Long rim joists - Can I join shorter members?

[Drew]

Hi folks,

I'm planning my 24'x18' single storey ag building.  It will have a post and beam foundation.  My question relates to the rim joists (Perpendicular to the joists).  I have 24 feet to cover.  Can I cover that distance in shorter members (Say three 2"x6"x8' or two 2"x6"x12') and join them together?  If so, what is the proper method for joining?  Should I use Simpson tie plates or something else?

ION, the rains are finally coming to Northern California.  It just gives me more time to go over my plans.  Yep.  That's it.   

Thanks!

Drew

[Robert_Flowers]

Drew  you can splice the rim joist just butt them end to end and nail a block on the inside between the joist unless your building code says so you don't need any tie plates.

Robert

[Drew]

Much obliged, Robert.  Two twelves (or whatever it takes to get the splice between the joists) are much easier to buy/drive/walk into the site than the twenty-fours!

Drew

[PEG688]

 Splices normally fall , or should  be cut to fall centered on layout . Rim joist , ridge boards , top and bottom wall plates etc , all should be cut so joints land centered on normal lay out  corresponding ,( IE Joist , rafters , studs , )members. Top , top plates should be staggered 4 ' from the sub top plate splices.

[Drew]

Thanks PEG.

"Centered on layout" - Does that mean that a 24' splice should happen at 12'?  Does that mean that I would not want to make 2 splices at 8' and 16'?  I'm not sure exactly what you mean and could use a little more context.

Drew

[John_M]

I believe he means that the rim joist should ideally be spliced on the center of one of the floor joists.  Same thing for a top plate, etc.

[MountainDon]

Exactly so

[Drew]

Excellent!  Thanks!  I was set in my mind to put the splice between the joists. 

[PEG688]

 Yup John's got it right.

Typically I lay down my plate stock , and/or ridge boards ,and cut them so a stud or rafter layout falls dead center then  one stud or rafter catches the plates or ridge .


I then go back and layout my window  & door RO's.

Then I do the partition layout .

Finally I do the stud layout last as some studs will be omitted , or replaced by door and window framing members , king studs , trimmers , cripples , partition backers .

I find that to be the cleanest way to layout , you'll do less erasing , remarking , etc . That way the plates are clearly marked so it lessens the confusion factor when the " real" framing starts.

  For rim joist I generally do my lay out on the PT sill plate then transfer the lines onto the box sill / rim joist . So I square up the foundation snap lines , bore for bolts , notch for straps etc , then  install PT plates.

Once the plates are down I first go mark Center Line ( C/L ) of all toilets and shower drains , with "I" joist having to cut a joist is a PITA so if you layout where your down going plumbing will be you can off set  and/  or add a joist   off lay out but more importantly not a joist centered under a toilet or tub / shower waste pipe.

Then I do layout , normal 16 " , 19.2 , or 24" OC layout , Again a nice clean easy to read , hint less likely to be screwed up  assembly.

On roofs skylights can be pre- layed out over sinks , stair wells and the like , so the rafters can be adjusted slightly to get the skylight where it should be and NOT 3 " off center / off to the side of a sink or stairwell.   


Hope that makes sense to you, I know I use a lot of trade terms but you'll need to know those to build with so look them up if you need to .

G/L PEG

[benevolance]

Great tip on avoiding the floor joists with the drain pipes peg... I never thought of it that way...I just moved the drain pipe and the sink/toilet in the bathroom... on a small bathroom there is not really room for that so like I said it is a great tip