0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
I do plan to put bolted or welded angle iron up to help support full weight on those outside rim-joist and I can also (at a later date) add bracing at anytime.
Be aware that those 2x12 rim-joist on the sides are not going to support the whole house weight. ... All those tall metal piers will be cut off flush ....
I can add another 2x12 to all inner sides also
....when I do the outside sheathing, it'll come down to the bottom of the rim-joist and the whole thing will be one unit. Those charts you refer to may not account for the way I'm doing this?[/size
I'm putting 2x's down flat on the floor as a sub-floor....
Thanks to everyone who has concern about my build, you have made me rethink a few things and reassured me of what I was planning to do anyway.The main concern that many have had about my build is that the rim-joist and middle girder was 'hanging from' and not 'sitting on' my metal posts, that they are just a single 2x12 and not doubled, and that they are 'just' screwed in. All rim-joist and middle girder will be doubled with 2 2x12's. Also, my metal post have now been cut off flush and I'm using the extra 4x4 galvanized angle-iron to make brackets that will be attached to the metal posts and these will be adding to the strength of the 'hanging from' and 'sitting on'. Keep in mind that the screws that I used to 'hang' the 2x12 rim-joist and middle girder to the posts are TEKS Wood to Metal Fasteners. The particular ones that I've used are the 1/4-20 x 3" #3 Phillips head. These screws are made to go through 2x's into steel framing. I used 5 evenly spaced screws where every 2x met a steel post. These screws have a pull-out value of 1,803 lbs and a shear value of more than 2,820 lbs. Those screws are not going anywhere! If anything moved it would be the 2x12's. As far as my 2x12's, I got this wood from a house builder friend and it has been sitting and has done most of its moving and bowing. I used the best boards for the rims and middle girder.
Question: Some people have told me that when they build the walls, they don't cut out the window and door spots till after they have it all up because it's easier. Is that a waste of wood, is it easier, what would be the best way for me since I'm doing it by myself?
You have the choice of sheathing the walls either before or after you stand them up. There are pros and cons to both methods, one being easier to raise the lighter unsheathed wall and the other is much easier to apply the sheathing while the wall is on its side. Either way I believe the sheathing is best applied continuously and openings cut out later. I think it makes for a stronger wall and the waste is not much in the grand scheme of things, usually you can find homes for the the scraps in other areas.
As far as my question about the walls, what I actually wanted to know was if it is ok to nail all the wall joist to the top and bottom plate and then when all walls have been raised, then cut out the locations where windows and doors will be, then do cripple studs, king and jack studs, etc..
Page created in 0.175 seconds with 30 queries.