peteh2833
Senior Member
  
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 294
Camp in Tionesta Pa
|
 |
« on: November 24, 2007, 01:03:34 PM » |
|
I am building the 1.5 story 20x30 camp. I have the piers done. I will be setting the built up beams directly on the concrete pier. What bracket should I use to anchor them to the pier? The beams will be 3 2x10's with 1/2 inch plywood in between. Thanks Pete
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Pittsburgh Pa for home
Tionesta Pa for Camp
|
|
|
PEG688
Master Craftsman
Journeyman
   
Offline
Posts: 3,078
Whidbey Island , Wa.
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: November 24, 2007, 03:00:17 PM » |
|
A CB66 would be nice ,  Or another version that would work would be ,  I think it's obvious the CB is stronger. So your planning on no post , meaning your piers will all be perfectly level to each other and poured at exactly the right height! You sure about that?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .
|
|
|
peteh2833
Senior Member
  
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 294
Camp in Tionesta Pa
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: November 24, 2007, 03:04:32 PM » |
|
The piers are already poured so i can't use the CB correct? 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Pittsburgh Pa for home
Tionesta Pa for Camp
|
|
|
MountainDon
Spam Hunter
Administrator
Journeyman
   
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 10,675
Jemez Mountains, NM; that's pronounced HEY-mess
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2007, 03:07:11 PM » |
|
The piers are already poured so i can't use the CB correct?  I was just going to ask that question. No, CB66's would be difficult to impossible now. What are the piers; poured concrete in a form, concrete blocks, round, square...?? size?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
My Cabin TopicStop Spam: use Report to Moderator link at bottom of forum posts.
|
|
|
PEG688
Master Craftsman
Journeyman
   
Offline
Posts: 3,078
Whidbey Island , Wa.
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: November 24, 2007, 03:09:09 PM » |
|
Opps  lets flush the CB66  . All ready poured humm , any photo's ? I'm sure there's a fix , so no bolt / rebar / nuttin sticking out of the pier top , just a concrete post? Rebar poured inside it 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .
|
|
|
MountainDon
Spam Hunter
Administrator
Journeyman
   
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 10,675
Jemez Mountains, NM; that's pronounced HEY-mess
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: November 24, 2007, 03:11:10 PM » |
|
Nice use of the new smileys, Paul 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
My Cabin TopicStop Spam: use Report to Moderator link at bottom of forum posts.
|
|
|
PEG688
Master Craftsman
Journeyman
   
Offline
Posts: 3,078
Whidbey Island , Wa.
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: November 24, 2007, 03:16:49 PM » |
|
Thanks Mtn D  peteh the second bracket I posted is epoxied in , or can be , it just happened the image I put up is shown epoxied into the pre poured pier / post / slab.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .
|
|
|
MountainDon
Spam Hunter
Administrator
Journeyman
   
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 10,675
Jemez Mountains, NM; that's pronounced HEY-mess
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: November 24, 2007, 03:18:47 PM » |
|
Is that EPB available in a 5 1/2" wide configuration?  (Can't find my simpson catalog  )
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: November 24, 2007, 03:46:08 PM by MountainDon »
|
Logged
|
My Cabin TopicStop Spam: use Report to Moderator link at bottom of forum posts.
|
|
|
MountainDon
Spam Hunter
Administrator
Journeyman
   
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 10,675
Jemez Mountains, NM; that's pronounced HEY-mess
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: November 24, 2007, 03:26:31 PM » |
|
I found the catalog and it appears that the EPB is only available as EPB44, for 4x4 posts. Maybe an AB66 would work?  Just need to drill the proper size hole and epoxy in an anchor bolt it uplift forces are a concern. It wouldn't offer much in the way of tipping resistance, but once the joists are secured that wouldn't matter as much.  Are you in a code compliance location?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
My Cabin TopicStop Spam: use Report to Moderator link at bottom of forum posts.
|
|
|
PEG688
Master Craftsman
Journeyman
   
Offline
Posts: 3,078
Whidbey Island , Wa.
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: November 24, 2007, 03:33:09 PM » |
|
Are you in a code compliance location?
Good point Mtn. D alway start in the beginning 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .
|
|
|
peteh2833
Senior Member
  
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 294
Camp in Tionesta Pa
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: November 24, 2007, 03:39:03 PM » |
|
OK Peg688, I poured 10" round tubes. I made 18"x18" and 6" deep footers about 40 inches down. I added to 2 pieces of rebar about 2 to 3 feet long going from the footer up into the tube. I didn't put the brackets in when it was wet because I wanted to make sure everything was square. Would the bracket work best or epoxy a piece of all thread into each pier and then up into each built up beam? I have pictures but they are home on my computer and I'm at work now. I can post later. Thanks Pete
Also no code compliance. No inspection.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: November 24, 2007, 03:56:13 PM by peteh2833 »
|
Logged
|
Pittsburgh Pa for home
Tionesta Pa for Camp
|
|
|
peteh2833
Senior Member
  
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 294
Camp in Tionesta Pa
|
 |
« Reply #11 on: November 24, 2007, 03:51:40 PM » |
|
My Uncle helped and is an experienced carpenter. I'm building this camp right next to a smaller camp that is already there and will eventually be attached by way of a breezeway. We used a water level to mark each tube after they were set. We then cut each tube down to the mark and poured them. They should be all level. Pete
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: November 24, 2007, 03:54:12 PM by MountainDon »
|
Logged
|
Pittsburgh Pa for home
Tionesta Pa for Camp
|
|
|
MountainDon
Spam Hunter
Administrator
Journeyman
   
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 10,675
Jemez Mountains, NM; that's pronounced HEY-mess
|
 |
« Reply #12 on: November 24, 2007, 03:53:03 PM » |
|
I did put the brackets in when it was wet because I wanted to make sure everything was square.
I'm not following that statement? Should that read "did not put" ?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
My Cabin TopicStop Spam: use Report to Moderator link at bottom of forum posts.
|
|
|
peteh2833
Senior Member
  
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 294
Camp in Tionesta Pa
|
 |
« Reply #13 on: November 24, 2007, 03:57:15 PM » |
|
Sorry I fixed it. It should have been didn't.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Pittsburgh Pa for home
Tionesta Pa for Camp
|
|
|
PEG688
Master Craftsman
Journeyman
   
Offline
Posts: 3,078
Whidbey Island , Wa.
|
 |
« Reply #14 on: November 24, 2007, 04:01:16 PM » |
|
That's what I was trying to figger out as well Don  I assume did NOT was intended. Well with no code to meet and what you've described is a solid post and pier setup , I'd epoxy into the pier a piece of Galv. threaded 5/8 rod into the concrete at least 8 " that sticks up at least 1" above the beam tops ( if it's to long you can cut it off , the projecting rod , later with a sawsall) then you could use a piece of steel bar stock 1/4 thick and as wide as you built up beam , so a 1/4"x 5 1/2" x 5 1/2" steel washer at each post to beam connection .
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .
|
|
|
peteh2833
Senior Member
  
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 294
Camp in Tionesta Pa
|
 |
« Reply #15 on: November 24, 2007, 04:08:11 PM » |
|
Thanks for the compliments on the solid base. I was wondering if it was good enough!!! I understand the part about the all thread. drill into the pier and then drill through the beam. The 1/4 steel stock is the hangup. Do u mean make a square washer as wide as the beam out of the 1/4 stock and then put that on top of the all thread and tighten it down with a nut?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Pittsburgh Pa for home
Tionesta Pa for Camp
|
|
|
PEG688
Master Craftsman
Journeyman
   
Offline
Posts: 3,078
Whidbey Island , Wa.
|
 |
« Reply #16 on: November 24, 2007, 04:33:39 PM » |
|
Thanks for the compliments on the solid base. I was wondering if it was good enough!!! I understand the part about the all thread. drill into the pier and then drill through the beam. The 1/4 steel stock is the hangup. Do u mean make a square washer as wide as the beam out of the 1/4 stock and then put that on top of the all thread and tighten it down with a nut?
YUP! That will hold"er" down and stop it from tipping over. I'm no engineer but you don't need one if you have no code to meet . Ask your uncle what his plan was , he may have a better idea , but I'm sure that threaded rod and washer / nut setup will meet and /or exceed your needs for a positive tie.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .
|
|
|
peteh2833
Senior Member
  
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 294
Camp in Tionesta Pa
|
 |
« Reply #17 on: November 24, 2007, 04:55:26 PM » |
|
I'm pretty sure that is what he had planned. He won't always be there to assist me so I figured I should get a start on it. Thanks Peg688 for all the help. You too Mountain Don What do you recommend putting between the beam and the concrete as a barrier? Also do you think I should use pressure treated for the beam and joists???
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Pittsburgh Pa for home
Tionesta Pa for Camp
|
|
|
PEG688
Master Craftsman
Journeyman
   
Offline
Posts: 3,078
Whidbey Island , Wa.
|
 |
« Reply #18 on: November 24, 2007, 05:12:25 PM » |
|
#1: What do you recommend putting between the beam and the concrete as a barrier?
#2: Also do you think I should use pressure treated for the beam and joists???
#1: 30 lbs felt or a piece of comp shingle. #2: Not needed if it's all under the cabin , no cantilevered deck joist or other "uncovered " porch ares are there? If that answer is no the PT lumber is not needed. You are up in the air /off the ground at least 6 " minimum right?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .
|
|
|
peteh2833
Senior Member
  
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 294
Camp in Tionesta Pa
|
 |
« Reply #19 on: November 24, 2007, 06:21:18 PM » |
|
No cantilevered areas or uncovered areas. It is up off of the ground by at least 6". Thanks for the help. My next problem to tackle is how to insulate the floor joists?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Pittsburgh Pa for home
Tionesta Pa for Camp
|
|
|
|