Multiple questions on 1 and 1/2 story

Started by pridemore1, January 07, 2013, 11:44:00 PM

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pridemore1

Can I use I joist for a complete 2nd floor.  No open area above living area.

pridemore1

Any photo's of full 2nd floor.  Seems like just extending the 2x6 that is set into the wall studs. 


MountainDon

A full upper floor can be done. 

There is another discussion on 1  1/2  going on. Well worth a read

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=12753.msg166205#msg166205
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

rick91351

Quote from: pridemore1 on January 08, 2013, 07:08:23 AM
Any photo's of full 2nd floor.  Seems like just extending the 2x6 that is set into the wall studs.

Basically that is it.  There are several threads here that cuss and discuss the 'basics and proper way' to join your 2X6's or 2X8's or 10's depending on the length of span and types of lumber being used.  And the dos and don'ts of a ledger board. 


There are also several threads that will guide you to span tables and such.
Lots of good stuff............... Lots of people will help you out......  Do not be shy in asking for help.  Tis a lot easier to lay it all out before you start than half way through and discover that ___________ is wrong.   



Proverbs 24:3-5 Through wisdom is an house builded; an by understanding it is established.  4 And by knowledge shall the chambers be filled with all precious and pleasant riches.  5 A wise man is strong; yea, a man of knowledge increaseth strength.

itpdk9

Hello, this is what I am planning to do on my build.  I am going to do a full "2nd floor" from the 1 1/2 story plans.  The problem that I have is I wanted to rough cut and exposed T&G flooring from the first floor looking up.  In my area I cannot get rough cut lumber in the diameter needed to span 20 feet.  I am trying to work around this now, I had considered just using I joists for the whole 2nd floor but I still wanted to keep it exposed on the first floor.  I am going to have to see how much more it would be to cover the I joist possibly with a pine 1 by whatever.  I think it is going to be expensive.  I just really didn't want to have to put support posts in the middle of the living area.  So not sure if this helps but it is on the same lines as your question. 


pridemore1

Was thinking about a ledger board full length then using I joist to span the 20ft.  Some laminate board around the stair opening only.  Got a price today on the 20ft I joist for main and loft floor. 

itpdk9

if you don't mind what was your price for the i joists?

pridemore1

around 29.80 each.  Think I found good info w/ 20x36 in central utah post.  That is just what im looking for.  Still want to see same look but w/ full i- joist loft.  Thnaks for all info so far.  Plan on ordering plans in spring and getting started.

pridemore1

Love the wood stove in the corner of the stairs.  Alot of people post good pictures of the same set-up.


Don_P

One thing most people don't think about in the floor joist to balloon framed wall detail is that  the connection should be made to tie the structure together. The joists should pass over a let in ledger and nail to the studs, a bunch. With I joists you need fill in that connection as well. If the roof above thrusts on the walls you want it tied together. You don't want the spread of the roof pulling the floor loose by nails in withdrawal.

rwanders

I used a 3.5x12x24' glulam as support for a 10x24 loft. It did require footing to post to glulam. I was able to bury the single post inside a partition wall on the first floor. Joists were 2x12x 10'; 16'' OC. 3/4 T&G on top made a rock solid loft floor. one end of joist was on 2X ledger and nailed to the wall studs. Other end is in simpson hangers on side of the glulam. A 4' wide catwalk runs from loft 14' to door to 2nd floor covered deck. Cat walk was 2x12x14' on 12''OC.  I do like to build with a little extra 'stout'; especially in framing. Costs little extra, but pays good dividends for rest of the construction plus a nice bonus; peace of mind.   
Rwanders lived in Southcentral Alaska since 1967
Now lives in St Augustine, Florida

pridemore1

Was wondering about insulation and weather proofing the exposed pipes and lines.

rick91351

Quote from: pridemore1 on January 23, 2013, 11:35:57 AM
Was wondering about insulation and weather proofing the exposed pipes and lines.

Depends what pipes and lines you are talking about and where they are located in the house.  Type of foundation?  I would guess post and pier?   Where the house is located?  Types of winters?   Alaska, Canada, Montana, Dakotas or the high line of states is a lot more critical than southern Nv that gets cold but not -0s.  If it were me and post and pier and a cold area I would build a chase with a door.  Heat tape the plumbing from just below the ground to the floor.  Then insulate the chase that with fiberglass bats.  Of course you would have to provide electrical for the heat tape.  I would try as best I could to run the water through an interior wall and depending on size of build and number of baths and sinks I would try my best to have a common water wall.  Bath opposite the kitchen.  Shortest runs and interior walls allow for less chance of freezing. 

If it is a cabin or retreat I would make it so I could drain and winterize it in a few minutes.  Shut off the water underground with an old timey stop and waste valve.  Drain the water heater and pressure tank if you have one.  Drain the house or blow out the line with a compressor.  Pour RV antifreeze in the traps and toilet and not worry about it until the next time we returned.  (Most likely forgot something there!)  So fill in the ____________           
Proverbs 24:3-5 Through wisdom is an house builded; an by understanding it is established.  4 And by knowledge shall the chambers be filled with all precious and pleasant riches.  5 A wise man is strong; yea, a man of knowledge increaseth strength.

UK4X4

whats the floor plan downstairs - can you encorporate a beam and some posts ?

My span is 26ft- 36 ft long - used a glue lam for looks

4x10 beams on 32-36 spacing - moved things arround for the stairs and 2x6 T&G

My plumbing from down to up goes inside a closet

Upstairs within walls and boxing in the bathroom at floor level- sure some creative solutions in some areas will be required - but it should be workable

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=9588.25

post 49


pridemore1

Thnxs and sorry.  More info was needed for that question.  Still thinking and planning for spring.  Small cabin/primary house for just me and the kids on occasion.  Pier and post foundation.  Still looking for easy to build and simple.  Thinking about 16x36 1 1/2 story or same in a 2 story.  Or even the 20x36 1 1/2 story.  Got quote from septic installer and also for going on city sewer w/ a pump to get up hill.  City said either way because I have to cross a 10" gas line and they couldnt make me connect.  Property has a drilled well also.  Only 56 ft but rated at 10gallon a minute by installer.  Report sheet said they couldnt pump it dry w/ their equipment. Put a hand pump in at 20ft and water is clear.  Waiting till spring to send a sample to the county for analysis. 

pridemore1

went to the property on tuesday and marked off for a cabin.  Started w/ 16x36 but then made it 20 x 36.  Still undecided on size.  Have been planning on graph paper and playing w/ layout. 

pridemore1

Do I need to use a ledger board for the loft area or can I use floor joist w/ an additional 2x6x8 under them like in 14x24 cabin help w/ pics post #53.  Would nail into stud, be like a jack stud I think. Thoughts needed.  Got a price on 16ft scissor trusses today from Home depot.  Plan on using 2x12x16 for the main and loft floor.

MountainDon

Quotean additional 2x6x8 under them like in 14x24 cabin help w/ pics post #53

That can work but it will mess up the width of the stud cavities and make installing batt insulation much more difficult.   The ledger notch can be cyt before the walls are erected. Place them on the floor deck and clamp the ones to be notched together tightly. Measure carefully. Then cut with a skilsaw being careful to NOT overcut the depth. Or if you have a hefty router with a long bit make guides and route it out. Nice and clean that way. Face nail the joists to the studs as well as having the joists rest on the ledger.

See how little sideways force the HD truss guys can design into the scissors truss. They can get that number quite low if they watch their design. There is often some horizontal force in a scissors truss but if they have all the data it should not be high.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

pridemore1

I'm still in the designing phase.  Still thinking 16 x36 but may add a 6x12 mudroom on the end.  Hope to be starting sometime in april.

John Raabe

If you want to use a jack stud support for the joist you might consider a 2x4 nailed to the 2x6. It has plenty of support and if you do blown in insulation such as cellulose or BIBS it will insulate the cavity much better.
None of us are as smart as all of us.


pridemore1

Back to the roof joist/truss that is in the 16ft wide plan.  Is it hard to build and can/should I build them before I start the walls so I can work on the flat deck.  Was looking at some of the other posts and it looked like a 2x6 doubled for insulation space.   Trying to decide on them vs a truss from HD.

pridemore1

Still planning, currently building a lean to of off a barn for a new chicken coop.  Question:  Thanking about a single story instead what would I use for a girder beam w/ 8ft between piers centers?