10' x 10' back yard office

MountainDon · May 16, 2010, 05:50:51 PM

Sheet foam is great stuff. BS has a very cold design (Alaska) that uses 4 layers of 2 inch foam, all applied to the exterior. No stud stuffing at all.

soomb · May 16, 2010, 06:26:10 PM

(message removed)

May 16, 2010, 06:34:28 PM

Well it was 97 degrees out today and working in the dirt with long pants and long shirt made it slow going and I did not get as far as I would have liked, but I got blocking placed and the wire mesh mostly in.

Snapped a chalk line at the 5' mark and alternated the blocking down the chalk line. I was pleased that there was very little push/pull to get them in place. Only one blocking had a larger gap than I would like, but it may have been the accuracey of the cut, as I was still 10" on the chalk line after all blocks were placed.

Once I have the 2 outside rafter sections meshed, I will install 6" bat insulation from above, then plywood T& G with Liquid Nails and either nails or screws. Thoughts on both? (nails & screws)

I used 1/2" staples to install the wire, placing a staple each 8-12", but I think I will take some scrap 1x2 and run strips on the underside of the rafters and screw that into place.

MountainDon · May 16, 2010, 07:06:14 PM

Quote from: soomb on May 16, 2010, 06:26:10 PM
Quote from: MountainDon on May 16, 2010, 05:50:51 PM
Sheet foam is great stuff. BS has a very cold design (Alaska) that uses 4 layers of 2 inch foam, all applied to the exterior. No stud stuffing at all.

BS?

BS ( as I used it) = Building Science.

I was feeling really lazy. I have a so far small infection in my face.

Talked to Dr. at noon and have anti-biotic already . I'll see him tomorrow. Crap!

soomb · May 17, 2010, 11:59:09 PM

once mesh is finished and floor is insulated, my question is: I plan on using 3/4" TG plywood and Liquid Nails, I am not sure of nails or screws and the fixation, thoughts?

May 18, 2010, 09:06:15 AM

For my money, nails only if they are spiral or ring shank (known as deformed shank), or hot dipped galvanized. (the rough zinc helps hold them in place), or deck screws.

Just for info, if there was any PT wood in contact with the fasteners, they must be suitable for PT wood.

soomb · May 18, 2010, 09:22:27 AM

Thanks Don, I think it may come down to screws or galvanized, as I have a decent supply of both already. Plus I hope that, if I keep an even pattern, it will look interesting once the plywood is finished as my interior floor.

soomb · May 23, 2010, 02:15:43 PM

Well, I will post the photo of me doing my jig in just a few minutes. But first, the update.
I fastened Workman's Cloth under the entire structure and then insulated from above, using faced 6" insulation. Once that was complete I set up guides to hold my 3/4" TG Plywood in place, since I am working alone (No pics, but vertical boards fastened to the outside of the joists/rim). I used Liquid Nails on every surface. I slide the TG into place and used 2" Galvanized deck screws. For the over kill I also used Galvanized ring shank nails in between the screws. A few mistakes/learning opportunities along the way. Mostly, I need to stop and think before just plowing along b/c the pace is going quickly.

It is at the fast pace that I screw up.

My question for the next phase: Sheathing the walls... What to use?

I plan on doing the solid rear wall (low side of the shed) first. Walls will be 2x4 construction. I would like to have the sheathing overhang the bottom of the wall enough to fasten directly to the rim joist at the start, once tipped up.

As always, ANY and ALL input welcomed.

soomb · May 23, 2010, 02:24:41 PM

May 23, 2010, 03:30:05 PM

Nice work.

soomb · May 23, 2010, 03:42:03 PM

thanks Scott. I learned quite a bit from several posts, yours being one of them. Not sure I will get to rain screen this little office but I would like too

MushCreek · May 23, 2010, 04:19:44 PM

Quote from: soomb on May 23, 2010, 02:24:41 PM

The obvious choice for sheathing on a building that small would be T1-11, unless you plan to sheath, vapor barrier, and put a siding on. In that case, OSB is (well, used to be) the cheapest way to go. That stuff went up almost 300% around here! I noticed today it went down.... a little.

Being as you want to use it as an office, it might be worth your while to use a full wall system, like a house. That mostly depends upon budget.

soomb · May 23, 2010, 07:12:42 PM

No pic yet (letting it dry/soak-in further), but I applied two coats of Behr Semi-Transparent stain to the plywood TG decking. The color choosen was "Coffee" apropos for an office. I am waiting to see how it dries, as the second coat got away from the semi-transparent and a bit more solid. I will post pics no matter what, just want to see if the wood grain shows thru.

soomb · May 23, 2010, 07:20:50 PM

The obvious choice for sheathing on a building that small would be T1-11, unless you plan to sheath, vapor barrier, and put a siding on. In that case, OSB is (well, used to be) the cheapest way to go. That stuff went up almost 300% around here! I noticed today it went down.... a little.

Being as you want to use it as an office, it might be worth your while to use a full wall system, like a house. That mostly depends upon budget.
[/quote]

Jay, I think I will go with a full wall system. On this, my first small project, I want to have some of the experience for the eventual cabin build, so I think full wall will be the way to go. Don't quote me on that yet, but leaning that way. I want to experiment with siding as well, so not sure of rain screen, metal, board and batten, so need to do some head scratching.

C

May 24, 2010, 11:05:45 PM

My question for the next phase: Sheathing the walls... What to use? I think OSB, how thick? Anything I am missing?
I plan on doing the solid rear wall (low side of the shed) first. Walls will be 2x4 construction. I would like to have the sheathing overhang the bottom of the wall enough to fasten directly to the rim joist at the start, once tipped up.

As always, ANY and ALL input welcomed.

The Behr came out a little less transparent but here is the application pic..

soomb · May 26, 2010, 03:40:59 PM

I prepped the 1st wall (rear wall, lower side of the slight shed roof) on the deck of the office. I used true stud cut 2x4 from HD. Everything is glued and screwed to the sole and top plate. After a quick check of a few post here, I tipped it up. Maybe it is me, but an 8' wall seems VERY tall, but I think that is the height from the ground and perspective. My wife assures me, going with a lower rear ceiling height will only make me (6'5") feel like I am in a Hobit office.

I had attached guides to the rim and floor joists, as well snapped a chalk line on the deck at 3 1/2". I did not put sheathing on prior to tipping up because I did not know what to expect, so I went light. The sole plate was prepped with Liquid Nails, and screws we pre-started in each wall bay. Once I tipped the wall up, I hustled to both sides to attach the braces to the joists. I then took each and went for level (clamped the level to the studs to free hands). Once secured, I went back and added nails to each bay to penetrate the plate, 3/4" TG, and into the rim. I hope I did it right, or at least over did it.

ScottA · May 26, 2010, 06:58:11 PM

Be sure to rack the wall plumb and brace or sheath it before moving too far along. How are you joining your corners? I see no 2nd stud at the corner.

rick91351 · May 26, 2010, 07:27:21 PM

You might want to review this short video. It explains about corners and a good way to frame them and why - just a suggestion and a style I like.

http://www.hgtvpro.com/hpro/pac_ctnt/text/0,2595,HPRO_20196_55073,00.html?c=481&videoid=66884

soomb · May 26, 2010, 07:50:41 PM

Quote from: ScottA on May 26, 2010, 06:58:11 PM
Be sure to rack the wall plumb and brace or sheath it before moving too far along. How are you joining your corners? I see no 2nd stud at the corner.

Scott, Thanks I will rack the wall plumb and then plan on 1/2 OSB sheathing. I did not know how to join my corners until today, was doing some reading as I went along, so I have extra studs ready to go in to make a 3 stud corner.

Thanks for pointing that out.

soomb · May 26, 2010, 07:51:36 PM

Quote from: rick91351 on May 26, 2010, 07:27:21 PM
You might want to review this short video. It explains about corners and a good way to frame them and why - just a suggestion and a style I like.

http://www.hgtvpro.com/hpro/pac_ctnt/text/0,2595,HPRO_20196_55073,00.html?c=481&videoid=66884

Rick,

Thanks! the 3 stud corner it will be. It pays to go slow and ask a lot of questions

May 29, 2010, 12:34:58 AM

Looking great soomb.
I am in the Valley as well and dreaming of something up North...

Looking forward to watching your progress.
Looks great so far.

MountainDon · May 31, 2010, 05:43:37 PM

I don't know if this is too late, but sheathing can be had in 4 x 9 foot sheets if you look in the right places; real lumber yards. Using that you can have the sheathing overlap the joists/rims.

soomb · May 31, 2010, 07:27:45 PM

My plan was OSB laid horizontal and having the 8" mark fall OC of a stud. I have not looked into going vertical with OSB, but I have not committed to more than a few sheets at this time. Is there any appreciable difference to strength on vertical vs. horizontal?

Front wall up today, side walls later this week. (pics coming)

MountainDon · May 31, 2010, 08:19:43 PM

The only "problem" a person might run into with horizontal sheathing is that code may specify that all edges of a panel must be nailed. If the the sheets are horizontal that means blocking may have to be installed to nail to.

I like the idea of the vertical sheets lapping over the joists/rim joists, but that may be just me.

soomb · June 01, 2010, 09:00:53 AM

Quote from: MountainDon on May 31, 2010, 08:19:43 PM
The only "problem" a person might run into with horizontal sheathing is that code may specify that all edges of a panel must be nailed. If the the sheets are horizontal that means blocking may have to be installed to nail to.

I like the idea of the vertical sheets lapping over the joists/rim joists, but that may be just me.

I may still go with horizontal, but I will have the sheets start at the bottom of the rim/joist to tie it all in. My thoughts were to have full boards top and bottom and rip boards to fill the middle.