Welcome to Tranquility Base. Can I fix you something to drink?
We all look at floor plans every day and after a while, we can get a reasonable idea of what the lines and squiggles represent in the real world - but we each come away with a different interpretation unless there is additional communication to reinforce the various squiggles into a less abstract representation of the space and how it will be finished and used. I've massaged this plan into an organized collection of activity spaces. Each space serves multiple activities and is aesthetically defined by artsy-craftsy features and transitions. As an example, there are 5 different ceiling heights in this cabin. There are cozy little alcoves and other places that really invite a stretch with a feeling of openness. These features may not show up with a casual glance at the floor plan, very similar to the way a street map fails to convey the feeling of any particular city.
Let's walk through the house as I narrate, but keep in mind that I don't have all the details figured out yet and any design element is subject to change when I discover a better way of doing something. The general idea is that a small cabin doesn't have to feel sterile and harsh. I'm thinking in terms like a nice live-aboard sailboat - functionality and aesthetics can coexist if it's planned properly. This plan is derrived from John's 14x24 Builder's Cottage by joining a 14x16 and a 14x20 with a small bumpout for the window seat.
You may smile when you see my massive charcoal smoker grill not too far from the front door (there really is no need for a "front door", this is the back door that everyone uses). It may not seem so strange after you taste my version of Texas barbeque brisket or my spicy fajitas. I cook on it several times a week, year round. It needs to be convenient to the kitchen and it's also convenient to the propane tap and there's hot and cold potable water available right to the side. The picnic table over there and this cooler of beer completes my version of an outdoor kitchen. The wooden Aderondak chairs clash a little with the solar tiki torches so we'll have to call that eclectic decorating.
Through the country door (soild hardwood like Brazillian Cherry with stained glass panels inspired by the Gamble house) and into the kitchen. It's sized just right for two friendly cooks to have plenty of elbow room, slicing and dicing on the cast-in-place concrete counters. The TV/stereo is right there so we can catch the news or maybe sautee the mushrooms with Patsy Cline. There's a peninsula where we can sit to eat our culinary creation if the weather or insects are not friendly enough outside. Our kitchen has a normal 8 foot ceiling that opens up all the way to the roof at the peninsula. Acoustical panels suspended between the joists with recessed lights provide a soft even glow for general lighting and spot lights scattered above the counters illuminate work areas as required. Or, we may elect to eat our supper in the recliners and watch a DVD with the TV relocated to the peninsula. The exposed beams above the recliners break-up some of that vertical open space but still feels roomy enough to want to take in that deep breath of air and smile. A small antique table between the chairs holds a few books and our after-dinner coffee or maybe a scotch neat. Listen to the soothing tick-tock rhythm of the old Seth Thomas clock. We can look up and see some of what's happening in the computer alcove in the loft. The late afternoon sun shines through the windows with the hanging prisms and scatters rainbows all over the walls.
We see the dark mesquite wood and leaded glass panes of the liquor cabinet and the carved archway leading down a bright 4 foot wide hall covered on one side with book shelves and the other side with framed photos of kids and grandkids, there's a 7 foot ceiling here that makes the area feel cozy - exposed loft joists with various nic nacks tucked up between and illuminated with LEDs and there's plenty of light coming through the window seat. The window seat is open all the way to the roof and it becomes a handy laundry chute from the loft. There's also a wicker basket dumb-waiter for things that need to go up or down - a nice soft 1/2 inch cotton rope suspended from an antique ship's pulley (just for looks). Plenty of throw pillows in the window seat to get in my way, but the wife likes them so I shouldn't throw them too far. The hanging plants are mine - she'll kill them if she even touches them. The laundry area hides behind some simple bifold doors and the little cabinet for laundry supplies is attached to the wall for stability but removable to get better access to the back of the stacked washer/dryer. The window seat has a closet pole for the hanging clothes as they come out of the dryer and this is a great folding area too. It's not a normal closet pole, it's strong enough to do chin-ups on when I want to.
The bathroom has a sliding pocket door that will probably be closed only when there are visitors. Nothing special about the bathroom except the closet is very handy and the radiant warmed floor feels good when I step out of the shower and grab the towel from the warming drawer. Maybe a tile mosaic image in the floor. The water heater, electrical panel and the air plenum for the "cool tubes" live in the closet. I'll need to move the hanging clothes out to the window seat when I do the routine maintenance in here. The water heater sits in a deep pan with it's own drain - those guys fail at the worst times and have a habit of flooding the place when they do. The water heater has a sealed combustion chamber that draws crawlspace air to feed the flame (no risk of back-drafting the exhaust into the living area) There's a gray-water tank underground that's connected to the sink and tub - I'll water the yard and garden with that.
Let's climb the oak ladder and see what's happening in the crow's nest. The bedroom feels spacious with the 7 1/2 foot ceiling and uncluttered openness - a queen sized waterbed, a couple of small tables and a chair. The combination of 12 foot studs and the lowered ceiling below provide a kneewall over four feet tall. Off to the side, we see the computer alcove and I'm not telling all the secrets about that area right now, but there's a small wicker basket dumb-waiter perfectly sized for some hot coffee and a couple of cookies fresh from the oven. There's a step up as we enter the computer alcove, the lower ceiling here is plenty comfortable while sitting. From here we can see the recliner area and even converse with whomever is in the kitchen. A small window in the door provides plenty of light for this area. The slope of the ceiling intersects the back of the desktop. The small balcony shelters the front door and provides a nice place to catch the afternoon breeze or maybe keep an eye on that storm that's approaching. It also makes a reasonable emergency exit.
Let's talk a little about my "cool tube" system (as I have it designed in my head and there are still some details to be worked out). This system is my primary HVAC and is easily separated into it's three major subsystems. Cooling is my primary concern here in north Texas, so we'll discuss that part first. The average underground temperature here is about 70 degrees - did I get lucky or what ;-)
Nine cooling tubes (3 or 4 inch pvc) run under ground along with a soaker hose to shed heat from the house into the dirt. The tubes and dirt can be moistened with cool well water or gray water when needed to improve the thermal conductivity. The variable speed quiet blower will be operated by a servo such that the airflow rate is proportional to the difference between the actual and desired temperatures. The air path is a closed loop so the air keeps recycling through the house and the buried tubes. A high airflow is the signal to shoot some water down there.
The heating subsystem is similar to the cooling with its tube field covered with a waterproof insulated barrier to keep cold rain and snow-melt from absorbing too much of my precious heat. A small solar collector heats water in the summer and pumps it into the area of the tubes (It'll do that in the winter too, but at a reduced efficiency). There will be some heat available in the cooling field that I can extract as I see fit. I'll need to run some air through the cooling field even in winter to prevent air stagnation in the tubes. We normally do laundry only once a week or so, but maybe a small heat exchanger on the dryer exhaust would be handy - not sure about that one yet.
The ventilation subsystem is open loop and provides tempered make-up air to replace that which is exhausted. It will run continuously drawing fresh air from the crawlspace, through underground pvc pipes and into the living spaces. There's an exhaust fan in the bathroom, over the stove and one in the computer alcove to exhaust undesirable air on demand.
I'm concerned about condensation in the cooling and ventilation tubes and haven't yet discovered a simple solution. I figure each tube should be cleaned about once a month when I replace the air filters. Small cords will pass through each tube where I can attach a cleaning mop to draw it through the tube. I figure it'll take an hour or two to pull a mop through all the tubes to extract dust and distribute fungicide. The mops could be as simple as a small hand-towel with a loop of cord sewn in. I'd clip on a fresh towel for each tube and run the towels through the laundry when finished. The tubes are all a different length because they each have a partially unique path under ground so each tube gets mopped twice to keep the pull-cords organised. The ventilation subsystem will be more difficult to clean because both ends of the tubes are not available in the closet. I've also thought about ultraviolet light to kill any bad critters, but I think it will also be bad for the pvc. Maybe oxygen or negative ions???? I can also pull mops through the air distribution ducting as required, they'll also be pvc tubes.
I'm expecting my heating and cooling costs to be very low - just running the air blowers. All the blowers will be the same make and model so any failure on a Saturday night wont constitute an emergency - just swap out blowers and pick up another one next week when I happen to be in town. Speaking of contingencies, electric service is very reliable but I remember a nasty ice storm about ten years ago when we lost power for several days. A small generator converted to run on propane would easily power the blowers, fridge and all the appliances that use the electric spark lighters.
All these blowers and distributed air ducts totally eliminate the need for any ceiling fans. Open windows allow a lot of dust to enter with the fresh air - this system controls the airfreshness year round through replacable filters (unless a skunk crawls under my cabin). Only the bare minimum of windows need to be openable.
Let's talk about my ideas for the roof. I like the "hot roof" idea covered with simple corrugated steel they sell for agricultural buildings. I'm thinking something like 7/16 OSB sheathing on the rafters with tar paper. Get the steel panels long enough to reach ridge to eave (12 feet) and maybe paint them a light grayish blue green to approximate the look of copper patina and provide high IR reflectivity. Flash the valleys well and seal the eaves against birds and nest-building insects. Seal all the joints with butyl. A simple ridge cap and the roof should last longer than I have left on this earth. I'm thinking all the plumbing vents and air exhaust vents should go through the side of the house to eliminate roof penetrations and all the problems that are associated with them. We get some nasty hail storms here and I think this roof has a better chance of standing up to them than many other options - I think the corrugations would be much stronger than some other profiles. The only complication in the roof is the small gable dormer for the computer alcove door.
******
When I think of everything it takes to build a house, the details overwhelm my simple brain. Until I encountered you folks on this forum, the collective project would have been percieved as impossible for me - reading how many of you went from inexperienced to project completion in the course of time has encouraged me to pursue this as a reality. The project is bigger than I can imagine. I have to break all the big tasks into their own projects, each with their own sub-projects. The trick is coordinating all the details between cross-linked sub-projects. How am I ever going to know when the project is "finished"?
As a trade-off between timeline and cashflow, timeline will win in a way that's backwards from typical - I have much more timeline than available cashflow and I'm looking for ways to optimise that balance. I'm figuring something like a thousand dollars a month early on then stabilizing at about six hundred dollars per month. I understand there will be bumps in that curve. I figure about two years from breaking ground before we could move in and then finish the projects in an "upgrade" fashion over another couple of years. I can imagine the sense of urgency to move in will build stronger when the walls go up and the project becomes 3 dimensional. I want to balance that urgency with the wisdom of doing the job right - where the first time is the only time.
There are so many new skills to learn and a few old ones to relearn along with the miniscule details of how a house goes together. I've cut a few boards and soldered a few water pipes in the past. I can replace a broken electrical socket and rewire a lamp, but I've never planned a whole house from scratch. I'm pretty sure I can plumb and wire a house with some guidance on best practices. The same is true with rough framing and finish carpentry. I know I can do it, I just don't know precisely WHAT to do,,,, yet.
I think I remember a sawmill not too far from here that has lots of mesquite and pecan. That would make some great cabinets and trim, maybe even a few walls or floors. I think for a couple hundred dollars, I could make a better door than I could buy with the same money. The tablesaw and router table start to make sense somewhere in there, maybe a surfacer and bandsaw too. I'm not especially fond of buying tools just to add to the collection, they have to pay their way.
I've never done any masonry before, but I think between the bathroom floor and counter plus the kitchen counter, I'll get it figured out. Maybe it would be smart to practice on the water heater pan. I wonder how difficult it would be to construct the tub/shower from concrete. There's tons of pertified palm tree in the area - I think that would make a great looking gravel substitute.
Well, I have another tip to pass along - coffee roasting. If you're a coffee drinker, I encourage you to check out roasting your own coffee. It's like the difference between a fast-food hamburger and one you cook on your grill. A whole new world of coffee flavor opens up. I've been roasting for about four years now and wish I had started 30 years ago. Check out www.sweetmarias.com for some good roasting information. I'm not associated with that site or its owners - they have good information and great coffee. You can beat their prices if you shop right and get lucky but it's tough to beat their quality. I strongly suggest heat-gun/dog-bowl roasting has about the best bang for the buck - other technologies may suit you better after you decide you like it.
You are one fast typer, Bruce. :-/
OK - I'm reading. :)
I'll bite a little, Bruce. The shower your way is easy. There are heavy liners or liner kits available at Lowes or HD. There are shower drains that have a grip for the liner then the drain sets a little higher for you to do your concrete work. I've done 2 that way here. One has a slate floor with pea gravel in the mortar between the slate pieces.
Sounds like you are enjoying your project already. :)
On the coffee - never done our own but there is a small roasting company outside of town - sells locally - does what he calls flash roasting. Much better than normal. I'll have to check out your tip. :)
How about more info on the heat gun dog bowl method -- I didn't see it at Maria's. (PS--does it make your dog mad?)
On the DIY shower, I was thinking something like a cast-in-place combination tub and shower surround. I can envision it but I'm also sure there are more issues with the behavior of the mortar than I can forecast.
Pour the dog an espresso and it wont mind letting you use the bowl. Tom has rearranged his site (I don't go there for roasting instructions any more). Here's a direct link to the source: www.homeroaster.com/heatgun.html
and here's a play-by-play description of what you'll observe:
http://sweetmarias.com/roasting-VisualGuideV2.html
If you have a skilled roaster available, maybe you don't need to do the work yourself and can still get good coffee. I might not roast if there were a decent roaster in my neighborhood.
Looks good Bruce! ;D
Tell me you have decided how you'd expand the house once you have a couple of rug rats ?? :-? Best if you plan that head and fit it into your design so you dont end up having a problem when it comes time to expand. :D
Dimitri
Rather than cast in place, how about ferrocrete - chicken wire and cement/sand. Ken Kern wrote in one of his books about making a hot tub using this method -- make any shape you want - then tile it or whatever you like. I can look it up if it is of interest to you. Keep in mind that the heavy mass will take quite a bit of heat - or add a hot tub heater and spinning jets for a real thrill.
Our coffee co. has a little website and I have BS'ed with the owner. http://www.mariposacoffeeco.com/index.html
Thanks for the heatgun dog bowl roaster link.
Was I supposed to take the dog food out of the bowl before brewing my coffee?-- this doesn't look too good. :-/
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/47d3264a5baf17ba30f2cd0b792f8642.jpg)
Dimitri, I at a different point on the road of life. The last of my rugrats will be moving out soon (little bit of a self-confidence issue). It will be back to just the two of us. But, I do have plans for expansion. The wall behind the recliner area comes down and a greatroom of about 16x20 gets attached. There's also a possibility of another wing that's basically a mirror image of Tranquility Base and it becomes a ground-level master suite. Time will tell if swinging hammers is a fun hobby and we'll decide if the additions get built. As an ace up my sleeve, I can inform the kids we'll be spending a couple of months with each of them in rotation because we can't climb the ladder anymore - I think they'll find the motivation to complete the construction for me ;) In the meantime, Tranquility Base meets all the requirements of a comfortable home for two.
Glenn, you crack me up!!! DON'T drink the Gravy Train - it'll keep you up all night howling at the moon :) I'll fax you a cup of coffee ;) I googled ferrocrete because I'm not quite sure of the differences in masonary products. I got the impression it was just normal concrete with a steel wire lath - other sites led me to believe it was something like stucco. Well, I googled stucco and plaster and found a few examples of showers and some tubs made from each - but not a combination unit. I got enough information that I think I can figure most of it out. I should say I'm not a big fan of masonry products in general - that was more my solution than my requirements. I strongly dislike tub/shower joints and grout/caulk in general. My requirement is a low maintenance shower tub combination in a reasonable budget. I did some research on concrete countertops and that technology looked applicable to the bathing area as well. It seems the more reading I do, the more I like concrete and stucco. I'll have to get me a couple bags and play in the mud. The wife decorates cakes so perhaps she'll be better at shaping and trowling than me. I'm thinking something like reasonably stout framing and some WonderBoard for a backer, and then say 3 layers of stucco. Polish till I get the surface finish I'm pleased with, then let it cure and apply a couple coats of sealer. I've seen the pics of your stucco steps and your shower - you clearly know more about this than I do. I trust your judgement and guidance.
Bruce,
My mistake thought you were younger for some odd reason. :o Anyways in that case it looks good and its good you left yourself open to explainson would suck building the house and not being able to expland when you feel like it later. :)
Dimitri
I like. You may want to put water needs closer. When shower and sinks are close, less heat loss. kitchen sink with bathroom on other side of wall can share cleanout and venting.
I've just done enough stucco to be dangerous, and been around tons of it on projects. Ferrocrete is basically stucco -usually no lime added and maybe extra cement for a stronger mix. A mandrel - frame can be made in the shape you want from 3/8 rebar then tie multiple layers of chicken wire to it. If just working from one side the stucco lath w/ paper backing would be good for the bottom then other layers on top - it would keep the cement from falling through. If you go with 1 piece molded construction you don't need the cement board Stucco was used before anyone ever thought of cement board.
(http://www.rrcnet.org/~stucco/chart_1.gif)
I would put a layer of 30 lb felt behind it. I have used the cement board - here in fact - if I just want a rectangular shower. With the stucco you can go any shape you want. You can tile over it if you want too.
Check this site out for concrete ideas - can be done with lightweight concrete or stucco with some imagination.
http://www.geocities.com/flyingconcrete/
Rick does our roasting but uses a souped up hot-air corn popper. So far he's done 70+ batches with the current one-not bad for a thrift store $3 purchase. He buys from Marlton but we will check out the site you mentioned. Thanks.
And I have to agree-fresh roasted is the best . Starbucks :P
Judy
I have a friend who gets her coffee by mail from Starbucks.
She has ever since there was only one Starbucks.
The one in the Seattle area, I guess.
As late as five years ago she was still getting really good coffee from them.
Unlike what you get in the stores. Even if it's supposed to be the same blend and roast.
(and for a while they decided not to mail out coffee--and she got some from Green Mountain Coffee
Company, but I think they decided to reinstate their mail order business)
At one time--not too long ago I heard that Starbucks was semi-roasting huge quantities of coffee in a central location. Then finishing it closer to the stores. That might explain why some of the stuff is terrible.
I occasionally buy Capulin coffee. Weird company. Semi-wild-crafted coffee (typica, not arabica or robusta) dating from the days of Maxmillian in Mexico.
http://www.capulincoffee.com/
How about a nice smooth cup of Kopi Luwak coffee. Think this stuff is any good?
http://www.uoguelph.ca/research/news/articles/2002/purr-fect_cup.shtml
What ever happened to regualr grind coffee...No extra roast, mint mocha cheeno capuchinno.. motte latte or what the heck ever...
regualar leaded black coffee...No sugar, cream or sprinkles....
My wife drives me insane when we are driving somewhere and she says...let's stop and get some coffee. I used to bite...I am leery now....20 minutes of her standing there looking at the 250 ways she can get a cup of Java asking the waitress about all the different combos and such.... :o
I just stop at a waffle house for Coffee...They don't sell sprinkled foamy crap there....Just regular black coffee....mmmmmmm
I agree-I have a friend who loves Starbucks-I refuse to get caught up in that vente extrahot lowfat with whip coffee-ese they seem to think we should all learn. Gimme a large, I don't care what you call it Barrista?! You know what a large is.
About Bruce's house-I like the compact design and they way you've thought of how YOU will live in the house, not what the market thinks you should put in a house. We tried to design ours that way, too. We only have one shower area and I researched lots of variations before deciding to go with this. We will not have a tub, just a shower that is large enough for wheelchair access if that is ever needed. I've been looking for some pics I had of different tubs and will post when I find them.
By the way-what region of the country are you in, Bruce?
Judy
If any of you Americans visit Canada stop by at a Timmies (Tim Hortons) coffee shop. They are everywhere here. 8-)
Dimitri
An interesting set of pictures on http://www.artesano-home.com/9.html tadelakt for showers, tubs and sinks.
Judy
So that's where Tim Horton's came from. Those shops started showing up in So Ohio about 5 years ago. Seems popular there, too.
I finally got a look at this thread. I didn't know it was about coffee. :) I just buy Yuban which I have come to like. And I only need 1-1/2 scoops instead of 2 like I have to do with other brands. I am no conisseur just a consumer. Like benevolance said, black, no frills.
Well and truly highjacked, wasn't it.
My helper gets here at some totally impossible hour in the morning. Her first job is to make coffee.
It's what keeps me tranquil.
QuoteWell, I have another tip to pass along - coffee roasting. If you're a coffee drinker, I encourage you to check out roasting your own coffee.
You can't blame me for hijacking this one -- Bruce, in true CountryPlans style, hijacked his own thread. Probably figured he may as well -- it would probably happen sooner or later anyway.
CountryPlans is the modern day substitute for the old Pot bellied stove at the country store. Many a plan was made and many a problem was solved there.
Great site, Judy (Artesano).
I just wanted to thank everyone for the informative comments. This is exactly what I was looking for - the wisdom of the collective to identify my artificially imposed constraints and cause me to think about the plan in new ways. Life's been busy lately with getting ready for the hollidays and learning about concrete and related products. This Texas weather is very strange this year.
Judy, that Tadelakt looks like it may be a perfect match for my solution - thanks!! My old fiberglass jacuzzi died a few years ago and I have been missing it a little bit (I don't miss the maintenance it consummed). Perhaps a custom Tadelakt finished jucizzi would be a good practice project.
scottb, I like the way you think. Everyone has their own priorities and compromises for house layout and construction material consumption. I tried the layout I think you're suggesting because it did save on the plumbing components - I didn't care for the general traffic flow that floorplan generated and the wife wanted an exterior window over the sink. The extra 10 feet of supply plumbing and an additional vent was an easy sacrafice decision for me.
Glenn, your comment and link to FlyingConcrete turned my world upside down. At first, I wanted to dismiss concrete construction because I didn't understand it - perhaps I still don't. But I see that it is a viable construction alternative and a more versatile media than I originally imagined. The examples of concrete construction I've seen in the past were poor representatives of the available possibilities (they were institutioanally and grossly utilitarian). I did some other searching and found http://monolithic.com - lots of good information about superinsulated thinshell monolithic domes and concrete house construction in general. By combining the concepts, we get two dead birds and one bloody rock. Lightweight insulating concrete reduces or eliminates the need for expensive urathane foam and it distributes structual support more homogeneously. Two issues remain unanswered for me - cost effectiveness and esthetics. I haven't convinced myself that an equivilent concrete house would have lower construction costs for the basic structure (especially considering my highly expansive soil). I do like the available economics of finishing with the various cement products. I like the laid-back mood of the "remote vacation cabin by the lake" which conventional wood framing matches very well. The well-done concrete houses I've seen in the web searches look more urban and maybe even a little bit too formal or sterile for my tastes. I've found examples of concrete versitility in simulating the appearance of other materials - I think getting the look and attitude of the house any way I want it, is possible, but I would feel more confident if I could see existing examples. I'll continue researching this avenue.
I'll let yall draw your own conclusions about what coffee is suitable or even preferable. I like the option that I have selected for myself, I just wish I had known about it many years earlier. I'm drinking some of the best coffee available and experimenting with unique blends and roast profiles, all for about the same price as grocerystore coffee (that includes shipping and roasting costs) And about that Kopi Luwak - I've never tried it, but I'm convinced that it bagan as some kind of fratertinity hazing ritual where the inductee cleverly turned the tables by pretending to like it. I can get a bushel of clean fresh oats for a fair price - if it has already gone through the horse, I can get it quite a bit cheaper. But coffee from the south end of a north-bound cat doesn't follow that economic paradigm.
Bruce,
If it makes you feel better about the weather its December 18, in Southern Ontario Canada and I still don't have snow and its not even below freezing for the next week it seems! Normally I have snow and freezing tempuratures at this time of year. :o
Dimitri
Just a little update so yall know I haven't died. The search for a concrete based solution has been interresting for me. I've found a general plan that I think I like http://ferrocement.com/casa-contents/contents.en-ferroHouse-web.html I've adjusted the walls (and still doing some adjusting).
There are some features of this construction method that I like very much. Dimensions are not based on a module of 4 feet to conserve raw materials - the walls go where they look right. Curves and bends add grace and strength while the variation in the curves gives a more organic and less geometric mood. Cost of materials works out to be about 3/5 of the conventionally frammed equiv (with even more savings when the cement is used as the finished surfaces).
One of the negatives with this approach is that future floorplan expansion opportunities are much more difficult to arrange.
It's almost time for me to break out the playdough to make a scale model
This link is posted on another thread , in case you haven't seen it --you may be interested.
http://www.texasmusicforge.com/gimmeshelter.html
Gimme Shelter - Page 1.
Grab some nice lacy undergarments and cement them to the side of your house - meshcrete starting around page 55 or so.
Don't forget Fibermesh for ferrocrete - stucco type products to really increase strength cheaply and easily. Available at the ready mix plant in 1 lb bags - avg 1 per yard - we do it by a handfull or so per mixer load on small scale.
That's an impressive blog!! It really portrays the extent and level of effort involved in solo-building a house. I'd like to see something like that with all ferrocement construction (no airframe) - still, there were many handy tips for me.
and about the meshcrete, I think I have an old torn prom dress that would make a good start ;)
I'll bet you looked right smart in the prom dress in your day.
Remember this pix of Jonesy? :-?
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/ScreenShot020.jpg)
Now that tutu would make some nice meshcrete if we could just get it away from him. :)
Hang on a minute Mate, I've only just fixed the welding spark holes and now you want to get concrete all over it. How on earth am I supposed to get through tonight's performance of the nutcracker with a tutu in that condition? ;D
Life is tough all over, Jonesy.
I knew you were pretty good, but the nutcracker? and you in a mended tutu. I hope you don't ride your bike to your performance. In the meantime we'll have to find another source of lace for Bruce's meshcrete.
Here's another idea for you Bruce.. Add to your alternative concrete ideas. Fishnet.
Not too well documented but the ideas and enough info there to figure it out.
http://www.angelfire.com/in2/manythings/page5.html
Well, I'm going to stick my nose in here with some comments. Bruce, I like your design -- it's good to see people designing what works for *them* rather than generic ticky tacky boxes built with resale in mind! And I think the 'hijacking' and chit-chat is fun -- even though I don't drink coffee! ;D
I have two ideas for your house. First, how about adding a door on the wall next to the window seat, out of the hall there, and a porch there? It would give a different location for sitting outside in case the sun wasn't where you wanted it on your deck (too much, or not enough, depending on the weather).
Also, it looks like the bathroom *might* work better if you put the tub across the end wall, where the toilet is now. Then put the toilet next to the tub -- I think there's room for it on the wall between the bath and the hall. And put the sink counter where the tub is now. Right now it looks like there isn't much room between the tub and the sink counter -- I think the arrangement I've suggested might give a little more turning-around space. However, the best way to find out is to draw both arrangements to scale on graph paper!
Kathleen
Glenn, your mind is a treasurehouse of great ideas. I like the idea of nylon reinforcement as in successive laminations of meshcrete to distribute the tensile bearing members throughout the matrix. I'm exploring the engineering of a wall with 4 inch high density EPS as the core and multiple layers of meshcrete on both sides - no steel in the recipe and minimal thermal conduction. I'm thinking about using nylon cord to sew the first doubled layer of mesh to the EPS (acts as wall ties). The doubled layer is laid horizontal and vertical to make the tensile charistics more continuous (much like the overlap of the typical rebar). I think the concept works like a stressed skin structure. I want to use maximise the meshcrete on the inside for thermal mass and have only enough on the outside to protect the EPS from weather and impact damage (hail).
I'm having a difficult time locating usable "material strength" data that I can apply to my design. I find plenty of empirical examples specifying #3 to #5 rebar for particular structural locations and not enough information about matching strength to anticipated loads. I observe that many designs appear way over-built with the rebar capable of all the compressive and tensile loads while the cement merely "chinks" the gaps in the rebar. The typical rebar structure is strong enough to support all the wet cement load placed quickly. I'll basically be working alone and using manual methods, so I can allow yesterday's initial set to support today's placement (very much the way Bill Birdsall described in the link you provided).
Kathleen, thanks for your comments about the bathroom layout, I'll have to think about it some more. I put the tub in that location so doubled floor joists would support it and the cantilevered windowseat. The scale is fairly close on that drawing and while the bathroom is not exactly spacious, there would be enough elbow room. It's not consistent with universal design principles, so I hope I never need a wheelchair.
The door idea is really good and I played with that option, but never found anything I liked. The 14 foot wall behind the recliner area is somewhat temporary. In the next phase of the house development, there would be a "great room" attached there and the entire wall would be open for good access to the kitchen. The great room would have doors to access the yard area outside the windowseat. Eventually, this yard area would be a small private courtyard.
I still like this design even though right now I'm exploring alternative options with ferrocrete. It's interesting that there are no "perfect" house designs - everything is at best balanced compromises. Perhaps perfect designs live only in 4 dimensional space-time.
QuoteGlenn, your mind is a treasurehouse of great ideas
I don't know Bruce - maybe more of an abyss.
In India, there are concrete shell structures reinforced with Hessian - (jute )- that are spanning up to 60 feet with concrete and no steel.
You will not find engineering data on a lot of this stuff as it is low cost. Money drives engineering firms, corporations that manufacture goods to seel to consumers, testing agencies, permit agencies and taxing entities.
No one is going to spend tens to hundreds of thousands of dollars on testing low cost alternative building, therefore we are often stuck with doing our own testing and experimenting or relying on the works of like minded individuals. This requires doing things in non-regulated areas or under the radar.
Ken Kern published information about the light duty concrete floor used in India. Rated at 40 to 50 lbs per foot but in use would support 250 per foot using jute and concrete less than 1" thick.
I posted this in Rainwater Harvest but it's a good tutorial on ferrocrete also. http://www.eng.warwick.ac.uk/DTU/pubs/tr/rwh/rwhtr01/tr01.html