rest of the week out of town or I'd locate it - perhaps others will.
What the heck - here's a couple
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.msg7536#msg7536
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=814.msg6001#msg6001
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=2838.msg29853#msg29853
The erosion control netting works better than the chicken wire. Do it in two layers on the cement - I suggest adding the fibermesh available at the bigger ready mix companies about $6 or so.
Will everyone please notice...:o Glenn is getting up at 5:13 am at the start of a long series of workdays to answer questions for forum members before he leaves.
I couldn't (and don't) pay him enough to do this. He does it for free.
Thats very interesting. More to think about.
Thank you Glenn for the advice!
My pleasure.
I was just a bit upset when younger that it was likely our kids would never be able to afford their own houses so I just wanted to do as much as I could to help everybody beat their own little part of the system. :)
Thanks to the rest who contribute their time also.
...and thanks for a place to share ideas, John. :)
Ok, heres the latest set of ideas/plans for my shed/cabin. Its a pole frame design that is set on precast piers. I think this will be the best combination of ideas for me.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/scan0001.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/scan0002.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/scan0003.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/scan0004.jpg)
I got a bit more done today. Batter boards and strings set. rough post locations marked. A big tree limb was removed from overhead the site. And I got 6 of the precast piers onsite. Whew, I'm beat. But happy. ;)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/02-7-2009023.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/02-7-2009014.jpg)
A close up of the piers and my vast tool collection... :P
1 of the buckets is stuck on the concrete pier. If it does not come loose, I will have to cut it off. 5 came right off. so I can reuse them for the last set of 6 piers.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/02-7-2009020.jpg)
I'd like to add this. Theres a tree that needs to come down. The top is dead.
I am going to have it sawn into 1x4s. I figure about 1500 board feet in this tree, enough to do the inside of the shed. All 100 yr old post oak. A local sawmill quoted me 50 cents a board foot.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/02-7-2009024.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/02-7-2009025.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/02-7-2009026.jpg)
I don't know about other places, but around here you can buy rough cut lumber for under 40 cents a foot, so 50 cents for your own tree sounds kinda high...
Also, I apologize to Glenn for missing an opportunity to cheer for him. :) Maybe we need to start a Glenn appreciation thread.. ;)
Local mills in this area usually charge $150 a thousand to saw.
I guess I need to shop around some more for a sawmill.
I got the other 6 piers poured and drying in the buckets right now.
Next trip they will go to the site.
That's a pretty slick footing system you came up with. Did you reinforce the concrete with anything or just puor it in the bucket?
I just poured it in. I thought of adding a rebar on the hook, but didnt.
Quote from: Ernest T. Bass on February 07, 2009, 10:52:04 PM
I don't know about other places, but around here you can buy rough cut lumber for under 40 cents a foot, so 50 cents for your own tree sounds kinda high...
Also, I apologize to Glenn for missing an opportunity to cheer for him. :) Maybe we need to start a Glenn appreciation thread.. ;)
Gimme a break, Andrew. [waiting]
I'm slowly depreciating.... there is no need... rofl
Pricing on th e sawmill is probably a bit regional or even per operator. Here our local one gets $1.00 per BF for his lumber - more than HD or Lowes. He sold me logs at estimated .40 per bf to cut on my own mill. I also would want $1 around here as I don't want to cut for others much. I will let Whitlock use my saw. He trades me work, and is familiar with that type of work as he ran a mill in the past, but I don't trust many around it.
Well the sawmill can wait awhile. I have a bunch to do before I worry about the inside.
I did get a fair deal today.
I got 7 nice storm windows and a lawnmower for $150.
2 small, 1 a bit bigger, 2 medium, and 2 bigger, all under 3 ft wide.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/windows2.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/windows1.jpg)
Ahhh -- great ... the pile of unnatural resources begins. :)
I had planned on breaking ground today. However the weather did not agree.
50% chance of rain. So, I plan on going tomorrow.
Here is my footing/foundation layout plan. Does it look good?
I want to get the holes dug, rock packed in, and precast piers set in the holes.
I will fill the holes with the soil cement mix after I get the frame set in place.
I also decided I need to redo the string layout. I am going to swing the cabin to about 15 degree off of north. That will give me a more southeast view from the site.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/scan0005.jpg)
Well, guess I'm in trouble. I'm over budget and behind schedule.
Got the strings redone and set the 4 corner piers. Turned out to be a beautiful day.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/02-22-2009011.jpg)
That's still normal. :)
Another beautiful day. I got a bit more done. :)
Only 3 more piers to set. Got the outline set up in pressure treated 2x6's.
Everything is square and almost dead level.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/2009-02-28021.jpg)
Will the crawlspace be a bit tight?
No crawl space. Plan on gravel/crushed stone to fill then a soil cement floor.
Also think I will put landscape stone around the edge to give it a stone slab look.
At the lowest point it is 2 1/2" to the ground. 8 1/2" at the highest. Fill with the stone and pour the soil cement for the last 1 1/2". Using a jute mat as a barrier between the two. Allowing the stone to act as a french drain to carry water/rain away.
The piers will support the posts for the pole frame. So I will do the floor/slab after the roof is on.
Cool - an alternative floor. I see we talked about alternatives a bit earlier. d*
We find the soil cement to be a bit soft and chips a bit easily. Maybe you could up the cement content a little. I'll be interested in your formula you use. Thanks.
I got a little bit more done today.
However, I'm afraid I broke a major rule.
I forgot the camera. d*
Anyway got the last of the piers set.
Next time I need to drop that tree thats at the site.
Not much done today, but I did enjoy watching the birds, butterflies, and clouds.
I spent half the time there today just goofing off.
That's half the fun and an important part of it.
After 58 1/2 years (and counting) I now think that just sitting and observing is sometimes the best that we can do
it can be remarkably productive
(this is usually understood after much time passes)
Today I rented a trailer for almost $50. Then loaded a huge pile of pressure treated lumber on it and loaded the bed of my truck with the 2x4s.
Hauled it to the site and unloaded it all, then returned the trailer, then filled my bed up again with the last load of 2x4s.
I found an ad on craigslist for the wood. It was a walkway trellis in a nice townhome complex, about 5 miles away. All total, I bet I drove 200 miles today and moved 4000 pounds of treated wood. I got 32 4x6 posts, probally 10 2x10s, 25 2x6s, and 200 2x4s. Almost all the nails were removed by the seller. Wonderful deal, all of it for $180. So, plus the $50, its $230. Some will need to be cleaned up and all, but most everything I bought is in good condition. I guess 3 years old. Some tags still, wolminzed (sp) above ground contact on the 2x6s, and .4 on the 4x6 posts.
All I need to buy is the ridge boards and rafters and my frame will be ready to go up.
Oh and dont want to forget and tell you, how beat I am!!! LOL, goodnight..I need the icy hot and bed after a long hot shower.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/ptwoodc.jpg)
That was a great deal. You have to take advantage of the deals when they are there. If passed up they will be gone. A bit of snap decision making. :)
Heres a couple of pics of the wood I got. Got it all stacked and sorted.
Also bought a chainsaw. A McCulloch Timber Bear 610. Not new, probally an early 80's model. So now I hope to down that tree that was hit by lightening.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/100_0237.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/100_0236.jpg)
Got a bit more done this weekend. Cut the limb above the shed site and dropped the tree that needed to come down. Also burned a little, alot more to burn tho.
Got the 3 piers set in place for the porch. There is a 1 1/2 inch drop in the elevation where I plan to slope the 6 foot wide porch floor, to allow rain/water to run off.
After measuring the wood I got I easily have enough to do the porch framing now.
So the porch will be included now instead of adding it later. My neighbor offered to give me enough tin to do the exterior and roof, all I have to do is remove it from an old shed he has. I might just use enough for the roof on mine and put siding up still as planned. Not to sure what to do. Any thoughts on the use of the old style wavy tin as roofing and/or siding for my shed? Geez, free is not bad!
I use the old corrugated wherever I can -- makes stuff look historic.
Whats the best way to attach the used tin?
I doubt that all the old holes will line up, so how do i plug the old holes?
Does a tin roof need to be grounded?
I was not planning on using purlins, only osb. But maybe I should use the radiant barrier board. I'm confused. Whats the best way for the used tin?
Looking good. I always find that doing the foundation is one of the most fun parts of the project :)
Used Tin? I would put OSB, felt and then the tin. By using OSB rather than purlins you can put a screw into the original hole to seal it with the gasket of the screw. Yes they will probably all not be in line but with used it's hard to keep them straight. I would also use a roof sealer/paint to aid in sealing them off. Sealer by itself will probably not seal the vacant holes. If there are large holes(bigger than the screw heads) then cut a square patch, sealer and then screw to OSB in center. Like putting on a patch.
OK, thanks for the tip.
I still wonder about the grounding of a roof like this. Does it need grounding?
Does the foil faced OSB (barrier board) help much in insulating the shed?
I'm in Texas and it gets hot. I will need to insulate.
Whats the best and cheapest I could do?
Does a metal/tin roof need grounding?
Does the foil faced OSB (barrier board) help much in insulating the shed?
Any ideas for cheap insulation for the roof?
Foil can help with reflecting radiant heat energy. However to be effective it has to have an air space on the side the heat id coming from. That surface must always be clean and dust free as well. In theory it works, in practice it works less well.
I don't have any scientific proof, but to me it makes sense to ground a metal roof. Mine are.
As for insulation, where in the roof is it to be installed? in the faters or in a ceiling? For DIY batts or sheet foam are bout the only thing practical.
Thanks for the advise!
I kinda thought so about the foil. I think I'll just use the plain OSB.
As for the grounding of a metal roof, I agree 100%. Like you said, no proof, but it would make me feel better if it was grounded. Lightening is really serious stuff.
I want to leave the ceiling area open, so the batt insulation in the rafters is probally the way to go, just wondering about the options. Spray on and foam looks kinda pricey. With only 2x6 rafters, it won't be insulated real well, but better than nothing. I planned on 24" centers. Do the batts normally come that size? If not I kinda need to know and do something else.
You can find batts for 24" OC framing. You could also do a foam sandwich roof like this one from buildingscience.com (http://www.buildingscience.com/doctypes/primer) Re: the grounding; I used #6 AWG non insulated copper wire from diagonally opposite corners leading down to 8 foot copper clad ground rods like the ones used for grounding the electrical service.
(http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/primers/plonearticlemultipage.2006-11-17.6022614454/section-2-the-basic-hot-humid-climate-house/2006-11-17.8685962786)
I got a little more done this weekend.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed007.jpg)
Came back home to clean up and rest, then back again tomorrow.
Need to buy the wood for the top plates and ridge.
A few delays, a few problems, and alot of sweat and hard work, 6 days later this is where I am at....
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed002.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed006.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed009.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed013.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed014.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed015.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed023.jpg)
Looks like 6 productive days. :)
Coming right along.
Thanks guys. As you can see, I did not use the tin roof.
I shingled it instead. Its a very long story...but lets just say it is shingled.
I still really like the tin roof look, but shingles were the best option for several reasons.
I have a lot left to do, but now I can take a break. One day to rest up then its back to my real job. Gotta eat too you know. lol Oh, and need to save up some bucks for the rest of the materials.
One more thing. I hired 2 guys to do the roof. Best investment yet!
If anyone needs a good worker in College Station Texas area, I can hook you up with them. Very nice, honest, and hard working guys. I love them both like a brother! :)
This fall, if its not under too much ash, I am heading north to build a 12X16 on ten acres about 4 miles north of Anchor Point, AK. I was going to do the standard post and beam foundation and then stick frame it. However, this timber frame has my interest peeked. The question I have is, how will the floor go in? Is it going to be dirt, or will a sub floor go in later. I am new to the mythology, mysticism and magic of building, so a lot of this is new to me. I only have a few months before I start swinging a hammer and hope to look at all my options before I pick one a completely screw it up (which will probably happen no matter what design I choose, but I'll have fun doing it).
Any info you have would be appreciated.
Jay
For now the floor is dirt. I plan on doing a soil cement floor. It is like a slab only much cheaper and all done on site. I intend using portland cement and the soil that is on site. You simply mix the dry cement and soil together then wet it, not soak it just get it all wet. Like peanut butter. Then it dries into a hard "slab". Not as hard as concrete, but very durable. Research soil cement, cob floor, or poor man's concrete. :)
Another weekend and I got a bit more done.
Also returned the extra roofing materials.
It rained hard saturday morning. Sunday was beautiful.
Heres what it looks like now:
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed001.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed004.jpg)
Time is flying by. Last weekend of april, here's where I'm at now.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed023a.jpg)
I also rethought the loft idea. I added a 8 1/2 foot wide by 8 foot long hanging loft.
I used 2x4's 12" on centers. Then hung 2 2x6's under it for support.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed011.jpg)
Looks really cool!
I'll be watching , I'm also thinking of soil cement floor for our house. I like the idea of a dirt cheap floor that is strong but a bit softer on the feet then pure concrete.
have fun!
Peace
jeff
Looks good but you are carrying about 1/4 the loft load as a point load at the center of the ridge board. (Which is doubled).
I wouldn't store a ton of bricks up there, ;) but it should be fine for hay and such.
PS: You might want to reinforce the rafter to plate connections for at least the immediate rafters that will transmit that point load from the ridge. Use straps or anchor plates that lock the rafter against outward thrust.
Thanks for the kind words.
I intend on using some straps to tie the rafters into the top plates and posts.
Kind of like the hurricane tie down straps that are sold.
I have several feet of very heavy metal banding material, I will cut and nail it in next time. Attach to rafter, twist, attach to inside of top plate, twist, then attach to post.
What kind of weight limit do you think the loft would hold?
I am thinking 400 lbs or less.
I had 200 lbs on it overnight, no problem and no shake.
That's cute.
I like the fact that there isn't a hinge point like you'd have with a short post under a floor beam, the walls can stabilize the posts.
I hope you're open to a couple of suggestions. You can pick up more wall rack bracing if there is at least one X braced bay in each wall. We get the same effect nowadays normally with plywood or osb on at least the corners of a building but the old timers either let in or framed in "wind bracing". Sliding in a sheet between posts on the inside and securing it to the horizontal girts well would do it too. Also it looks like the top plates are 3 flatways 2x4's spanning about 4' and carrying the roof and part of the loft load. It is a small building but thats alot of work for flatways lumber to do and not sag over time. If you can sneak some headers under the plates on the bearing walls it'll strengthen that (it could be I'm not seeing it all clearly either). I look forward to your floor experiences.
Next weekend I will add the tie down straps then 2x6 braces under the top plates, set between the posts.
I had not intended on using x bracing. Do you think it is nessary?
I will wrap it with tar paper then add siding, but thats not until june.
Hopefully, the trees will break enough of any winds until then.
Also it is open, so the wind will go thru.
On the inside I will add insulation, thinking of foam board, then just paint it. Leaving the 4x6 posts half exposed on the inside.
Abbynrml:
I don't think 400 lbs in the loft would be a problem. Your suggested addition of straps will help a lot.
If you tell me the total length of your ridge beam, its real size and the point along its length that the load is hung then I can run a quick calculation to see if I can get an estimate for you on the loft load.
As to your second question about lateral bracing. In short you don't have much. You do have a sturdy roof diaphragm, which means that in hurricane force winds the roof would likely stay together long enough to exert enough force to push over the walls. :P It also looks like you are well protected by trees, which probably means the place will be lost to a falling tree before it blows apart. :D :D :D
All lovely thoughts, of course. But better to think them while you are still building.
If you are going to turn this into living space sometime in the future, then you will want to brace the walls with something more than open horizontal boards and probably clear a tree or two on the windward side. Personally, I would keep it as a covered corral or shed - it's built fine for that use.
The ridge beam is two 2x8's 18 foot long out of southern yellow pine. Is is set on 4x6 posts that are 16 foot apart. The loft is hung at the center of the ridge and at the end wall. A 8 foot span.
Doing a quick Calc on the load at the hanging support gives a safe load of around 500 lbs. The total loaded weight for the entire loft could be higher as not all the weight is carried by the ridge beam.
NOTE: An engineer would look at more issues such as the hanger hardware and the peak roof load which I have not considered. So don't take this as an engineered solution. ;)
Awesome!
Thank you John!!
and the disclaimer is noted. ;)
I intend using this as a shed. I will work and camp out of it as I prepare the land for a home. I intend building a home in several years, in the same style as this shed.
This is kind of a test run.
Did not get alot done this weekend. I did get the 2x6 braces added under the top plates. Got 2 windows framed in, but then ran out of 1x4s to finish with. I tried attaching the tie down straps, but realized I need a punch to make a hole. I bent 6 nails just getting 2 holes in the heavy banding straps I am using.
Next time I will take a punch and try again.
It rained saturday morning for an hour just before daylight and again sunday morning. I gave up and came home early. Always next week, hopefully it will go better then.
Another weekend, I cut it short because mothers day is tomorrow.
Got three walls ready for siding, next time I'll finish the last one.
Got the x bracing in and the tie down straps added.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed007-1.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed008.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed009-1.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed016.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed018.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed019.jpg)
The unnatural resourses are getting smaller...
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed013-1.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed014-1.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed015-1.jpg)
Just got another deal off craigslist.
I got about 100 sheets of styro foam.
1/2" thick and 2'x3'. The guy said he has more too.
Hope he remembers to save my email and let me know when I can get it.
It was packing for the end caps from a store rack.
I will put this up on the shed for insulation.
Got the styrofoam hauled to the site. We also burned alot of the cut brush this weekend. If I can keep it mowed it should start looking nicer.
Here is a pic of the supplies on site as of today.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/shed005.jpg)
Very wet weekend this time.
Oh well, still got alot done.
My dad and I went up and burned alot of the brush.
Rain kept putting out the fire, well slowed the fire down anyway.
But still we got alot of the cut brush burned.
That was a good thing. Had fun too. My dad is amazing. He out worked me all day saturday. Maybe next time we can finish burning and mow it all.
That will make it look nicer.
Well, spent friday burning and cleaning up.
Here is what it looks like now.
Much better for fire safety.I hope I never get as close to a fire as Don did.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic003.jpg)
The place is looking awesome! I can't remember the beginning of the thread, and forgive me for being too lazy to read all the pages but, are you using pallet lumber? I have found, that some welding shops get their sheet goods on 10 foot long pallets, that use either 4x4 or 2x3 (dimensional) skids. I got one made of oak, and another made of poplar (I think). Ask them first, but in my area at least, they'll let me take a couple here and there.
Thanks Jens.
I copied this from my earlier post:
I found an ad on craigslist for the wood. It was a walkway trellis in a nice townhome complex. All total, I guess about 4000 pounds of treated wood. I got 32 4x6 posts, probally 10 2x10s, 25 2x6s, and 200 2x4s. Almost all the nails were removed by the seller. Wonderful deal, all of it for $180. Some will need to be cleaned up and all, but most everything I bought is in good condition. I guess 3 years old. Some tags still, wolminzed (sp) above ground contact on the 2x6s, and .4 for ground contact on the 4x6 posts.
Well I am having second thoughts about going this weekend.
The forecast reads like this:
Saturday: Mostly sunny and hot, with a high near 99. Heat index values as high as 108. South wind around 10 mph.
Saturday Night: Partly cloudy, with a low around 77. South wind around 10 mph.
For sure wont get much done during the afternoon. :-\
I went after all. It was hot. Burned abit more and sawed up a slab of oak to use for a bench.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic018.jpg)
On the way home I pass a church, somehow this just isn't right.
Bet they have trouble finding an alter boy!
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic019.jpg)
I thought it said "Goy Hill" at first, which totally would've made sense, but Gay Hill is even better!
Once again I have changed plans.
I intended to use a soil cement floor, but now I will do a wood floor instead.
The more research I did changed my mind. Seems most people have found that the alternative just does not hold up for long term use. And I already have enough wood to frame it all. I will only need to buy the subfloor decking. As others have pointed out, my crawlspace is only a few inches. I think that a roll of tarpaper between the joists and subfloor would help keep the floor dry. Any suggestions or comments??
A few pics from yesterday, got a little done, but not much. It was too hot to stay and work all day. It was 102F, with the heat index added it felt like 105. I about melted. LOL
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic001.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic003-1.jpg)
go to www.southernpine.com and download the permanent wood foundations pdf. I remember near the end of it they had details for treated wood floors on grade.
I got half decked on the 4th of july. lol
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic003-2.jpg)
2 more weekends and now almost all decked. Only 2 more sheets to cut and fit on the porch.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic004.jpg)
Got a bit more done on the shed. All decked finally. ;D
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic005.jpg)
Got all the windows in finally and finished caulking the floor.
Also framed a double door and covered it temporaily with some leftover plywood.
The siding is next.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/edited.jpg)
seems to be a never ending list of stuff to do next....
What are you going to side it with. I kinda like the look of it now, looks like something from a western.
Quote from: Mike 870 on July 26, 2009, 06:25:20 PM
What are you going to side it with. I kinda like the look of it now, looks like something from a western.
Thats the million dollar question.
I still have not decided what to use.
Cost will be the main factor.
I want good and cheap, any suggestions on what I should do anybody?
Went to the property this weekend and spent some more time clearing.
Did not get anything done to the shed this time.
Still looking and thinking about the siding options.
Any suggestions?
Look's like the perfect setup for B&B, board and batten. You have plenty of horizontal "girts" to nail to. Usually its done with 1x10's or 1x8's with 1x2 or 1x3 battens over the vertical joints.
Another variation is board and board, I like it with 1x10 boards with a 6"gap and 1x8 "battens". Fill the gap with 1x4's cut to 6" long where you are going to nail the 1x8.
I agree with Don on the B&B. I used 1X8 w/ 1X2 batten strips which I beveled the outer edge. You might want to wrap the outside to protect your support lumber before installing the B&B if you go that route.
I have 3 1/2 rolls of 15 lb roofing paper for the wrap.
Looked at the siding materials prices and think that all of it is too much $.
Ouch that stuffs all high priced. Maybe I will just use CDX plywood.
I can put the 1x2 strips at 12" and it will look like the board and batten.
Then apply alot of paint.
Paint's not all that cheap. I spent $200 painting a shed that i thought i was saving money on by using t1-11. Your idea will work fine if you use and exterior rated plywood. We have a museum here in town that did that for a board and batten look and it sill looks good over 30 years later.
I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with Abbynrml. I was thinking of doing the same fake board and batten look with the plywood and 1x2's.
Using 1x for the whole thing does ad up to a LOT of money!
I wish I had a pic of the outfitter lodge I saw in northern Minnesota. They used the log siding stuff for the bottom 3-4 foot and then plywood with 1x2 battens above that. It wasn't painted, and actually looked VERY cool. Looked a lot more high dollar than what I'm guessing it cost. [cool]
I managed to find a couple of pics of the lodge online.
Here's the exterior showing the log siding and the plywood B@B look.
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/adbeavers/DSCF2166.jpg)
Here's a closer photo of the B@B plywood look. Pretty damn cool IMO! [cool] [cool] [cool]
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/adbeavers/sawbillbb.jpg)
I like the board and a Batten that I did the gable ends of my screen house with.
I bought the 10" wide broads for $.60 per foot.
Makes for a low cost siding.
(https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/loonlakebound/DSCF2783.jpg)
New land owner:
I really like your screen house. It is looking really nice! The board and batten looks great too. All of it does. You should be proud!
Beavers:
That is what I was thinking of. I wonder if I could even use the osb board? It is about half of the price of the plywood.
ScottA:
I agree, good paint is not cheap. And I believe thats about the only thing I wont try and cut costs on. A couple of coats of good paint will be required. hmmm, maybe I can find some on craigslist, lol.
Redoverfarm and Don_P:
Thanks for the board and batten input. Good idea. :)
Abbynrml if there was one product that I WOULD NOT put on the exterior that would be OSB. It will not stand up exposed to the elements whether it is painted or not. They do make a new product that imitates the old pressboard but has a moisture barrier but I believe it will be expensive as well. I think it is something similar to this
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=55897-132-27874&lpage=none
OK, thanks Redoverfarm. I was afraid the osb may not hold up well. I appreciate your honesty.
Went up today and got the double door frame finished and cleared more around the shed. There is about a 30 foot area cleared all the way around now.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic009.jpg)
I built a quick 'n dirty shed at my old house about 25 years ago, with 2X2 framing, and OSB. It was uglier than a bus load of mother-in-laws, but it's still standing! That being said, I wouldn't use it on anything other than a temporary building, or unless you were able to cover it with siding at a later date.
Went today and got the rafter tails on. Next time I'll do the facia and maybe frame and hang the single door. Didn't get much done in the heat.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic006.jpg)
Another heat advisory....decided not to go this weekend. Its just too hot to get much done. The heat index is forecasted to be 106. A long weekend coming up soon, I hope to get more done then. Hopefully it will be a bit cooler.
It was a bit cooler after all today. Still got hot but I stayed at it for 8 hrs.
Got the west side tar papered and siding attched. Need to add more nails but my arm gave out on me. Did start with deck screws and the nailing with 6D ring shanks every foot.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic004-1.jpg)
Great weekend. Spent saturday night and finished the siding on 3 sides now.
Primer is next, then I'll finish the siding on the porch side. Want to get the plywood primed next weekend.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic017.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic011.jpg)
Strange weather, we went from extreme drought to flooding. The whole area is under flood watch. Cant prime the wood in the rain. Looks like there has been at least 3 inches of rain in 24 hrs at the shed. More to come today. And raining there right now.
And a coworker has tested positive for the flu, and I think I got it now also. Needless to say I'm not going to get anything done this weekend. Oh well, we needed the rain badly, and I need to get over this before working on the shed. Hopefully next weekend will be better. :(
got the H1N1?! hope you feel better soon.
Thank you for the well wishes. It must have helped. I am feeling a bit better today. Still sick, but better.
As for the h1n1, maybe it was. I did get an urge to go roll in the mud after all the rain last weekend. :D ok, just kidding.
Got the 3 sides completely sided-sheathed. Put on 2 coats of primer. And got the door hung. We had over 5 inches of rain last weekend, the plywood got wet and warped some. I am going to get a box of deck screws and pull it all down flat again. My dad and I really knocked it out, we got alot done, I'm beat!
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic005-1.jpg)
Looking good. [cool]
I'm about ready to attempt to finish the gable vents.
Got galv hardware cloth, metal window screen, pressure treated 1X4's, staples and screws. Wish me luck. Its a new area for me. ???
The gable vents are in and primed. Added screen to the windows.
Also added a big box of screws to pull down the siding.
The old drill is still smoking.
Looks better now. :)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic009-1.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic006-1.jpg)
very cool! [cool]
I've checked the pics through your various stages? sorry if this has been asked but are you insulating?
I have a lot of foam to install on the ceiling, but for now the walls only have 2xs and tar paper.
Hope to add insulation there later. For now, I'm still trying to get the outside done.
I can do the inside after it gets cold and rainy this winter.
Worked friday and saturday morning this week.
Got the roof trim all done on 3 sides, and primered.
I'm ready to paint them next.
Got rained out at noon, hope it doesnt mess up the primer.
It felt dry when I left.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic001-1.jpg)
Today I got 2 coats of paint on the shed. Still need to do the siding trim and paint it.
Also need to fix the turbine vent and then I will be finished with the ladder. Looking forward to that. Ladders are tough on this old fart. ;D
I'm beat but happy.
Here is a current pic.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic003-3.jpg)
Spent the weekend cleaning up construction debris and painted the trim thats already on. Added 2 posts on the porch and sealed the deck with watersealer.
Half of a big hickory and an oak fell down in the storm last week.
Luckly not on the shed.
Here is the current pic. Kind of dark, sorry.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic003-4.jpg)
We did some more cleanup this weekend. Burned some and mowed.
Also cut up a bunch of hickory to try and sell for BBQ wood.
Maybe I can sell enough to pay for the last of the materials I need to buy.
Saturday was beautiful, clouded up abit today.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic019-1.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic004-2.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic007.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic012.jpg)
Well, I'm sad to say that construction has stopped for now.
I am between jobs, again...thats twice this year.
Thanks Obama....So this is the hope and change he promised...
We hope to pay the bills and feed our family and
the change was our employment and class status. >:(
No more middle class in the USA, only rich or poor now as far as I can see. Strange how under Bush people were working, now unemployment is widespead and getting worse.
Anybody want to buy any firewood?
Not sure if this is a place to talk politics but surely you don't blame the current president for the mess left by the last one?
2 wars, housing and financial collapse are going to take a little longer than 10 months to fix.
Hope things look up for you soon.
Why don't you focus on the low-to-no cost stuff that you know you will want to do in the future, like painting or landscaping etc.
Best wishes Abbynrml on your current projects and the job/economics of your area. These adjustments have been a long time in the making and will not be solved by the snap of anybody's finger.
The more I read about long term (80-90 year) economic cycles, the less I think politicians have much to do with it.
Allow me to reply.
John: I agree, this wont be resolved with a snap of a finger. And that the politicans dont control economic cycles, but I think they do try to guide them. And right now we need help. We = the world, not just the USA. I guess thats the one world government idea. I dont think its an answer either, but looks like it could happen.
Mike: Exellent idea. Funny, because I already have a job offer for some painting to do. Might happen in a week. Thats a good thing. I like your positive attitude!
Osprey: I agree that it isnt all Obamas fault. However, I also think that he isnt doing much/enough to fix things. Nor do I believe it is Bushs fault either...I'm not sure who to blame. And I dont know who can fix it.
I wish I had the answers, but it seems no one can figure out this mess we are all in. It might not effect some as much as others, but everyone will be affected by it. I could go on and on, but I dont see how pointing fingers would help. I just want to see things start picking up.
And thanks to everyone for the best wishes. I'll be ok. Things will work out....
Sorry to hear about your job :( find some niche areas - things you can do that others can't or won't - that will widen your opportunities... Mike had some good ideas - I'm sure you've thought about a lot of stuff... makes it tough
But you have a fine looking cabin in a beautiful setting :) Even with it not complete you can still camp out in there ;D We did it in our cabin with dirt floors & plastic walls [crz]
I think the last several administrations have been operating in a bubble - when you allow all sorts of "creative" financial products like "derivatives" & other sorts of totally bogus investments, you have trouble brewing...
We had Michael Milken & the junk bond fiasco, the S&L failures, Enron & a bunch of other big corps going down the tubes due to illegal, criminal, cooking the books activities & then all the bank failures, bailouts, criminal activities of the Federal Reserve... what can you expect? Our politicians - both sides, are right there eating at the trough >:(
PS: was writing this when you replied...
Wish you the best!
/me points to Sassy and says, I think she hit the nail on the head!
And thanks.
Going to go camping this weekend at the shed. And cut wood to sell.
;D
Good luck Abby! The shed looks great, just got done reading through the thread...I like the style and size for a place to live and work on a future "big house". Some version of 'karma' persists no matter the politicians or govt - your ambition and pleasure in this project will ensure your success. Look forward to seeing your progress in the future!
Well still unemployed. Its been 2 months now.
However maybe that will change soon.
I have a 2nd interview set up for tomorrow.
Wish me luck!
We are pretty much unemployed too. It sucks! We are self employed so we aren't unemployed but definitely underemployed, and no unemployment benefits. :( If only we had the ability to start on a house, it would make the time seem more useful. On a plus side, lots of family time. :) Hope it turns around for you soon. We are in Michigan and I don't see things changing here anytime soon. We are wondering how long we will be able to stay in this area.
Quote from: Abbynrml on December 14, 2009, 05:22:17 PM
Well still unemployed. Its been 2 months now.
However maybe that will change soon.
I have a 2nd interview set up for tomorrow.
Wish me luck!
All the best luck!!!!
Here's hoping all goes well for all of you. I have several small jobs between bigger jobs but for the most part things are not looking great for a while.
Thanks everybody. I appreciate the support.
Abbynrml:
Do you also build and fly Spads; if so, it's a really small world. If not, there is a guy over there that has your same username.
No, the only flying I do is down the hwy on the way to my shed.
And tell that guy to quit using my nick.
I copyrighted it, lol
Abbynrml©
Ab:
Actually his name is Team Abbynormal (notice the spelling). He and his son (and I) build and fly radio control model airplanes built out of coroplast sign material. Just thought you might like to know (as he didn't really steal your whole username).
Wow what a relief, now I can sleep at night.
Hehe
Actually it came from the movie young frankenstein.
It was just an old guys feeble attempt at some light humor.
I recently had a near disaster, it was rather cool at night and we use a generator for power at the shed. I plugged a space heater into an extension cord to keep the chill off. BIG MISTAKE!!!
Do not use extension cords with heaters!
I awoke to find the generator had run out of gas, went out and refilled it then started it again. Came back in and just happened to touch the cord to move it away from the door way before going back to bed.
The cord was hot. Very hot. it actually melted the heater plug into the extension cord. Its a miracle it did not start a fire.
We will never do that again.
Anyway, it presents a problem, I dont want the generator very close, it is outside, but I prefer it 50 feet away. The gasses from a generator/gas engine are deadly. But using an extension cord is unsafe also.
I'm no electrician, but perhaps a simple solution would be to use a system like/or even from a travel trailer or boat that uses the shore power line.
Plug the generator into the shore line that runs into the shed to a breaker box then run some plug outlets out from it. Perhaps I can find/salvage a system from an old trailer or boat.
Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
volts x amps = watts
120 volts x A = 3000 (assumed wattage of heater)
A = 3000/120
Amps = 25
In this scenario you would need a cord built for 25 amps. Most extension cords I see are built for 15-20 amps. I believe 30 amp wire is 12 awg. If you want to be on the safe side go with a 10 awg extension cord. I am not an electrician, but these are the usually sizing requirements I go by.
http://www.affordable-solar.com/wire.charts.htm
Our RV uses a 10 ga cord or it's 30 amp shore power service. I bought 50 feet of cord at HD and put my own plugs on it. I remember it was not cheap, but it never heats up even with the A/C or a couple heaters.
A lot of the small heaters are 1500 watts also but a cord that is too long or too small, or has a plug or receptacle making a bad connection will overheat. A bigger cord could solve the problem and still let you safely have heat. See Squirls formula for amps and increase the size for excessive length.
In general 10 gauge will carry 30 amps. 12 gauge will carry 20. Long lengths decrease ampacity so step up to a larger cord.
A cord that is hot along it's length is too small. A cord with localized heating/melting at a plug or spot in the wire, has a broken wire or bad terminal or connection to the terminal.
Well finally some good news. After 3 months, today I got a job. Start full time Thursday. I'm guessing, and it really depends how the new job goes, but in a month or so I am hoping to resume work on my shed. Kinda weird how it worked out, but the weather should be alot better for working on the shed then too. :)
[cool] congrats!!
Same here.
Found a good deal on craigslist today. Bought a roll of aluminum black screen material 4'x100' for $30. Also sold the last load of firewood I had.
I plan on using the screen to enclose the porch on the shed. All I need now to finish the outside is 4 sheets of CDX plywood, 2 screen doors, and about 30 1x4's for the trim. Total cost on my shed so far is about $1800. So I will stay under the 2 grand to get it completely dried in. I can do the inside later.
Not sure what or when that will be. lol
Went today and got half of the trim cut, nailed up, primed, and painted.
The north and east sides of the shed are done except the final paint and touchup.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic021.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic018-1.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic020.jpg)
Looking fine.
It's interesting to watch how people do things. When I paint I always do the edges and corners first, then roller the main sections. It appears you do the opposite. Both ways look the same in the end so I suppose there is no one correct method. :)
I just had to comment on the fine looking cabin. Must be nice to be able to get to yours anytime of the year. Here is how we get to ours here in Minnesota.(https://i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae91/parkvu101/dcp_0214.jpg)(https://i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae91/parkvu101/dcp_0213.jpg)
Thanks for the kind words Grandmasplayhouse. Actually mine is only a shed, not a cabin. You have a great looking place there too.
Don, I painted the plywood in october, just now got to the trim. So, painting as I go.
Went up this weekend, got the trim done on the west side, and framed the sheds double doors.
One year ago pic:
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/2009-02-28021.jpg)
Todays pic from almost the same angle:
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic005-2.jpg)
Looking at the front or north side:
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic008.jpg)
Looking at the west side, with the door and trim in primer:
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/pic013.jpg)
Went today and got the final 4 sheets of siding up and primed.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture007.jpg)
Abbynrml I just wanted to inquire about a couple things. 1. What was the deciding factor in placing the vent turbine on the front roof rather than the back side out of view. Is there any reason that you decided against a ridge type vent. 2nd is that a window on the right end or something else. It is considerably smaller than the ones on the front. Not that anyting is wrong mind you but that appears to be awful low to be able to see out in a standing position.
Redoverfarm:
1. The vent is on the back side. the porch is facing south. The double doors are on the west side. No door on the front side. I used gable vents and a turbine vent. Ridge vents always seem to leak for me.
2. Yes it is a very small window. On the east side and another on the west side. Wish it was bigger, but it is what it is.
I bought all the windows off craigslist and got them cheap.
It is low, and standing it is too low to see out thru, but sitting it is about the right height. I will probally be sitting more than standing when inside. One day perhaps I can install a larger better suited window, but for now this will work.
I am happy to say phase 1 is almost complete.
Phase 2 was going to be the porch, but as you can see, it is already started.
I plan on screening it in. Going to run screen top to bottom all around.
Then I want to add a wood barrier around the bottom, going up about 2 feet. I was thinking of just using 2x4's attached to a 2x4 top and bottom.
A question that I have is how should I allow water to drain?
Can I cut grooves in the bottom 2x4 to allow it to drain?
Any thoughts or ideas for the porch finishing?
Today was beautiful. Trees budding out even saw a few wildflowers.
Got the trim completed on 3 sides now, only need to trim the porch windows.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture006.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture014.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture023.jpg)
Greetings All,
(Long time lurker, first time poster, soon to be builder of a Victoria). Gotta comment on the tiny window...Sometimes the right portal to the outside in just the right place makes all the difference in the world. A few months back, I was in a place where we lived in metal containers with no windows. We drilled a big hole in one to pass some cables through, and left a tiny square about 2" by 2" open. So much light (and life, it seemed) came through that tiny hole. Of course, someone eventually filled it up with a dirty sock or something ('cause it was 120 outside). I'da given my left arm for a window like that. The tiny window may be just perfect from the inside, seated, gazing outside and contemplating that to-do list over breakfast.
According to some, you shouldn't have a big picture window looking out at a great view, but rather a small window that just gives you a glimpse as you walk by. With the view in plain sight all of the time, you no longer 'see' it anymore, as you become used to it being there all the time.
I was thinking the opposite. If you had a great view it would slow you down just wanting to stop and gaze rather than doing something a little more productive. Sort of like leaving food on the countertop you would always be tempted to stop and take a bite.
Good points everyone. Actually if I replace the 2 small windows, I think I'll put them in the gables on the east end. So they will let in the morning sunshine and light up the loft area. The loft is on the east side.
I'm still thinking about the porch right now.
Does anyone have any thoughts on the water drain slots under the bottom 2x4 around the porch?
Something like this:
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture025.jpg)
What a wet day!
It stormed this morning, from about 8 until afternoon.
Cold front came thru and temps dropped big time.
I cut and nailed up the last of the trim work, just need to finish the painting and the exterior will be complete on the shed.
Still need to do the porch, but I'm kind of stuck on what to do.
In the rain today the porch area was soaked. Rain came in on 3 sides.
I'm almost afraid to finish the porch. Afraid that it will always get to wet.
Any ideas how to keep it drier?
Even thinking of ripping up the floor and redo it all.
What can I do?
Welcome to the world of delimia's. Everyone visits there every once in a while. I take it that you used Ply for the porch decking. I hope that you included a pitch of at least 1/4" to 1' . Wind driven rains will eventually make it's way through the screen enclosure. About the best approach is to keep the ply protected so that water will not penetrate it and it will delaminate itself. Off hand I would say the best approach is to paint it with a good quality oil based porch and floor enamel.
As for the drainage even a larger slot will eventually fill up with dirt, debris, cob webs, bees nest and the list goes on. I think I would probably build the railing wall and leave it slightly off the floor say 1/2" and then get something similar to cobra vent material and slip it into the void. It should allow water to exit the floor but keep the insects at bay. The major problem is that anything you do will have to allow the decking floor water to exit without any obstructions. By cutting kerfs in the 2X you would have to do it so close together to be effective. You could use screen over the void then camoflauge the void and screen with a 1X board that you have blocked out (1/2-3/4") on the lower side and would still allow the water to drain but would not be seen. Yes the board will appear to be a little off plumb but not that noticable. In the same train of though you could block the complete 1X out and then nail a 1" board as a cover to conceal that blocked out 1X from the top side hiding the blocked out area except for the denensions of the 1X . Hard to describe what I have in my mind d*( Lord Help Us) and get it into written form .
Thanks for the good ideas. I did use plywood for the subfloor, then tar paper. And there is a slight slope of 1 1/2 inches in 6 feet.
Next I will apply a coat of roofing sealer, then the final layer of plywood and paint it all with porch paint.
Went today and got almost all of the shed painted, only a little more trim to do.
Spring is here. It sure was pretty today.
A few pics of my place:
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture001.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture005.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture013.jpg)
Thanks for the bluebonnet shots! I lived in Austin for 8 years and I sure do miss that spring sight!
In the Pacific NW where we get lots of rain, we always build decks and outside porches from self draining materials using either cedar or PT material - 2x4, 2x6 or (if joists are 12" o/c) 1x4 decking spaced with a 1/8" to 3/16" gap over PT joists. These can be set level and 1" below the door threshold. This keeps wind blown water from wicking up into the doorway.
Your porch floor looks awfully close to the ground with less than great ventilation to dry it out. If that were built from standard lumber in my climate it would last 3 or 4 years tops and may by that time have insect damage that will also be infesting the cabin.
You might consider a slab for the porch floor if getting higher is not possible. Even sand set pavers would work - that would allow drainage and you could have a PT (1x4?) flashed to break the moisture connection to the cabin.
John, you probally are right. I was going to do a soil cement floor at first.
If I did a floor 3.5 inches thick and 6 ft by 16 ft, it would be about 1 sq yd of concrete. Thats about 47 bags of the readymix.
If using a 10% soil/cement mixture it would only be 5 bags of portland cement, I think. Mix it into the soil and wet it down to set up. I recall Glen suggested using a jute mat under it for support.
Perhaps I need to take the small loss, and go this way. I could reuse the plywood for something else probally later.
Any thoughts anyone?
The color.....change it. ;)
Quote from: Osprey on March 28, 2010, 05:07:36 PM
The color.....change it. ;)
Not sure what you mean by that.
Perhaps you are suggesting to add color to the soil cement?
Please explain.
I did a soil cement slab today. Its 2 foot by 5 1/2 foot, about 4 or maybe 5 inches deep. I used a 10% cement mix, about 50 lbs, and 5 gallons of water. If this turns out good I may do the porch like this.
Found a useful pdf at this site:
http://dpdtech.com/~pld/projects/articles/soil_cement.pdf
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture001-1.jpg)
And wanted to share some more wildflower pics from my place
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture022.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture035.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture034.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture030.jpg)
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture025-1.jpg)
Took the form off the soil cement slab.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture002.jpg)
Still undecided about it. For about $6 worth of cement what should you expect?
I am going to wait and see how this wears, no cracks, but I did not mix an area well enough by the edge. If it does crack, I think it will be there.
I also think I need to rent a mixer when I do the slab. The corners were a bit rough, so i just smoothed them down some with a 2x4 block. It was almost like sanding wood. It seems soft. Time will tell I guess.
Got a ships ladder added for the loft access.
The pic just barely show the handrail gap, oh well you get the idea anyway.
(https://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt217/Abbynrml_photos/Picture004.jpg)