30x40 Earth Berm Passive Solar in Maine

[Bishopknight]

Hey John and Don,

I couldn't find a limit on the temp of the SBC. I decided to go for it after using the hammer claw on a test area. My assumption was that if it froze, it would make it brittle with low strength. This hasn't been the case yet so far.  It is a concern though and I only apply it when the temp is above 30 degrees. It dries very fast. I'm only going to apply SBC to one side for the winter. I'll do the other side in the spring. I'm not planning on berming it till atleast then anyways.

On another note, as previously mentioned, I've bought several Anderson 400 series windows off Craigslist , new, still in box, for 50-75% off Home Depots retail price. Granted, I've had to be flexible with the sizes but the quality and price can't be beat. I highly recommend it, especially in this economy, there is room to haggle.

Lastly, I wanted to mention that I found mixing the SBC on a sheet of plywood on the ground is much easier than mixing it in a wheelbarrow or plastic tub. I use a 4x8 sheet when mixing this or multiple bags of concrete. Its easier to flip and scoop with a shovel near the ground.

[MountainDon]

From Quikrete's website... look under Quikwall and download the spec-data sheet in pdf format...

PRECAUTIONS
• Do not apply QUIKWALL SBC when weather
is forecast to be above 100 degrees F
(38 degrees C) or below 40 degrees F
(4 degrees C) within 24 hours without
adapting required hot and cold weather
precautions

[MountainDon]

From Sakrete's website info on their SBC product...

CURING:
In hot weather lightly dampen the material as needed to promote adequate
curing. In cold weather adequately cover and keep from freezing for a minimum
of 24 hours. Protect from rain for 24 hours. Do not apply SAKRETE®
Surface Bonding Cement if temperature will fall below 50° F (10° C) within
24 hours.

[Bishopknight]

Thanks Don,

Again, it cured extremely well but just for peace of mind, I'm going to hold off applying anymore until spring.

The most important area to apply the SBC to is in the mid-interior section which I intentionally left for later. That's where the most tension would be under earth pressure.

Looking ahead, here's my estimated cost & todo list in order:

• Trusses - $2,400 + $500 labor cost
• Roof Sheathing & Gable ends - $1000 + $500 labor cost
• Shingle Roof / Typar walls - $1000
• Install windows & door - $600 est remaining, already have most of the windows
• Woodstove - $600
• Finish applying SBC
• Interior framing - $0, bought the material already. Should have waited
• Plumbing - $100
• Electrical - $300
• Insulation - $800
• Drywall - $800
• Interior doors & trim - $400

There's certainly other things I haven't thought of on that list but I rarely look this far ahead because it can get intimidating to imagine all the work ahead. All the interior work will be done by me to save on labor costs.

The goal right now is just to get it shelled in for winter.

[glenn kangiser]

BK, Just me but if you have warm enough temps I would want to get the blocks bonded together especially if you are putting the trusses on them.  Are they locking type blocks?  Seems I read that you did put a bond beam and rebar to help tie things together. 

I'm concerned about bracing on the loose blocks with all of that weight and possible wind problems.  I assume sheathing on the front can provide bracing as well as interior walls?

[Bishopknight]

Well thats what Runar said too. That even if its a little too cold to apply the SBC, its better to get those block walls stabilized. Granted, there is a top course which is cemented and rebared. They're not locking types btw.

I could pick up a 20lb propane tank this weekend and a heater and try to keep it on all night long. But i'm not sure how much good that will do if I cover more than an 8' length of wall. Thats probably the smart thing to do though. Tarp above the area and heat it overnight.

I went ahead and ordered 8 trusses (1 gable end and 7 scissor). That will cover the top plated areas. That's all I could afford right now. I'm applying for a $10,000 loan so I can get it weatherproofed before any more snow hits. 

[MountainDon]

I could pick up a 20lb propane tank this weekend and a heater and try to keep it on all night long. But i'm not sure how much good that will do if I cover more than an 8' length of wall. Thats probably the smart thing to do though. Tarp above the area and heat it overnight.

That is what I see builders do back home in Canada. One thing to look out for though with propane fired construction/industrial heaters is that many of them won't operate off anything less than a 100# tank. THe volume of propane used can cause frosting problem in the regulator when used with smaller tanks. Check with a tool rental outfit.

[speedfunk]

Well thats what Runar said too. That even if its a little too cold to apply the SBC, its better to get those block walls stabilized. Granted, there is a top course which is cemented and rebared.

I could pick up a 20lb propane tank this weekend and a heater and try to keep it on all night long. But i'm not sure how much good that will do if I cover more than an 8' length of wall. Thats probably the smart thing to do though. Tarp above the area and heat it overnight.

Hey BK... Freakin' nice job during these last few days!   

I just thought I'd share my experience with the SBC in cold.  We did the same exact thing during the same month (2yrs ago).  We were parging when it was well below freezing at times.  We built a roof over and used a combonation of a propane heater and 2" foam stacked against the wall with a giant tarp over everything and left it on during the cold nights.   We even worked under the tarp most like time when it was curing.  We did not have a problem with the concrete being weak , not one stressline crack in the whole wall.

My guess is that the lower it goes toward freezing the slower it cures, if for some reason the water in the concrete freezes it would then expand by volume and and weaken the sbc.  However there is a reaction going on in the concrete that generates some heat so even below 32 outside temps might be ok?  I'm not sure really but our wall is fine lol.

peace

[MaineRhino]

Hi Sean,  the place looks good and is going very fast, or so it seems!

After living through the Maine winter last year with 14'+ of snow, and 40% MORE predicted for this year, you may want to rethink the roof part. I thought I read that your roof will be 4/12, or maybe 6/12 shingled.
With this pitch, you will be shoveling the roof several times per winter. My house is 8/12, and the snow was 3' thick and solid ice on the bottom. Shoveling roofs is NO fun.




Even metal roofs at 4/12 will collect snow without it sliding off. In fact, I saw several metal roofs at 6/12 pitch with 2-3' of snow on them, and when it finally did slide off it made quite a pile!

Which brings me to the next observation....  The front windows look very low to the ground, and may be subject to damage if snow does slide off the front roof, or gets piled too close to the house.

If your place was left as-is for the winter, would it really damage anything? I know what it's like to build in the winter. (very)

Just my 2 cents.....

[Bishopknight]

Hey Troy and Jeff,

Thanks for the compliments.

Thats what I'm probably going to do, cover it and heat it on low, just to be safe.

Metal roof would be my preference, especially if I get this loan. I believe I only need strapping, not plywood sheathing if I do a metal roof. If anyone can confirm this, please feel free. That would balance out the cost of not having to buy roughly 40 sheets of CDX along with tar paper & shingles.

Hopefully 6/12 pitch will be sufficient with shingle or metal. Alot of people native to Maine have said it will be. I just wanted it at a pitch where I could build/maintain the roof myself safely and also put solar panels up on.

One of my friends tonight was asking me if it will cost about $100,000 to do the house. Frankly I think it will only cost about $30,000 to get it done, depending on how elaborate I make the kitchen look. My whole kitchen remodel in Dallas cost only $5,000. My old job threw out the SS dishwasher and I fixed it.

Before and After pics:










ED: images aren't showing and I don't see why not? - MD I copied them to photobucket - possibly blocked by his server? gk 

BK:Thanks Glenn, I tried it again. If you guys can't see the pics above, let me know.

[Redoverfarm]

BK I used sheeting on my roof and metal roofing for a couple different reasons.  One being critter & insect control.  Secondly condensation and insulation,  I used Titaninum Felt for an underlayment.  If you were going with a closed cell foam insulation then a stripped purlin would be great but I couldn/t afford the cost over convientional insulation.  Others may have additional thoughts but for me it made more sense. 

[MountainDon]

Condensation on the underside of a metal roof could be a problem without using sheathing and an underlayment. Not to say it can not be done. Probably the best way to get around the condensation with a purlin mounted metal roof is to have Icynene (or similar) foam sprayed on the underside of the metal. That also greatly reduces the rain noise. It's a pricey thing; not for a DIYer.

[glenn kangiser]

At least felt is reqd under the steel to prevent raining inside the house.

[Bishopknight]

Monday Update:

8 trusses were delivered this weekend and I had Sean and Runar help install them. Definitely a 3 man job. It was hard work. This is how we did it:

We brought the trusses in upside down so they'd fit through the doorway and sat them on the ends of the walls so they'd be ready. Next a 20" 2x6 was nailed to the top plate next to the OC marking. Then me and Sean got up on each end and held the truss ends while the strong guy (Runar) flipped the truss into place. Note: You get a sudden pull from the truss as it wants to slide away from you. Around a 50 lb sudden jerk. But one hand is enough to do it. Then when its flipped up, you take the metal truss bracers and lock the previous truss with the new truss, then nail the baseplate in place, then the bracers in place.

There's about 2" of snow and ice on the slab now. I want to get this shelled in before we get a big one. We're racing against the clock now. Crossing my fingers on this one. I just ordered the other 13 trusses so we're gonna go for it this weekend, that is, if mother nature will wait one more week for me.







I used the backhoe to lift the panels up



Staggering the sheathing for strength.


This is the easier way to lift sheathing up. Don't get me wrong, this is still a dangerous job, especially alone.


I can really feel the extra height the scissor trusses give me. Its going to feel very open. At $118 a truss each, there is no sense in making them yourself. The metal join plates would cost roughly $30 alone.

[ListerD]

 

Looking good!

[harry51]

Looks good! Here's hoping Mother Nature smiles upon you awhile longer!

[speedfunk]

yeah your right BK Those trusses are cheap.  Like it alot!  Good luck to getting shelled in.   Nice here today though   Sunny

[HomeschoolMom]

I love getting your updates!

This is a little off topic, but is there a way to do a story and half as a earth berm?

[Bishopknight]

Thanks everyone.

Michelle,

I certainly don't see why not. I could have made this a 1 1/2 story I suppose. Half vaulted, half box style. Personally, I've grown tired of living in boxes. I try to live "outside the box" 

[ScottA]

Looking good. Go man go!