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Hi Glenn,I have been reading Mike's book and have a few questions for you.1) Can a slope be too steep for this type of building, and what is too steep if the answer is yes? I think if you can possibly stand up on it you can do this. You can modify a bit running the water to the side then turn it to go down the hill by re-grading. Different levels also help stop extreme changes in elevation. My wife mentioned that the video's may help you also if you are seriously considering this. Mike likes the parts that are above ground to be mostly glass. Look at his ridge house as a bit more of an example of this type of building.2) Doesn't this method require a LOT of digging/excavation? I assume you dig out the uphill patio and the house area and then add the roof to the house at the same slope as the hill? (sorry, still a little confused with the first part of the book and have not gotten to the building part yet)The larger it is -the more digging - Mikes first place was quite small. For larger, a backhoe or Bobcat or both helps.3) You and Mike added on to the original building, did you add on to the sides of the house or did you dig down/back into the back side of the house? I expanded mostly to the sides and downhill but all directions are possible if you want to bad enough.4)I realy like the Clerestories floor plan shown in the bood, but on P.44 it shows flat foofs sloped slightly towards the house. Is this correct and if so, isn't that a possible water issue? That is an illustration problem I think- actually they slope down to the side - Mike always runs his water down hill and off on solid ground someway.5)Is the Ridge House cut into the hilltop or is it backfilled?I don't recall exactly, but Mike always had some backfilled around the parts that took runoff to the ground level - this provides earthquake and normal bracing6) Being in Minnesota and needing all the insulation that the earth can give, would either of the flat land designs work for this area? Seems that there may be too many windows and no protection to the north side. Your opinion?Building methods must be varied to fit the location -maybe most to the north underground with only a sunscoop -Hollywood wing etc. sticking out for light. A write up for a magazine I think it was mentioned that you could add insulation - I have used rigid foam board in some areas- to cut down on the amount of earth. With the extreme cold there in the winter, I think you would want to consider this. Mike is also recommending something like an EPDM -pond liner etc- over the structure rather than the plastic as a better roof material-expensive though.I am realy enjoying the $50 & up book, but I am finding that I do not know what some of the ideas Mike is suggesting using are. There are things like the different types of windows for example, that have only written explainations for and no drawings on how they should look or how to build. I would have liked the book to not only explain the building process but to show me more. As a woman wanting to build a house myself, it will obviously take a while to examine all the things that are missing from this book. I like this building technique a lot and would like to take advantage of it, but I find more technical info on other alternative styles and they seem easier to understand with having that info. Any suggestions? (have to save up for Mikes video)Things in the book are not always clear -or addressed sometimes - I learned a lot the hard way - 1 1/2" boards for 8' wall spans -etc. As Mike mentioned -his book mainly adresses how to get a safe structure underground - finish details are left up to the actual builder. Keep in mind that gravity pulls the water down and it spreads sideways as it goes down. Water cannot be routed over windows or doors and exposed windows need something above them to make the water go around and down -such as Hollywood wing etc. Nearer conventional building on things like that. Feel free to keep asking questions, Sharon. You are helping everybody.Thank you for you time and your help,Sharon