In the 20" 1 ½ story cottage where should the legers that support the loft terminate: half way between two studs, in the center of a stud or does it not matter?
Thanks, M
If it's let into the studs I'd go one full bay beyond the last joist and end it on a full stud.
If it's not let in I'd kill it right at the end / under the last joist , and let it cantilever from the last stud it crossed over.
The first option would be my preference.
Let me re-ask this question as I won't being clear initially. Two questions really:
A) Where should I terminate a ledger in the middle of the wall? I won't be using 30' ledgers so I have to terminate it at some point. See the red circled portion in Image A below, this is depicting ending the ledger between two joists, for example.
B) Where should I terminate the ledger at the end of the wall? See the red circled portion Image B below, this is depicting ending the ledger at the outer edge of the outermost stud, for example.
Thanks, M
Mish I only see image "A" which shows a non- let in ledger , I'd cut that ledger off flush with the upper floor joist IF that where the loft ends .
IF your asking about where to joint two pieces of ledger in image "A" just as shown would work just butt the end of the next piece to the one shown and bolt them into every stud ,
If it where a let in ledger I'd put any / all joints split on a stud.
The difference's in let in and a non let in ledger are the knotch 'in a let in ledger , is doing the holding up part , on a non let in ledger the bolt is holding the ledger up as well as in / to the wall .
I'd fear splitting the stud IF you had to drive four bolts (two in each ledger , into one stud.
Hope it helps , off to work . G/L PEG
So I removed the loft joists and colored the ledger and now you can see it is let in. So if I ended one ledger and butted it up against the next, like show below with the red and blue ledgers, that would be ok?
Thanks, M
That would work, but I think I would put in a backer block behind that joint and toenail it into the side studs. Then put four or more nails into it from the front. That would brace the joint enough to carry a full load. But remember... I'm not a real carpenter. :)
Quote
If it where a [highlight]let in ledger[/highlight] I'd [highlight]put any / all joints split on a stud. [/highlight]
Hope it helps , off to work . G/L PEG
Hate to quote myself but like I said, [highlight]let in ledger put the joints on[/highlight] the stud 3/4" , nail to stud with 3ea. 16 d nails.
Nice computer work BTW , wish I could do that :-[
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/apr145.jpg)
There's a splice over the left hand side of the window , I had a choice to splice over / on a 4x6 in this case but right on a 2x6 would work as well.
QuoteThat would work, but I think I would put in a backer block behind that joint and toenail it into the side studs. Then put four or more nails into it from the front. That would brace the joint enough to carry a full load. But remember... I'm not a real carpenter. :)
Sure it would work but it wouldn't look clean and would be more work. Holding that butt block to nail it would be a pain, and I could see a guy with a nail gun nailing a hand when nailing it in place when the nails came thur the back side.
Glad you remembered John, that yer not a carpenter Eh! ;D ;D
Ahhhh, ok. The photo and the re-iteration helped. Just to confirm it should be like this image below (those cylinders are meant to represent where the 16d nails would be driven)
There ya go :)
Yep, even I can see that that is a better way to go! 8-)
Cool, thanks!