12x16 Phase1

Started by Abbynrml, January 23, 2009, 08:42:19 PM

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Abbynrml

#50
Today I rented a trailer for almost $50. Then loaded a huge pile of pressure treated lumber on it and loaded the bed of my truck with the 2x4s.
Hauled it to the site and unloaded it all, then returned the trailer, then filled my bed up again with the last load of 2x4s.
I found an ad on craigslist for the wood. It was a walkway trellis in a nice townhome complex, about 5 miles away. All total, I bet I drove 200 miles today and moved 4000 pounds of treated wood. I got 32 4x6 posts, probally 10 2x10s, 25 2x6s, and 200 2x4s. Almost all the nails were removed by the seller. Wonderful deal, all of it for $180. So, plus the $50, its $230. Some will need to be cleaned up and all, but most everything I bought is in good condition. I guess 3 years old. Some tags still, wolminzed (sp) above ground contact on the 2x6s, and .4 on the 4x6 posts.
All I need to buy is the ridge boards and rafters and my frame will be ready to go up.
Oh and dont want to forget and tell you, how beat I am!!! LOL, goodnight..I need the icy hot and bed after a long hot shower.


glenn kangiser


That was a great deal.  You have to take advantage of the deals when they are there.  If passed up they will be gone.  A bit of snap decision making. :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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Abbynrml

Heres a couple of pics of the wood I got. Got it all stacked and sorted.
Also bought a chainsaw. A McCulloch Timber Bear 610. Not new, probally an early 80's model. So now I hope to down that tree that was hit by lightening.




Abbynrml

#53
Got a bit more done this weekend. Cut the limb above the shed site and dropped the tree that needed to come down. Also burned a little, alot more to burn tho.
Got the 3 piers set in place for the porch. There is a 1 1/2 inch drop in the elevation where I plan to slope the 6 foot wide porch floor, to allow rain/water to run off.
After measuring the wood I got I easily have enough to do the porch framing now.
So the porch will be included now instead of adding it later. My neighbor offered to give me enough tin to do the exterior and roof, all I have to do is remove it from an old shed he has. I might just use enough for the roof on mine and put siding up still as planned. Not to sure what to do. Any thoughts on the use of the old style wavy tin as roofing and/or siding for my shed? Geez, free is not bad!

glenn kangiser

I use the old corrugated wherever I can -- makes stuff look historic.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


Abbynrml

Whats the best way to attach the used tin?
I doubt that all the old holes will line up, so how do i plug the old holes?
Does a tin roof need to be grounded?
I was not planning on using purlins, only osb. But maybe I should use the radiant barrier board. I'm confused. Whats the best way for the used tin?

Bishopknight

Looking good. I always find that doing the foundation is one of the most fun parts of the project  :)

Redoverfarm

Used Tin? I would put OSB, felt and then the tin.  By using OSB rather than purlins you can put a screw into the original hole to seal it with the gasket of the screw.  Yes they will probably all not be in line but with used it's hard to keep them straight.  I would also use a roof sealer/paint to aid in sealing them off.  Sealer by itself will probably not seal the vacant holes.  If there are large holes(bigger than the screw heads) then cut a square patch, sealer and then screw to OSB in center.   Like putting on a patch.

Abbynrml

#58
OK, thanks for the tip.
I still wonder about the grounding of a roof like this. Does it need grounding?
Does the foil faced OSB (barrier board) help much in insulating the shed?
I'm in Texas and it gets hot. I will need to insulate.
Whats the best and cheapest I could do?


Abbynrml

Does a metal/tin roof need grounding?
Does the foil faced OSB (barrier board) help much in insulating the shed?
Any ideas for cheap insulation for the roof?

MountainDon

Foil can help with reflecting radiant heat energy. However to be effective it has to have an air space on the side the heat id coming from. That surface must always be clean and dust free as well. In theory it works, in practice it works less well.

I don't have any scientific proof, but to me it makes sense to ground a metal roof. Mine are.

As for insulation, where in the roof is it to be installed? in the faters or in a ceiling? For DIY batts or sheet foam are bout the only thing practical.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Abbynrml

Thanks for the advise!
I kinda thought so about the foil. I think I'll just use the plain OSB.
As for the grounding of a metal roof, I agree 100%. Like you said, no proof, but it would make me feel better if it was grounded. Lightening is really serious stuff.
I want to leave the ceiling area open, so the batt insulation in the rafters is probally the way to go, just wondering about the options. Spray on and foam looks kinda pricey. With only 2x6 rafters, it won't be insulated real well, but better than nothing. I planned on 24" centers. Do the batts normally come that size? If not I kinda need to know and do something else.

MountainDon

You can find batts for 24" OC framing. You could also do a foam sandwich roof like this one from buildingscience.com   Re: the grounding; I used #6 AWG non insulated copper wire from diagonally opposite corners leading down to 8 foot copper clad ground rods like the ones used for grounding the electrical service.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Abbynrml

I got a little more done this weekend.


Came back home to clean up and rest, then back again tomorrow.
Need to buy the wood for the top plates and ridge.


Abbynrml

A few delays, a few problems, and alot of sweat and hard work, 6 days later this is where I am at....
















MountainDon

Looks like 6 productive days.   :)
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Abbynrml

Thanks guys. As you can see, I did not use the tin roof.
I shingled it instead. Its a very long story...but lets just say it is shingled.
I still really like the tin roof look, but shingles were the best option for several reasons.
I have a lot left to do, but now I can take a break. One day to rest up then its back to my real job. Gotta eat too you know. lol Oh, and need to save up some bucks for the rest of the materials.
One more thing. I hired 2 guys to do the roof. Best investment yet!
If anyone needs a good worker in College Station Texas area, I can hook you up with them. Very nice, honest, and hard working guys. I love them both like a brother!  :)

wildcottonroad

This fall, if its not under too much ash, I am heading north to build a 12X16 on ten acres about 4 miles north of Anchor Point, AK.  I was going to do the standard post and beam foundation and then stick frame it.  However, this timber frame has my interest peeked.  The question I have is, how will the floor go in?  Is it going to be dirt, or will a sub floor go in later.  I am new to the mythology, mysticism and magic of building, so a lot of this is new to me.  I only have a few months before I start swinging a hammer and hope to look at all my options before I pick one a completely screw it up (which will probably happen no matter what design I choose, but I'll have fun doing it).

Any info you have would be appreciated.

Jay

Abbynrml

#69
For now the floor is dirt. I plan on doing a soil cement floor. It is like a slab only much cheaper and all done on site. I intend using portland cement and the soil that is on site. You simply mix the dry cement and soil together then wet it, not soak it just get it all wet. Like peanut butter. Then it dries into a hard "slab". Not as hard as concrete, but very durable. Research soil cement, cob floor, or poor man's concrete.  :)


Abbynrml

Another weekend and I got a bit more done.
Also returned the extra roofing materials.
It rained hard saturday morning. Sunday was beautiful.
Heres what it looks like now:





Abbynrml

Time is flying by. Last weekend of april, here's where I'm at now.



I also rethought the loft idea. I added a 8 1/2 foot wide by 8 foot long hanging loft.
I used 2x4's 12" on centers. Then hung 2 2x6's under it for support.




speedfunk

Looks really cool!


I'll be watching ,  I'm also thinking of soil cement floor for our house.  I like the idea of a dirt cheap floor that is strong but a bit softer on the feet then pure concrete. 

have fun!
Peace
jeff

John Raabe

Looks good but you are carrying about 1/4 the loft load as a point load at the center of the ridge board. (Which is doubled).

I wouldn't store a ton of bricks up there, ;) but it should be fine for hay and such.

PS: You might want to reinforce the rafter to plate connections for at least the immediate rafters that will transmit that point load from the ridge. Use straps or anchor plates that lock the rafter against outward thrust.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

Abbynrml

Thanks for the kind words.
I intend on using some straps to tie the rafters into the top plates and posts.
Kind of like the hurricane tie down straps that are sold.
I have several feet of very heavy metal banding material, I will cut and nail it in next time. Attach to rafter, twist, attach to inside of top plate, twist, then attach to post.
What kind of weight limit do you think the loft would hold?
I am thinking 400 lbs or less.
I had 200 lbs on it overnight, no problem and no shake.