Best cheap used pickup truck?

[CREATIVE1]

Don't think a Volkswagen camper and two Subarus are going to do what we need while building.  One of the subies has about 250,000 miles and needs rear end work , so pickup time is here. We are probably going to have to offload deliveries at the end of our quarter mile road.  It's only narrow as it goes into our property, but there's no place to turn around!

So---

Diesel?  It costs about 60 cents more per gallon and is readily available.

Any special tires, etc. for mountain roads?

Stick or automatic?

It would have to have a long bed.

I've seen cheap trucks from the early 90's, like GMC's and Fords.  Need something with available parts.

The last truck we owned (35 years ago) was a 1965 Ford F250.  It had 3 on the column (hated it) and was so hard to steer with the ultrawide tires that I only drove it a coupla times.  So, no antiques please.  Pure work truck is what I have in mind.

[glenn kangiser]

Not even a question.  Dodge with Cummins Diesel.  Usually over 20 mpg full size.  Easy to work on - tons of room under the hood - not so cramped you can't work on it like the others.  Not generally a favorite of Ford and Chevy people until they get one, so prices are usually low.

Watch for the 53 block around 94 to 2000 year model.  It can crack.  Number in the casting either side front of block right above the pan - about 1/2 inch numbers or so- not the same place on all.  If it gets down to that I can give you more links to info.

Free help online for any repair.  A good automatic is as good as a stick.  Maybe a bit less mileage depending how you drive.  Pre 94 still good but less HP.  94/02 24 valve HP easily upgraded a bit with a chip, exhaust and intake air filter change - part or all.  Much more with more work.


http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/index.php

[CREATIVE1]

Wow!  You just saved me alot of work.   

[glenn kangiser]

I used to be a Dodge mechanic and have the book on this so I can help too.  The Fords and Chevy's are way too crowded to work on.

My neighbor was a Ford man -just got a Dodge 1Ton Dually with a Cummins 4x4 under 10K. He gets over 20 mpg.  Now he kicks himself for not doing it earlier.  Mine 1ton dually 4x4 w/flat bed was 15995 I think.  Better deals out there though.  Cummins should be good for 500,000 to 1,000,000 miles with care before OH.

[CREATIVE1]

So what model would that be?  2500 or 3500? Or something else?  I've been shopping ever since you posted here.

[glenn kangiser]

1 ton is 3500 in single or dual rear wheels but 3/4 tons are 2500s and as good if you don't need duals on the rear- they need the heavy frame for the Cummins.  They don't have a Cummins in a 1/2 ton - frame is not strong enough.

[glenn kangiser]

Be sure to add a fuel pressure gauge to a 24 valve in a 94 to 02.  Low boost pressure can take out the main injection pump.  Details later if you need them.

[glenn kangiser]

Slightly --- modified Cummins - 516 HP

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mz2Oh_DGo7M

[CREATIVE1]

Cool.  I am now getting car hauling quotes to see if we should buy it here or there, 3,000 miles away.  Much more selection in a big city.

Thanks so much, Glenn.  

[glenn kangiser]

My extreme pleasure... 

[glenn kangiser]

Be sure if buying away you have them certify that it does not have the 53 block - mine broke and had to be replaced - by me of course but I still recommend the Cummins - it was a Brazil casting problem.

[Redoverfarm]

You might check out some of the goverment surplus  Forrest Service, Soil Conversation or Department of Transportation.  They have regular auctions.  Sometimes you can catch a really good one for 1/3 of the street sale value.  Most have inspection times prior to the sales.  Even if you have to sink a couple hundred in some repairs you can still be ahead of the game. 

As for standard vs. auto I go for the standard.  If you are pulling trailers, decending grades you can reduce the break wear considerably.  I especially like it in snow.  But I am a Ford person hooked on Powerstroke.  7.3L.  Stay away from the above 6L to the 7.3 had alot of problems. I understand the new 6L is OK but not the price for me. 

[glenn kangiser]

The automatic can have an exhaust brake added - with a shift mod for the auto trans to lockup the torque converter.  A note - all factory torque converters are inadequate for heavy work no matter what brand truck.  An aftermarket torque converter and shift kit such as a DTT and Suncoast valve body are pretty necessary to make them hold up heavy and long.

There are other brands.

[glenn kangiser]

I have lots of friends with many problems with the various Fords leaking diesel in impossible to get at places under the turbo etc. Everything is put in with a shoe horn so working on it gets to be a major problem if you want to DIY.  It is a solid mass of parts under the hood.  I understand you have ot remove the cab to change the engine on the new ones.  I haven't verified this  as I don't work on them.

I don't know how Ford mileage is.  I know Ford people like them and stick to them but many don't try to do much of their own work on them.  Ease of repair has always been the reason to own a Cummins.

[cordwood]

 I don't like autos for a work truck usually but the Getrag stick they put behind some of the Cummins were plain junk!
I have a 97 half ton Dodge with a 318, auto. and at just over 200,000 It has had only brakes and a water pump, I have worked harder than it would like but it has held up well. It's more like a car with a big leaky trunk
I never was a fan of Desto's as a kid but now I wouldn't even consider any other truck but a Cummins powered Dodge.

[glenn kangiser]

Yup - some of the Getrags had some problems but mine only got a broken shift lever on my 92 with a Cummins.  I put a 3/4 deep socket with a 12" extension over the broken stub and I think the buddy I gave it to is still driving it that way.  Gearshift was kicking around under the seat somewhere.

[glenn kangiser]

I put a DeSoto Hemi in a 50 something International 3/4 ton.  Twisted the bell housing in half once.  I was a show off.

[CREATIVE1]

Got my first shipping quote (3,000 miles)  $1,740.  Yikes!  More than I thought.  How fast can you say "road trip?"

[Redoverfarm]

In regards to Manner of shift.  You will get better mileage out of a standard than an auto especially in Ford.  Can't say about Dodge no one has ever given me one.

[CREATIVE1]

I don't mind a stick, and it would probably do better in the mountains and maybe for towing.  We have a 60's vintage 17' Shasta Aeroflyte that needs to accompany us to the 70 miles of national park beaches on the Washington coast.

[glenn kangiser]

They should be all over if you look a bit but East Coast may have salt damage.

Check this out... no promises

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/classifieds/showcat.php/cat/19

[CREATIVE1]

Good link.  After I register on the site this is WAY better than Auto Trader.

[glenn kangiser]

Sorry, John - my buddy is on disability and has been setting me up with deals since 1976 so I help him out too.

He gives me engines - generators -gun holster- set me up with a  TD15 w/blade to trade for my old dump truck straight across-Mike's project- etc -   We take care of our own.....and we're not inbred either.

It's the little things....

You are right about the stick - probably a bit better mileage when driven right and no automatic problems or upgrades needed.  Exhaust brake is good with them too as the Diesels don't have the compression braking as good as the gas engines -

[glenn kangiser]

Good link.  After I register on the site this is WAY better than Auto Trader.

and free too.  One good thing about this site is the guys there generally know a lot about their truck -- that is where I get my help if needed.  You can do your own repairs with a code reader and help of this site.

[apaknad]

chevy ford, auto trans, 4wd, long bed or 6.5, extended cab if you can, and v-8 gas. this will do anything you want to do and pull a fairly heavy trailer.