Best way to install T&G flooring

Started by Larry, January 16, 2007, 11:45:29 AM

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Larry

I have ordered my 2x6 T&G flooring for the second floor of my 20x30 and I'm looking for some suggestions on how to install it.  One half of the floor will be over I joists @ 16", the other will be over 3 1/2 x 14 LVLs @ 48".

I have heard some folks talk about using glue on the beams, but I am concerned that the floor would buckle/split with changes in the weather.  My current plan is to use 2 1/2" screws at an angle thru the toungue with a strip of paper on top of the beam and no glue, but I want to make sure that I am not creating a squeaking nightmare in the process.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

John_M

#1
I used construction adhesive on my beams.  The building inspector recommended it.  He told me it would make a good solid surface.  I have no squeaks.  I just nailed through the tops with my air nailer.

I have a few pics here:   (you may have to scroll down)

http://ourlittlecabin.blogspot.com/


...life is short...enjoy the ride!!


glenn kangiser

#2
Screws sometimes shear rather than give.  I used the Porta-Nails air assisted nailer to install a bunch of floor in a building - haven't walked on it much though - stacked stuff over it.

This has a video , and shows the manual and air assisted nailers.

http://www.porta-nails.com/index.shtml

We did a subfloor and floor with felt between as recommended.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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Larry

Thanks for the feedback. I looked at the nailers, but I didn't see one that would work with 1 1/2 thick flooring.  The subfloor option won't work in this case. I'm trying for open beam/plank floor look.  It looks like I'll try gluing to the beam and hope for the best.

John Raabe

#4
You can glue at the tops of the beams then blind nail the tongue into the beam (at an angle) like you do for hardwood flooring. Also use a block and a persuader to get the decking tight... it will shrink (depending on climate and moisture content of decking) and the joints can show daylight if you don't cinch it up when you put it down. I know one house where the kids loved to drop coins and stuff through their bedroom floor.  8-)

I don't think gluing the T&G joint would be a good idea but if it works for some folks in some climates, Hey!
None of us are as smart as all of us.


John_M

#5
When I used the adhesive, it was just where the beam connected with the flooring.  I used 2 x 8 (actaully 1 3/4") kiln dried lumber.  
...life is short...enjoy the ride!!

glenn kangiser

I did a version of that, Larry in our other house.  I put 1x12 v grooved pine (extra groove at 6") down on top the joists then 3/4 particle board on top that then carpet over it in the upstairs bedroom over the particle board.  Below was a nice pine ceiling.  Wouldn't work if you wanted the pine floor upstairs too.

I think the Portanails has an optional shoe for the thick t&g.  
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Daddymem

You can't beat a bow
wrench
.  We have T&G in our FirstDay Cottage and that tool really helped pull the boards tight.  You just have to watch making orange marks on it.  I figured a way to save your back with it too.  I cut a piece of cardboard 2x1.5 or so and sat on that with my legs hanging over the deck.  On our bays (~3' spacing) I could reach two joists (without moving) to angle nails into the tongue.  Without getting up, I could slide down to the second from next bay.  We have some gaps, but nothing daylighting yet...let's hope it stays that way.



Où sont passées toutes nos nuits de rêve?
Aide-moi à les retrouver.
" I'm an engineer Cap'n, not a miracle worker"

http://littlehouseonthesandpit.wordpress.com/

PEG688

#8
Glue it at the beams , nail it with 10 d or 12d galv. nails , by hand , the hand nailing pulls it tighter than a gun .  A floor nailer is made for 3/4" T&G not 2 by T&G. So use the hand driven nails , forget the paper at beam you want to try to hold that tight.   Gluing the groove would be messy , if the glue held , it could cause more splitting by ripping the board apart , so DO NOT GLUE THE GROOVE.

Hopefully your T&G is kiln dried , if you have access to a moisture meter the wood should be under 18 % MC , lower would be better, remember the wood inside a building ,  a heated one , in winter will be some where around 8 % or lower , as low a 2 to 4% with radiant floor , or  wood stove heat.  


Drive it tight either with a bow wrench , I've never used one might be a good tool , or a sledge  hammer and a cut off piece of T&G to protect the piece your installing .

 You,  MTL , will need to face nail the first board and last board straight down as #1, it will need to be nailed to a snapped line so the floor starts straight , the angled nails / toe nails will tend to drag / push the board off that line , #2 you may not have hammer swing room due to your rafters / roof sheathing if you lay your flooring after your in the dry.

And maybe that was the place to start , IF YOU CAN , buy and store the T&G  in the dry , do not install it until the roof is on.

 This protects the flooring from const. damage , allows it to air dry to a more workable MC , so it is shrinking [highlight]before it is installed [/highlight], if your going to stain it pre staining will save your neck and shoulders , have you ever stained some thing over head?? , it will be easier and a better job if done before it's installed .

 Yes this creates a problem of a temp floor to work off of while framing the roof , planks and OSB make fine staging on the joists while you frame the roof.

 Just a few rushed thoughts , G/L , PEG

I think    if you look back the the Daddymen thread you'll find more similar advice was given to him ,  Daddymen  could you bump or link your other thread?  

 Edited to add it will shrink , I'd not worry about it buckling , that would be caused by swelling. It will shrink once the house is in the dry.

It will squeak , all T&G 2 by floors squeak some , just part of the charm.  
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


John Raabe

#9
There you have it boys and girls! :D

This is stuff you just can't get from the book alone.  ;)
None of us are as smart as all of us.

glenn kangiser

#10
Thanks for all your time and good advice, guys. :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.