Ridge beam questions

Started by cedarglen, October 21, 2007, 12:49:35 PM

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cedarglen



I am getting ready to put my roof on. I am building the universal 2 story at 20x32 feet. Regarding the ridge beam, can I use two 16' boards butted together in the center? If I do this won't leave any ridge hanging out the ends of the house for the 18 inch overhang. Is it OK to just put an outrigger at the very top of each end rafter to give us something to support the sheithing in the peak of the eves?

Do I have to make the splice in the ridge be cut on a 45 degree angle so the two pieces lap? If so I would need something longer than a couple of 16' boards right? My ridge is a 2x12 (snow area) so finding 2x12x20's would take some time. In that case would two splices be OK?

Chuck

PEG688

#1
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I am getting ready to put my roof on. I am building the universal 2 story at 20x32 feet.

#1: Regarding the ridge beam, can I use two 16' boards butted together in the center?

#2: If I do this won't leave any ridge hanging out the ends of the house for the 18 inch overhang.

#3: Is it OK to just put an outrigger at the very top of each end rafter to give us something to support the sheithing in the peak of the eves?

#4: Do I have to make the splice in the ridge be cut on a 45 degree angle so the two pieces lap?

#5: If so I would need something longer than a couple of 16' boards right?

 #6: My ridge is a 2x12 (snow area) so finding 2x12x20's would take some time.

 #7: In that case would two splices be OK?



#1: You could BUT, see below.

#2: Your right.

#3: You can , but it's not the best way to do it.

#4:  No a butt joint centered on rafter lay out is fine.

#5:  Or 3 ea. 12' pieces , it may be best to get 1 /14'  and  2/12' ones that way you can start your lay out from one end , figuring in your over hang ,

   A)    this of course can be complicated by asking will your soffits be enclosed or open ?

   B)    If open will you be using a paint / finish grade plywood for that overhang area , or are you good with seeing common old CDX or OSB sheathing when looking up from below?

 So answer 5: A &B and proceed  accordingly.  For your exact lay out starting point.

Generally the part that over hangs on the ridge board is ripped down to 5 1/2" , the outrigger part , looks better that way . It is still wide enough to nail your rake / verge / barge board to and also to return a "finished " soffit into.

#6:  Don't bother see  #'s 4 & 5.

#7: Yes  see above notes 1 -6.


Simple eh :) So what don't you understand that I said  :-[ I know it's all in builder terms , refer to a good framing book for definitions , or re ask to specific # and I'll eloborate.  ;)
 
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


cedarglen

Peg, thank you so much for your help. You have been more help than my local building inspector (he doesn't answer questions, he just fails you on inspections and then possibly will recommend how to fix the mistakes he could have prevented).

Based on what you wrote I am leaning toward:

A ridge board spliced from three 2x12's, allowing it to hang over 18" on each end. Since I am buying another 2x12 I might as well splice them with a 45 degree joint right? Any problem with putting the ridge up one section at a time, installing the rafters to hold it in place and then the next section of ridge, it's rafters, then the last section and it's rafters (instead of raising the entire ridge at once, since it is just wimpy me and my senior citizen dad doing this project),

Redgarding the plywood in the under eve area, is OSB going to be OK if it is painted? No long term problems? I'm not worried about the way it looks from the ground (is is so high I can't see it). The soffits are enclosed.

PEG688

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  #1: a) Peg, thank you so much for your help.

        b)  You have been more help than my local building inspector (he doesn't answer questions, he just fails you on inspections and then possibly will recommend how to fix the mistakes he could have prevented).



 #2:  Since I am buying another 2x12 I might as well splice them with a 45 degree joint right?

 #3   Any problem with putting the ridge up one section at a time, installing the rafters to hold it in place and then the next section of ridge, it's rafters, then the last section and it's rafters (instead of raising the entire ridge at once, since it is just wimpy me and my senior citizen dad doing this project),

 #4:    Redgarding the plywood in the under eve area, is OSB going to be OK if it is painted?

 #5:    No long term problems?

 #6:   I'm not worried about the way it looks from the ground (is is so high I can't see it).


 #7:The soffits are enclosed.

#1: a) Your welcome , your thanks is very nice payment. More folks should be like you.

      b) Typical of most inspectors , IMO most never where very good builders anyway , at least the ones I've known as both. The trades are better off with out them in the field. YMMV and sorry if this offends any inspectors out there it's just my opinion.

#2: No in fact a butt joint as long as it is centered on the rafter lay out is better . You've trapped it (the ridge) between two opposing rafters and it butted length Wise  also trapping it a 45 deg. splice could,  in theory , slide apart. A butt joint in this case is the proper joint, IMO.

#3: No that's the way to do it , with two men it can get dicey getting the first 4 rafters up , a third or if possible 4th helper on rafter day with a green crew would be a good idea.

 





Theses photos don't show what I really need to show you , but use props to hold the ridge up , it doesn't have to be spot on for height , as you add the rafters they will set the height of the ridge.  I put two rafters one on either end of the ridge on the same side of the roof , then lift it up and prop it ( solidly) if you can't hold it up  then set the two opposing rafters . If all your layout cutting was right the ridge will find it's center.

Always fill in the remaining rafters equally as if you put all the rafters up on one side it will push the ridge down and away from that side and you'll have to much weight to push it back up so work equally from both ends back toward center . Yes you'll be moving side to side and end to end but believe me it will work better that way.

#4:  It may be , OSB isn't very good stuff , so if you live in a very damp  place like PNW , or where a lot of wind driven rain will get at it , I'd recommend either LP plane , a grade of" good one side"  OSB or some Satin ply / AC plywood as it can be called in some areas.

#5:   Maybe , maybe not :-/ See #4.

#6:   That's your call.

#7:  The rake / barge / verge soffits as well or just the "flat" soffits?  

 G/L PEG
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .