Well, we signed the papers this afternoon on 11 acres. 10 acres of hardwoods and 1 acre of swamp. The plan is to build a 12x16 with a loft. This will be my hunting cabin, although I'm sure that I'll spend more days there than not ::). My wife is worried that I'll just dissapear into the woods one day and never come back.
I read some of the regulations of this site and saw that a title should include a cabin size, so I started a new post here.
If I have one complaint about this site, it's that I can watch a cabin go up in a day or two of reading and lurking here. I'm afraid that doing this myself will be a slower process. I have some physical limitations as well as financial. This is where you all pull out your hankees and cry me a river ;).
I've been like a kid at Christmas these last few days. I've stashed a few hunderd bucks and went buck wild on craigslist. I bought 3 new (small) vinyl windows for $50. I scavanged some 2x6 lumber for free and will pick up the rest at 25 cents a foot in the morning. I also bought 15 sheets of gently used plywood for $75.
The buying is easy. Now comes the hard stuff. I can use all the advise you all may have on setting the foundation. I'm on a very strict budget . I'm wondering what to expect in terms of cost for a sonotube foundation.
I'll try to post pics of the building site.
<a href="https://s871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/?action=view¤t=camera079.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera079.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
This is a natural clearing in the woods on a hill that overlooks the swamp.
My patient wife is helping me post this because I'm far better with a gun than a computer d*
4 ft. sonotube is about 10 bucks.
rebar should run about another $10, maybe a little more.
concrete for about a 3 ft. pier and 24 in. footer should run about 20 bucks or so, less if you mix your own.
bracket for beam can vary- $10 to $20 each is about what I've seen.
So I'd figure on about $50- $70 per pier (for that size)- plus whatever you want to add for your sweat and labor.
The formula I use for estimating how long a particular job will require is to guess what the very longest I think it will take, then times that by 3... or 4. Works for me!
Here's the image... (use the IMG tags, not the webpage ones, in photobucket. click and copy, then paste in message here)
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera079.jpg)
Nice clearing... a meadow to me.
Quote from: Tom on June 11, 2010, 09:22:08 PM
Well, we signed the papers this afternoon on 11 acres. 10 acres of hardwoods and 1 acre of swamp. The plan is to build a 12x16 with a loft. This will be my hunting cabin, although I'm sure that I'll spend more days there than not ::). My wife is worried that I'll just dissapear into the woods one day and never come back.
I read some of the regulations of this site and saw that a title should include a cabin size, so I started a new post here.
If I have one complaint about this site, it's that I can watch a cabin go up in a day or two of reading and lurking here. I'm afraid that doing this myself will be a slower process. I have some physical limitations as well as financial. This is where you all pull out your hankees and cry me a river ;).
I've been like a kid at Christmas these last few days. I've stashed a few hunderd bucks and went buck wild on craigslist. I bought 3 new (small) vinyl windows for $50. I scavanged some 2x6 lumber for free and will pick up the rest at 25 cents a foot in the morning. I also bought 15 sheets of gently used plywood for $75.
The buying is easy. Now comes the hard stuff. I can use all the advise you all may have on setting the foundation. I'm on a very strict budget . I'm wondering what to expect in terms of cost for a sonotube foundation.
I'll try to post pics of the building site.
Awesome! I can't wait to watch! And don't worry about the appearance that some cabins go up fast! At ten months - yues TEN MONTHS (I'm still just getting the exterior finished! I think at the one year mark we'll have a party and start the interior :)
Take your time and have fun!
For that small you might try using 4X4 PT posts covered in tar. That is what I used.
(http://<a%20href="https://s871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/?action-view¤t=camera079.jpg"%20target="_blank"><img%20src="https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera079.jpg"%20border="0"%20alt="Photobucket"></a>)
OK, I'm running solo on this picture posting thing. The wife has left me unattended. SUCH a dangerous thing to do.
Progress is slow, but it's progress. If wet weather isn't in my low back and legs, I can manage 3 to 4 hours of work before I'm done in. I love the sound of that Stihl 029 singing out on a clear day [chainsaw]
I'm 95% finished clearing a driveway back to where the cabin will be. Now I need to get back out there and and witch for water. The water isn't hard to find, but finding a vane within easy reach may take longer. I'd like to put in a hand pump inside, but I don't know how hard it will be to drive a well point. Has anyone done this by hand? My other option would be to place the cabin near the water vane so that the pump sets outside the door.
Next week I'll clear an area. I'll have a slope to build on. How important is it to put gravel down under the cabin?
Thanks for your input.
Trying again(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera096.jpg)
(http://[img]https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera096.jpg)
[/img]
After a great deal of rain here in Michigan, I could no longer navigate the hill onto my property so I called a guy to come and move some dirt for an access. Unfortunately, it was too wet for him to complete the job. He was spinning around with his equipment. He told me that he'd come back after we've had some dry weather
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera096.jpg)
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/cabin/camera099-1.jpg)
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/cabin/camera100-1.jpg)
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/cabin/camera103.jpg)
The good news is that I did get a start on the cabin site. I used a post hole digger and found dirt that seemed about the same as what they spread out on a gravel road. I managed to get about 3 feet deep before I couldn't go any deeper. I'm hoping that this will be good enough to deal with the frost this winter.
Tomorrow I'll fill the holes with pea gravel and set the piers.
I did manage to find a few water vanes and as far as i can tell, they're at about 30 feet. Unfortunately, with this gravel soil, I don't think that pounding a well down will be possible. At some point I'll have to have someone come in.
What do you mean "I did manage to find a few water vanes" ? ??? ???
Water vanes can be "witched". Most anyone can witch for water.
Is that the same as "dowsing" (SP?) and if so how can you tell how deep the vein is?
Ok, I debated as to whether or not to post this. You all are going to think I'm nuts. However, if this helps someone then it's worth it.
When I first heard of water witching 25 years ago, I thought it was something invented for TV... something that only hillbillys like Jed Clampett would believe. It was funnier yet when I heard how this all worked. The only reason why I even went along to watch this guy witch for water was because he was one of those quiet, never brag kind of men. It wasn't like him to spin a tall tale or to ever draw attention to himself. He had lived on a farm all of his life. In the 30 years that I've known him, I've never known him to lie.
He was helping out a guy at work (Jeff) who had a garden too far away from the house to bother with all that hose. Jeff had a separate pump for watering the vegetables. His well was drying up and so he asked Ed to find him water.
Ed took 2 pieces of coat hanger, each about 15 inches long. He bent them in the middle, into an "L" shape. Then he held them loosely in his hands (one in each hand) so that the wires were pointing straight out in front of him. He walked slowly around the garden until the wires both pointed inward. Ed said that he had found water.
Ed then took a standard hand saw with a wooden handle on it and knelt down over the spot holding the saw with both hands by the tip with his thumbs on top. He held it steady until the handle began to bob up and down (maybe an inch or so). He counted the "bobs" until it stopped. Each bob was 1 foot.
I laughed and told him that I wasn't going to fall for this and look like a fool at work when word got out that I suckered for it. Ed smiled and told me to ask Jeff how deep the water was when the well was sunk. 3 weeks later Jeff told me that Ed was right on the money and that he had asked for Ed's help because Ed has never been off by more than 1 foot.
If you doubt this, bend some wire and walk in your lawn. When the wires turn inward, you may not think I'm crazy. I can't tell you how this works, but it does.
This is kind of interesting:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rOqyMykIso
Intertesting. ??? The old guy (90-something)that sold us our land in the Jemez indicated where he had dowsed and found water.
He also told me where I should dig to find gold. I've always been skeptical. :-\
Maybe I need to try the buried water canister/bottle trick here in the desert myself.
I use a witching rod to located the things that aren't recorded. There are things in the ground that the city/county don't have the records of. If I'm digging through an area that I know has buried services that locates can't locate, the rod comes out. I use 1 rod but 2 are what most use that I've seen. 1 works every bit as well. It will point forward away from you till you cross the path of something. Then It will point across. It will pick up trench line of any kind or depth. water, power, a drain pipe or wood logs etc. If the earth has a void, it will cross. You don't need 2 rods. It doesn't have to be any thing special to work. Any old piece of wire any length will do. It has saved me from destroying many things over the years and saved a lot of time finding the unknown. I've used it to find water on my property where my cabin is.
People will still try to tell me it's hocus pocus and that ok with me if they believe to be. :)
I'm the kind of guy who enjoys a good practical joke... especially if I'm not on the receiving end ;D. I'm a born skeptic, and I don't mind at all if someone has doubts about this because I wouldn't have believed this if I hadn't seen Ed do this, or if I hadn't talked to several people that he witched water for.
It's hard to believe in something that you can't explain, but I'm a believer.
We are yet babes in the woods and just don't know it.
One thing I often tell people is this: If man, modern man, has been around this earth for 40,000 years and all we know about him is really the last 4000 or so....what was he doing the first 36,000 years? What did he know?
10,000 years ago there were men who could calculate the circumference of the Earth to within ONE YARD of accurate. Huh? Ya, that's right. You try it.
10,000 years ago Caucasian statues were built in South America.....um, how's that?
How were the pyramids made exactly?
You see there is so very little that we DO know and yet when something so simple as witching is done we are skeptical. Why? We don't even know how to build the pyramids for crying sake.
I think the problem today is that people think you have to have some kind of gizmo or technological wonder to do something like this -- while the cows face North and South with ease.....
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera108.jpg)
Here's the view from the front.
I plan on building 24 inches on center instead of 16. I'm assuming that this will be ok for the floor joist too. If not, I'm hoping that someone will advise me.
Take a look and let me know if you see any potential problems.
Thanks
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera106.jpg)
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera109.jpg)
Is 3/4 inch T&G standard for the floor?
3/4 T&G plywood on 24 centers is what I used for my floor. Some say it is a little spongy but mine feels plenty solid to me. I know that it is rated for that.
One consideration for 24 in. centers on the walls is that you may have to use thicker (heavier!) sheathing and drywall on the inside.
Looks good!
Tom unless you have already purchased your subfloor you might consider "Advantex" or "Surfloor" if you think it will be sometime before you get it under roof. Standard OSB will not hold up well when exposed to the elements.
I was going to ask when I go to Home Depot, if they had something that would stand up to the rain for a time. You saved me from looking like the green horn that I am.
Thanks Red.
Also to you Dug... I read through your project a few weeks ago. Your attention to detail has been an inspiration to me to not rush. I also know to buy an extra sheet of t&g because of your post.
Thanks guys!
I can't tell. Are you using 2x6's? It looks like you have 1ft of overhang on each side. That would make me guess you have a 10 ft span for your floor joist. I used No. 2 SPF for the span calculation (because that is the most common at home depot) and came up with a maximum span of 8 ft @ 24 in on center. I wouldn't recommend it.
Also. It looks like you spliced your built up beams in a spot that is unsupported. I'm not trying to be critical, just trying to pass along some pointers that have been pointed out to me. Hope it helps.
FIRST... I don't hear anything as criticism. I appreciate your input. Without this site, I doubt that I'd be able to pull this off.
Yes, I used 2x6. The runners are doubled and where it's spliced, it's glued and screwed. Should I put a support under these spots?
Also correct on the 1 foot overhang with the 10 foot span. I had wondered about this as well and had already decided that I'm going to put concrete blocks under the center with a 4x4 to support the span. Thanks for pointing this out though.
Thanks
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera111.jpg)
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera113.jpg)
Ever see those Russian guys do that squat dance? Bet you're impressed that a broken down old fart like me can still pull this off, huh.
I'll fess up. The photo was strategically taken so you can hardly see the brick I'm sitting on.
The truth is, that I don't dance anymore. Th last time that I danced, I was tackled by a guy screaming, "Someone help me here... don't let him swallow his tongue". Apparently they thought I was having a convulsion :(
My buddy helped me with the floor today. Couldn't have done this without him. I'm sure I'll be calling on him again. I told him that the second key would be his when the place is done.
I have a question...
I know that the sheeting is part of the structural integrity, but I'm also on a tight budget. Is 3/4 inch siding written in stone or could I go 1/2 inch. Also, what thickness for roof sheeting?
Thanks
Quote from: Tom on July 01, 2010, 10:00:43 PM
I have a question...
..... or could I go 1/2 inch. Also, what thickness for roof sheeting?
Thanks
1/2 inch for where? Walls? 7/16 OSB or 1/2 plywood is pretty normal. Roofs can be that as well. 5/8 roof sheathing is sturdier, but many build with the 7/16 or 1/2.
We used 7/16 OSB for both, 24" OC for the walls and 16" OC for the roof. For the porch roof which is exposed underneath we used 1/2 plywood as OSB is not rated for weather exposure.
Tom generally 1/2 or it's equal is used on walls both for exterior sheeting and drywall and 5/8" is for roof sheeting and ceiling drywall. If you are going with 24OC I would not go any less with either. The 5/8 for the roof will not sag between rafters as 1/2" has a tendency to do and give you a little more biting surface for shingles or screws for metal.
Quote from: Tom on June 25, 2010, 02:41:38 PM
Ok, I debated as to whether or not to post this. You all are going to think I'm nuts. However, if this helps someone then it's worth it.
When I first heard of water witching 25 years ago, I thought it was something invented for TV... something that only hillbillys like Jed Clampett would believe. It was funnier yet when I heard how this all worked. The only reason why I even went along to watch this guy witch for water was because he was one of those quiet, never brag kind of men. It wasn't like him to spin a tall tale or to ever draw attention to himself. He had lived on a farm all of his life. In the 30 years that I've known him, I've never known him to lie.
He was helping out a guy at work (Jeff) who had a garden too far away from the house to bother with all that hose. Jeff had a separate pump for watering the vegetables. His well was drying up and so he asked Ed to find him water.
Ed took 2 pieces of coat hanger, each about 15 inches long. He bent them in the middle, into an "L" shape. Then he held them loosely in his hands (one in each hand) so that the wires were pointing straight out in front of him. He walked slowly around the garden until the wires both pointed inward. Ed said that he had found water.
Ed then took a standard hand saw with a wooden handle on it and knelt down over the spot holding the saw with both hands by the tip with his thumbs on top. He held it steady until the handle began to bob up and down (maybe an inch or so). He counted the "bobs" until it stopped. Each bob was 1 foot.
I laughed and told him that I wasn't going to fall for this and look like a fool at work when word got out that I suckered for it. Ed smiled and told me to ask Jeff how deep the water was when the well was sunk. 3 weeks later Jeff told me that Ed was right on the money and that he had asked for Ed's help because Ed has never been off by more than 1 foot.
If you doubt this, bend some wire and walk in your lawn. When the wires turn inward, you may not think I'm crazy. I can't tell you how this works, but it does.
Tom, when you hold the saw is it held more of less backwards so that you are holding the tip instead of the handle or is it flat like its lying on a table with the handle farthest from the dowser? I just gave it a try the later way and if it works, I may have water at only 8 or 9 feet deep.
Thank you for the info on siding. I think I'll go with the 5/8 when I get to that point.
I managed to get a half of one wall put together today, but I was done in by time I was done and forgot to take a picture. I post when I can show some progress.
As for the question about water witching...
Take a standard size hand saw and hold it by the metal tip (handle away from you). Kneel down with the saw handle hovering about a foot off the ground. Hold it steady and still. It wil start to "bob". Each "bob" is one foot of depth. Yes, you would be holding it flat, as if it was lying on a table.
I'm not sure if you plan on going for the water at 9 feet, but if this would be for drinking, I'd find something deeper.
Hope this helps
Quote from: Tom on July 02, 2010, 05:43:39 PMTake a standard size hand saw and hold it by the metal tip (handle away from you). Kneel down with the saw handle hovering about a foot off the ground. Hold it steady and still. It wil start to "bob". Each "bob" is one foot of depth.
So in canada, do you have to get a metric size saw so that each bob is one meter? ???
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera116.jpg)
Made some headway this week
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera115.jpg)
For those who work alone, I'd recommend the Jaw Horse. My wife bought me this for Christmas. I can't say enough good about it.
I have some cripple studs to put in yet, and two more walls to finish. Most of this stuff is pretty straight foward. The thing that keeps me awake at night is trying to picture in my mind the best way to construct the loft beams.
I've been going through several threads in here, trying to see how some of you have done this, but I can't seem to find anything that makes it clear. If anyone has some good pictures of how you did yours, I'd appreciate your ideas.
Thanks
If you have the Enchilada plans (Builder's Cottage) to work from I have a 4x8 @ 48" o/c loft framing w/ 2x6 T&G decking detail that you could adapt. This can also be done w/ double 2x8's. It is important to get a proper connection between the rafter and this deck beam/rafter tie as it triangulates the roof structure.
Cool tool, Tom.
I may have to check out the Jaw Horse myself.
I forgot to take the camera last time out. I have the loft joists in (not pictured here).
Michigan has been very wet this year. I've been hoping for a dry spell so that I can get the sheeting on, but no luck.
How much rain can strandboard take before it begins to swell?
Next question...
This will be a 12-12 pitch. I plan on running an 8 inch beam, but can I go with 6 inch rafter boards?
Thanks for looking in.
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera121.jpg)
Tom if you are getting a great amount of rain I would consider giving it a coat of paint. You are at the stage now where there is no place to drain the water (wall partitions up). You might pay attention to any low spots in the floor where it will puddle and drill some drainage holes to keep it from pooling. I always stress "Advantex" as I know how long it takes to do a project when you are working by yourself. It is a small price difference and for me it has already paid for itself. As far as a time frame I really couldn't say only that it will first swell and then start flaking off.
Given the size I would say that you can get along with 2X6 as rafters although 2X8 would be a better choice. The only downside is that there is little room in the rafter cavity for insulation. Basicly you have 5-1/2". Deduct 1" for the styrofoam vents and that leaves you with 4-1/2". R-19 I believe is 6-1/4" and if you compress it into that space you will end up with around a R-16. The only way to get the value higher is using solid styrofoam or sprayed foam.
Thanks Red,
This is why I come here. Talk to me about 1 inch styro vents.
Tom I believe they are known as "raft-R-Mates" by Owens Corning. I can't get a seperate item picture but if you look at the home page below you will see them placed between the rafters. There are other manufacturers and usually cost about 75-90 cents a piece for a 4'X 24" piece. Pretty common where ever building products are sold. They can be seperated for a single width of 12" X 4' for 16 OC spacing. They are thin foam forms that are stappeled to the underside of the roof decking. They allow air to travel from the soffit to the ridge. That is of course if you have plans on finishing the attic area to a loft room. If not then you can use them in the area from the soffit to the top of your insulation in the attic. It prevents the insulation from cutting off the air flow from the soffit to the ridge vent. Hope it helps.
http://insulation.owenscorning.com/homeowners/
QuoteHow much rain can strandboard take before it begins to swell?
Based on my experience, one soaking is all it takes. Doesn't mean it's ruined though.
Thanks for your responses.
Do the kraft-R-mates come in 24 OC?
Tom they are made for 24"OC but can be split lengthwise at the perforation for 16".
I installed mine only at the bottom where the insulation would be compressed. It was 6" insulation in an 8" rafter.
(https://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/MaineRhino/misc/101_0615.jpg)
Thanks for the info. on the rafter-mates. The pics helped.
Well, being as I bought land with a swamp across it, my wife said that I'd better buy something to cross the swamp with. I told her it wasn't needed as long as she was willing to drag deer through the swamp for me this fall. My shin is healing nicely ;D
The only problem with this vehicle is that is won't fit in our utility trailer, so I bought an old wreck of a trailer for $100. I fixed the tire, tore off the old planking, painted the rust with Navel Jelly, patched the holes in the frame with angle iron, painted it up and put new planks down. Then I built ramps up over the wheels because it wouldn't fit between.
This thing isn't fast (25 mph) but it's a riot to bomb around with.
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera125.jpg)
Quote from: Tom on July 21, 2010, 05:06:57 PM
I forgot to take the camera last time out. I have the loft joists in (not pictured here).
Michigan has been very wet this year. I've been hoping for a dry spell so that I can get the sheeting on, but no luck.
How much rain can strandboard take before it begins to swell?
Next question...
This will be a 12-12 pitch. I plan on running an 8 inch beam, but can I go with 6 inch rafter boards?
Thanks for looking in.
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera121.jpg)
Don't forget the trimmers under your headers before you load the roof. Nice clean job so far. Keep it and have fun with buggy!
Most of my progress so far has been from working alone. It's been an exercise is learning and in frustration. Don't get me wrong; I've enjoyed this project, but coming to terms with my limitations is frustrating. I never minded helping others out, but asking for help was never easy and therefore I rarely did.
My wife (Rainelle) worries. She sees me gimp around after working and keeps pushing me to ask for help, but I'm too stubborn/proud. I come here and ask for advice, but somehow the anonymity of the internet helps.
My friends all began calling me last night to ask what to bring and what time to show up. Without telling me, Rainelle spent the past week rounding them up.
The weather man is calling for a 50% chance of rain today. The goal is to get this dried in today.
This post is a thanks to all of you as well as a thanks to my wife and my good friends who will give up their Saturday for me.
Well, the sun is coming up. I'd better get my day started.
Pictures to come.
There's no shame in needing a little help. That's what friends are for.
As I approach the half century mark myself, I find that my mind is writing checks that my body can no longer cash. Such is life. d*
It's looking good so far.
Looks like you're doing just fine, working alone! I was looking at getting some transportation while up at my place - quad, and then I saw some of those 6X's for sale. They look like they'd be a gas to run around it. My problem is that I don't have much water around my place, and I think I need the power of a quad... I love the color of yours tho!
My guess is that you will want to line up some help for the roof. Mine is 12:12 also, and I've tried at least twice to get up there and get started on it by myself, and chickened out both times. I'm giving up and calling in the cavalry for help.
Getting the sheathing on shouldn't be that much of a problem, once you get to it.
Well, the day began with clouds and then rain, and then sun. Welcome to Michigan. If you don't like the weather, just wait a bit.
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera131.jpg)(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera127.jpg)
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera132.jpg)
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera136.jpg)
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera140.jpg)(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera139.jpg)
Lots of laughter with good comapny
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera141.jpg)
I always enjoy the pictures that people post here, so I try to add as many as possible.
I wish that I had taken pictures of the interior, but those will come.
All I can say is that I'm humbled by the kindness of my family and friends. I'm also grateful to all of you who have inspired me and who have added your advice
Good friends are hard to come by. Maybe they will return someday to lend another hand. You made good progress.
I really liked the idea of a 12-12 roof, because I'm no builder, and it makes the math easy. I also like the loft space, but like everything in life, there are trade offs. Roofing a pitch like that isn't easy. I was glad for some help when I got to the second side.
Putting the Tyvek on alone was an excercise in frustration. The side peaks are going alright, but it's so hard to keep things straight. Each time a wind came up, I'd look Heavenward and remind God that I'm trying to do this without the bad words ;) So, if the Tyvek looks a bit messy, it's because I did it alone, and only fell off the ladder once... fortunately it was only a 5 foot fall. I'd post the pics of the bruises, but no one wants to see my old butt [shocked]
Sorry for the mess. I need to police the area soon
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera146.jpg)(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera147.jpg)
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera143.jpg)
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera144.jpg)
Looking good. :)
QuotePutting the Tyvek on alone was an excercise in frustration.
I can relate. I picked the windiest of spring days to install my felt paper solo. Just when I had a 20 ft. section lined up and ready to nail a gust would blow, rip the paper, and I would have to start anew. I know things can get a little wacky working alone but I swear the wind seemed to laugh at me!
Rest assured it will make no difference once it is covered with siding. :)
I just picked up 160 sq. feet of hardwood flooring for $150 off craigslist. I need 200 sq. feet, but I figured that I could put some tiles down by the doors to make up for the shortfall.
I've seen the nailer that they use to put the wood floors down, but I'm wondering if I could glue it instead. I'd be interested in your thoughts.
Thanks
Quote from: Tom on August 15, 2010, 09:58:51 AM
I just picked up 160 sq. feet of hardwood flooring for $150 off craigslist. I need 200 sq. feet, but I figured that I could put some tiles down by the doors to make up for the shortfall.
I've seen the nailer that they use to put the wood floors down, but I'm wondering if I could glue it instead. I'd be interested in your thoughts.
Thanks
Tom personally I would not glue it down. The wood will want to move and it might come loose. If you cannot rent a nailer you can install it with a finish nailer based on the same principle as the flooring nailer.
Progress is slow, but at least it's progress.
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera149.jpg)
I picked up 160 sq. feet of hardwood floor for $150. I'm looking forward to getting to the point where I can get it out of the storage shelf, and onto the floor
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera152.jpg)
(https://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/tajans/camera151.jpg)
Looking great, moving along fast! I'm at a similar stage in my small cabin. I'm debating on weather to put in a ridge vent or someother type of vent for the loft. The cabin won't be insulated for a few years but eventually it might be.
Do I need a vent if it's not insulated? It will have a wood stove will all my heat get out if its vented?
Quote from: Solar Burrito on August 26, 2010, 03:33:09 PM
I'm debating on weather to put in a ridge vent or someother type of vent for the loft. The cabin won't be insulated for a few years but eventually it might be.
Do I need a vent if it's not insulated? It will have a wood stove will all my heat get out if its vented?
What is the space you are speaking of? A ridge vent is meant to ventilate the attic or the space between the interior cathedral ceiling, the insulation between the rafters and the roof sheathing. Or are you speaking about ventilating the actual loft living space?
Nice progress Tom.
I really like that loft and window up there.
Looking good!
Quote from: MountainDon on August 26, 2010, 06:34:05 PM
Quote from: Solar Burrito on August 26, 2010, 03:33:09 PM
I'm debating on weather to put in a ridge vent or someother type of vent for the loft. The cabin won't be insulated for a few years but eventually it might be.
Do I need a vent if it's not insulated? It will have a wood stove will all my heat get out if its vented?
What is the space you are speaking of? A ridge vent is meant to ventilate the attic or the space between the interior cathedral ceiling, the insulation between the rafters and the roof sheathing. Or are you speaking about ventilating the actual loft living space?
Ya the loft is the spot I'm talking about. Any need for a vent with no insulation?
Maybe I'm being a little thick today ??? I understand you to be saying you will not insulate between the rafters for a while. That you have a loft space directly under the rafters and roof sheathing. There is then no need for any ridge or roof venting at all. Of course on hot days it will get very hot. On cold days you might have moisture condense on the underside of the roof sheathing and that could cause a problem or discomfort. If things got very humid you might need to vent some interior air/humidity to the exterior. But if you install a ridge or other roof vents on a cool/cold day/night you'll also be venting off any heat to the outside.
So I think the question is really how are you planning on completing the insulation and the closing off of the cathedral ceiling space? That space may be required to be vented unless you are opting for one of the non-vented alternative construction method.
An opening window in the loft gable end could supply normal room ventilation as well as an emergency access/exit when sized correctly.
Does that help or am I off on a tangent that has no meaning to the original question?
Don, I understood this perfectly; of course, this may just mean that we're both nuts :).
I need to start making sure that I remember my camera each time I go out. I'm afraid that I missed some steps (on film).
Solar Burrito, If you go to the previous page, you'll see where Redoverfarm was kind enough to tell me about kraft-R-mates in the rafters. MaineRhino was also good enough to post pics of what Red was talking about. The pics should explain the venting system. Just make sure that you give the air a place to escape at the top, like a ridge vent.
The kraft-R-mates come in plastic or in styrofoam. I chose the plastic, just because I've seen the damage that mice can do to things.
The kraft-R-mates leave a small air space that vents off to the ridge vent. As Don points out, without venting the loft area, it would cause problems.
Arizona Highlander, Thanks. I bought all the windows off craigslist. I put a small one in each end of the loft. Being as I have no electric there, I figured that I'd do all I could to keep the air moving through there... especially during the polyurathane process [yuk]
Costs up to this point are (as near as I can figure) $3,900.
Hi all,
No more progress on the cabin. We moved to our new home and it's been busy. Deer hunting at the cabin was good. I filled my freezer. The only complaint was that the small heater that I used was not enough to make things comfortable.
After some thought, I'm thinking that my woodstove will take up too much floor space. I bought a used wall mounted propane heater, but haven't hooked it up yet.
I've been looking at my set up, and I'd like to pick your brains...
I'm built on a hill. I'd still like to use the woodstove, but I'm wondering if I could build a small brick enclosure down the hill from my cabin... maybe 6 or 8 feet. I was thinking maybe 4x4. It would be just for the stove. I'd run a heat vent up the hill and into the cabin.
Think the idea has any merit?
Nice work on the place! I'm enjoying reading about the place. Keep the pics coming!
On August 27th, 2010 Tom wrote: "Costs up to this point are (as near as I can figure) $3,900."
Wow Tom, that's excellent! Are you saying that you did your whole place, what I see in the pics, dried-in and all for less than $4000?
I've read your whole build all the way through so far, thank you for taking the time to tell your story. I'm about to begin the build story of my 14x24 place here in Oklahoma very soon. I'll keep ya'll informed. Thanks Tom.
Thanks for looking in. This seemed so much bigger than my own abilities. I got a lot of help and encouragement from everyone on this site.
To date, I have about $5,500 into the cabin.
Good luck on your cabin. It's a lot of work, but it's so satisfying when you can sit down and relax and say, "I built this".
I'm still looking for some input about the outdoor woodstove idea. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Hey Tom, I was wondering if you had any updates on your cabin. It was fun reading through your posts. I really thought you were Russian dancing there for a little while until I read your comment about the brick you were sitting on d* Way back, when I first started blogging on here about our build you asked me where in Michigan we were from, sorry I missed it then, we live in Holland and our cabin is four miles south of Thompsonville. Great job on your cabin so far!!
I appreciate you looking in. I wish that I had something to post here, but the sad fact is that I'm out of funds. I stopped to Menaards yesterday to price out siding, and what I found was that T1-11 will be about $500. Vinyl siding will be a bit cheaper. I'm still trying to decide.
Either way, I have a birthday, wedding anniversary and father's day all coming up within the next 2 weeks, and I've asked for gift cards so that I can get some siding on.
Holland is pretty close. If you ever want to stop out to take a look, let me know.
Tom
Looking great! I'm thinking of doing the same thing at the peak of our ceiling as you've done. It will give a nice channel to insulate as well as a place to mount lights or fans if desired.
Keep it up!